How to Make a Strop | Paul Sellers 

For anyone wondering: The polishing compound is usually sold under the name “jeweler’s rouge”. It most commonly comes in waxy, crayon like blocks or paste. Amazon has a big selection. For honing the edge of blades green, yellow, and white are commonly used. Green is fine, light yellow is very fine, and white is ultra fine. If blocks are the only thing available and you’re having trouble getting it on the strop; shave the block and mix the shavings with small amount of mineral oil. After a soak and some mixing, you should get a paste consistency that’ll adhere to the strop better. Happy sharpening!

Refreshing to see a channel still doing real woodwork and workshop projects Paul. All too many start off well then as they gain sponsorship end up being nothing more than commercials for the likes of Festool ,Axeminster ect . Well done for keeping it real .

That's a great tip for using the underside of the strop. I would've never thought to charge the exposed wood as a flat-side polishing surface.

i love seeing guys still using the vintage cordless saws

Really like the new workshop. The sound and lighting is great. Paul and Co, you have all done a wonderful job. Looking forward to watching and continue to learn real woodworking. Thank you

Excellent explanation of both how to make it and how to use it. The idea of using the solid wood bottom of the pad for polishing the bottom is excellent! Side note : you didn’t mention it, but you use the raw, untanned side of the leather piece, which has a velvety touch and retains compound better.

Thank you. You are a genius. Today I made one. Your a great teacher. It made me feel good to actually make something that works. Love your videos.❤

My man Paul, always making and doing the best with a minimum of fuss and with his own flair - you changed my way of thinking about tools, work and my outlook on life even! Thanks for posting this and all you do to make us all more self sufficient people!!

Another brilliant video, demonstrating the frugality of Mr. Sellers. Love it.

SIMPLICITY at it's easiest another great tip PAUL!!!!!

"I've used this for 50years...." sold.

Lucid, intelligent advice. Great product for little money. This lad knows his business.

Nicely done. Thanks again, Paul, for a genius tip. The underside charged with compound for the back of the chisel is a new tool in my arsenal now.

I made one after watching a previous video you did and it's been absolutely brilliant.. so useful to have for sharpening 👍

I recently made a strop after seeing you use them in other videos. What a difference they make on edges! I enjoyed the tip about using the back to polish the flat of the blade. Thanks very much.

As usual: simplicity and usefullnes. Thanks😊

I have been using MDF with compound for polishing, does a great job.

Great as usual! Simple, direct, minimal fluff, right - on usefulness!!

When I first started working with hand tools I always spent my money on tools and never had any leather laying around, so I just used a piece of maple that I smoothed with my #4 and used harbor freight buffing compound directly on the wood. Now I have leather but I swear it doesn’t do that much of a better job!

Very good! That’s how I do it. Thanks for posting.

I've never used a strop before so this was interesting to me. One question, on the leather... if you have a smooth side and a rough side which side should be facing up? Thanks for the great content.

I’ve been waiting for this video for Year’s!! Thank you so very much Mr. Sellers!

Very simple to make never thought of using double sided tape thanks again Paul. The new premises are looking great

Going to make one now, I've all ways just used a thick piece of loose leather on the bench top but it's time to retire it and make a new one like yours. Thanks for sharing Paul

Great to see you in the new shop!

Great video! I bought a home made one at a barn sale yesterday. I will check the condition of the leather and see if it needs to be replaced. Thanks again.

My wife has so many bags now I’ve found a use for them 😉😂

Right sharp for an old fellow. Thanks again, sir.

Your ideas are amazing - thanks a lot for this!

Not my usual method, but highly functional, and equally usable.

Once more, excellent stuff! Using the underside for removing the final bur is a great tip! Thank you!

Perfect, plus some tips on using it. Love how used the under side 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

I like to use autosol metal polish on my strop too. Works very fast

Dumb question... Which side of the leather do you want to actually use for the strop? Which side is stuck to the base?

Love it! Didn't use compound or wood. Going to make tomorrow and order some compound.

This man deserves a Knighthood for services to Carpentry👏👍

Nice to see a craftsman actually making something with hand tools, rather than using a whole workshop full of table saws, belt sanders etc

Paul thanks for all that you do. Saw a purse at the thrift store the other day. Maybe I'll get some looks from the ladies there when I ask if it matches my outfit.

When excellence meets simplicity.

Awesome Thanks Paul

Brilliant! I never thought of using and old jacket.

Wow, you have sharp tools!

Always learn something

Haha, Sellers Tape! Great Tips!

Always a great video from Mr. Sellers

Hurrah and thank-you. Nice to be with you again. Do you glue the shiny side of the leather down, rougher side up?

It's hard to see in the video. Do you use the rough side or smooth side of leather to polish?

I did one from an old handbag right before the woodworking masterclasses site started (2012?). Remember looking really long to make sure it was a) real leather b) right side of leather (other side was "polished") up.

thanks from California

Hi, which way up does the leather go?

Nice minimal supplies method. Not everyone has 10oz horse butt and barge cement lying around!

This is great. It would be better if you would be more specific on what type of leather and which side of it should be exposed in the block. Thank you!

A piece of plain wood or mdf charged with compound works just as well for me. If you want a softer feel, cut up your old denim jeans. They'll last you for many years (unless you wear 'skinny jeans,' in which case you should be watching Matt Estlea's channel!). Can't find dedicated polishing compound where I am, so have to use car paint cutting paste, which works fine - shaving sharp and ready to gouge.

Good skills Paul. Loving your work.

Paul, you are like the English Norm Abram. I like the fact you measure in English too. Love your vids. It would be great if you added something like Norm' s iconic safety glasses tip to the beginning of your vids too.

Lovely. Thank you.

Thanks for great tip Paul!

Excellent tip! And economical.

Anyone curious about finding leather, Hobby Lobby sells packets of about 3 squared off pieces for $2.99 a packet. There were about a half dozen packets on the hook today. Each seems to have at least one piece that measures about 6"x9". Just find a piece that has the texture you want. I've never had luck at Michael's. If you don't have a scrap board around, I got a piece of .75x3.5"x4' at Home Depot for about $2.30.

Very nice, as always, sir. Thank you.

Thank you Paul.

Thanks Paul. I was think of making one.

Sellers-tape, splendid stuff. 🤣

The sound of a shop plane is music to my ears.

Thanks for the tip on making my strops. Question; the leather I have has and smooth finished side and a rough side, can either side be used or is there a preference? I've noticed some suppliers sell two-sided strops with both sides, is there a reason for this? Thank you for your channel.

Pauls scrap plywood board is huge. I need more scrap.

Maybe everyone knows the answer, but, which side of the leather do you have uppermost?

I suggest, one side suede and one side smooth - and glue them both (not tape).

I glued the leather on simply with wood glue. The hair side of the leather needs to be sanded if it's shiny. I glued leather on both sides, one side bark and one side shiny.

Awesome much appreciated

Bah. I think when I was starting out (It's been a while, can't recall for sure)... I was trying to do the FLAT side of the chisel on my leather, too. Probably part of what was making my sharpening seem to take too long back then. I never really thought about it, but I was obviously causing a bit of rounding at the cutting edge, where it should have been kept perfectly flat. I also need to choose a better grade of plywood than what I had, so this buffing compound on the bare wood idea will work properly.

Made it a few months ago, I used spray glue.

Need some o that tape, me. Was hoping you provided a link. But question: d'ye recondition the leathar if/when too much old compound buids up on't. Or just attach a new strip.

Do you youse the rough side up or the fine side up?

Now I understand why barbers use a strop. Seen it done, but never really knew why.

Fascinating that of all 9 jillion videos on how to make a strop... not one mention which side to use.

Does the double sided tape work as good as glue??? Does it provide a secure hold to the leather?

good info paul. thanks

Not sure why tape, I use glue (us. spray adhesive or contact adhesive), perhaps less messy? Good tip about using the hard back for polishing the back(/removing the burr?); that would improve stropping efficiency and effectiveness in some cases. Some recommend not using leather at all (esp. for flat bevel Swedish carving tools), to keep the bevel as flat as pos. To keep the strop clean, some recommend making a box for your strop but I make mine with handles and place them in a big jar on my bench, like a bunch of flowers in a vase! :D

Thanks for making woodworking more easy and accessible to every beginner like me. I have two questions if I may ask: Is that green polishing compound made by Silverline? I notice you use a soft suede: what's the pros and cons of using that, instead of a more hard leather like shell cordovan (AKA horse butt leather, that everyone suggests to use for stropping)?

Rough side or skin side of the leather?

I got a strop i ended up buying, which has a smooth side and a rougher hide side of it. Whats the difference, and how do i strap it down to wood?

would have been nice to tell us what type of leather and the weight.

Which side of the leather up?

thanks Paul, where do you get your leather? How thick is the one you use please?

Can I use something else instead of leather? I have seen people strop on the MDF directly, can that work?

What side of the leather is face up ? you never said..

I don't understand the tape used and them taken off. What is it?

I heard you can even use denim from an old Jean instead of leather is that true what else can you use

Do you need the compound to remove the brr?

Great video, congratulations and one question! What do you think about putting together the sharpening stones and the strobe in a single board? Thanks and regards from Gran Canaria Island!

Rough side of the leather is up, right?

I suppose you could also use spray-on contact adhesive instead of tape. Just saying.

Is this a remake of the one you did before?

The main reason I watched this video was to see how to deal with edge rolling because the leather is soft and wraps around the edge. I had not thought about doing the back face on a plane and flat wood surface. Thanks. ((Note: Since I last watched this (and I do when I am making new strops) I have been putting drum head leather on the back of them. It is good and hard and holds the compound well. After mounting, I lightly sand with 320 grit to even the surface and give it a little more tooth for the compound. Seems to be working well so far. Also, purse leather works well as it is usually thinner and does not roll of hump.))

do you use the shiny side or the flesh side? (hairy side)

Hi Paul. Is there any sort of maintenance needed? I find it becomes slippery after some time. Could you explain how to clean up the clog?

anyone know the brand or the name of the knife he is using looks great

What is the replacement for Compound?

I tried using a stop like this but all the buffing compounds I tried barely attach to the strop, they are so hard. Seems to be made for polishing wheels on machines. How can I see the difference between these compounds? Pauls seem to load very easily to the strop