I’m obsessed with doing this. I skate at this church across from my house on most nights and I’ve absolutely converted all of the good curbs and ledges there. And I take numerous rails and whatnot up there it’s like my private skatepark and I love it so much.
I waxed the ledge on our church building, and a week later, they put a rail out for me, and they love being me skate every wendsday, and Sunday after and before church
Hey Leon, I'm Michael from Johnsons maintenance services and I've been asked to be a part of creating a memorial bench seats that are scatter friendly as well as a seat. Watching your patch video has me thinking that the concept that is drawn up wont work cos the front of the seat will be stonework and not flat or smooth. Any suggestions on what might work still using the stone cladding ? I'm in Perth Western Australia and the seats are on the beach front.
Hey Michael, Most concrete ledges are built with a slight bevel on the angle instead of it being a straight 45 degree angle. This makes it more durable for skating since it isn't a sharp edge you're bashing into. Hopefully that helps but I have no idea exactly what materials would be best for this
i didn't have a rub brick so i used a small paver from the garden, seemed to work ok, it was newer curb i was just basically trying to get rid of the brushed texture they finished it with. still gotta go back and clear coat and wax. let you know how it goes
I've used this technique on curbs up here in Maine, and that's about as crusty as it gets with all the salt and snow and ice and such. For extra crust, a cordless angle grinder with a masonry wheel is key. And wet the concrete with water to keep the dust down.
Trucks metal under spray/laquer/paint makes that grind better. Better and cheaper use a big@ss lead sinker it also locks out the dust from where you spray, fills the tiny holes in the cement, hardens the surface while making it pure butter (Lead >wax). Full process is rub brick, rub your trucks / or lead sinker to curb then automotive clear coat (lasts best) or any cheap laquer at least 2 times, then wax. If filling in holes spend the extra time and effort to do them fully not just from a skater perspective. As done here water / grit / organic material / smell collects and it won't seem welcoming to sit on for anyone. If once you finish a place IF it is better for majority users (lunch time crowds) and looks primo THEN building managers, residents, local workers etc will recognise and let you do your good works in peace sometimes even bring you water on a hot day. Like the camera guys fixing / making spots is the work of gods and some yet to be spotted goddesses!
Yeah that’s a tricky one man! If you try and run brick a ledge that is already waved then it won’t work, the rub brick will just be sliding along the wax. You’ll have to use some sort of paint scraper to get the wax off and then rub brick it down once it’s raw concrete again 👌🏽
@@LeonPaxton yeah i think ima bring a scraper, some prypo alchohol, and then a blow torch to evaporate it. Then rub brick it. Then clear coat the wax. This ledge is worth it. Just wish that skaters that waxed it saw your video first
Haha true, some people think that all you need to do is wax but rub brick and lacquer is always the first step! It makes the ledge grind and slide way more consistently too 🙌🏼
Sup guys just wanted to add in case you guys didn’t know but the grits density is measured by the lower the number so in this case the 25 is more expensive because it’s harder and will last longer than a 60 because that’s a big space between the two hope this helps good luck !
Nah dude, that would just be a waste! You could do that but the clear coat will be on top of the wax, not the cement so it would come off super easy. It's better to clear coat raw cement so it sets in better and creates a slippery surface on top of the cement and then you can put wax on top of that 👌🏼
