How to Make Awesome Scatter Terrain FAST! 

Awesome 🤘

The XPS supply site doesn't explain it - what is the big difference between 25 and 60 PSI foam? Would the 25PSI for example hold detail drawn with mechanical pencil (e.g bricks) similar to how the German green foam does?

The faq explains the difference. Higher psi = holds crisper details. The 60 psi is similar to German Styrodur, 25 psi is not as good as Styrodur but still better than Foamular.

Very cool!

Thanks!

This guy! Canadian hero...

I simplified it even more, just throw TP into a blender, no need to do all the wetting and drying and shit, its probably not AS good but i bet its better then 99% of the way there... Work out how much your blender can do (mine does 4 squares at a time in about 10 seconds) and then just chunk in a big amount of plaster, i did about 4 rolls of TP with 5 pounds of plaster, its a full 5L ikea samla container in like 20 minutes for like 5 bucks in material costs

@@JWbrasser Very similar to what the dude did in the video i mentioned, but with no tools and therefore much smaller quantities, rip toilet paper a bit apart with your hands, mix the plaster with water, then mix the paper with the wet plaster. Done. It's like you say not as good as store brand stuff with the whole process, but for small quick stuff "on the go"? It works good enough. Of course the dude explains it *FAR* better than me and actually demonstrates it, then on the other video he actually compares that with the two store-bought compounds. Your way with the blender should be nicer even :)

Salt and hot water make it cure faster. Maybe a bit too fast with large batches actually.

My local library has a 3d printer, maybe check and see if you have one near you that does.

A better approach anyway. 3D printing is a great hobby tool, but so many crafting videos boil down to "and then I printed the really cool parts of this build". Some of the best builds I've seen on this channel were just with stuff from Dollarama.

That's the best dad comment ever. Imma have to keep and use that.

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial 😆

Me too!

How about pickle jar lids? Also metal, no sharp edges. I am just not sure of the measurements.

@@MonkeyJedi99 the edges are kind of thick, aren't they?

Me too! Love to see you put together a board ☺️

Dooooooo it

Any chance you would do a video on symbiotic fleshy terrain almost drawing inspiration from them themes or the likes of the alien franchise or such where the structures and natural world is being assimilated into the xenos gribbleness? Much appreciated 🤟

I did……this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nnrF8h30AlU.html

This is a wonderful idea! Eliminates waste anxiety.

Acrylic!!!! You add water!

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial perfect and thanks. Dealt with resins before where the type of pigment can be VERY important.

?

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Nevermind, I'm over thinking things as per usual LMAO

Actually there is a distinction. The rule probably describes the maximum range to either the edge of the new terrain piece, or to its center. Center measurement would be slightly more definite, but fiddly to make sure the terrain piece center actually lands on the chosen target center. Or if the range is to the edge, any placement that the player chose would be "legal" regardless of where on the circle of the terrain edge he chose to align with the target spot. BUT if you had square terrain pieces, the player could choose from aligning the piece to his target spot on the edge of the piece, or a corner. With a diagonal alignment, the "reach" of the terrain is slightly farther than if the player aligned his target with the middle of a side of the square. To make the problem clearer, imagine that the terrain piece is a rectangle 1" x 12", so the player could affect someone very far from the end of his spell range. It's a small distinction but that's what I was thinking when I read Dig's comment.

Watch my video about making/using pigment powder. Personally applying the powder is my final step.

Some putty filler should be perfect for that. After you join your sides together and are done working on it, apply some putty (like Bondo or something) on it and then sand it down smooth.

If it stone pattern bring the pattern over the edges and use a foil ball it will help hide the seams

You could cut in vertical lines to make it look like it's made of stone, a la the mage's tower on this channel. Then the seam doesn't need to be hidden, because it's the line between two courses of stone.

Integrate the seam into your design, make the seams vertical, also do a rough cut, join together, then do a final size cut the seam will disappear without even trying. It all depends on your design and whatever you do save your cut offs, you will find them very useful as rubble for the smallest pieces, and as detail & filler pieces.

you could also just use a 1cm strip of paper or thin cardboard or even strips of foamcore .

It’s an older Loot model. Might be able to get it on myminifactofy.

Check out RP Archive for those sorts of builds. Everything he does is absurdly modular and standardized with magnets, accessories, and meticulous detailing.

@@ninjapancake9 i love rp archive! I watch all these nerds haha.. gonna make my own channel too this summer, keep your eyes peeled! teh game about to be changed

Boylei Hobby Time is currently doing some weird west / SF stuff. While it's not Cowboy Necromunda, he's got some good stuff.

Yes!

That’s when the backing campaign will be. Rules in pdf will be delivered a few months after, and a few more for physical book.

Only continental USA unfortunately

@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial ok thanks for the reply. Here's hoping that changes or we can get an equivalent on this side.

Smear on goop 😄

Nope

I personally throw a clear dull coat over everything, which better attaches everything. Powder is fine, but if you're relying on the clear coat to secure structural or decorative elements, you're going to have stuff fall off. So it's really more just to prevent things from affecting the paint job.

You can buy lego swords in bulk from bricklink or other fan sites for dirt cheap, that's how i get a lot of fun little pieces for detailing scratcbuilt models and terrain.

@@beanjavert online was the first places I looked. They are either selling too high for so little or the items they're selling are too plain. Like you know how a Lego pirate swords look. Very plain an no details. Why would I want to buy something like that in bulk when I want variety and unique looks.

Your terrain bits can be lower-detail than miniatures. But I understand not wanting to use legos for various reasons. I think what the grognard would say is you end up buying so many kits that have sprues and leftover greeblies that you're gonna naturally have a huge bits box. I don't think that's legitimate unless you're spending all your dough on the hobby. 3D printing bits sounds great, but only if you have a 3d printer! TheHerrDark above suggested, if you pour resin, since you always have extra left over and it gets wasted anyway, pour it into silicone molds of greeblies. This only works for you if you play with poured resin. And of course you play with silicone mold-making, where you can make molds of whatever you like and use them for dozens of castings before they degrade. You can spot and save greeblies from what you might otherwise throw away. Save anything that's a circle: drink bottle lids and rings, sometimes even drink bottles themselves because you can cut off the bottom, nice shapes from product packaging, office supplies, the spools that stuff comes on. Really just take a look at anything you would throw away and if it can be used in crafting, clean it and keep it. Hit the thrift store. Look at everything with an eye for whether you can tear it apart and use the bits; you're not going to find a huge sack of greeblies, so you'll need to get inventive. If you are crafting on an extreme budget, I would personally use styrofoam castoffs from things like electronics packaging instead of the nice XPS foam you buy, cardboard and cereal box cardstock, sawdust, sand, small stones, fresh landscaping bark. These should all be free. You'll have to pay for bulk white school glue, a small container of non-clumping cat litter, cans of hardware store paint (people often want to get rid of half-used paint cans), and either joint compound or dry plaster. Your tools are a box cutter, scissors, a set of paintbrushes from the dollar store, a ruler, an exhausted ballpoint pen, some sandpaper or a sanding block, and some small jars to mix paint and clean brushes in. You'd be surprised what you can get away with using your time and effort instead of money. When makers spend more money on tools or materials, it makes their job way easier and the end product looks better. But it can be done on a shoestring.

There are quite a few options, all the same. Pick the best price for you amzn.to/3bWHyqQ

I know. It’s an issue with tarriffs unfortunately. Hopefully it takes off enough to justify jumping through the hoops and costs needed to ship to here.

Just a random dust mask off amazon