How To Make CARBON FIBER Fin Blades 

Hi! What went wrong with vacuum? Just wondering as this will be my next project.

@@IlyaYarshou That’s my first project i’m forgot to apply the coating and it stuck to the glass surface😢. you should make a logo on the fins I think it's pretty cool. I will follow your new project.

Hi! That was a bit tricky task. Rubber T-rails are not really sliding in the rubber footpocket. Not sure if that was the best idea but the regular olive oil on both footpocket and the t-rail helped. Anyway that was not easy.

Hi. I learned this from @ajhartmanaero. For the vacuum bagging I would suggest you to cut the material (all layers) and check the weight of it. After that multiply the weight to 0.75 and you will get the amount of the mixed resin. So if the carbon weight will be for example 250gr*0.75=187.5rg of mixed resin. Now look your epoxy is 100:25=4:1. So now 187.5gr/1.25=150gr of epoxy. 150gr of epoxy+37.5gr of hardener. = 187.5gr of mix. You need to take attention to the That is what I used so I hope that will be helpful for you.

Also, You can use this formula: Fabric weight *Surface area(in meters)*number of plies. Don't forget to add some grams for tubes.

Hi! Nope, all was done at about room temperature. I used this blades for 3 months and the only problem I have noticed was the wrong glue I used for the rubber t-rails.

Hi! For me this layers quantity was perfect. It was even a bit softer than Leaderfins medium carbon fin blades. You can use 160gr carbon instead of 200gr (to make it softer/thiner) once you think it can be uncomfortable for you.

@@IlyaYarshou ive got 200gsm carbon, any last comments on sheet design, been lookinggg at diagonal corner strips or a. Triangle inner layer for a bit of subtle performance. thanks mate appreciate it

Hi! Look, I had the same issue with ordering West System epoxy. The price was very high (around 60euro for 1l of epoxy with hardener) +delivery+custom tax. My experience of work with basic cheap epoxies told me that it is just not worth it. I used Royalresin clear epoxy (15 euro for 1l canister) and quite happy about it. Will be using it also for vacuum infusion in the next video doing carbon fin blades for my wife’s fins.

@@IlyaYarshou thanks for the information I am very grateful, I will look forward to the infusion video: I think I'm going to wait for the infusion video to make mine

@@IlyaYarshou What advantage is there in doing it by infusion?

Mostly it is about product quality. The main problem I had doing manual resining was air bubbles on the gloss surface (sometimes very big ones). It was not a problem for me as I was doing it for myself but you always want a perfect product, right? :)

@@IlyaYarshou I understand clearly. quality is very important Thank you very much for answering and clearing my doubts👍

160-200gr. Mine was 200gr.

@@IlyaYarshou Большое спасибо.

No binder was needed. You just put one sheet to another. The resin itself is glueing it up.

@@IlyaYarshou I see each layer overlap, you have to apply an adhesive layer. What substance is it?

Look, I pore resin manually on each layer which make the carbon/fiberglass stick to each other and it does not move once I place another layer.

@@IlyaYarshou What is the binder in the white cup you used to apply each layer?

@@thuyan6890 This is the regular resin+hardener for laminating from a Polish company Royal Resin.

Hey! There were several reasons for that: 1. Fiberglass is cheaper 2. Less chance to brake it while traveling as I have a basic diving travel bag only. 3. Well known brands are doing combined materials fin blades so I did not think much as it was a "pilot" version of mine.

You need to put wax on the glass surface and polish it (I have done it 6 times). The whole sandwich looks like(bottom to top): glass-wax-resin-carbon-resin-fiberglass-resin-fiberglass-resin-fiberglass-resin-carbon-resin-nylon. No coating resin, no painting. You are getting the glossy surface from one side at once. The only problem I got was the air bobbles on the gloss surface as I did not have a vacuum chamber to remove air from resin. Hope that answers your question.

a quick fire torch gets rid of bubbles@@IlyaYarshou

I'll be doing another pair for my wife shortly using vacuum bagging as I have built a vacuum pump (the last video on the channel). But I will be using 160gr fiberglass to make it a bit softer for her. Go ahead man! Good luck!

For me it is perfect (used 200gr carbon and fiberglass) but for my wife I'm doing 160gr to make it softer. I'm always burning out wax from the fiberglass (Just learned that 15 years ago when I was making еру crossbow replicas) to make the adhesion better.

u think its necessary to burn off from carbon sheet. i have never done that didnt know it was a thing. @@IlyaYarshou

@@jpslupik definitely not necessary for carbon as the factory does not use wax and oil in the production process for carbon as it is used for fiberglass.

I have glued up two pieces of glass with a silicon glue. I had to do it for every fin blade as the glue stayed on the resin. I would suggest to put a piece of plastic bag to cover the glue but it is up to you.

Also last question. Whats the exact name of the nylon im actually trying to do it right now but the im having a hard time finding that “nylon sheet”

@@Luis-je7hz Search for "Peel ply". I was using the one with red lines. It is quite cheap and works great.

Hi! I was using twill 2/2 spread. For the next one I bought 1/1 but will see if there will be any difference.

@@IlyaYarshou the 2x2 will do as i have observed

Sorry I could not understand the question.

@@IlyaYarshou Did you use epoxy resin or polyester? low or high viscosity?

@@AtasubSpearfishing Epoxy resin with medium viscosity (for lamination).

Wszystko kupowalem na Allegro :) Powodzenia!

On tradeinn com

@@IlyaYarshou thanks mate

@@IlyaYarshou Or Adreno Spearfishing in Australia.

You can use 200g fiberglass for all layers with no problem. You can add a color pigment to resin to get rid of white/milky fiberglass color.

@@IlyaYarshou thanks! Gonna try making one next week, by the way what brand of epoxy resin did you use?

It was Royal Resin Clear. 1L was more than enough. The price was about 15$.

How was the fins holding?

@@marchanzigmunddalen.1250 What do you mean?

Will be making more stuff soon. Sorry for the delay.

A lot of composite product don't use just one type of material. Plus as other videos have indicated all carbon layup will make the blade too stiff. His title is still correct, since he didn't said "100% or all carbon". Since he is making it for himself and not selling it, he don't need to deal with those a-hole customer. Love the your blades, I think I will make one too, but probably will vacuum bag it to get a bit better resin ratio.

The white one

@@ziegfredpanen6623 Naaah, it is a nylon peel ply fabric.

Around 50 EUR in total. 1 thing is that I was suggested to use 3406 Cyanoacrilic glue for t-rails as the regular superglue I was using worked for 1 season only...

@IlyaYarshou oh okay, do you mind telling me what types of glue you used and poxy and carbon Fibre layers and where one can buy it. Really liked your video and want to try it myself. Thank you

@@mitchsvlogs5361 I have used a regular epoxy resin for laminating (just cheap one from Polish brand). 1/1 200gr carbon fiber from the internet store ( on Allegro). The glue for t-rails for shoes (don't ask why) I have bought in a local store on Tenerife.

@@IlyaYarshou thank you very much, safe diving

@IlyaYarshou what did you put in the search bar for the carbon fibre layers. I can't seem to find it.

It depends on your needs and expectations. I´m creating a new pair for my wife and a bit stuck with a vacuum pump to make the quality the best I can. So a new video is coming within a month I hope.

@@IlyaYarshou when you made it so please let me know and share cost so i will be your first customer

I want free diving fins for spear fishing carbon fins

Medium Blade for Carbon Fin Foot Pocket size 42

@@syedmuhammadhamza7608 Sure thing. Do you have your foot pockets already or you need everything?