Suggestion: Cut off the stop finger(s) to make them shorter. Their extra current length amplifies any error due to inevitable play in rotating connection and also adds to the relative clunkiness of your excellent DIY build, due to necessary use of off the shelf parts, compared to the svelte specifically engineered components of the TSO model. (Definitely just a tweak, not trying to throw any shade ... :-)
@@DadoDad IMO one of the best things besides precision and build quality about the TSO product is the compactness of its components. This is the one aspect in which your DIY tool is hampered by constraints inherent in the stock components you have so skillfully adapted. I suppose my suggestion was focused more with compactness than deflection.
Very good! Using your links, I also found a triple slot bar (2 Ts and a Miter T) that would give a slightly wider bar if desired. Also,I found an alternative stop (it shows up on same pages as searching for yours) that has its indicator at the same spot as the physical stop, as opposed to yours which has the indicator on the opposite side of the stop. This saves you a couple of inches to enable a couple more inches of length which might could be of interest if making thin strips off a new 4x8 for example. I think I also like the indicator more in this other one. They are black with two brass screw knobs and the Main camp leaver so easy to find in Amazon.
Great design! I like the all metal/ aluminum construction. My non climate controlled shop plays havoc on wood fixtures and jigs. Especially as they get longer. I’ll definitely be copying this design. I like how the third hole in the T brace ends up being the perfect hole to mount the guides on the wall.
I was so close to buying a table saw because I was getting annoyed with doing repeatable cuts (always off by a hair) but I think this will save me! Don't get me wrong I absolutely want a table saw but I want to wait until I can afford a full sized cabinet table saw. Gonna run to the hardware store and get going on this. Thanks for the idea!
Just got the tracks in today, had to wait 2 months! Seem very hard to get a hold of. Now to get the easy parts! UPDATE: I have the WEN Track saw system, and the T track is much lower than my track saw track. So, back to searching for alternatives. I'm sure I can use the T-tracks for something.
Brilliant! Analysis, synthesis, curation. I love your process! I also love my TSO GRS-16, and I recently was fortunate enough to catch their TPG-30 in stock. But your DIY looks like it would give it a pretty good run for the money... Respect.
Thanks! I'm very happy with them so I won't be buying my own. But if any manufacturer efer takes me up on my challenge I'll put them head to head on a future video.
Thank you for ur video -- I wish that I know this before I bought junk from another on eBay. I used your design, but modified it -- Thank u again. What is the model of ur saw? I had wen track saw, but it is heavy.
The flip stops have about an inch of play in the calibration slide. If you had a premade tape you could always set that slide to be a nice easy number to add. For example you might just always have to add 8” to whatever the tape says. Easy to remember for narrow cuts but it might be worth noting the amount to add somewhere for wider cuts.
Are you referring to the large T-handled bolts? At 4:43 in the video I mention why it's important to pick the oversized T handles for exactly this reason. Thanks
Instead of grinding down the carriage bolts what if you cut some segments of the connecting bar (that connects 2 tracks together) and attach that to the parallel guides.
That is a great idea! I use the TSO connectors and they work great on my Makita rail. There are 4 screws on each bar so if you cut it in half that would leave two usable pieces.
It did - good eye. I recommend the kind with the adjustable pointer. When puting the tape down you only need to be accurate to about 3/4 inch because it's fine tuned after. It works great!
This is a brilliant, cost-effective solution for parallel guides. BUT...the DIY T-bolt concept did not work for me. After much grinding, I realized that the square shank is really a problem on the track saw guides (knobs don't fully tighten down, and I don't think the hot melt glue solution would last very long in actual use), and the 1/4" bolts stripped and simply spun out in the T-track. I ordered actual T-bolts online and expect to have much better luck with them. I'll have a bunch left over: does anyone want some?
I fully anticipated the hot glue would eventually delaminate at which time I’d have to reapply it. After a full year and a midwestern freeze/thaw the original glue is still going strong. I hope you got some ideas for what works for you.
Hi Leonard. I don't recall a manufacturer label being noted anywhere on the one I purchased. Incra makes a version that I'm told works as well: amzn.to/3oniD3e. There's another version over on Banggood that has metric and imperial scales built in: www.banggood.com/custlink/3KKYnYBJbQ. If you find another source please let me know and I'll share a link here.
These are hard to find right now. The exact one I used in the video can be found here: amzn.to/2ZizQRR (sometimes this seller is sold out). Incra makes a version that I'm told works as well: amzn.to/3oniD3e. There's another version over on Banggood that has metric and imperial scales built in: www.banggood.com/custlink/3KKYnYBJbQ. If you find another source please let me know and I'll share a link here.
I agree! I'm trying to figure out why it plays loud when I watch the exported video but then it gets quiet when I upload to RU-vid. Growing pains of a new youtuber I guess but thanks for sticking it out anyway!
