How to Make Fibreglass Moulds with Uni-Mould - User Guide 

Hands up all those whose first EC video was watching the carbon bonnet being made 12 years ago! As someone new to composites in general, that video back in 2012 was a hell of an education into the entire process.

Love this ! Paul and the team has helped me really push composites to a place I never thought was possible over the years. I made so many mistakes but was persistent in my quest to be better and now years on I’m fortunate enough to be featured on their website. Can’t thank them enough for all the help! 🙏🏼❤️

Outstanding presentation. Very informative. Your quality is second to none.

Is that a side panel for an Audi R8? Someone at EC is upgrading their already nice car. Another briliant video from you guys!

Finally, a new Easy Composites video 😊

Paul you are the best when talking about technique... Now how the hell do we get products to your cousins in America...

Quality content as usual, I’d just like to add that especially with applying the first layer of backing / glass many patterns can have a very tight external radius . Normal chop strand will not follow the contour easily. My solution is to use a lightweight glass woven tape , say 50mm wide and wrap this around the edge. 1-3 layers works well . I use it at a 45 deg fibre orientation. This can be done by cutting the strip of woven tape and pulling from opposite corners. Another trick is on the second layer of gel if you catch it at the right time the glass tape can be lightly payed on top while the gel is still relatively tacky. Lightly wipe and press down with a finger . This reduces the risk of voids behind the gel and makes corners stronger. On a very tight internal radius cut a hard edge and butt it up into the corner on both planes , then a second layer of glass can be torn and the feather edges used to bridge the corners. On very tricky molds I’ve gelled then used a fillet of either body filler or fibreglass paste. You do have to watch for distortion of the gel due to exotherm so go steady . After an initial backing coat I always use 40 grit to lightly knock back any stray fibres that would cause voids on subsequent layers . Often when making patterns where body filler has been used to modify bare filler can simply be wiped with polyester resin to seal the surface, this can often save time repainting the whole pattern . Sand back and a second coat if needed. All the above methods can be used for one off low volume applications, obviously production molds and oven cure molds it’s a different matter. Please note most of the above is fine for polyester gels and resins , Adhesion compatibility to unimold gel / resin may be a different matter. 👍

Hi to all. I never stop admiring by your tutorials. I think your channel is one of the best and professionally organized set of series helping amateur enthusiasts and professionals extend the frontiers of polymer parts fabrication. I do, wait with eager each and every video to grasp a new tip and trick😂😂😂. I thought I was proficient enough in moulds building as well as parts production but you always brought new approaches and methods. Literally in every new video. Thanks a lot and all the best to channel. I was just wondering how to order all your systems to deliver them to Central Asia. Impossible to transport by air. The problem with logistics... Please advise.

Love this stuff, been using this for my bodykit mould. But now it seems like there is no companies in sweden that sells it anymore :(

Excellent as always !

How come I didn't know about this channel too?

No post cure if using at room temp. Right. Post cure if using at over 40 degrees... huh? I'm in Australia... those two aren't mutually exclusive! 😂

Como siempre,los mejores videos,muchas gracias

Les produits sont vraiment super 😊

Thank you for such a thorough tutorial. Always enjoy them. My only complaint.... you guys aren't here in the US😞

Can you apply it to a vinyl wrapped panel or will it react with the wrap?

Awesome tutorial as usual! Yes looks like I had been unsubscribed as well!☹️

Hi, I have a question: I am going to laminate a part with fiberglass. How many layers are needed to get a stiff part that can‘t be easily bent. I have read that 3 layers is good, but I use a 80g/sqm fiberglass, so I‘m not sure.

I have a question about ABS parts. I'm aware that the safe answer is to do a test (as you have stated in the video), but in theory an abs part (motorcycle fairing) which has been painted with 2k paint should work, right?

I have problem when I doing carbon fiber sheet . There is always a lack of saturation of the first layer.There is a small gap between the carbon fiber threads. Please can you help me?

Odd, I was unsubscribed from this channel, I thought that only happened to gun related channels.

Who the hell Unsubscribed me from this channel? Fix it!!