How to make the EASIEST Epoxy Resin Form / Mold 

Thanks for watching! I’m so glad it helped!

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

Awesome!! Glad it helped!!

Thabks so much for the feedback! I'm glad I could help out!!

thanks so much! i'm a big fan of using every bit of material i have. I don't like to waste stuff!

That’s awesome! Glad I could help!

Thanks so much for watching! I’m so glad it helped!

I’m so terribly sorry for your loss 💔 I pray for strength and comfort for you and your family 🙏

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!! I'm glad it helped! I'll have more tips and tricks videos up soon, too! Best of luck with the bartop, comment the link on here when it's done! I'd love to see it!

Thanks for watching! I’m glad it helped! Best of luck with your first one! Come back when it’s done, I’d love to see how it turned out! P.S. don’t cheap out on resin. Home Depot stuff etc is garbage. Make sure the surface you build on is flat and level so the resin cures flat and level, and wait at least the minimum cure time before taking it out so it doesn’t warp!

Yes screws are preferred. Thanks so much for watching!

Thank you!! I'll be mong more soon, just bee caught up in other stuff!

Thank you!! I'm glad it helped!!

I agree!! Glad this could help! Eventually if you do enough of the same size molds, a reusable hdpe form becomes a good investment!

Glad this helped!!

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

Aww thank you! No problem! I'm so glad this helped you!!

Thanks! Glad it could help!!

awesome! glad it could help you! love the SURGE picture haha thats a throwback!

thanks so much for watching!!

@@ChrisHaggertyArt Would this work for making something like a scythe blade on a bamboo stick?

If it was shaped appropriately, i dont see why not! I would personally make the blade separately, then attach afterwards.

@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thanks for the info!

Of course!

Thanks for watching!!

Thanks so much for watching!! Glad I could help! Any other questions, feel free to reach out!

Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!! I appreciate it!!

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Are you advertising for them on my video by chance?

Thank you! I’m glad it helped!

No problem! Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much!

Thanks for watching!

No problem! Thanks for watching!!

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im glad it helped! thanks so much for watching!

Thank you so much!!

Thabks so much for watching! More will be out soon, just been way behind on my RU-vid content!

thanks so much!

No problem! Thanks for watching!!

Thanks for watching!

I've never done one with concrete before! I'd love to though! I have though about experimenting with different materials for molds, and I'm currently working on a bartop for which I'm using HDPE sheets for the mold! Thanks for watching!!

@@ChrisHaggertyArt what I meant was using the silicone edge molding designed for concrete countertops to make a sculptured edge on your resin tables. Not sure if it would work but might be worth looking into. Look it up and see what you think.

@@michaelmcguire5338 ok I'll definitely check it out! Thanks so much! Sounds like an awesome feature!!

@@ChrisHaggertyArt Hi Chris, I'm looking to create a mold for my bartop also. The top has a lot of curves to it though. And the piece I want to replicate is only 1/4 inch higher than the outer edges. So how would you build a mold for the curvy part and make it about a 1/2 inch high???

Thanks for watching! I'd love to see the finished product! Send me a dm on Instagram Instagram.com/chrishaggertyart

Thanks so much!! Glad it helped!! I've been slacking on RU-vid but I'll be posting more soon!!

Thanks!! I like to keep it simple 😂

No problem!! Thanks for watching! Glad it helped!!

Thanks for watching! 👊

Hey Gustavo, sorry i havent been active on here. i would cut a round base, and then use a flexible hardboard type material, i cant remember the name of it off the top of my head to be honest. but really anything that you can cover in tape, flex to the shape of the circle, and secure to the base.

Thanks so much for watching! Yes, I suggest using thicker ply for reuse, and better quality tape. Just ensure you use screws instead of nails, and check the tape for any needed spot repairs in between uses! Enjoy!

@@ChrisHaggertyArt thank you so much for the information and quick response! I'm very excited to get started!

@user-cd5zg4kl9v best of luck with everything!!

yes, you can, however you will most likely get epoxy to bleed through the joints where the pieces of wood meet. if you are doing a form around the entire thing, that may not matter (although the colored resin would be noticeable). my suggestion would be to join the pieces of wood first, seal the seams with a bit of resin to prevent that, and then put it in the form. hope that helps!

yes it will. they will need to be sanded out, or sanded/polished.

Thanks for the support!!!

Haha thanks! Super short and sweet haha

No problem! Glad I could help!!

If I come across a way and use it, I'll be sure to post it°

If it will be coating the top and the sides, you can put painters tape on the bottom right up the the edge so you can remove the drips that collect underneath. If it’s not supposed to be on the edges, you can put painters tape covering the sides right up to the top edge (and overhanging the bottom so drips don’t go on the bottom). I’m either case, don’t wait for it to cure 100% before peeling the tape. Peel it when it is mostly cured but has a bit of flex - much easirr

No problem! Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much!!!

It has not been asked, but I don’t know! Never tried! Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I normally use 1/2” ply but I’ve used 1/4 and 3/8”. Half inch is just much more flat. The flatter the better!

Hey thank you! You can cut through epoxy on a table saw, and you can glue epoxy to epoxy with... epoxy. Lol just sand the edges to be glued. You can do miters or butt joints, just depends on the look you want! Does that answer your question?

Yes. I just made this one quick and dirty.

thanks so much! I'm glad it was able to help!!

Thanks man! Its the best type of form when you dont need to buy anything extra! 👊👊

Definitely a possibility!

Yes you can reuse it, you just may need to spot-fix the tape a bit

Thanks for the feedback!

Good info. Keep the music.

Thanks for watching! For large/deep pours, use a resin like Superclear Deep Pour. It’s like water and the bubbles come almost completely out on their own. For thicker resins, stir slowly for a longer period of time - 8 to 10 mins - annoying, but it will keep down the amount of bubbles introduced. And once it’s poured, wait 15-20 minutes to pop the bubbles with a propane torch or heat gun. Then just periodically check to see if more bubbles need popping!

@@ChrisHaggertyArt Cool, thanks for the insight! Much appreciated :)

@@leojames7331 no problem!!👊

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70 pounds that is

Not sure, to be honest. I know SuperClear has amazing epoxy, but you would need to contact the manufacturer about your unique application

Yes any packing tape should work, and screws instead of nails is fine. Just use silicone

@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thank you!

It can be reused, but use screws instead of nails. Also, you may need to repair the tape if done peels or tears. But this method is just to make a form in a pinch, not really a permanent solution.

it depends on the use. for a table, i'd recommend an inch at bare minimum. my tables are at least 1.5" thick. for wall art they can be thinner. however, make sure the form is flat and that the resin has cured for at least the recommended time in the instructions.

Hey! How the resin is mixed?

I di t see why not, the o ly issue you may run into is cupping. In this video I used 3/8" ply, and even that is too flimsy. When epoxy cures, it can shrink a bit which pulls the sides inward. My way to combat this is thicker plywood (3/4") clamping down the wood on either end (if applicable). If you used cardboard, I would make absolutely sure that it is on a super flat surface when you pour to help minimize that possibility. As for the sides, I'm not sure how stable it would be. Epoxy is pretty heavy, so I would worry that if the sides of the form were made of cardboard, that it would burst of the pour were large enough. If you use cardboard with success, please let me know! I'd love to hear your experience!

Yes you just need to clean them up a bit and possibly repair the tape. But absolutely

Haha I appreciate it!! I love where I live tho!

Naze, I'm from Nigeria too wish will could connect together

thanks! if you have any other questions, feel free to ask! I'm an open book! everything i do gets posted to my IG, so if you're on there, it has the most info! instagram.com/cambridgedriveinc !

Absolutely. If you put down a permanent backer, and a frame, and put all the contents inside, you can absolutely do that. I'm about to make a couple pieces like that myself. If you want some beach piece advice, watch my massive beach art video. I'm also coming out with a more in depth beach piece video next!

Absolutely! It may be easier for me to explain on the phone. You can call me at 8647572588 and I'll explain lol

There are a couple ways to do it, some more difficult to explain l. But one super simple way would be to get a stair tread, make a silicone mold of it, then pour into that! (If the whole thing is to be epoxy)

If you are careful with it, yes. I would use screws for reuse rather than Brad nails. You may need to repair some tape spots after demoulding but it’s easy.

Sheathing tape. Just look for the white shiny tape that says Lowes all over it. You can use regular packing tape, too, and its wayyyy cheaper, it just doesnt stick as well. But the price difference makes packing tape worth it lol

Thank you! I’ve used it but not with tons of success. But some people love it 🤷‍♂️

thanks so much! for this, anything flat lol. this was a last minute form i built on a whim, but I prefer to use at least 1/2" thick ply or melamine because its easier to keep flat. this video used 1/4" or 3/8", and the cheaper the better lol. i tend to use scraps when available.

Thanks!! I appreciate it! I'll have more coming shortly, just been behind on things

Hey thanks for watching! Glad I could bring some value to you! When using tape or HDPE sheets, you do not need mold release (It pops right off the hdpe as soon as you cut the silicone line). If you use melamine, you MUST use a release agent. I personally hate using melamine. I've never had it come off cleanly. Something ALWAYS get stuck to it, primarily the sides. Then they break and cant be reused. Also, if you use screws instead of pin nails, this style is more reusable.

if your pour was not right is the only time you might need to use spray release.{ from experience} it also sometimes creates little air pockets on a clear pour you can see them but you can always sand them out. I hope this helps

For melamine, mold release definitely helps, but honestly it still sucks

Yes, I suggest screws if you plan on reusing!

Yes! Just be careful when removing the piece from the form, touch up any spot that tape may have peeled off, and use screws instead of nails!

Thank you!! Yes, once the piece is out of the form, knock down any edges/lips and trim to size/square it. Then a router can be used to do a roundover or chamfer! That's how I do my edge treatment. After that's is all done, then I finish the piece, usually with total boat tabletop epoxy 👍 Which epoxy did you use that didnt cure?

Nope! Just tape and silicone!

Thanks so much! You can use HDPE sheets instead of wood with tape. Or you can use melamine without tape, but you should use a mold release agent with it. Also, the seams need to be sealed with silicone, caulk, or similar. You will just need to remove that afterwards. Make sure it is completely dry before pouring epoxy on it. They also sell silicone molds online that have various shapes etc and are very easy to demold.

@@ChrisHaggertyArt thank you so much..

@@ChrisHaggertyArt can we use wood glue or supper glue or mseal or hot glue for sealing the cornors... Any of these

You should be able to use hot glue to seal the corners although there is a risk of being burned, and it may be harder to get off or ensure a good seal. Products like caulk and silicone are easy to spread neatly and fill the gaps very well since that is what they were designed to do, and you dont need to worry about being burned.

@@ChrisHaggertyArt got it.. Thank you

Depends on the application to be honest. The projects in the video were all made with total boat high performance 2:1 with medium or slow hardener!

I framed the piece that this form was made for, but most of the pieces I make in this style have the edges exposed. I do a flood coat of resin over the top and ensure to rub it evenly on the sides in order to make the sides nice too. Does that answer your question? Thanks for watching!

@@ChrisHaggertyArt i meant to ask if you left the plywood on your project so you could use some type if wall hanging device ,a nail, string a piece of wire,french cleete etc.

Not with these particular pieces. However in my new style art, they are framed and built with a backer to which a French cleat is attached and hidden!

It's a little mor complicated, but you start with cutting a circular base and wrap a flexible type of material around it, wrapped in tape, and silicone. Also, I have seen an hdpe base with hula hoops taped up as the sides 😂

@@ChrisHaggertyArt Thanks so much for the quick reply! You are awesome!!! Have you ever used a glass base? I have an old glass table top - metal frame and legs need to be tossed. Would you wrap that in tape? …or use as is and let the resin stick to it? I plan to float agate slices in clear resin for a patio table.

@@susanberlin7077 that sounds awesome! I've never worked with a glass base. But being that glass is slick, if it were mine I would probably scuff it up a bit first so that the resin has a surface to adhere to. But I always test my theories first. So if you can find a few scrap pieces of glass, maybe try each method?

Did you make the round form? If not

As Chris said cut the round base out of plywood add the tape and to get the edges to conform to the circle there is a plywood we call wigglewood which is bendable. Find the thickness of plywood 1/4" etc that will work and then the circumference, cut tape and nail. There are silicone circular forms for epoxy, I can't remember the name....Craft..something!

If you are making the table, you would do the round the edges after the epoxy is poured. If the table is already built, sent me a DM with a picture on Instagram.com/cambridgedriveinc and I'll let you know how I would do it!

Hey! I would recommend making the firm out of half inch or 3/4" plywood or mdf (the smoother, the easier the tape will stick to it, but it doesn't need to be the top grade or anything). And yeah you dont need to go crazy on nails or screws because the the silicone will help hold it together too. Just wait until the silicone is cured before putting things into the form.

I went back to using screws and being more mindful of the form to reuse it. But if you go that route, predrill the holes.

Correct! It peels right off! Most of my resi. art videos have the demolding part in it, so you can check it out! It takes a little persuasion, but comes off. If you are gentle enough, you can reuse the form! Especially if you use screws rather than Brad nails 👍

You keep it in the form until the epoxy is full cured. That timeframe varies from product to product. I use Total Boat High Performance 2:1 Epoxy with medium hardener. That can be taken out of the form after 3 days. Even when epoxies feel hard, they can still warp or cup until they are fully cured. When in doubt, leave it in longer 👍 Thanks for watching!

The cheapest option is packing tape. Walmart sells a heavy duty one that comes on a green roller that works really well. The other (much more expensive) type is sheathing tape. It will have an even better grip to the wood, and release the epoxy a bit easier, but I dont think the extra cost is worth it.

Yes! However, I would suggest using screws instead of brad nails in that case. Inspect the tape after you use the form and patch any spots with new tape!