How to Make Your Door SHUT LIKE NEW! | 1st Gen Cummins 

Here is a link to the Dorman kit that includes parts for both doors for $9.00!!! - amzn.to/2EnuCJK

Nice to know this I need to perform this on my ‘92 D350 THANKYOU!

I thought it was normal. I have seen this issue on my dads truck for years. I will fix it soon, thanks!

You are my Hero! I have been suffering needlessly for 10 years! I have orderd the parts and will be thinking of this video everytime I close the door!

Just bought a w100 two days ago and the driver door has to be bungie corded shut so it doesn't fly open while driving. Thank you for this video. I will order the parts when I get home.

Awesome video!

Nicely done. A “Decent” repair

thank you

Did this today. It helps, but I still have to slam my driver door harder than I'd like to. The passenger side one, just give it a gentle push and it falls shut like a brand new 2024 car, no pressure at all. As far as I know, that's still the original 31 year old pin. Driver side, I still gotta slam unless the windows are down. Overall, good thing to do. Makes a little bit of a difference. I adjusted my striker pin and it helped a little bit. I guess I need a new door latch to get it to work like new.

The passenger-side door on my 1990 D250 Cummins would bind on the spring on the body-side, making a small "pop" sound off of one of the little rollers in that bottom hinge, as I opened the door wide. I went ahead and did your pin replacement of the bottom hinge, but it still binded a little bit. I just cleaned and lubed those little wheels on the bottom hinge, and it worked fine. However, what made my door work perfectly wasn't that pin. Yes, the passenger door sagged like yours, BUT THERE IS A SECOND SET OF ADJUSTMENTS FROM INSIDE THE CAB (9/16"): Behind the kicker panel near the floor, and behind the glove compartment box and large, ABS plastic air duct, going to the air vent on that end. (Extremely easy to remove, BTW: Only one small screw holds it in place, while the other end simply fits over another piece of vent tube, on the other side of the glove compartment box. The air vent itself can be popped-out without any tool at all!). These bolts mount the body-side door hinges to the body and have tolerance in them, and are therefore adjustable. The hinges you're working with adjust the door laterally at the striker pin (In & out from the truck), while these other bolts ACTUALLY ADJUST THE UP/DOWN ANGLE OF THE ENTIRE DOOR AT THE STRIKER PIN, lining it up with the body lines all around the door. Bottom line is this: Door pin replacement in most cases isn't even necessary for these D250's. Just a simple adjustment with a 9/16 from inside the cab. First loosen the bolts, then simply close the door completely, then re-tighten them, and done!. You'll be amazed at how perfectly straight all the body lines are around the door! The metal does shift over 30 years, hence the need for this adjustment for door sag.. As old as my truck is, I had to do the cab-side adjustment on both doors (Having to remove some material from the lower left corner of the dashboard for the driver side, in order to get a socket in there). I've never done any door pin on the driver side, and both doors work like new (along with new door latch assemblies, for that showroom feel - Highly recommended. You can still get brand-new ones from Ebay.). And of course, I nerded-out and cleaned-out and insulated my air duct (about 1-1/2 feet long) with Reflectix and aluminum tape. I don't even want to describe all the other upgrades I've done to my 1st Gen.

New subscriber today ! 1st Gen Crewcab 4WD Cummins ???? They didn't make those ?..... tell me you built the one you have . Viewed your fuel shut off solenoid video and several others, great channel you have. I have several of the first gens. 😊

Absolutely gorgeous 4 door man. Can’t wait to own one myself one day, keep up the great content!

Holy cow thats easy, thanks for this golden info.

Good video.Thanks for the info!

Thanks for making my work on my 1st gen easier! Very grateful!

Thanks man, I am going to do mine this weekend.

Excellent video...I have a 1978 D150 and I've noticed that the doors close kinda funny. I stared hearing rattling that wasn't coinciding with bumps in the road as far as the suspension and I thought it was the fender/body mounts. I looked all around and noticed that the drivers door bottom hinge was doing this...I'll be changing them as soon as I can get these hinge pins, thanks!

Very helpful video!!! Thank u!

Great video, cant wait to get home and do this lol.

Very nice video! Well done. The striker pins also wear out and replacing it also can help a lot!!!

🤦‍♂️ I can’t believe I have yet to do this to my 93 Fantastic work!

Great info !

I remember all those old cars and trucks use do that.

On my 1993 ext cab I could not for the life of me get the door side of the hinge out like he shows in the video. It kept getting bound up on the other side of the hinge and door. I had to take off the inner kick panel and undo the door hinge completely.

That was very helpful. My doors are hanging up on the latch, buy I'm looking forward to replacing my pins and bushings.

Great Video! 1st door sucked. 2nd door pin came out with 2 hits and light vis-gripe pull. When to punch the bushing out and they were gone. lol Thanks again for the video. Oh!!! where did you take the moose? Saw the antlers in your garage on one of the other video.

another thing I noticed besides driving the hinge pin in from the top that would add longevity to that lower hinge bushing would be to insert it in from the top down, which would put the meatiest part of the bushing which is the shoulder at the wear point

Couldn't find the video you say you made about aligning the door.

Good video well done and helpful. You should get a new set of striker pins as well.

There is a tension rod on the other half of the hinge that keeps the door open. The rollers on the bottom of the hinge won't clear the rod and therefore I can't get that hinge half out! No videos address this problem.

Have you got a video on LE tailgate panel removal?

I just replaced a hinge today from a parts truck and believe I will have to remove the fender to get the front bolt in🙄 I wish I would have seen this video first. I assume you didn't have any problem with the bushings falling out when you were installing the pin??

Please tell me where you got this inside door panels !!

To shut the doors on mine I have to do a 2 hand hulk slams to shut the passenger door on mine the driver door shuts okay mine is a club cab

Oh man... I had replaced my pins a while back; but never got the door in adjustment until a week ago. Struggled with it for about a year; had to lift the door to close it, etc. Wow! It’s a “little thing” but it feels like a new truck now. No more slamming, and it locks and unlocks just fine. Did it with a buddy, much easier with two sets of hands.

Looks like when you were pounding the bushings out at first your hinge moved with it, idk if your bolts behind the kick panel loosened up or not

If you want to be nice to the next guy who has to change them, Do not put the pins in from the top! I'm changing mine now and they're in from the top - I'm really struggling to get the bottom pin out because the door bottom is in the way.. have to get some long rod and make a bend in it or find a way to cut the pin...

I am unable to get the hinge to come out of my door. Moves about 1/16th” and then that’s it….could there be a tab or ring around end of hinge pin? Thank you.

Do you think that this would fix the passenger door on the white truck? Do you think W could do it?

Watching you use screwdrivers as drift punches hurts my soul.

Any idea how hard it would be to put a 1st gen body on a 2nd gen frame. Ex 87 cab & Clio on 97 frame

Quick question for ya! So in my 1991 first gen, whenever I run the AC and let the truck idle my low oil light comes on (I've been checking the oil, and have well over enough oil on the dipstick) and the truck start shaking a little more than it should. The low oil light also will sometimes come on when ever I go up my driveway a little slow, even with the AC off. Do you know what the issue may be? Like I said I have well over enough oil on the dipstick. I have narrowed it down to two problems, either the oil pump is going out, or the sending unit needs to be replaced. Do you know if anything else could be the problem? I know the engine will lag down when the AC is on since it's pulling in more power. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

I wish this video would have come out a week ago

Just did this on my '89 and there's no noticeable difference. The door is still sagging and hard to open & close. Any ideas?

Never have to fix your passenger door if you have no friends,

I for the life of me cannot figure out whats wrong with my driver door. It refuses to level out

Genos has a lot of shit for our 2nd hens y’all

Dodge and Chevy doors sag. Ford doesn’t…

You think yours is bad lol