Quick video that shows how to mod a regular Cherry MX-compatible PCB to be able to replace switches and LEDs while the keyboard is running. All you need are these TE Connectivity Holtite sockets:
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For switches:
Lead version: TE Holtite 8134-HC-8P3
Also known as: 7-1437514-1 (internal name)
www.te.com/usa-...
Gold version: TE Holtite 8134-HC-8P2
Also known as: 7-1437514-0 (internal name)
www.te.com/usa-...
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For LEDs:
Lead version: TE Holtite 8134-HC-5P3
Also known as: 6-1437514-7 (internal name)
www.te.com/usa-...
Gold version: TE Holtite 8134-HC-5P2
Also known as: 6-1437514-6 (internal name)
www.te.com/usa-...
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You can find authorized resellers of these sockets on the pages I linked.
Enjoy!
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UPDATE:
It seems that TE has removed some vendors from their website. As far as I know, you can still get these sockets from Digikey (digikey.com) as well as Mouser (mouser.com) who ship to US and Europe and many other regions as well, afaik.
Just search for the model numbers I listed above. Note that for LED sockets, you probably have to look for the internal part number.
Also note that I am going to collect a list of compatible PCBs and link it here, soon, as there are reports on reddit where boards like the JD45 or RS78 have holes that are too wide (i.e. the socket falls through). On these things, you'd have to solder the sockets, I guess.
Last but not least, people have asked how to remove a switch when everything is assembled (plate mounted). Personally, I did not have a problem with this, as I started removing them near the stabilizers (which are not plate-mounted .. just press them in and you see the PCB flexing a little ... which yields to the switches nearby getting slightly loose). HOWEVER, there are so-called Keypullers (like this one: elitekeyboards..., or this one: www.gonskeyboar..., or this one: 1upkeyboards.co...) which do the job well it seems.
29 авг 2024