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I was confused by the back and forth I read in the comments about how much to cut the PTO sliding shafts in order to shorten the length of the PTO by a certain amount. Bottom line, Ted from Everything Attachments is correct, and Craig Focus is wrong. If you need to shorten the shaft 3 inches, you cut 3 inches from each tube. I needed to shorten a PTO shaft by 3 inches. I went conservative and cut 1-1/2 inches from each tube. I ended up with an assembled PTO that was shortened by 1-1/2 inches and then had to go back, repeat the process, and cut another 1-1/2 inches from each tube. To make this easier to understand, image two pieces of PVC pipe, both of the same length, with one inside the other. Now imagine making a hacksaw cut through both pipes 3 inches from one end. You end up with an assembly 3 inches shorter than it was originally, but you've cut 3 inches off both tubes.
I had the same issue with my local machine shop. I told them I need the drive shortened by 3 inches total. They took 1.5 inches off each shaft end, which only reduced the total length by 1.5 inches. I tried to explain to them that cutting 1.5 off each shaft end wouldn't work, but the whole shop gather around to tell me I didn't know what I was talking about. I generally don't tell others how to run their own business, but I felt sure I was right. I let them win the discussion, took the drive shaft home, and found it was still 1.5 inches too long. So I took a reciprocating saw and made the cut my self which was surprisingly easy.
I wish I had read all of the comments before I followed this video. My pto shaft was already going to be very short and engagement lacking. I’ll be breaking out the mig welder to add shaft back on but I can’t add the plastic shielding. Damn….
I just follow this procedure on my Kubota BX25 to attach King Kutter BX 48" tiller. What a disappointment, my distance measured as he describes was 26" and shaft was standard 32". As he says I should cut 32-26" and minus 2" (total to cut 8"). I decided to go conservative and cut 7.25". First what I notice, was that shaft plastic covers will not cover each other. Second that even at this conservative cut, I overlapped shaft only ~3" (he don't tell but shaft should engage each other minimum of 6" or 1/3 of length) ... Don't know if this will happen on longer distances, but here is what I see wrong with his measurements:you don't need those 2 inches - you better take bear minimum like 1/4". After all you measured minimum distance between tractor shaft and attachment shaft - on one side you did not go all the way to bolt point - so you already have minimum 2" of play in shaft. Second is that you should cut only one of the plastic covers. Second you need to remove from shaft all together and you will cut after you successfully complete job of mounting shaft between tractor and attachment. This will insure that you can measure how much you need to cut - so you don't end up too short. I will see if my shaft will survive work, hope for the best, planning for worst...
This guy usually is very helpful and knows what he's talking about in his other videos. I also just wasted a $200 shaft cutting it the way he says in his video. Do not listen to this tutorial! My new shaft was 31" fully compressed. The measurement from pin of implement to rear of tractor pto shaft was 25.5". From what I understood from his method, I needed to take out an extra two inches, making the new desired compressed shaft length 23.5". To get to this desired length I would subtract 31-23.5" = 7.5" from both sides. This did not leave enough engagement between the two metal shafts, and it also did not allow the plastic to cover the whole metal shaft once they were together. I believe if I would have taken off half of this amount on both sides it would have been correct, but that's not how it was described in the video.
Do yourself a favor and before you cut, figure out how long it will be after the cut and write that number down. Saves the oopsies moments. His fudge factor is because they measured off a tractor with out checking how close they can get. Just mount the implement no PTO. Level it for how it's used then lift it and measure your length from grove to end of other shaft. Give yourself half an inch from that so you can pull the coupler off. In that way you have .5" plus the 2" of coupler engagement before you have a problem. Tillers and flails are bad for this because they're usually pretty tight up.
However, the radius does change, because the implement cannot be lifted throughout the arc without changing the radius, because the toplink prevents this. I believe the correct term here is that the implement is lifted in a tangent.
hi was wondering how much i would have to cut my pto shaft down my pto shaft 41 inches and from the detent on the mower to detent on the tractor is 34 inches thank you
Stupid question, I have a quick hitch so I would measure from center pin where the quick hitch connects? Or do I still measure from center pin of the 3 point itself
Could you explain this process for a Post Hole Auger? I understand it has to be done a little differently due to the reversed lengthen and shortening? I may not be asking correctly.
No way this can be this hard. I’ve watched 5 videos on this and they are all more confusing than the last. Anyone with a pto shafts for dummies explanation. I’m not trying to hold levels in the air and measure imaginary spots.
If my PTO Shaft is 33" and my Measurement from tractor to the my tiller is 27". How much do I cut off? I'm thinking 8" to give it the 2" clearance. But not sure.
for all the confused people the first shaft was 31" & needed 3" off of it, then he changed shafts & that 1 he cut 2" off since it was a standard 30" shaft. 28" was the length of shaft he needed
the measurement was 31 inches and the first shaft was 32 inches.then he went to a standard 30 inch shaft.he needed to cut the standard shaft one inch to make it 29 inches.that would give him two inches of clearance because his measurment was 31 inches right?
To shorten the total assembled shaft length by 1", you must cut 1" off of each half. It is hard to imagine in your mind, but it is true. The video is a little confusing, so it is best to hook the attachment up to the tractor first without hooking the pto shaft to the tractor. Raise the attachment up so the tractor shaft and the attachment shaft are parallel. If you can hook the pto shaft up at this point and have a little slide room, it is fine. If it will bottom out, you'll need to shorten the shaft some to create some slide room. The more you measure/check before cutting lessens the percentage for error.
90% of that made sense to me. The measurements changed because he was using two different shafts in the video and then at the end he said when the shift is level it is at its closes point BUT when he lifted past when the shift was level he said it gets even tighter then. That doesn't make sense to me, he's saying two complete different things but I do agree with the shift being at its shortest when level.
The shaft is 32, he needs 31-2 which is 29 so he has to cut 3 inches. He measured the shaft to bottom out at 31 inches, the shaft itself is longer by an inch.
For me to avoid ruining a pto shaft I hook up the implement and level ,take guard off shaft so you can see what you're doing and then put on tractor measure and cut then cut guard accordingly, it may be a alot slower but I'm not taking a chance of ruining a new shaft. Measure 2-3 times cut once.
8:43 It doesn't make sense. If the shaft shortens when you raise the implement, than you'll never have to raise the implement to put your shaft on. The danger comes when you try to raise the implement and the shaft is too long.
Absolutely best video on how to figure out the length needed without having to connect an implement first to do it, and a reminder of how to figure out the amounts to cut and why to keep the shield shorter than the shaft. The fact that they used a different shaft for the cutting so only had to take 2 inches off of it, instead of the 3 inches that was measured as needing to come off the shaft that was going to ship with the implement, might be confusing to some. But if you just follow the process, calculate your numbers for your implement, and cut to your own numbers you'll be just fine.
Yes! One would think that with an informational video, that you use the same measurement! Thought at some point that I missed something once watching the cutting segment of the video.
OK I get the measuring point on tiller, you measure indent on tiller shaft and then bolt hole on PTO drive shaft, that makes sense, same measuring points. BUT on tractor your measuring from end of shaft and then you measure end of PTO drive shaft, the end of PTO drive shaft slides on past the end of tractor shaft and past the indents on tractor shaft, so I dont get it.......... In my mind all PTO measuring should be measured from all indent points, on both shafts and PTO drive shaft, so did I miss something..................
Nope...it is confusing but you do have to cut the same amount off of both halves of the shaft to shorten it correctly. 3 inches off of both halves of the shaft...it has to do with the two overlapping halves.
The overlapping part tends to confuse people. If one thinks of it as both shafts are bottoming out, then one might can visualize why both have to be cut the full amount.
@mdcrab68 - that confused me as well however after watching the video over and over the dependency is because he changed shafts and just didn't share that the second shaft was an inch smaller than the first shaft that he was shipping to a customer for them to measure and cut for their equipment.
Good video. Have a question. I bought my mower with PTO included. At some point previous owner got a slight twist on the inside shaft. :Likely didn't watch your video to proper sizing. How far must the inside shaft go into the outer for it to be ok.? When I collapse the shaft it stops at the twist which is about 6 inches still out of outer sleeve. I still need two inches shorter so can I just cut the outer by the two inches or will that likely be a problem?
Just an FYI for anyone out there. I did this method on my kubota 2710 and the shaft is now too short and it separates when I lower my tiller all the way down. This method will work well for larger tractors but when you have such a short distance from the tiller gear box to the tip of the PTO shaft on your tractor you need to leave as much as possible on the shaft or it will separate. I had to order a PTO extender to fix the problem.
I noticed the same thing...I figured he just used the 2 inch figure arbitrarily or was cutting another shaft for a different customer/implement...he should have used the 3 inch measurement to avoid confusion.
I am new to the PTO world, I have a couple of Bobcat Skid Steers and usually use the quick attach but decided to purchase a 3 point attachment for the Bobcat so that I could utilize some of the accessories that utilize a PTO shaft. I recently purchased a large chipper that had some really confusing instructions regarding how to cut the PTO shaft to fit my machine and I was really glad to find and view your video - which helped me tremendously - Thanks very much!
ok so you measured 31", and said take off 2". Then when you hooked up, you said you wanted it to be 28". that's 3", so do we want 2 or 3 inches? I'm getting ready to put a new shaft on my tiller, looked up how to measure and found this. Love EA, but this one contradicts itself...so which is it?
I used Teds method yesterday to cut my PTO shaft on the King Kutter XB tiller for my BX25. Worked perfectly. Thanks Everything Attachments for another great video
Joey Oliver I'm about to buy the 54 xb tiller what length did you end up with, I will still measure but wanted a rough idea in case I come up with something thats drastically different. Ive got the bx2680...
I cut 7 1/2 inches off the shaft total. I checked my numbers several times, but was so nervous, I made the first cut at 5" just to make sure. I used a 18v trim saw with a metal cutting disk, and it worked just fine. Very easy to cut. Then I cut 2 1/2 more inches off. Teds method is exactly right. Have confidence. Once you make the cut and it fits, you'll be able to do it in 15 minutes. BTW, Im going to do a review this weekend of the XB. Now, I kinda wish I got one with 4 tines instead of 6. Ill go over that in the video...
Joey Oliver I started mine last evening I was nervous as well, kept measuring and thinking about the video. Made the first cut at just 3 inches I was too nervous. Then wanted to go to a total of 5 so went take off 2 more and our saw burned out, looks like I will have to wait a few days to get back to it. Anyway its looking like I will most likely be around the same 7.5 mark as you I'm just going to do it a little at a time! Thanks again!
Hi Ted, you know some PTO shafts have a shear bolt at one end to protect the attachment from being overloaded. Does this end always have to be at the attachment end or can it be put at the tractor end? The fixed wide guard on my topping mower makes it very difficult to remove the PTO shaft to replace a broken shear bolt.
I cut my PTO shaft as you said. I have a 2 inch gap between the PTO shaft and the tractor, however when I slide the PTO shaft on, the extra travel locking it into place is another 2 inches, so now I have a 4 inch gap. Surely this extra travel measurement should be taken into account when cutting the shaft?
The radius shouldn't change because the PTO is almost level with the stabilizer bars. The stabilizer bars & the toplink mounting points, both on the implement & the tractor, form an almost equalateral triangle, which should align with each other.
Guess I'm missing something. When you measure, you are an inch too long and say you need 2 inches for slack, a Total of 3 inches. BUt when you cut, you only cut 2 inches.
Very interesting. I always thought the PTO shaft was sized for the implement only. It probably explains why the shaft on my sawbench pops apart when lifted 12 inches off the ground. I always disengaged the clutch before lifting it though.
Was arguing with someone on a forum that if the shaft needs to be 1in shorter you need to cut 1" from each end. They were saying that 1" from each end makes the shaft 2" shorter.
attached my tiller today, the pto shaft was against the back of the tractor pto spline, the pto spline on the tractor is 3 inches, should I cut off 3 or 5 inches
How come my tiller PTO shaft is so much heavier duty (it is 50 yrs old)? The sight of these newer PTO shafts seem to be too wimpy. Even my rotary mower PTO shaft is heavier than current shafts. Are current shafts lighter yet stronger??? I just want to have any chance of twisting it if tilling in heavy soil. I feel more comfortable with a heavier shaft.
I did exactly as this video said and my pto pulled apart, it to short! I suggest 1" shorter not 2 for any ground engagement equipment. P.s. use the cut piece of inner shaft to keep outer shaft inline while welding a piece back on and weld somthing to the inner piece in case you tack it so you can get it out. I should start making videos!
At the end Ted states if you have to raise your implement to put it on then when you lower it you can damage the equipment.As shown the shaft is at it shortest when raised and longest when lower so if the shaft was too long at raised position you couldnt put it on but it may go on at the lowest setting and damage when raised.I have never seen so much confusion when reading the posts on shortining a shaft.My problem right now is the oposite.I am thinking of adding quick hitch extension to my arms of the tractor but it lenghthens it 4" from what i have measured there is 8" space in the pto tube as is.This would reduce it to 4"which the woods mower instructions says is needed of contact of the tubes,Still I am going to check with the dealer that I bought the tractor and tiller to get thier advice.Dont want to have unsafe condition or be out 180$.
Judging a young farmers field day & thought I’d see if I could pick up any tips as the exercise consists of maintenance & correct way to attach a PTO Shaft to a tractor. I can’t believe what I just saw ? Where was the health & Saftey as regards to cutting the guard on the band saw !!! 😂
This is not correct. If you need to shorten your PTO by 3 inches, you would take 1.5 inches off of both ends of the PTO. In essence, whatever total length you need to shorten to, you take 1/2 of that off of both sections. Don't believe me? Here's a simple test. Take a piece of paper say 8 inches long. Cut it in half to make two 4 inch pieces. Overlap them by one inch so that the total length is 7 inches with 1 inch overlap. Let's say that we want to shorten the over all length from 7 inches to 5 inches. According to this video, you would take 2 inches off of both pieces. Do that, and you'll end up with a total length of 3 inches (not 5 inches) with a 1 inch overlap. I should have done this test to begin with. I shortened my PTO too much because of this...
Craig Fogus Wrong. What ever amount you need to shorten the shaft you have to cut that same amount off both sides. Remember, in the shortest position, both tubes are fully overlapped, ends touching the universal joint yoke. If you cut each side 1 1/2 inches, you only shorten the entire shaft by 1 1/2 inches. Your paper example is done wrong. The shaft is too short in the fully collapsed position, and you are setting up your paper example not fully collapsed, so they can still be overlapped more. Take the two four inch pieces of paper and lay them one right on top of the other so the length is still four inches. If you want to make the total length three inches, you have to cut one inch off BOTH pieces of paper. Clear as mud? Something else I have thought about that might explain it. If you cut two inches off each side of a pto shaft, you shorten the collapsed length by TWO inches, and at the same time you shorten the maximum extended length by FOUR inches. You have to remember the overlap, the two shafts one inside the other. Another example: Take two standard rulers, 12 inches, and lay one on top of the other. The minimum length is 12 inches. To make the minimum length 11 inches, you have to cut one inch off each ruler. This also reduces the maximum extended length by two inches to 22 inches. ·
Just plain wrong... Whether something slides on something or in something, it's the same thing. Any second grader can test it. Maybe you can test it out in a video? My example stands. Does yours?
Craig Fogus Your example does not stand. It's still wrong. The difference is if you are talking about the minimum collapsed (one piece fully inside the other piece), or the maximum length (pieces slid apart with minimal overlap). Again, take two standard 12" rulers, lay them one on top of the other, and you have a total length of 12". If you need to shorten this length to fit into an 11" space, you have to cut ONE inch off BOTH pieces.
+Craig Fogus wrong. since one tube fits inside the other tube, the pto shaft is only as short as your longest tube. that's why if you want 3 inches total removed, it has to be 3 inches from each tube.
+Kevin Scurlock read what trentstractor said. He's right, and so am I. We're just saying it differently. The minimum distance will always be the length of one of the tubes or basically both tubes collapsed. However, the maximum extended difference is lessened by double. If you need to shorten the PTO by 2 inches when it's fully collapsed, you take 2 inches off of both tubes. However, this means the maximum extended length of the PTO is now reduced by 4 inches! The problem is, if you measure the shortest distance, and cut that amount off, your total extended distance can be too short. That's exactly what happened to me. On further inspection, I think that this is usually not an issue with large tractors since the tolerances are greater. However, with compact tractors like mine (JD 1025r), the tolerances are much stricter. I've since added a quick hitch, so I believe this greater distance will help with this issue, but I won't know until I test the theory.
