@@AbouttheHouse0 when i watched you use basic math to calculate the thickness, I felt like a child learning how to tie my shoes. Really easy, makes total sense... and empowering. a moment of wonder!
Perfect. I spent 5 figures on double glazing with ''industry guarantees' - not worth the paper they're written on. So I'll be replacing a couple of broken units myself. Been wondering how to get started - thank you!
Great job! I recorded 40 mins of video changing the glass and guess what? Summat went wrong and there was no sound. 😞😞 😂. I might try editing it with a voiceover.
I hope this isn't a silly question, but shouldn't the split line *always* be on the inside? Why put it on the outside? It makes it much easier for someone to break in.
When ordering the unit, they will also want to know the spacer bar (the bit between the two panes of glass that make up the double glazed unit) colour; silver, black etc.
What if it’s a unit that doesn’t open? Can I assume that the panels that do open will have the same thickness? I’m thinking of a window with a central fixed unit and two side units that do open.
My local place made to measure double glazing glass made it within 30 minutes, never had it in stock but made it from scratch in 30 minutes while I waited
Good question, but I'm afraid I don't know. I've never come across ally frames. I try hard to be a source of trustworthy and accurate information. Hence, if I don't know I would rather be honest and say so. I know it's not what you wanted to hear. Sorry about that. If you find out would you come back and let us know for anyone else who may ask, please?
@@ProfessorWhit3 I filmed fitting the new glass but my camera work when to pot and I ended up with some scenes missing and no sound at all. Maybe I'll revisit it and see if I can do anything with it.
Why does 10mm have to deducted, both H and V? I've replaced x5 units and the deduction means the glazing unit has to be toe and heel with 5mm plastic pads called packers. Surely the gap need not be so big? ... it means a bigger gap for cold air to creep through. Also, it bemuses me that upvc glazing caps can be on the outside. A couple of minutes to remove them, take the glazing unit out and the burglar is in.
I've heard you should always pack at the bottom to allow moisture to drain away from the window to prevent getting moisture in between. I also guess the 10mm is to allow for variations in the frame width plus expansion and contraction. My patio doors have the beads on the outside which I found bizarre too. I'm not sure why, but they are normally sealed in with double sided tape.
I've just measured up my unit as 62mm with 18mm space each size meaning the glass unit is 26mm. This doesn't seem to be a standard size. Sounds like 24 or 28mm is more normal! What should I go for? Will it matter if it's slightly too thick / thin?
I've broken a few windows deliberately in the course of my professional career, but this is the first time in my life I've actually broken one by accident. There's a first time for everything and i got a couple of videos out of it, lol
It is, provided you can get a tripple glazed the same overall thickness as your double glazed. Have the gaps filled with argon or you'll gain almost nothing
@@AbouttheHouse0 Thanks I'm thinking it's only worth while if you do all window's so I'll probably just replace my blown one's with argon filled double glazing.
@@ryanh3285 With a 28mm unit (std double glazing) you'd end up with 8mm air gaps if you used triple. The gap is too small to make a difference. proper triple glazing needs to be thicker to make a real difference. And you'd need to do the whole house. It's a shame you can't get a film that can make clear glass into K glass. I found my frames are not effectively sealed to the walls, so I foamed round my patio doors and renewed the seals. Made a huge difference at little cost.
