I’ve said this so many times it’s not even funny. You channel is so under rated and should have way more followers, the technical info you put out there is great. It’s real world stuff. Much appreciated going to be building a cr for my second gen this winter!
I have that exact cylinder bore guage, it works great. measuring is a very important step to 2nd checking any machine work done, and to know it’s right.
Hey Josh, I guess you prolly had the cylinders honed with a torque plate. If so, have you ever seen a difference in the cylinder bore measurement with the torque plate bolted on versus with the torque plate off? Great video, thanks buddy
As a machinist I gotta say a couple things. First, good content and your explaining proper methods, especially mentioning about doing things with two hands vs one. Much easier and accurate with two hands. Also to note, the set of outside Mic’s that you are using are about 10 times more accurate than your basic micrometer. If someone is on a budget and can’t afford a complete set like you have that measures .0001” resolution vs .001”, because they can be over $500. Find out what size mic you need and just buy the individual one. A lot of times mic’s under 5” range are less than $50 when bought as a single. Second is if you are doing this yourself and you live in a cold or hot climate, make sure you put everything in the same place the day/night before you plan to measure it. Because if your tools and pistons are in the house/garage that’s 75 degrees and your block is out in the shed where it’s 45-100 degrees depending on time of year and where you live. You could get a size difference of over .001” just from a 15-20 degree temp difference in the part to your measuring equipment. And lastly to try and avoid some math for you because in this case your main goal is to just check clearances. Measure the pin/piston/crank/cam, etc. Then lock the mic in place. Now set your dial bore gauge to zero. So instead of setting the dial bore gauge to 4.210” you would set it to zero at 4.2076 as that was your largest piston. Now when you check the bore in the block you will get the exact piston to wall reading without having to do any calculations and not risk of missing a decimal place. Looking forward to more content on this build.
Thanks for all the tips! I did start zeroing the dial bore gauge shortly after to make it easier. Definitely recommend the temperature thing as well! Thanks for watching!
I cut some fiberglass angle not sure what you would call it looks like angle iron but its fiberglass .Its like half inch thick . Pretty tough material . At any rate I cut a few pieces like 6 inches long . I use those for place in the jaws of my vice to hold what ever I want and not mess up the surface . I watched a show don't remember which one that also recommended that dial bore gauge . I started to buy one but I was not sure how good it was . Where I use to work they had a machine shop , so I could use there tools . Sure miss that lol . Silly question do you have the block honed with a torque plate on it . I used that on gas motors including my Harleys but I was not sure about a Cummins thank and I appreciate the videos
Also, you knew before hand the crank main journal size and piston size so I assume you told the machine shop what to hone the cylinders and mains out to? Just asking cause I've never put a high performance build together just stock stuff, but I'm gonna give it a try.
My Haynes techbook says piston to wall should be .0005 to .0015. That's super tight compared to every post on forums and RU-vid. Am I missing something? 2003 24v isb 5.9. Stock application (bucket truck) runs at idle most of the time and wide open twice a day.
In your opinion, what would be a fair price to have an engine machined. Bore/hone block Line bore and install cam bushings Machine main caps for 14mm and line hone Deck head if needed and fire ring I see numbers all over the place from 1800 to 7k I’ve never built a diesel out. I’ve got about 30k put away to put into my truck. 10 of it is pretty much going in the trans at firepunk. If you had 20 to put into a street trucks engine that’ll never tow, how would you spend it. 05 4x4 5.9 with 250k miles
One thing I don’t hear a lot about is total seal top ring, in a diesel is there too much heat and pressure for 2 thin rings, maybe they don’t wipe the oil off the cylinder wall.? IDK
Cool to see the fine measuring tools for buildin the "sauce holder".......buuuuuut.........🤯 my pea brain is smokin 🤣🤣🤣. I'm to OCD when my ADD let's me focus on somethin to ever get all the necessary clearing of walls and boring of gaps with the plastometric squisher since I lent Mike the mic to measure the who-dickey in the chunchit valve.........lash.......compound hurricane donuts (turbskins) for proper propellent to air leakage (airs and fuels contents events) and pinning back of the ears (speed).........BASICALLY..........if I caint meajer it with Stanley, two flat sticks, or get real presicive with wire or balin twine wrap, then measure the respective length of said wrappin with some 3.14 pie.......I'm hooped! I guess I could always look it up on this tube of you everyone's going on about of videos and tutorials and stuffs............
I love the humility man. You’re the guy I learn all my stuff from. And I do mean ALL. And the foremost Common rail Cummins guy I know of. But you’re still so eager to learn different ways of doing things and different approaches. Much respect ✊🏻 it’s a craft never mastered
