To anyone watching, Solidworks has a feature under insert > features > threads and from there you can select the surface you want threads on and the parameters based on standard thread sizes (i.e. M10 x 1 or 1/4"-20). for female thread patterns, be sure to change the parameters to "cut" threads and "tap" for male, "extrude" and "die". This will save you from having to manually create your threads.
Tips for solidworks: Use convert entities, and when seleting reference geometry > axes, you can actually select the face of a cillinder and it will place a axes in the middle of it. Great tutorial!
Thank you very much Conor. You instructional is the best out there... and you narration about why you decided on things is tremendously important for the viewer to understand. ... Outstanding !🙂
Thank you Conor! Absolutely great video. Very thorough, great for learning your ways around Solidworks. Hope to see more videos on solidworks and more of your engeneering knowledge 😊 Much love from Norway
Really enjoy following this along; drawing in SolidWorks as I go; great to learn about required tolerances and tips and tricks for 3-D print beginners. Much appreciated.
Great video! Drew it, printed it and it works like a champ! The combine tip is very useful. Hadn't done that before, but will definitely use it for other threaded projects. Well done! Thanks.
When you created your offset geometry by 0.2mm for the thread clearance, there was no need to manually change the original lines to construction. The offset command has options to auto convert base or new geometry to construction type. Regardless, well done and very helpful.
I believe you could have used the indent feature to create the body thread, which allows to “cut” with a clearance included. This eliminates the need for the extra part you created or the combine step.
Thanks a lot for your smart presentation! So far I used Fusion360 and I see, that Solidworks works quite similiar. Is there no automatic threading in solidworks? You did it manually ... Greetings from Munich. (One Proposal by a foreigner: Please speak a little bit more articulated /louder , so foreigner may understand better what you say, thanks)
When you use the Combine command, I assume that removes exactly the same amount of material from the grooves as the amount of material of the thread, so when you 3D print it, I would guess that twisting the threads into the grooves would be extemely tight, given that there is no tolerance. So, is there a way to add a little tolerance for the thread with a slightly wider groove? Thanks!
You could avoid all of the offset stuff for thread clearance by simply using the indent feature to cut the threads in the "box/container" which has a built in clearance parameter. Would save you much time and effort.
I am struggling with helix. The start point does not alight with the thread profile sketch and I have no idea how to modify the helix start point. Can anyone help? :)
Quick note: There's no need to create an axis for circular patterns. You can either turn on temporary axes and select one of those, or simply pick a radial surface.
Anyway I have followed all the indications several times, and it does not turn out right. The threads do not match when I inspect with a cross section. I give in
You might be able to mate the helix's but I'm not sure I just mated to concentric circles and positioned it manually to check the part was correct though
Thanks! That's a fair point, when I made this I hadnt really considered that people might be still designing using imperial. The mils and millis thing has caused more than a few engineering disasters! Mils is always millimetres in the EU. I definitely would not recommend designing anything in imperial it's just not as practical or usable as metric.
Awesome. Thanks a lot. I did it. It worked great. I used a LULZBOT TAZ printer and worked great! Thanks man. Would it be possible to provide the technical drawing for this? Would really appreciate it. Cheers.
is there a reason you decided to create that plane for the helix? instead of using the bottom face and using that as the starting point for the helix, and using that bottom face as the sketch midpoint for the thread sketch? or would that not work
Thanks Daniel, I don't think the threads feature had been released when I made this project. But it is a great addition to Solidworks and it is a much easier method of making threads than the one I describe in the video. I might update the video in the future to reflect this change.
@@conorwalsh_net I guess it's good to know about both. I'm trying to make threads for an american garden hose (female) for a project. The hose threads are 11.5 and I didn't see that in the thread feature but maybe I'm looking in the wrong place!
Thanks that was helpful. Wondering if you have tried a smaller wall thickness than 4mm? I guess that would require the thread size to be smaller than 2.2mm as well.
i have tried it and it does not work, prolly for a few reasons, one is solidworks makes threads that are perfectly matched, there is no clearance between them. I have tried to change the clearances but its not easy, I can see how to change the height and the width but not the angle.
Yes it works fine but you have to make clearance manually. Make outer diameter of male part a little smaller and inner diameter of female part a little bigger before you apply threads and it will make a gap between the threads. I think I used about 0.6mm clearance for M12x1.5 threads. Try different diameters until you find one that looks about right.
Heya, So while you cut the threads in the cylindrical cup Solidworks gives me the error of over defining. Not sure why that doesn't seem to happen in your case.
The nozzle on my printer is 0.4mm wide you could use different measurements but they may not be exact as the printer will approximate some of the measurements to multiples of its nozzle width it works fine for most prints but when you need exact tolerances for parts to fit together it can be important
At 21:30 he was adding the offseton by making the thread in the copied cap a little bit bigger 0.2mm if Im not wrong which then will combine with the second piece
It's 0.6mm not 0.6" which is roughly 0.02" I would not recommend using imperial for something like 3D printing that requires such precision. I'm in Europe so I would never use anything but mm for engineering projects