The Wheeler level-level-level kit is a must have, IMO. Been using it for years with good results. One good way to adjust eye relief is to shoulder the rifle with the scope in the rings, but loose enough to slide with some effort. Once you get close, shoulder your rifle with your eyes closed, then open your eyes. If you're good, you will have a nice clear picture from your natural hold.
I went and bought a gun vice. Over the years I have mounted quite a few scopes and you have now taught me all that I was doing wrong. Much appreciated. My oldest brother was LRRP sniper in 'Nam 63-65 before regular hit boots on ground. We talked about his working with 'Nards going into Camcodia BUT he refused to shoot after he got back. So much respect for what you guys do and in 1 video I learned more than my previous 62 years shooting. Subscribed!
I was always a bit skeptical of this method since I'm a long range person and have my own system. I went ahead and bought the Wheeler kit and replicated your process, then proceeded to look through the scope at a plumb line I set up ahead of time (verified zero degree cant every 4 inches all the way to 60 inches with my digital degree/angle finder). I also turned on my Tough Tactical precision digital scope level, which I mounted ahead of time. I was delighted to see that everything was perfect and I'm convinced your method is indeed a good one.
I've been doing this stuff for a long time, with nary a lesson other than logic, some personal experience working on car stuff, and looking around for data from the optics companies. I do this exactly (almost to a "T") like you do. I am delighted to find out my own method meets your considerable experience and that my skills were honed by doing things incorrectly - which means I learned how to do it right by doing it wrong many times.
I’m glad to hear! Just remember that regardless of mounting method, the key is to shoot a tall target test. That’s what confirms that you’ve mounted plumb, that your reticle is straight, and that your optic is tracking properly. Thanks for watching! -Gary
I use plain ole line levels. They work fine. Very practical advice offered on this video. Beginners will find it useful. Not all receivers are the same. So there are times the barrel mounted level will come in handy. I manage fine with my line levels, but the barrel mounted level is worth getting.
Great video. As a mechanic who has built engines, and torqued many bolts to spec, I will add that if you remove a fastener that has loctite applied, the loctite needs to be cleaned off the threads and fresh loctite applied before retorqueing. This is necessary for accurate torqueing of the fastener. This would be difficult to do in the field. I know I would probably lose the fastener, being a bit of a butter fingers. I an glad you instructed your viewers to use the proper stuff for torqueing scope fasteners. Thank You.
As a veteran and former Correctional Officer on a Super Max Prison SRT squad for 10 years; I can definitely say this is the most complete and comprehensive scope mounting tutorial I've ever seen. Very informative and accurate. You absolutely do it the correct way. I have the exact same set up as well as the Wheeler Digital F.A.T Wrench. You have gained another follwer.
Well first, thank you for your service and thanks for following. I recently released an update to this video with even more info. Check that out at link below and welcome to the Paramount Family! Complete Guide To Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OG8CchRYlDw.html
I’ve used the bubble method as well effectively. My dad was a WWII sharpshooter and he taught me the same way of leveling that you use. Recently I found a device called “Fix it Sticks Scope Jack”. It works without a rifle vise, no bubble centering and it works easily as well as bubble leveling and just as accurate. It takes about 3 minutes. Love it more than words can say.
I use something similar. The Arisaka scope level. It uses similar principals. And all you need is…. Almost nothing else. But a bench vise comes in handy.
Great video! I used this video to mount my SHV4-14 nightforce to a nightforce mount on my AR-10. The leveling system from wheeler is very worth it. The most difficult part for me was tightening the scope rings down evenly prior to torquing them.
I was in the army 06-10 19k so basically an over trained grunt. Never got anything more than basic kit no optics and definitely didn't get a tank but this has helped me so much. Have watched this video about 5 times now and about to properly mount my first scope. Much appreciated.
I used this method and it turned out great. First time mounting a scope and there are so many different suggestions on RU-vid but this seemed to make the most logical sense. Thanks for the video!
This is the most informative video on scope mounting I have ever seen. I have mounted a lot of scopes over the years but now I see a lot of mistakes I have done. Thank you so much for producing this video. And thank you for your time in the service. I too am a first-time viewer and just subscribed to your channel. Thank you again for the lesson on mounting scopes.
Butch, thank you for the kind words, it’s appreciated. I’m dumb and a visual/kinesthetic learner, so I break things down step by step,the way I would need it shown to me. I’m glad you subscribed. Definitely check out our other videos and join us on a Friday’s at 7pm ET for our livestreams. Glad you’re part of the Paramount family now. Thanks for watching! -Gary
Just found your channel as I'm looking to mount a scope on my AR, and wanted to get it right the 1st time. You nailed it for me! It's not my first time, just a first for AR's. You gave me a lot of good tips to consider, and my OCD thanks you. Subbed and liked! Thank you for your service 🇺🇸
As a retired SeaBee who knows very little about this stuff, I am grateful for the “plain speak” delivery of knowledge and information that is necessary now that I’m craving an understanding of distance shooting. Thank you. You’ll hear from me again.
I've been a cabinet making instructor for 22 years. That being said, I applaud the fact that you kept your instructions simple on every phase of installation. I always called it to keep it simple, stupid too, my students. A saw runs at 10,000 rpm. Shapers about 20,000 rpm. Fingers get cut off very, very quick. Thanks good instructor. You also drove home important points.
Very good vid ! As a hunter and all the glass I've installed on my hunting rifles have always worked just fine. Now I'm wanting to get into long range PRS and this is going to help A LOT Thank you for the vid and Thank you for your service!
This has been my technique for installing scopes for over 20 years!!Excellent presentation 👍 Just follow your procedure in this video: Your Scope Will Be Mounted Perfect! B Deacon Manitoba Canada 🇨🇦
I was a tanker for 32 years so I don't have much experience with Little Guns, but your credentials and professional instruction are enough for me. This video helped me set up my rifles the right way and also got me to spend a few hundred bucks to enhance my tool kit. Thank you!
I'm a 20-year Army Vet. After watching your video I followed the link for the mounting bundle. After seeing the quality of the items in the bundle and the price I placed my order for the bundle. Great quality and prices.
Craig, I really appreciate that. Welcome to the Paramount Fam! Make sure you join us live on Wednesdays for our Dangerous Liberty Podcast here on RU-vid and Rumble. Thanks for your service! -Gary
I have followed your directions explicitly with the Wheeler mounting kit. Being somewhat of a skeptic however I hung up plumb line and the reticel was perfectly in line with the plumb line. thanks
So I’ve mounted a lot of scopes a regular person would use usually in the 500 to 1000 dollar range these scopes almost always have had the cross hairs slightly canted in relation to the turret so if you level off using the turret your cross hairs will be canted , that is why the “flash light method or plumb bob is used , this guy has to remember we are not all setting up a 5000 dollar rig it , would be nice but some of can’t afford high end equipment so we have to make less expensive stuff work. The flashlight method has worked for me out to 1000 years with no problems.
You need to watch my updated video where I cover this exact argument. Complete Guide To Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OG8CchRYlDw.html If your reticle is canted and you level off the reticle, your optic CANNOT work properly. I show you why in the linked video. This video has nothing to do with price of your setup. It’s like $200 worth of tools that I recommend and you don’t have to buy them. Use the principles laid out in the video and don’t spend a dime. Watch the video above and this one is good too so you understand the mechanics and the why. Scope Mounting Myths - BUSTED! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yDBmS5P08j0.html
I dont follow anyone or subscribe but the way you said almost free and proved you were knowledgeable I paid the price to watch more. Good pitch brother and thank you for the great content I'm on my first build.
I just happen to come across your channel this morning, thankfully. I have seriously been looking at getting a Ruger Precision in 17 hmr. I’ve been researching scopes as well. I had no idea how precise you need to be to make all this work. Once I saw the how and why it was so obvious. Thank you so much. I’m a reasonably new shooter but I’m learning quickly as I am already changing out parts and improving my guns. This will be another extension of my knowledge with this new project. I will be looking at your courses for sure.
Glad you found us. You’ll get a lot out of our Long Range Course and it will ultimately save you time, money, lots of wasted rounds, and frustration. There a Long Range playlist on our channel. Lots of informative videos there to get you started. Thanks for watching! -Gary
this is a great video. i'm a 20yr retired Navy Gunners Mate with a specialty in small arms and special warfare small arms at that. i prefer using the Wheeler F.A.T. when installing scopes. less changing out of tools or parts, only adjusting of torque
This past weekend I mounted my strike Eagle 5-25 onto my bergara b14r. I used the wheeler leveling system you have there. I noticed the little reference bubble level was not equal. Meaning If i sit the level with the logo facing forward the bubble is in one position then turn the level 180 degrees with the logo facing rearward the bubble has moved with in the level to a different position. I checked it against a few different carpenters levels I have in my workshop and it showed it was off. I adjust the level myself til it was good. The wheeler is a great product but this is a heads up for those who own it and be sure the little reference bubble level is still good.
You are absolutely right and I should probably have mentioned that. You can however adjust the level with the two different screws on the level. I adjusted mine based on a machinist level that I have. Even after trying to calibrate it so it's the same on both sides, I know that for it to be accurate I need the side that says "wheeler" facing a certain direction. Good observation and great comment. Hopefully you subscribed and I look forward to seeing you in the comments often! -Gary
Congrats, you're the first person that I've seen talk about leveling the rifle muzzle to stock. Yes it is important, you cannot get an accurate cross level unless the rifle is level muzzle to stock. The slightest incline will give false readings across the pic rail unless you're lucky enough to hit it perfect. It takes out potential error. Nice video.
Thank you! This is exactly what I need. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience so a novice like me can do the right things for the right reasons. My father was a Green Beret (MSgt, 101st, 5th SFG, KIA VN, 1966) so your credibility is unimpeachable in my book. Your presentation is top-notch as well. Bravo Zulu. Sierra Hotel.
Question: As it seems the anti-cant device on the picatinny rail is plumb right away, why not mount that first, ensuring a plumb rail/barrel? Seems that could save the first few level on rail - barrel level steps (ie basically replacing the barrel level with the anti-cant device's level).
Thanks! And thanks for watching. I did just release an updated video on this with addition info that I think you’ll find interesting. Complete Guide To Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OG8CchRYlDw.html Thanks, Gary
Many times the turrets are not parallel with the reticle lines I use a machinists parallel rubber banded to the bottom of the scope turret block this allows you to set your level on the parallel. i have seen numerous scopes that look canted but the reticle is dead nuts on. go figure. thanks for the vid. i have been a Smith for 27 years now and have progressed to this method since starting to shoot F-Class about 10 years ago. You'd be surprised (maybe not) how many canted scopes we see daily.
If the turrets aren’t plumb to the reticle the answer isn’t to just make the reticle plumb, the scope should be sent back to manufacturer. That guarantees you’re dialing elevation into windage and vice versa. I address that myth or misunderstanding here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yDBmS5P08j0.html
Go Army! (Retired (E-7) so they tell me. Your method is outstanding, like a true Green Beret always teaching! As soon as my Sergeant Major (Wife) gives me approval I'm ordering! Great Video Gary and I salute you for you Service!
Gary, the only “problem” with the Wheeler levels is their lack of exactness. I have the same vice and levels that you used. The specific problem with the wheeler levels that I have is that the bubble is too small and there is no line in the very middle that would visually enable one to have greater confidence that the bubble is actually in the center. Or, if the bubble was bigger so that it would touch the two lines on the left and right of center then you would have greater confidence of the scope and rail being level with each other. With all that said, your video was excellent! On guns that will be used for long distance I still use a plumb bob AFTER I have mounted the scope to verify that it is level. I do this because I don’t trust the levels (or at least my aging eyes) to know (or trust) both levels are actually perfectly aligned. Further, it’s an issue of stacked tolerances. It you level the rail, and then establish another new level on the barrel with the first level, and then establish the scopes level with another level…. Well, you can understand, I hope, that stacked tolerances can come into play. I only mount a couple scopes a year and I am sure that I would have greater confidence with your experience in mounting so many scopes. So, with all my blather I hope you can see why I verify everything with a plum bob (gravity doesn’t lie, but my eyes might with the level). I mount my plumb bob in the depth of my garage (no wind) and then set my bench up at the end of my driveway, chuck the gun in my Tipton vice, and see if it tracks while adjusting the elevation. But, as I said, excellent video. I have it saved as a video to share with others on how to mount a scope. Also, it appreciate you mentioning VC-3. I have started using that in the past year after finding out about it from C&H precision while using their plates to mount my dots on my handguns. I have subscribed and shared this video and look forward to seeing more of your videos. Thanks.
I agree with everything you said. I think verifying with a plumb bob is great. I also certify by shooting a tall target and with the line of the tall target that is a straight line I either align using a plumb bob or a level held vertical that I verify with a plumb bob. I don’t have an issue with the precision of the Wheeler level but more than one has arrived way off. Luckily they are adjustable. I also use multiple levels because I have OCD. I think we’re saying the same thing as far as stacking tolerances or redundant verification. Thanks for watching and subscribing! I look forward to reading more of your thoughtful comments in the future! -Gary
@@paramounttactical - Those “multiple levels” that you mention are different brands? I was online searching and checking RU-vid (and found your video) for a better level to use because I have a scope I’m about to mount but was dissatisfied with the precision of the Wheeler (my OCD). Do you have any recommendations? The only other way I know of that seems to work 100% is with a Tough Tactical Tools Scope Leveler Combo for Rifle Scope. I found them several years ago when doing a similar search. They are a set of wedges that fit between the rail and the flat base of the scope and mechanically make the rail parallel to each other. Further, if you maintain pressure on them it mitigates the movement of the scope while tightening the rings. The only problem with them is that you must have enough clearance between the rail and the flat base under the turrets (not much but enough). For my current build I’m using low rings (0.850) with a scope with a 30mm tube which does not have enough space to use them. They almost will fit, but don’t. So, I’m stuck with the levels. If you have found other levels that have better quality at a reasonable price for someone who occasionally mounts I would love your suggestions. Thanks.
@@whliving I like the stabila pocket levels. If you get one that reads the same when you turn it 180 degrees it’s going to be more than accurate enough. I have a few other levels that I check smaller levels with. I have a $200+ machinist level and 2 others guaranteed within like .0001 degree or something ridiculous. I did have 2 stabila levels I sent back because they didn’t read the same when turned 180 degrees.
I bought a digital level it is very accurate, it has helped me mount many scopes, I use it to also first basically get the rifle barrel level front to back then the scope, works like a charm
RU-vid is awesome. The plethora of information is great. Weeding thru the bad info has its issues but this video isn't one of those. I appreciate the free information given where decades ago you'd have to pay for something like this.
Omg this was PERFECT! I'm still rather new to firearms but it's becoming an overwhelming addiction, "in a good way". I finally was able to get my HQL here in Western Maryland so I could finally and legally own a pistol for home defense. Before owning my new Walther PDP I was using a Ruger AR 556 16" 1-8 twist rifle with a compact holosun red dot for home defense. Now that I have the pistol I wanted to turn my AR into a medium - long range firearm and picked up a primary arms 1x-8x LPVO. I've never put a scope on a rifle before and was nervous as hell and apprehensive to start because the last thing I want to do is screw anything up or mount it in a way that may conflict with effectively using the scope in conjunction with the rifle. This video was absolutely perfect! Thank you so much! I'm now in the process of trying to save up for one of your in person classes and can't wait to actually take part of your legendary training!
This video is the most informative that I've ever seen on scope mounting. As an old Australian Soldier I still love to go to the range. I served 26 years but was never a sniper, but love shooting long range out to 1000m. So what I thought about mounting my scopes will now go into file 13, or the Olly North Fax. Cant wait to do it properly and save some money on ammo. Cheers Mate 🍻
I just released an updated version with more info. Complete Guide To Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OG8CchRYlDw.html Thanks for watching! -Gary
Thank you for the great content. I found the tutorial and recommended products very helpful. I’m just getting into marksmanship after many years and really wanted to up my scope knowledge. Thanks again
Thanks for watching. Definitely join us on Wednesdays at 7pm EST for our Live Dangerous Liberty podcast. Besides covering a wide range of topics and having on special guests you can ask questions live. Thanks, Gary
Excellent video! I've mounted quite a few scopes over the years, and had to learn on my own what you have carefully and clearly demonstrated in this video. I use the Wheeler tools, as well, and confirm on a plumb line when I'm all buttoned up. One thing I like to do as I'm slowly tightening the cap screws down, is incrementally increase the torque setting on my Wheeler driver as I go. I typically start around 3-5 in-lbf and increase by about 5 in-lbf on each pass through all the screws. I've found that it gives me more confidence vs. feeling the torque as I progress through the screw tightening procedure. I wrench on all my guns and cars, so I have a pretty good feel for fastener tightness, but it's always worth using the calibrated tools for me! I have also used feeler gauges on the cap gaps to make sure I'm not binding those screws on that first pass. Not necessary, but it makes for a very nicely finished result, especially on other folks' rifles. Awesome video!
All that sounds perfect. When your finished look at the plumb bob while aiming as you naturally would... at distance. If you line up you are good, but if you naturally cant your gun you'll be off. If you place a couple rubber bands around the scope and gun ... you can back out the screws and adj the scope with tension. Then re-tighten. That customizes your scope to you.
Very informative - excellent job. I must point out tho - not everyone can afford the high dollar ( different for everyone ) base mounts & rings. I have done a few scopes. I had a machinist friend make me 2 one inch diameter billet alum. shafts about 4 inches long. Each one is machined down to a point on one end. I place those in each ring. Which tells me how far off the rings or base is out of alignment. Then one would need to lap them in. BUT - one must also use care & have some COMMON sense when doing this. Because one can mess things up in hurry if they are mindful of details. Other than that - excellent detail & explanation !!!!
My personal opinion as a 25 year veteran (55 y/o) who worked with SOC South in multiple missions, this is by far the best instructional video I’ve ever seen. Gary is a true professional, thank you for putting out great useful information.
Hey brother, thank you for that endorsement. It means a lot. I appreciate you watching and your support. Join us for our Livestream podcast tonight at 7pm EST. DOL -Gary
If you're retarded and shoot 20 rds twice a year at 300yds, then yes. If you shoot long distances over 1000, this is akin to a 12 year old giving life advice. This is how beginners learn to do it..later you find out about things like coriolis and other aspects of LR and realize this is the retarded way of doing it and why your .5 mil left firing solution missed the target completely at 1400yds. Go learn about an ancient, incredible tool called a plumb bob and go from there.
What does working with SOC have to do with the opinion? Everyone has worked with SOC because SOC/JSOC is everywhere. Even a cook would could say they worked with SOC.
@@NSWvet83agreed… I have met at least 5000 Seals that served in Vietnam. 😂 Also this instructor could have easily mounted the rifle better in the rifle vise so it wouldn’t move and use the leveling feet on the vise to level it. And he said he doesn’t us the plum bob because it is difficult for him to keep it level looking through. You don’t look through the scope, you shine a light through it to show the reticle on the wall where the plum bob is mounted. Not all turret caps are level to the reticle.
Bought a bundle. It was super easy to add the items that I didn't already have. Thanks! Hoping to get my Ruger Precision rifle and scope going in our club competitions soon. Recommending to anyone who will sit still and listen to me for a minute (i.e., all the other old guys at our club! ) :)
Thank you for this video. I so happen to have all the same tools minus the rifle cradle. My vise worked just fine. Yes, I did level my rifle before installing. You made something I was a little anxious about doing and made it easy and achievable.
Just to mention, the flashlight/plumb bob method is still a very viable way to check your work, especially when using cheaper scopes. Sometimes the reticle and scope body are not perfectly in line and can need adjustment to level the reticle properly. Also the tops of scopes are rarely completely level and can also be checked using the flashlight/plumb bob method, but I wouldn't use that method to begin with but rather as a check and balance.
You’re absolutely right. They both work. It’s just been my experience that they both introduce too many variables. Both methods are difficult to do correctly and yield wildly inconsistent results. How do you get your gun locked down and confirm level while tracking a plumb bob at a decent distance and then attach rings and tighten screws while ensuring your gun maintained level? (That’s rhetorical) The flashlight method presents similar questions. Then… how do you confirm? Have you actually done a tracking test or tall target test? Your reticle can be decently off but you could still engage targets at distance and simply mistaken a missed shot due to reticle cant for a wind call. You can get the bullet to the target eventually but it just takes more dialing or hold offs than it should. My entire point is that based on actual testing, the method I outline reduces variance. I disagree with you on scope caps though. Basic modern machining, even CNC used by cheap scope manufacturers can easily achieve flat surfaces with a .001 tolerance. I’m sure there are exceptions. I love taking gun nerd stuff and your points are 100% valid. I always enjoy any good faith discussion or debate! I appreciate you watching and hope to see you in the comments often! Sincerely, Gary
@@paramounttactical thanks for explaining your reasoning, Gary. I have started using a construction laser level that shoots an X and Y axis in place of the plumb bob. I level the rifle using the same gun vise and levels you use, then I shoot the laser (on a tripod) at a wall. I adjust the tripod height and position to match the scope reticle closely and then I fine tune the reticle position and tighten the screws. It has worked great so far. I already had the laser from my job. They can be had for well under $100 at big box stores. Thanks for the great content, Jason.
Thank you for your time and service. I am not a 20 year Veteran, but have a heavy mechanical engineering background, installed quite a few scopes, watched even more youtube videos, and aggregated good methods and discarded bad methods from every one of them; so the details may be overkill, but still considerations. With the bubble level you put on the scope rail in your initial setup, rotate it 180 degrees and check again. Take the average position of the two orientations as the true reading. Spirit levels are always "self calibrating" if you check in both orientations. Then set your barrel level using the average. The barrel level does not need to be checked in both directions, since you are only using this to see if you have moved your setup at any time. It is not critical that the barrel level is level, just that you have a reference to check that you know keeps the rifle level. Obviously, the bubble between the two lines is the easiest to keep track of. Regarding lapping: you could have two perfectly round rings, but are the ring holes perfectly perpendicular to the surface that mounts to the Picatinny rail? Are both the same height from the surface that sits on the rail. When you tighten them to the rail, they may lift off the rail since the dovetail of the clamp finds a different home position based on where the "V" in the clamp is. Ideally the rings get pulled down to the rail when tightening, but can this be guaranteed? Is the rail perfectly straight? Many factors other then just the roundness of the rings come in to play to determine if lapping is important. Spending more money on the rings does not guarantee that you should not lap the rings. Scopes with thin walls on the tube are at more of a disadvantage, but stresses can be put on the scope if the two rings are not perfectly concentric. Also, if you are using one rifle as a jig to mount the scope in the rings and then transferring that setup to another rifle, lapping is not going to help. Once the lapping is done, the rings should not be moved from their mount. The Wheeler conical scope alignment tools are not the correct tool for checking concentricity. Rings could be be twisted relative to one another and the points will still touch. The alignment gauge that has two round bars with a sliding ring is the right tool to see how aligned the two rings are. Fully tighten the rings to be base before checking anything. The main goal of the process is to make sure the vertical axis of the reticle runs through the center of the bore. Level, or perpendicular to gravity, is only a tool used to try to achieve this. Level is not the important final outcome, but should happen anyway as a result of getting the vertical axis inline with the center of the bore. The axis of the scope ideally wants to be referenced to the bore of the barrel, but this is difficult to do. We are taking a lot of assumptions about how the barrel is aligned with the receiver and the scope rail, but without some tools I have not discovered, the two level method, is the way to do it. By placing the bubble level on the turret cap, we are assuming that the top surface of the turret cap is perpendicular to the vertical axis of the reticle. Not necessarily a wrong assumption, just stating what the measurement is checking. This is why the plumb bob technique came in, but as you mentioned, it is hard to do in a shop, and hard to keep the gun level while at the same time aligning the reticle to a string. Scopes with short distance parallax settings could possibly use the plumb bob technique down a long hallway. If you do want to check just the reticle to turret cap alignment, this can be done in isolation. Take the scope outside with a plumb-bob set up at a distance. Align the vertical reticle to the string and put a spirit level on the turret cap. If everything is good, then you have more confidence. Checking to the flat on the base of the scope only ensures that the turret cap is parallel to that flat, but not referencing the reticle at all. Sorry to be a keyboard operator, but this comes near the end of a lot of research and thoughts on the subject.
Lot there. Most of it incorrect to some extent. 1) I cover the 180 rule of checking bubble levels in multiple videos. 2) Lapping: no serious shooter today laps rings and hasn’t for a decade. You may be an engineer but there are full time engineers that do nothing but make/design rings and mounts full time (many I’ve had in depth conversations with). Why would a $50 lapping bar do anything to improve a $400 mount/rings made in a multimillion dollar CNC facility? There may be alignment issues due to rail/action imperfections but a lapping bar isn’t the answer. Lapping modern, quality rings voids your warranty, does more harm than good, and likely reduces surface area of ring/optic contact. Scope mounting is not a task in of itself, it’s a process to confirm 3 performance points: 1) Optic is mounted plumb to the rifle or the scope base of it includes elevation e.g. 20 MOA rail. 2) The scope tracks properly 3) The reticle is plumb inside the optic The ONLY way to confirm ALL THREE of these critical performance points is by shooting a tall target test, which I do on every optic I mount for my guns or for clients that request that service. So I have confirmed and proven my methods with quantifiable results. Arguments over methodology, or lapping… or whatever are purely academic and a waste of time, especially when one party hasn’t ever proven their methods or done any quantifiable testing themselves. And no, hitting a target at X distance isn’t proof of anything. Do you know how many hundreds of these conversations I’ve had in the comments by guys like you that are so confident about what they’re saying and yet have never shot a tall target test? If that’s you, you’re operating on theory and hope. You hope you’ve chosen the best method, you hope you didn’t make a mistake through that process, you hope everything you’re working with is mechanically flawless. Many of those guys were honest enough yo admit it and then go shoot a tall target test and realize their scopes were not plumb, or they leveled the optic using the reticle which is very prone to not being plumb inside the optic. There’s hundreds of variable involved with scope mounting which is why verification is more important than methodology. Regardless of hardware used or how great the methodology there’s ample opportunity for human and mechanical error to produce less than optimal results. Until you confirm your theories and/or work with some quantifiable testing methodology then it’s just theories. I test and prove everything. Some of your other comments I address in the three videos linked below. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OG8CchRYlDw.htmlsi=BEqIdHZE8pmX6ziT ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gsiZKRKnkb0.htmlsi=fpEpPOL9U7NsClKj ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yDBmS5P08j0.htmlsi=Ins6fyWHmzOyiaXq
@@paramounttactical Thank you for the reply. I did not think I was being that contradictory, but when we read and type text, we have a tone in our mind that may not be how the other person interprets, and I subscribed and liked and started browsing your store, so I don't think I am in disagreement on much. I am sure you get plenty of comments. If there was over confidence in my comment, it was not intended. I did open with "I watched a lot of RU-vid videos", so take that as the level of confidence. This was a brain dump of things I have picked up and I am not really a youtube commenter historically. As you mention in your opening, you appreciate open dialog and conversation without hostility and I believe I was agreeing with just about everything, or supplementing, except for maybe the need for lapping, and possibly trying to continue that conversation for another consideration since I think this video and your longer form versions are the most comprehensive I have seen. Also, I did comment on this video before I found some of your newer, more detailed videos, so I see that some of it is covered elsewhere. There is no doubt that a company can make a ring with a very round hole and the tolerances of the rings can be very good. If you are mounting to a fixed rail that is machined to the receiver like in your demonstrations, than it is probably not an issue. For completeness, I was just considering the case where the rail or scope ring base is a separate piece. How well machined is that? Who installed the rail or bases to the receiver and how well are they aligned. In the end, the multiple pieces in the assembly can all get misaligned. If the scope has a fairly thick tube on it and you keep the torque to a minimum, there still may not be an issue. If you have a thin wall, lightweight scope, you may distort or damage the optics, and it may not be immediate. I think my comment on this is in the confidence in the alignment of the two rings, without checking it. I just think the alignment should be verified before clamping the scope. Maybe lapping isn't the answer, but I think checking first is needed. Just like verifying the final mounting with the target tests, or checking to see if the reticle is in line with the turret adjustments (and sending the scope back if it is not), it is something to consider verifying the ring alignment to see if you are putting too many stresses on the tube. Feel free to delete my comments if you think they will lead readers down the wrong path.
I've watched numerous videos on scope mounting, but yours is by far the best I've watched. You are a great teacher and communicator. I feel like I can mount my next scope with much more assurance that I will be doing it correctly and with more confidence. Thank You. I have subscribed to your channel.
I’m glad you found it helpful. Thank you for the kind words and subscribing. Make sure you join us for our live Dangerous Liberty podcast every Wednesday at 7pm ET here on RU-vid and Rumble.
When I mount scopes and bases I use my Wheeler scope mounting kit. I use the lapping bars to be sure the bases are straight when snugging them down. This of course happens after the eye relief and things have been addressed. I then lap the rings to be sure they are true. then I mount and level the scope. I just mounted 3 Vortex scopes with one piece bases and all 3 showed signs of not being 100% true. Maybe that isn't a deal breaker for some guys, but I think it illuminates the chance of distortion on the scope tube. It's an easy step to do when going through the process. I 100% agree with everything you showed for the rest of the process. Really liked your gun vise. I don't suppose having another one would hurt anything. I have a Midway USA one I really like for bolt guns and a Tipton I use with AR platforms. This one seems to be the best of both worlds! Thanks, for sharing.
By for the best video and step by step instructions I've ever seen on mounting a scope on a rifle. But I've only owned scope mounted rifles since 1977.
Thank you. I appreciate that. Thank you for watching and hopefully you tube into our live podcast every Wednesday at 7pm ET here on our RU-vid channel and Rumble. -Gary
Very well done, you verified many things I currently do now, learning them the hard way, plus A few tips I will add to my scope mounting regimen. Your video is the most comprehensive vid on this subject I have seen so far. Thanks!
I have found that cheap mounts ( Scope rings won't hold zero ) I use 5 levels but I did learn about the adhesive and the leveling clamp so I did learn something from this. Thank you.
I just adjusted the scope (Nikon Monarch) on my Ruger American .308. Previously I had just "eyeballed" it (good enough for hogs within 100yds), but with deer season coming up I wanted to make sure it was dialed in. I set up my shooting table with a high quality Stabila 4ft level shimmed up to level across it. I rested the flat bottom of my Magpul Hunter stock across the level to get the rifle level side to side. I then leveled the rifle front to back by supporting the buttstock on a shooting bag and checking it with a small level set on the scope turret. Then, carefully checking to maintain level in both directions at all times, I used the plumb bob method to set the vertical axis of my reticle. I set up a Bosch laser level intersecting my plumb line to check that the horizontal axis of the reticle was also set, meaning that the crosshairs were plumb and level with the level supporting the stock... again, this is possible with the Magpul stock due to its flat bottomed forend. This took a lot of finesse and time. There could be some variables in there (like maybe my flat bottom on my stock forend is not perfectly parallel to my pic rail) but it seems like I accounted for as many variables as possible using good gear, good levels and gravity. The method you use here is also awesome- one question: would you not be able to just use the pic mount level that you showed at the end to check level as you work if you installed it first? It seems like that would save some time... or does it not sit perfectly horizontal with the pic rail? thanks
Excellent work ! It is the same method of what I did to all my scopes . But i also used plum Bob and flash light method to check on my work if the vertical line of the scope is not line up with the other ... i then returned the item back to the manufacturer!
Thank you for the tutorial on mounting my scope...correctly! Ordered the Wheeler Engineering Reticle Leveling System, The Tipton Ultra Gun Vise & Fiber vc3 thread locker today...WOWZA! They seem to be A1 products! (Sorry, had to use Amazon to purchase these items, as the C.O., otherwise known as my wife, said so! Can't disobey a direct order from her!) Keep up the great videos.
Another tip for people, spuhr did some testing and found that a drop will almost always move the mount on the pic rail a little changing zero, but if the rail has a thin coat of oil put on it it reduces that happening almost completely. Oil your rail before install!
@@paramounttacticalit was some group on Facebook I was reading his posts about his testing can’t remember which but I’ll see if I can’t find it for you
Thanks so much for making this video. For me, a noob but just starting the SDI gunsmithing cert program, it was easy to understand. I did everything as instructed except I way overdid the Vibratite on the screws and it looks… well, messy. But the outcome seems to be successful. I’ll know for sure in a couple days when I take it to the range to zero.
Thank you for the video. I use the same level system and have the same FixIt Sticks kit. I don’t have the gun vice. I put my guns on a vortex tripod so that I can get the correct eye relief. Again, thank you for the video. It confirms that I am doing it the right way.
Wow this method is a lot more simple then mine!! how ever mine is with a long drafters ruler to exaggerate any miss aligning home lines and the scope it's self.. amazingly checked it with a level like you showed on the receiver picatinny and elevation turret and both showed to be exactly perfect! thank you!! mine might work but it is overly complicated and not re assuring of perfection!!! going to do this for now on!! sooo much easier!!!
Thanks and here’s an updated video with a little more in-depth info. Complete Guide To Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OG8CchRYlDw.html Be sure to watch part II tall target test for verification. Thanks for watching! -Gary
I use my LRA send it mounted to my pic rail, a digital level and spirit levels. I set for proper eye relief and constantly check rifle / scope level. I put my rifle in a 1 piece gun rest and tighten it down, when finished I use a plum bob looking thru the scope to verify the reticle is vertical. The easiest rings I have used mounting are the arc m10, there is practically no shift when torquing the rings with an inch lb wrench
I just released an update which I think you’ll find even better and more informative. Complete Guide To Precision Scope Mounting - Part 1 of 2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OG8CchRYlDw.html
That bundle is actually a great deal been looking into to getting a new bolt action and I’ll definitely be buying this kit to help make my scope mounting more efficient and guaranteed
