I was leary of Sharkbite® fittings at first. When I replaced my water heater I had problems soldering one of the joints so it wouldn't leak. After 4 hours of messing with it I gave up and just used a flexible hose that threaded to the water heater and pushed onto the short stub from the wall. It's been at least 8 years now. When I needed to replace the outside main water valve it be was in a manifold and I could only reach one joint to solder it so I didn't think twice about and bought a Sharkbite® valve instead. It's been outside in the sun for 6 years or so with no leaks.
I would have probably cut an upside down U on the backside, then the sleeve could have been slid down from the top making it easier to attach the bottom fitting. Good video.
Very cool idea bro. But people use spigot/faucet with a 1/4 turn handle so it’s easy to turn on and off and you don’t have to sit there turning it on and off. Always try to up the size of opening in back-so if your water line is 1/2 get a spigot with 3/4 fitting on back and reduce it down to 1/2-it will give you a little more water at the hose-do this same thing with sprinkler valves. If your pipes for sprinkler are 3/4 then get a 1 inch sprinkler valve and reduce down to a 3/4. Things like this are friction zones that slow water down so if you make the friction zone bigger it makes it flow a little better.
My spigot is maybe 6in above ground at the front of the house and is a pain getting hose on and off. Previous owners put an auxiliary spigot at the back of the house and the back of the yard. It has a connector hose to the rear spigot (not plumbed) which has a Tee to go the remote spigot. Another pricier option is something called aquapor. It mounts flush to the house; you plug and adapter in whenever you want to use the water. Very clean install.
I don't want to rip on this too much, but it's literally a video on everything NOT to do. Should have fed the blue pex through the hole and already had it attached to the spigot, that foam and entire outside arrangement will not stop the line from freezing if you're in an area that has winters like the Northeastern part of the country. Just so many better way to move the line if that was the purpose. Guy has a good attitude, but I would not do this.
interesting idea if you can shut it off and drain it in winter inside the house that would freeze anyplace cold in winter since there is no heat from house getting out into it. I think the insulation is kinda useless you could just put in a tee to a bare vertical pipe with and ball drain valve on bottom and ball valve on top then in winter shut it off inside and open drain and top valve let all water out.
Good job, but i have to ask, why use those outdated antiquated spin forever water valves, when you can use a 1/4 turn ball Valve. I've replaced all of mine and have Zero Regrets. Excellent work. Thanks for sharing.
You did an awesome job! I really enjoy watching all your videos as I learn so much. You give great tips and tricks. Running into problems and how to resolve them. Thank you for sharing. Keep going! 🤗🤗👍🏻👍🏻
I did the same EXCEPT my house is plumbed with 1" PVC so that made the plumbing easier AND I am sick to death of not having a free spigot available SO I put 3 faucets on my 1" riser pipe. 1-my 100ft lawn watering hose 1-my 6ft hose I wash cars or rinse or whatever 1-always free to wash hands or fill a bucket with. I call these my WATER TOWERs they are 48" tall. I have one off my garage & one back of my house. I would also like to put one off my Rv shed but thats 100 - 150ft away, but, I am thinking about it. !
Bro why spray foam? That crap absorbs moisture and you just made an awesome home for mice with access into your home once they go through that little bit of pvc.
You could’ve done the same thing with a garden hose without cutting out the old spigot just attach the hose to spigot cut hose to size running it up the sleeve and attach it to new spigot 🤓
