What I meant by a "small adjustment" is making sure that the bottom plate is seated completely and evenly; also that the cut marks on the plate line up exactly with those on the casing. For proper seating, I firmly press with my fingers evenly all around the circumference of the plate. Also, as you screw on the bottom cover, the cover will help push the bottom plate into place. So it is importance to screw on the bottom cover firmly, even if you back it off a hair at the end.
The F and Eb trumpet of the 19th century played in the same range as the modern Bb and C trumpets, in spite of their longer tube length. They played in the upper partials, like a French horn, and they were fingured that way. A C scale from written middle C: 0-1-0-1-0-1/2-2-0,
The mouthpiece was much like a modern trumpet mouthpiece. On the demo recording I used a mouthpiece with deep elliptical cup. But the shank is the same as a modern trumpet mouthpiece shank, and I use the same mouthpiece on a modern Bb rotary valve trumpet.
could you please enclose a pic of the MP. I had an old Eb fanfare MP bought in Munich with a cornet. It had a sharp turnover from the kettle to the "bore". I have on my WenzlMeinl rotary C valvetrombone a similar but bigger MP. The valves are conical, press fittings like on your trumpet and clockwork encapsulated springs.
No the valves are not conical. I play a demonstration of this trumpet in a video on my channel (jwhill7) called "F trumpet demo." In the video, this is "trumpet number 1." I have two long Eb trumpets from the same era and several short-form F trumpets that I plan to offer on eBay.
If anyone here would help me, I'd really appreciate it! I have a Lidl rotary valve alto trumpet which I love to play. Unfortunately, I broke a valve spring. I can't find a replacement spring. If anyone knows where I can get a replacement flat spring for one of these trumpets, please reply. Thanks!!!
The Brass and Woodwind Shop has a YT video, How to Replace Internal Springs on a Rotary Trumpet. They got new flat coiled springs from The Clock Works in Schenectady, NY.
+Eli Gutierrez You might need to use a somewhat lighter oil, such as a commercial preparation specially designated for rotary valves. Those oils come in various weights. The basic principle is that you should use the heaviest oil that does not slow down the valve action. Except for really modern instruments, rotary valves traditionally relied on the oil to complete the air seal, because the rotors did not actually touch or rub against the cylinder walls. If 3-in-1 slows down your valves, then try a regular rotary valve oil.
