Thank you SO MUCH for this. I had previously tried slicing as close to the card as possible, but using the blade underneath the plastic is brilliant, I went slow like you suggested, and it worked so much better than I could have expected. Thank you!
That's a really great way to open TVC figures. I've been cutting slits at the bottom on the corners and then pulling the figure out of the bottom. It works but I like the way you did it quite a bit better. The R2 you repackaged looks great. I'm definitely going to try that. Thanks for the video.
If you go to the back of the card you can see where the bubble is glued, well if you get a bottle of nail polish remover dip a small paint brush in and paint the area on the back of the bubble and let it soak through to the glue and you can just pull the bubble off, then let the card dry and you can reattach it with no problem.
Thank you 🙏 I took my greedo, which is my very first figure I bought as a kid and put him in the saga collection card back of him! Now my first figure is back on card , means so much to me . Personal HOLY GRAIL 🙏thanks again
I use a hair dryer on its lowest warm setting, so as not to distort the plastic, rotating it around, also warming the cardboard from the back. Once tbe glue is sufficiently melted, the plastic bubble seperates cleanly with no damage to the card back or the bubble. No ink gets damaged or stuck to the plastic either. This technique also works for removing price labels and stickers from almost anything. Especially on things like card backs when they have been plastered in reduced price stickers, dvd/game cases etc. Just dont have the hair dryer on too hot.
I always score the edge of the bubble lip first, this eliminates the risk of any damage to the card back. But like you say you really need to be careful on those corners.
Nicely executed tim👌 only difference I do is use a fillet knife and put the card on the corner of the table and work around the left hand edge of the card , gives you more room to work on the other side over the edge of the table with no card in your way , loctite serious glue on the bubble edge is great for resticking the bubble as it's clear and gives you a few hrs to move it slightly before it sets if your not happy , far superior to paper glue . A vintage gamorrean would look sweet in that fresh clean bubble and minty card 😊
I'm so glad I found this video! I pre ordered the retro Spider-Man figure that comes out in September and plan to take it out of the packaging but want to keep the card.
@@BossksBounty It's the TIE Fighter Pilot. I just wanted to replace it with a different version of the TIE Pilot inside. This way I get to have the figure in the bubble and still have a cool carded figure to display on my wall.
Nice, that is how I do it. But I was looking to see how to apply this method to the Marvel Legends Retro Spiderman line. What they have done is glue the bubble then fixed the top card over the ends of the bubble. I guess you will have to use the exacto knife method.
Got my razor ordered today! Pumped. But I had mentioned a u wing and I was looking at the razor and it actually has the exact same reasons why I liked a u wing . Multiple cockpit and a cargo/troop hold but a much better ship! Sweet best of both..lol let’s get some more unlocks!!!
Helping technique. Why haven't toy companies figured out a cost effective way to make packaging that protects and prevents product loss (in transit, storage, or on display), while also allowing for product removal by the buyer without damaging the packaging or the product?
Well done, but I’m an Opener/Keeper. Sure it doubles my expense buying two of everything, but I enjoy the experience of both opening and displaying my figures as well as keeping one minty fresh in a star case or FigureShield. I don’t think I’d ever have the need to recard or replace a figure. But I can see why some would do that as part of the hobby. Cheers!
@Bossk's Bounty - actually, I keep all my opened packaging and original boxes too. If there’s one thing that history has taught us, it’s that original packaging is often times worth more than the item itself when it becomes a collectible decades down the road. So I have bins of old Star Wars boxes and cardbacks that once held the figures and vehicles on my shelves.
Nice tutorial! I don't keep my TVC figures carded, but I do keep and collect the Vintage Cards once I remove the figure. I usually slice the bubble at the bottom so that it can be removed cleanly, but of course the edge of the bubble is still left on the card. I had a thought that the whole bubble could be removed cleanly (including the bottom edge) with lighter fluid to remove the adhesive, but leave the card intact. Haven't tried it yet, but could be a way to go. As for re gluing bubbles, I recently re-carded a original Kenner Card and bubble (don't tell anyone!!! LOL) using UHU glue applied sparingly with a toothpick. Turned out great!
(From the front) go though the bottom and cut left and then go upwards to minimize damage and if you do damage the card you’ll only damage the black edge of the card. I did this with my first TVC fig (dark times Vader).
I really wish Hasbro would start expanding the monochrome "background" behind the figure to include the area behind the flat glued part of the bubble so that you can remove the bubble entirely and not damage any of the artwork.
Old restoration trick lighter fluid should loosen that adhesive around the box depending one the type of glue acetone is also a option (with no damage to the box)
I've seen people use a paint brush & dab acetone or nail polish remover on the back of the card, let it sit for a few minutes, & then slip the plastic bubble right off. Not sure how well it works in person though...
Great video! I'm still in two minds about how I'm going to open my TVC figures. I definitely want to keep the card backs, but I don't really have a need for the bubble as I'll be taking the figures out for display etc. Like you said though, perhaps cutting around the bubble and just leaving the "stuck-down" part will work for me.
I also want to do that and save the cards and put them in a protective sleeve, but i can't really find any tips, tricks or any vids of what is the best way to do this. I have a hobby knife, but the two cards (armybuilders) i have tried the bubble came off very roughly, leaving a lot of it on the card which kinda sucks.
@@DMSL2007 I tried this out the other day, and it worked quite well - I took the hobby knife, and cut into it the same way that Tim does in this video, except I cut all the way around the bubble. The only way to leave the card intact, is to keep the glued down part of the bubble on there. Hope that helps!
Keeping the plastic bubble takes space. I prefer to keep the card, not the bubble. So I cut in a way that the card is not touched at all. Keeping the bubble damaged the card, as a portionm of the card is attached to the bubble. General rule of thumb to open or not open your figures. * If you buy to sell later, do not open it. * If you like the box, keep it. * If you want to display, not to sell it later, open it. * If you do not have space or proper place to display, do not open until you have space.
Cool, need to re seal a WWE Kane hasbro style figure, it’s been boxed but fell off the side earlier and plastic came clean off the card n figure on the ground, hoping I choose the right glue
I’ve opened a few VC figures this way (having seen OnlyOneKenobi do it as well) and it works great. One question though - is there any reason why you don’t cut in the other direction so the glued side is the left hand of the bubble and the picture side isn’t disturbed? I found it interesting that both yourself and OOK go in the same (picture) direction which is presumably the side we would least want to disturb? Just a thought. Fantastic clean R2 reseal by the way! Wow!
I have found when because there isn't a huge amount of room between the bubble and the end of the card that it ripped more easily. Plus I am right handed so it just felt more natural to round that way.
Is there any way to remove the plastic completely from the card, maybe by heating up the glue some how between the card and the plastic shell therefore have a card completely mark free or just cut around as close as you can to the card?
not that I know of. I think the glue will always tear the card at some point. Some people use a stanley blade to cut the bubble off, leaving just the flat part.
Hey Tim, that was fantastic. In a reply to another comment you asked, "Are you wondering which R2 I used?" Well I am wondering. Can you tell us, pretty please?
sure thing mate, i used the R2 from the last jedi 5poa card, he was also repacked in the galaxy of adventures tubes. Its exactly the same figure minus the weathering
Well, shit. Those Galaxy Of Adventures are getting scarce at my local Walmarts. I never picked up the R2. D'OH! I'm sure I can track one down though. I'm going to do exactly what you did, but with a filet knife as mentioned in a previous comment. Your swap-out looks amazing. Why they went with the dirty R2 on a clean R2 card... Maybe they were trying not to give us the same figure that was just $10 in the tube? And "fancy it up" with more paint? That's my theory now that you let me in on the previous release anyway.
@@Shakes_The_Clone It's the same figure as the 2012 Naboo Royal Starship Droids, except that one had far better paint. Of course, the blue color is the prequel light color, but it's a much nicer looking figure. Harder to come by, though.
Most impressive. But if I'm going to attempt this, I will definitely do it by cutting around on the other side so (as Nathan pointed out) a mistake won't damage the character photo.
The problem with going around the other way is that the bubble often goes right to the edge so you end up with a thiner piece of cardboard as you are effectively lifting off the top layer.
Wrong in what way? Mint in box collectors will be able to spot a reseal. This is more for people who like to keep their packaging intact or perhaps use it for a custom figure etc.
I did the same thing in 1980 with my original Empire figures when I was 14....I thought I was being smart...Who would have known that they'd be worth so much then? Still have the original cards, and I've been able to get others to replace them, but still looking for a Luke Bespin...
I’m nervous about making this purchase coming up and trying to find any info on how to spot a reseal ? Could I please ask you have you heard of people resealing TVC original 2010-2012 products ?
Oh...um, u can do it without harming the card back at all hardly. There’ll always be some “haze” on the gluey rectangle, but it won’t rip ANY of the cardboard picture! You use: Blow dryer on high n medium in intervals. Start with high setting from the back of pack ; cuz you’ll warp n shrink the bubble! Eventually the bubble will start self-peeling. Well, not that easy really, not usually anyways. Older ones will just pop off, or newer ones with crappy glue jobs or crappy glue by manufacturer. Either 2 things will happen: (A) the cardback paper will come off with bubble, or, (B) plastic bubble will start to wrinkle n shrink in itself. (b) u need to turn dryer down to medium or low. (A) u will need turpentine or “sticky B gone” type brand , Goo remover . Or u can use other varnish remover. Use a q tip n dab with remover of ur choice... n start smoothing onto ( and into, if stubborn) area between bubble n cardback. It should dissolve paper off of bubble, but NOT melt or discolor it. But u have to be precise!! So be very delicate! I pretend I’m doing surgery ( which I do perform at times...no, I’m not a dr......lol....Mortician) u need to use varying degrees of heat and remover. Let it sit sometimes too between applications. U can also heat from face too if bubble is being stubborn. Just have to b careful not to warp bubble ! Some goo/glue the companies use can be neutralized from the freezer too! But u have to use in conjunction with remover....or it will just pop off bubble with some or all of cardback in the gluey strip. So if heat n remover (s) don’t work , use remover around bubble wall, and freeze. Then keep prying up bit by bit: heat , remover, pull, freeze, Etc etc. or whatever combo works best for said toy at the time?! I’ve gotten so frustrated by taking forever on a TF, only to have last inch tear or pull up paper! Or I’ve gotten board n gambled n just lifted up quick ! Those don’t work...so If u have 150 VC packs to open...lol, use Bossks method! If u have more pricey or interesting cardbacks....use my method. My style won’t always work perfectly either. But u can lift off hole bubble w/o tears or total brown rectangle around your cardback. I keep all my TF PotP loose in poses on shelves , with packs behind them. If I ever have to sell exclusives off, I can reseal with glue gun. Not honest if u sell “NIB” though! But u can still sell honestly with (used/opened, but perfectly resealed). I have GI JOE guys n Jakks Nintendo guys I buy like that from some ppl....they look like they came off Walmart pegs. But...my method will be frustrating as hell at first...so try it on any package, or one u open amyways . 1/10 hairdryer alone will pop it off clean . I didn’t know bossks method tho! Common sense, but I never thought of it. I came up with hairdryer myself m but others recommended acetone. But I One upped that with - Goo B Gone; which is oily tacky killer. But they don’t like paper/cardboard stock either....there lies the problem n work!
Cool quality video but you damaged the card anyways... I usually sacrifice the bubble and cut it with a razor blade sliding out plastic cage containing the figure from the bottom without damaging the card.. its either or... wish they all cAme in black series style concepts to allow us collectors to repackage them =[
Hardly. 1. There are loads of videos of how to do this. 2. Looking closely you can tell if a card has been resealed. this is just the best way for collectors. I am sure there are scammers out their that do a far better job than little old me armed with some Pritt Stick.
yes very smart lol i dont recommend this to any one unless you dont mind loosing sale ability and value and you will know that its damaged stupid advice from/to collectors i would not like buying one from you ,and avoid super glue like the plague it kills clear plastics and prit stick is for paper not card and plastic and can make a mess ,,, dude what was you thinking
Where do I say anything about value? Selling? This is to open an recard for my own collection. Also, the plastic has part of the paper/image /card from where it’s been lifted. So in fact gluing paper to paper and has worked wonderfully. I now have a clean R2 on that card back. I don’t see what the issue is??