I get some of your comments that I was a cowboy and did not know what I was doing. Here is a second, proper attempt of undoing the PCV valve cap without breaking a single plastic bit: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-imxmg9z0rn4.html
My Peugeot 3008 (2013) is having the similar issue recently - engine rattles in the morning with central display showing "engine fault", white fume coming out from the exhaust for a few seconds upon cold start, turbine continues to run for minutes after engine is promptly switched off. The engine goes back to normal after running for a minute or so. The mechanic told me it's the leak of engine oil somewhere on the crankshaft or camshaft. My mileage is also very poor at 7km per litre, and I just burnt all engine oil after only 4000km of travel. I suspect it could also be the PCV valve issue, but after watching your helpful video I learnt that the valve is not a stand-alone device itself... to replace the valve inner components you need to buy the whole rocker cover? The PCV valve in a Japanese car looks like a spark plug attached to a hose, and it's very easy and cheap to replace. Anyway I'd like to know after you have replaced the spring and diaphragm, is there any improvement?
Unfortunately, there was no improvement after replacing the PCV valve. A tell-tale sign for the PCV is a lot of oil in the air intake towards the turbo. Wipe it clean or wash the air intake and drive it for some miles, then open again and if there is a lot of oil there it could be the PCV valve. Also, while the engine is runiing open the oil filler cap and see if there is really excessive blowing from inside.
@@moremolecules After replacing my high pressure fuel pump with a used one, and turbine diverter valve with an after market model, I've solved my engine misfire issue, although it came with a price.
@@ypsiow1008 Really good that you solved and many thanks indeed for letting me know, more than appreciated. Is the turbine diverter valve the turbo solenoid at the back of the engine?
@@moremolecules It' a solenoid valve, in the case of Peugeot it's located at the turbocharger. See here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HPYPRjO3Ovg.html&ab_channel=danTubez
I have cleaned the EGR (do it every year now). The injector seals could potentially be a culprit, but one needs to see some tar substance at least on top for the injectors to be fully taken out and cleaned. On the other hand, a sonication might do them good.
@@moremolecules yes I took my injectors out was worth doing the washers cost hardly anything and the injectors was full of carbon and when I put them in my cleaner was a totally different car well worth doing mine was smoking alot especially when you put your foot down no smoke now from mine only 70k on the clock but my injectors was very dirty and I put injector cleaner in the tank every 3 months when you take them apart be very careful small parts inside loose a part you will be in big trouble
Hi Peter and many thanks. Yes, it seems a bit of a poor design, they could have designed something like a screw cap. It is designed for the whole rocker cover to be replaced, rather than just the diaphragm. I had a brand new rocker cover and it is much easier to remove the cap without breaking the pins, but on the car it was difficult.
I had the same engine better, had a negative pressure from CC to avoid turbo leaking due to the oil return was push back by blowby, to do that stretch a bit the spring control from the PVC diagpram so that theres a vacuum coming from the turbo suction. This will be better, especially if you have a catch. The spring control was factory settings. If you had an old engine and built a blowby, you needed to adjust the said spring.
Thank you for that comment. Interesting... I will have to think about this a bit more. Relaxing the spring will get better gasses evacuation, but less oil separation in the PCV baffles. So probably a bit more smokey, but probably less that the turbo leaking a bit.
nice video, watching it I just had an idea. Maybe you could like cut a ring out of a beer/soda drink can - place it all around the clips and slide all together to remove it? But can you buy a new diaphragm only anywhere?
Good idea! Unfortunately, there is nowhere to just buy the diaphragm. There used to be a guy on ebay that was selling those from Poland, but I do not think it exists anymore.
the spring should NOT BE TIGHTEN as this will prevent the rubber from sealing the outlet tupe when there is suction from the turbo, it should only open up when there is enough postive pressure from the blowby gases, there is also safety release valve next to the main valve in newer Citroens.
Thank you for the comment Palm Spring. You are quite correct that the spring should not be tightened and I think I never said or mentioned that. I am also not too certain how it can be tightened.
yes you did not state it, but the tendency of someone taking it out and stretching out the spring is there and we needed to remind people not to do it as it will be counterproductive.
as Diesels do not create an intake vacuum, it is never the valve stem seals! My guess is the turbocharger. Particularly on old cars, with an often filled particulate filter, the higher exhaust backpressure wears the shafts bearing on the compessorside, which causes oil to seep into the intake.
Hi cyberbob, many thanks indeed for the comment. I agree with what you have said. Since I installed an oil catch can, hence almost no oil going to the intake (pre-turbo), I still notice oil on the compressor side of the turbocharger. Logical conclusion is that either the shaft bearing or the compressor-side seal is seeping oil which of course gets compressed in the intercooler and burned on startup. My car does not have a FAP/DPF, so I suspect it is just age+mileage. Great comment, many thanks.
@@moremolecules hi I have rye same car 2009, and same problem when the car is cold smoking is coming our from exhaust , I changed pluw globs, change injectors seals and clean injectors. Still the smoking coming out at cold start. What have you did to fix the problem? Many thanks in advance
@@hsains8423 Since I installed an oil catch can I noticed that my turbo lets a bit of oil. You can see it here: (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4sl3zb6-bAQ.html). There is also quite a bit of oil in the plastic tube coming out of the turbo going to the intercooler. So, it is possible that either the turbo seal on the compressor side does not seal that well or the turbo shaft is not entirely leak free. Potential solution is to replace the turbo cartridge only. This is not too expensive and work is not really too much. I might have to look into that eventually.
@@moremolecules thank you so much, could you please send me any car parts website that shows the turbo Cartage with part No. I am not that expert in cars
Since the car smoke at cold start up. Did the oil in the engine decrease? Because in my case the oil stayed the same level... but always smoke at cold start up for one minut
I thought that the rocker cover was the cap...What i needed to buy is only the cap. I've already bought the membrane but I think I'm going to destroy the cap trying to remove it...Thanks anyway
@@casacb6609, I do not think you can buy just the cap on its own. The cap goes with the whole rocker cover unfortunately. You may be able to lift it without breaking the pins that hold with heat and spray some silicone grease on it.
Good day. Have you also got a problem with the rpm that stays high between gear changes? It almost sounds like a accelerator cable that gets stuck on a old carburetor engine. This is very annoying. My wife has a 1.6 hdi picasso with just over 200 000km on the odo. Old, but still going very well. Have you got any idea how to replace the evaporater inside the cabin for the AC unit on the Picasso? Thanks for the good videos. It helps me a lot. After sales service in South Africa is terrible.
the part seems to come with a spare cap, so i'll just stop hurting my fingers and break the old cap off right away. without the intake tubing i can feel and hear a lot of air rushing out as the engine runs, just like if I open the oil filler cap, so i bet my membrane is completely torn. also i guess this is a good diagnostic to do if you want to know the state of your membrane ?
Interesting and many thanks indeed for the comment. Yes, the spare part comes with the membrane, so easier rather than hurting your fingers. I had the spare part and wanted to see if it could be done. There were a few suggestions that it could be heated with a heat gun or on warm engine and the cap can be taken off. The membrane only is cheaper than the whole part.
I do not "insist on making an easy job hard", it is in the title "maybe not to" replace a PCV valve. I did not want to undo the whole rocker cover and then to have to re-seal it. Maybe it would have been easier.
Think its off the turbo. Ive a mazda 3 1.6d and because there is oil from the pcv valve being blown into the air intake hose, the turbo sucks it in and burns it. Cleaned mine using wynns egr cleaner and it sorted the issue
The o-ring seal that goes to the goes into the pvc has been replaced to creat a good seal. Which o-ring did u mean? The o-ring under the cap? The Membran?
Hi Baba, apologies, I probably meant the o-ring from the PCV valve breather. In other words, not the membrane, the membrane is not an o-ring. I meant this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ziKR6M6ToSg.html
Hi! I bought a Volvo 1.6hdi 80kW three weeks ago. A couple of days ago it started leaking oil from every engine seal (cam, injector, crankshaft etc.) and there is substantial pools of oil on top of the engine where injectors sit. Based on the massive oil leakage I suspect clogged PCV system (the membrane is ok). What do u think? Have any suggestions? The mechanics have told me the engine is blown.... :(
If it leaks like that from everywhere there is pressure in the engine that has nowhere to go. Could be variety of reasons, if you open the oil cap while the engine is running you should be able to feel all the pressure. Cannot tell from a distance, but could be all sorts of things, really clogged DPF, blown engine anything.
Sometimes the engine smokes a little when starting. I have an external oil separator. The fumes go under the car. So the occasional smoke after starting is not what the oil separator does. It smokes once out of ten starts. I park in an underground garage where the temperature is 10-25 degrees. I don't know why it does it (1.6 16V TDCI)
I cannot give you a definitive answer to the question, I have not yet solved it myself. Most likely on a cold start there is an excessive amount of blow-by and the oil return is slightly blocked by that and slipping a bit of oil through the turbo seals and hence the smoke. Once components have warmed a bit (5-10sec) there is less blow-by and oil returns. I might have a solution, but will need to test it first.
@@moremolecules Thank you for answer. I have modified the engine quite a bit, but the smoke at start-up has been bothering me for about a year. I'll be changing the turbo soon, so we'll see.
@@Tom74FFV If they work then I would leave them, as they might be on the stuck side inside the chamber, but if one is duff I would replace all of them.
Hello, my 1.6 hdi 90 xsara picasso is doing the same. First thing, I did, was brake those clips haha. But, let me tell you. It is not valve steam seals. I had my engine rebuild (new head, valve steam seals, new piston rings, new injectors, new valve cover, new glow plug sistem, sensors...). 3 months at the workshop, searching what could cause this lumpy start and smoke. NOTHING!! Searched all the forums in varius languages with google translate, nobody solved it. It is a mistery. Dont waste your money. BUT, if you find a solution, please tell me, it will be a miracle to me :).
Hi Tadej and many thanks for the advice. For the moment I am experimenting with an oil catch can. It seems like it is working, i.e. have not seen blueish smoke at cold startup, but will let you know in the long term, might be temporary.
@@moremolecules i am getting a little leak of oil where the turbo meets the intake, and it is dripping down onto hot turbo and heatshield etc, creating some fumes??? Could the pcv be the problem?
@@theginnetofginnets9624 Wait a sec, you are getting oil from the intake that is dripping on the turbo and heathshields? So, the intake, if everything in order, cannot drip. You have some sort of leak or split hose somewhere. The one possibility is that the crankcase breather is dripping a bit, pass the rubber o-ring. That is relatively normal, but it can only drip on the engine, nowhere near the turbo. The oil will get to the turbo eventually, but will just pass through the turbine to be burned. If you get fumes, check for split hoses and potentially or most likely the red rubber intake turbo connector is split and spilling oil.
@@moremolecules thank you for the reply, it turns out i was missing a green o ring on the flange that connects to turbo and i was getting a slight spray of blow by oil leaking out.... My next issue, the rubber turbo oil return pipe has no heatshield on it, and iv noticed from googling, they have an aluminium heatshield on the end closest to turbo, is this important or need i worry about it?
After you have clean the intercooler have you noticed any more blue smoke? I plan to route The breather directly to atmosphere and clean the intercooler to see that blue smoke appears again. So long I noticed The blue smoke appears on startup After a long cruise at medium-high loads or after prolonged idle period like traffic jams.
Also i found that after cruising and medium loads one injector oil seal leaks a little bit. I changed both oil seal and copper one recently and it does more or less The same thing. I think that it's a sign of to much crankcase pressure. Maybe it is a design flaw and The CCV valve doesn t work accordingly to maintain an even crankcase pressure.
Hi Vlad, I still get some blue smoke, but I do not think my problem (blue smoke) comes from the intercooler. It seems that after cleaning the ntercooler and fitting an oil catch can, there is a bit less blue smoke, but I can still see it on cold startup. I think the turbo lets a bit of oil when cold and when hot it seals OK.
I have a C3 picasso 1.6 Hdi that is low on power and has lots of blue smoke and used over a litre of oil in 15 miles, and ideas what that could be? Thank you
Over a litre is quite a lot. It could be that the turbo is gone and is burning that oil coming from the turbo feed, say potentially turbo seals. I would open the turbo cartridge and see how it looks like. A quick test is to remove the air intake to the turbo and move the turbo shaft with the propeller, there should be fairly minimal radial and axial play. See this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--ML49tY9Pgk.html If that is OK, then it could be that the PCV membrane has disintegrated. Not really an easy way to test, but lots and lots of oil from the crankcase breather into the air intake could suggest that this might be the culprit. Probably the turbo is gone. I have a few videos of how to replace it with quality components and the cheapest possible way, but requires a lot of hands on for a few days.
On that Engine you should have changed the whole cover. If you have blue smoke or oil in the intake it means that PCV valve is stuck in the open position and it lets the oil to go through the turbo and buned. Run the engine with hose unplugged and see if there is oil coming out from the the PCV valve.
Yes, I could have replaced the whole rocker cover, but one can only replace the membrane as well, as long as the spring is intact. The blue smoke is most likely coming from the turbo, i.e. slight oil seeping through the seal. In addition, oil will nearly always come out of the PCV valve.
@@moremolecules Yes that's correct, the oil should not be excessive. If you're 100% sure it is the turbo, you need to rebuild the turbo with new seals. It is not a hard job.
@@claymane91 Yeah, I would probably need a new cartridge with a seal and re-build it. I fitted an oil catch can to monitor the PCV oil output and it is not really excessive.
@@moremolecules yes the cartridge would save you a lot of pain. Before you replace it, watch some videos on youtube to fit it correctly, in addition to that you would need to clean the Intercooler.
I thought the membrane is the PCV valve or is it located in the actual rocker cover? I can't get a original part ATM for less than £180 so I was just going to change the membrane and spring.
Hi what are the symptoms of this pcv valve is there smoke or smell from the exhoust. I have a 2.0 tdci and there is a bad smell feom the exhoust the injectors are ok egr is blanked and catalic convertor is replaced with a straight pipe engine works and runs verry good any ideas ?
Hi Georgi, if rubber membrane is torn you may get more oil through the turbo and somewhat more blue-ish smoke out of the exhaust. If the spring gets damaged, then you may end up with blown gasket and oil.
That's a good advice and many thanks indeed for the comment. Next time if I have to do it, toothpicks and warms the plastic first, heat gun, hair dryer or something else.
Hi Jon, with engine running and pipe disconnected it will blow air out of the pcv valve. I do not mean from the PCV valve on top, but from the pipe. If it blows air from the top, the diaphragm is probably not entirely intact. The engine will have some blow-by and will pass through the valve, it is designed to do that, otherwise the engine will eventually explode or start leaking from the gaskets. It does not mean it is stuck open.
Yeah, not really. It did not help. The video was to check if there was dsomething wrong, like a broken membrane, but mine was intact, so that was not the issue. I will try in the next month or so to test a theory that I have about this. Hopefully it will work and I will post it if it does.
Yes you can. See my other video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-imxmg9z0rn4.html Links to the cap + membrane in the description of the video
Hi, great video! I Need help, i would clean oxygen sensor in the engine. I have the sale engine but i don t found lanbda sensor. You know where i can find It??
I suspect that this is not diesel, but petrol engine? The diesel egines do not have a lambda sensor. Both lambda sensors are found on the exhaust, one at the top and one at the bottom.
It was not leaking before, but there was no difference before and after. If that answers he question. I mean, it is leaking oil, but that seemed to be normal amount and there was no difference before and after.
No, it was not the PCV valve and it did not fix the problem. I am still doing some tests to see what it is. Could be valve stem seals, but there will be other indications.
Hi Артем, unfortunately the replacement of the PCV valve did not change anything. The smoke is still there. I am nearly certain that the turbo seals pass a bit of oil and the car smokes a bit blue at start up. I will replace the turbo cartridge sometime soon and will see if this changes the smoke.
@@vintrol6211 Thank you for your comment, is it a brand new turbine? The other thing about valve stem seals, if standing at traffic lights and then on moving you should have puff of smoke. I do not really have any of these.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and redid the air inlet pipes, the van pulls better lower down now and the engine is smoother. The engine is quite when cold and warm, but it makes a scraping sound suddenly when warming up and I think it blue smokes a bit, the sound is from around the belt area. Any ideas? It also black smokes a lot when under acceleration, I think that it could be the injectors??? I did see a fair bit of oil after the pvc valve in the air inlet pipe
Hi vince, you may want to investigate where exactly it is coming from. Blue smoke can be from a lot of places, does it blow blues smoke on cold, warm, idle or under acceleration? If it is under acceleration, it may be the turbo is going or gone. Black smoke is too rich fuel, but some black smoke is expected under heavy acceleration until the turbo picks up. Abnormal black smoke, I would check the air filter and replace it, but it could also somewhat be the new MAF sensor. Is it the original turbo and how many miles has it done?
more molecules I believe it is the original turbo, it has done 84000 miles. I don’t have any history for the car because it was an ex fire service alarm delivery van
@@vinceking7878 If it smokes blue on idle and revs it is very likely to be the turbo. I would first check the turbo shaft play (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--ML49tY9Pgk.html). Either way it is likely to be warn seals on the shaft. You may need to replace the turbo or just the turbo cartridge if the outer casing is good. Probably an oil service and slightly heavier oil would perhaps help a bit, say 5W-40.
I have not yet fixed it. Still not too sure what it is due to, it could be valve stem seals or oil pooling up in the intercooler. If you browse my videos you will find a few more on this topic.
@@moremoleculesHi, i also have a problem of the same type. On cold startup i have blue smoke and shaky idle until warmed up. It does that in warm and cold weather. Replaced injectors all 4, colant temp sensor, maf sensor and all filters... Do you have and suggestion?
@@dukibmw Yeah, probably valve stem seals, but I have not had the chance to do it. This is the only thing I have not tried, but I have had comments from other people that have done them and no improvement.
hello, 100% nothing to do with pcv valve. a bit going wrong way and all watchers confusing- you can check, - remove that black pipe from turbo and pcv valve- turn on cold engine - you will see white smoke, it is 100% from your turbo coming oil through intercooler to burning cylinders- nothing much can do. or try reply engine piston sensor may it helps! have a beautiful New Year
There is no engine piston sensor per se. White smoke is water vapour or too much air and less fuel and I am not too bothered about this. Blue smoke is oil being burnt, whether this comes from the turbo seals is different matter.
Hi Clara, it is a good question that does not quite have an easy answer, or at least I cannot offer one. A turbo can blow oil into the manifold, but there must be a reason behind that. It could be that the is back crankcase pressure, say increased crankcase pressure (e.g. old/worn engine and high blow by). In that case the oil that goes into the turbo cannot that easily go back in the sump, due to the pressure, stays longer and has a higher chance to leak. It could well be that oil seals inside the turbo are worn or shaft is worn and slips a bit of oil. Also, a non-stock or smaller diameter oil return could lead to slower draining turbo. Now, if the seals are worn, then changing the turbo will solve the problem, but is it is higher crankcase pressure, then a new turbo does not solve the problem. I do not think there is an alternative. Changing the turbo cartridge is fairly cheap and easy to do, but depending on the reason of a turbo blowing might not solve the problem altogether.
@@moremolecules thank you, I was asking for my brother, he is Peugeot specialist unfortunately the N14 engine is not common in Ghana . He says he would like to do business with you. Thank you. Please reply me with your gmail if interested
@@clarawendy1195 Is this the Prince (BMW) engine? I thought the N14 is the newish petrol engine, maybe I understood it wrong. Not too sure if I can be of much help, but if you think I can help with something, send me an e-mail to my business e-mail in the About page of the youtube channel.
@@simonince5713 The oil goes somewhere, if you are burning it it will be a bit smokey. Easier to see when someone is behind you with dipped headlights during night and you can see how smokey your car is. The 0w30 vs. 5w30, really depends on where you live and what the temperatures are. For my climate in the UK (milder winters and summers) 5w30 is good or even 5w40. Depends on where you live of course.
@@simonince5713 I have a hypothesis, not quite an answer, but will have to test and film it, so someone does not do it before me. Should be soon enough.
Because I thought it would be easier just to replace the cap. The seal of the whole assembly does not leak at all, so I decided just to replace the cap.
my car has blue smoke only when idling and it consumes oil, when i check about a trip or two the engine oil level is lower than it used to be. Could this be only from the pcv valve or it has something to do with the turbo or stem valve seals or even worse the piston rings ? Because i am going to replace tho whole cover and i dont know for certain if its the pcv valve thats doing this.
Hi Yugi, If your car smoke only under idle it is unlikely to be the pcv valve, it is most likely the valve stem seals. Have someone to look at the back of the car when you stay idle for awhile and then go, if it puffs blue smoke then, it is likely to be vavle stem seals
@@moremolecules could it also be the turbo because it puffs blue smoke only in idle and if i go only with releasing the clutch it doesnt smoke the same way if i would let go the clutch while accelerating, i've seen it and checked it for days, my only concern is that it might be the piston rings, my car is a ford focus cmax 1.6 tdci 2005 if it is the valve stem seals can you tell me where exactly to look in this model ? thanks
@@jugibabe7175 Generally if the turbo is problematic it will blow smoke under acceleration, floor the car and you should be able to see the blue smoke in the back mirror. Valve stem seals is a lot more complicated than just explaining in a reply here. The head needs to come off as well, re-surfaced, etc., although it is possible to replace them without taking the head off, but complicated.
@@moremolecules yeah i know the head must be removed in order to change the stem valve seals, i inspected the turbo in 3 places and all of them said that the turbo is ok, i replaced the whole rocker where the pcv valve is and that didnt fix the problem so my guess is the stem valve seals need to be replaced. i replaced the head top where the chain is before because ut ripped the chain in the middle of the road and i guess the guy who replaced the stem valve seals after he removed the head didnt do it properly because its after this that the car started smoking blue smoke. My only guess would be the stem valve seals because if it would be the turbo or the piston rings it would smoke in every acceleration or all the time but i tried it in highway with 130kmph and when it reached the optimal temperature it didnt smoke as much as i couldnt see any smoke in the mirror even if i floored the gas pedal.
@@jugibabe7175 Yes, it is most likely the valve stem seals. The most revealing for these is if you stay idling at traffic lights (oil pools on top on the valves) then you step on the gas the open more than at idle and a puff of blue smoke comes out, but no blue smoke once this has gone. The other way is to find a long down hill. Leave the car in gear and let go of the gas pedal, once you reach the bottom of the hill press the gas pedal (accelerate), there should be a puff of blue smoke (rear view mirror). I have not done it myself, so could not advise on how difficult/easy it is. The other thing is to open the intercooler inlet hose and see if these is a lot of oil there. If there is oil there, the turbo may be passing a bit of oil. Have a look at the air intake that hooks onto the turbo, wipe all the oil there (it is normal oil from the crankcase breather), drive for a few days and see if there is more oil. It could be that the engine breathes more than usual (piston rings) and spews a bit more oil outside. If this is the case, perhaps an oil catch can might be a good idea.
Hi Thomas, yes it could a hole in the membrane. You could buy just a membrane and try to replace it, although if you break the plastic it will be very difficult to be held together. Try to warm the cap before.
Thanks for your quick reply had it at so many garages and I've ordered the full unit as I knew I would break it and did and there was a massive hole in the membrane hopefully this will sort my leak out
@@thomastaylor8179 Sounds good to me. If I were you I would just replace the plastic cap with the membrane/spring. Otherwise cross-bolt tightening of the whole unit.
Buenas! Una pregunta, acabado de anular egr y fap y ahora por una apertura de la pcv (donde los clip) tengo gases. La tapa de cilindros es nueva. ¿Tendrías idea de que puede estar pasando?
@@moremolecules Buenas, ya se cual es el problema. Anular EGR y FAP, produce: sobre presión en el turbo y combustiones más enérgicas al incorporar gases con más oxígeno. Provocando, cuando el motor está frío y durante los 5min primeros tras el arranque, una cantidad elevada de gases dentro del motor, que no es capaz de evacuar la pcv por el conducto normal, evacuándolos por la parte alta (un orificio donde los Clíps) He montado provent200 y admision completa de Ford focus en un peugueot 308, como comentamos anterior mente. Si te interesa te puedo mandar fotos Un saludo
@@AndoniFV OK, it depends on how you cancelled the EGR and DPF/FAP. EGR is not that important as it will not produce higher crankcase pressure. DPF/FAP cancelling, depending on how it is done, might create excess crankcase gasses. If the DPF is blocked, most likely you will get some excess gasses. Still, the engine will stop working on its own if DPF is blocked and not removed from the system. It is dangerous if gasses escape from the PCV valve. Too much pressure and you will see oil from the oil seals. Was this before the Provent200 or after?
@@moremolecules anule egr y fap electrónicamente y físicamente. Los gases en la pcv aparecieron al anular egr y fap, independientemente de tener o no tener el provent200. En un primer momento pensé que era el provent200, y lo quite, dejando la salida de la pcv libre. Aún así salían gases 3-4min como te comenté. Un saludo!!
@@AndoniFV Yeah, I would say that it has something to do with the FAP/DPF. If I were you, I would do one at a time and see which one it is the culprit. Without knowing how the DPF/FAP was cancelled, difficult to tell. All in all, I think that the exahust flow is blocked, so you get more crankcase pressure. Why not measure the crankcase pressure directly and see if that is the problem. Something like this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FZYWcqkMN-I.html
No, the PCV valve did not fix the smoke and I had a few different attempts: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bCgm0Z8JJRg.html Cleaning the intercooler helps.
Bro thank you so much you safe me i put my car for yearly test my car didnt went through they say my engine co2 go is 2.0 and the normal is 1.5 they told me clean egr what you advice me to do
You can do two things, one is the proper way, clean the EGR (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wTQtVJEqGXI.html) or do an Italian Tune up. Drive it in high revs and rev it a bit before the test, it will clean some of the carbon, but the proper thing is to clean the EGR. perhaps intercooler as well. Good luck.
Hello, I have a sea question anyone knows the answer to. I have a 307sw 1.6 hdi and I replaced the pneumothorax a few months ago with a new original one and because the oil flew to the turbine and the intake and after replacing the oil, I still think so. Can it be fixed somehow. I would like to thank you for the advice
Hi Bartek, when you say pneumothorax what do you mean exactly. I suspect it is the PCV valve. What is the problem now? Still getting oil in the air intake before turbo?
This is the PCV valve I replaced with a new one. And the oil continues to go to the turbo and then to the engine, can this oil leak be removed somehow ???. Ale without Oil cach can !!!!!
When I start it up, it's a bit of a smoke, but it's not bad. But when it is a bit colder, there is a steam coming from the pipe. If I record a movie, I will put it on RU-vid and you will see what it looks like. Same name as my channel name
Such brittle plastic component all in the name of environment protection. My 30008 e-brake rocker switch snapped for the same reason. Peugeot needs to rethink the strategy. Forcing customers to keep replacing degradable parts is not environmentally friendly at all. They need to use components of more reliable materials and make their cars last for decades.
There would be no error related to egr if it is slightly open.I blanked mine and 90% of this cold start smoke dissappeared, if you have 110PS you would need new map or you could drive in limp mode 3000rpm, in 90PS just blank it it wont go into limp mode, aldough there would be an error p0401when scanned.
@@bngh12ful Thank you for the comment. AFAIK, they would throw an error, say EGR stuck on 35% or something else, my previous EGR was doing this. I have to try this actually, blank and compare smoke.
Hi Tadej, It has gone actually, but the weather is warmer, so cannot quite say for certain. I think I know what the problem is, but not too certain yet. The smoke has been helped with the oil catch can, but most likely the turbo is leaking a bit of oil past the compressor side. So, probably a bit of oil from the turbo going into the intake, hence the smoke.
@@moremolecules ok, that cold be possible, but i wonder if it would have to smoke all the time, if turbo is leaking , not just on startup. In my case, after engine rebuild and still loosing at least 0.5 l of oil every 10 000 kms, is a possibility that it is on a turbo... will see... :)
@@tadejmiklavcic454 Not really sure, but it could be that the compressor seal is not entirely tight with the age of the vehicle. On start up it is cold and does not seal that well, blows a bit of oil and once temperature rises it seals better. I only noticed a bit of oil just before the turbo when I installed the oil catch can (circular fine spray), as the hose is blue and brand new.
@@tadejmiklavcic454 I should have been clearer. After the installation of the oil catch can, I have almost no oil coming from the PCV and there is a very slight oil just before turbo in a circular fashion, as if the turbo when first spinning is spraying some oil. I cannot be certain when it sprays oil, at start up or other conditions. Amount is not really much, so I suspect only at startup. I took the exhaust off and there was no oil on the turbine side of turbo, only on the compressor side.
Hi Iain, do you have black tar around one or more injectors? Depends if it is ticking or chuffing sound. If it is more like chuffing it could be that a seal/washer at the bottom of the injector has perished a bit. Not too difficult to replace with the injector seat re-cut.
@@moremolecules hi mate no signs of leaking injectors ordered a leak off test found a pin hole in the intercooler so that would explain the smoke under load but not the ticking sound no ticking on idle just when acceleration with and without load
@@iainwalker8591 I guess not enough compression in the intercooler would leave the same amount of fuel, but less air hence the smoke under acceleration. Not really sure about the ticking sound. Generally leaky injectors have this ticking sound, that is why I asked about tar. Not too sure otherwise without hearing it.
@@moremolecules hi found the intercooler has went porous and leaking air also bought a leak off test kit will have a look at it tommorrow the berlingo has had a rough few years working in the forestry with me but has been very well maintained attached to it now and really dont want to get rid of it
@@iainwalker8591 A somewhat porous intercooler will lead to a lot of issues, but if you replace it or somehow plug it in, it should be good. Reading error codes with a cheap OBDII reader is always good to trace problems.
Hi Marcin, the problem for me is that it did not use to do it, so something has changed and I cannot still figure out why is it doing. I know there is no problem, as once the "morning fart" has gone, it is brilliant.
Yep, it is a bit. Someone commented that if it is warm + some silicone spray might work better and not break the plastic cap. Otherwise, it is pretty non-replaceable part.