Great tutorial! The only part of the process I don’t agree with is keeping the flame on the ptex instead of just lighting it once. If you light it once and let it melt itself you get a better layer as well as use way less ptex. the trick is that you want to keep the ptex Stick vertical and close to the board as it melts, this will limit the amount of oxygen it has to burn and not let it get hot enough to produce the carbon he was talking about (too close to the board it won’t stay lit and too far will produce carbon)
LOVE the Ski Dr! Thanks so much for sharing this expertise with us! Honestly, just having all this gear and equip to do the job properly like him has got to be so expensive. I’m hoping to see his van out at the mountain one day and stop by to have the pro do it properly for me!
Super rad Michael shared a few tips that he’s learned along the way. Seeing the clean and silky smooth final base makes me want to get my board waxed ASAP haha
my base is white and I tried using the white ptex as well. however, it left dark dots once i start burn the ptex. how did u manage to prevent that? thanks.
Rob Gams ptex is the same material as your boards base you’re essentially just filling the scratches or gouges back in then you wax over top. There are pretty much only 2 types of ptex (Black and clear) they are pretty much the same but the black ptex is more visible on your board and from my experience the black is easier to work with
@@SmallMTNShredder so I just bought a new board so if you just follow the steps that the video showed it will cover all of the scratches that you have on your board?
