How to Paint a model car body with Testors Extreme Lacquers and 2 tone a body. Repair and Polish 

Thanks. Glad they dropped the "one coat lacquer" name. Most any paint is best when not trying to one coat it.

I will run it under hot faucet water to bring the pressure up for atomization. Cooler paint and cooler temperatures will allow it to flow longer/flash slower. Either way works as long as its the way that works for you.

@@sodakmodelcars what happens when a can bubbles up on the bottom? I've been putting cans in a glass jar with warm/hot water before coats and it works great, however I'm worried when some start to bubble and expand a lot near the base of the can.

If the can is deforming or leaking at the seams it's clearly to hot/high pressure. I've never seen a can deform, I've seen some very old cans leak at the bottom seam. But not from anything I've done. When I talk about warming a can, its probably like 80-85 degrees. It should be warm but that's about it.

@@sodakmodelcars yeah I think I was using too hot of water lol. Thanks

Thank you! Hope it can help some.

Thank you. I have more coming when I can.

Thank you!

Thank you sir! There really are some nice colors in the line.

@@sodakmodelcars yes indeed my local hobby lobby are always fully stocked on all these testors & there is a lot of colors to choose from 👍🏻

Yeah it happens... When I mess up a paint job is because I'm rushing it or trying to get it covered/done with "this" coat. Yeah I think it would work pretty directly with acrylics and mostly with enamels(enamels being more strict/touchy on recoat times).

👍 For sure airbrush is always better control and efficiency.

Nice! I hope it goes well for ya! If you have any questions just ask and I'll try my best to help.

Thank you sir! I appreciate it and hope it can help some.

@@sodakmodelcars *This is sure to help many modelers~And those colors go great together~Exquisit my man :))*

Thanks again!

Thank You Michael!

Thank you Shawn!

Thank you! Welcome to the hobby and hope it goes well for ya!

Thanks and Good luck!

You're welcome!

Thanks for checking it out.

Thank you Seamus! Some loud noises came out when that happened lol

@@sodakmodelcars I could imagine lol

It is a nice source for our hobby

Thanks for watching

Awesome, hope it does help! Hearing that makes it worth it!

Thank you! And good luck with the paint job!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks Chris!

You're welcome and glad you picked up something. Thanks for watching!

Thank you and you're welcome!

Thanks

Good to hear! Thank you Dan!

Thanks you! I hope it can help!

Right on. The Tamiya sprays are (synthetic) lacquer as well and the same principles can be applied. Although Tamiya does have a better/finer spray nozzle.

Thank you! I hope it can help you out then!

Thanks! Hope it can help you!

Thank you, I appreciate it!

Double Thanks!

You're welcome Jack, I hope it helps!

Thank you! I appreciate the nice comment!

Thank you! Glad it was helpful!

Welcome and Thanks Mike!

Thank you Butch!

Thank you and you're welcome! I glad it can help and best of results on yours!

Thank you and you're welcome!

Thanks Mike! Glad to hear!

Thank you! I appreciate it!

Thank you!

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!

Thanks! Yeah its an usual design choice but yes I glued it in and filled with spot putty.

Thank you sir!

Thank you and thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks

Thanks!

Thank you for checking it out! The booth isn't really special, just made from scraps I had at the time. Basically a plywood box with an upswing front door so I could keep the top free for a work area but vlose it while things dry.. Then I used a broken dual window fan and dissected it for fans. Unfortunately I don't have an accessible window to vent it outside but its in an unfinished utility type basement so it doesn't hurt anything and don't notice any smells outside of the basement.

Thanks! Just wet sanded it smooth with 2000 and then repainted.

Thanks it's a good option.

@@sodakmodelcars Aye, I'm trying to build a red and white 57 Chevy for my brother in law and I can't get a good coat of paint on it. I have messed up two of them so bad I crunched them under my foot. I'm not kidding, It felt so good to destroy those damn models. I have a third one... I cant give up. I will find these paints and give it a go. I have no luck with my airbrushes, enamel or acrylic when it comes to painting a model car. I cant believe how tough of a time I have trying to paint one. Heres something else that's hard to believe...... I'm a professional model ship and aircraft builder!!! I build some of the largest model ships in the world and I can't paint a damn model car!!!! HA HA HA Crazy. I've been building models fulltime for a restaurant/museum for the past 28 years. I started when I was about 7 or 8, I'm 64 now. I've only built one model car in my life, Starsky and Hutch Grand Torino, it turned out ok but.... Thanks again my friend.

I have yet to fully smash one from frustration, I've managed to stick to very loud yelling! Lol I sure hope it works out for ya this time. If not there are ways to strip these kits without ruining the plastic. I don't know if it would be a good thing or bad thing to do it professionally! A good thing that once it's accepted and leaves your hands you don't have to see those things that may bug ya if ya see it over and over. Hope it works out!

Thank you Zippi!

Morning

Thanks Ron I appreciate it! Hopefully there's some more videos you'll enjoy!

I'm sure there is Adam. One I saw was the lowrider style paint job. I love that.

Yes and will just paint in a line when I do the gaskets.

You're welcome, hope they can help!

Thank you and welcome (back) to the hobby. I did body and paint for 20+ years, after 8 procedures and counting in 3-4yrs I had to call it quits. Missed it and picked up what I did as a kid before the career. I have all my videos in playlists so its easy to find some more videos. Unfortunately haven't done many How tos but hope to get more out this year. The stand comes from Tamiya about 20ish for a body holder and another one with clips. Make sure to secure the wires and halves so they don't come apart while painting. Many have learned the hard way when the halves separate. (Could use a design change)

@@sodakmodelcars Thank you! It's nice to know someone did the same job as I did. I loved doing the work on the vehicles cause to me it was like Model building just in Larger form and a lot of nut's bolts and screws LOL. I'll be looking for any new post from you and go back and view your older ones. Thanks for the info on the Tamiya stand and I'll be careful and make sure it don't separate. Talk again soon.

@Biker758210 No problem, I'm always willing to help if I can!

Yes to a point. All laquers dry pretty quick, your times may vary. Laquers just basically dry to a film and will re-wet with the next coat, so once it's dry to safely handle there's not really a benefit to wait longer if you're going to recoat.

Same for me. Although some can see a difference some can't.

@@sodakmodelcars I know, if it looks glossy it's nice. I also worked in a body briefly and learned the difference. I have misguessed a couple of times.

Just depends on the subject and what you're trying to portray. I've done paint on builds from matte to high gloss.

@@sodakmodelcarsThat's what it comes down to. I painted an HO VIA diesel for a friend and he asked me to tone down the gloss. The gloss would look out of scale being so small. Makes sense to. I do airliners the same way. A 1/16 car would look more like an actual car.

@jeffblack4268 Thanks. Flashing off is a term to indicate when a majority of the solvents have "evaporated". Paint would generally be dry to a light touch.

I guess, kind of as far as building it up with a light coat or two but generally with an airbrush its much harder to be too heavy (especially with lacquers quick dry time) and more often I have an issue with not being able to get it on wet enough to get a smooth finish.

AMT 41 Plymouth

Thanks Rick! I appreciate it. I painted the interior a couple weeks ago. It's like a khaki and caramel color.

@@sodakmodelcars Thanks Adam. I went & checked out your update video. It will go real good with the body colors.

@terrypeterson9783 Thanks, just a homemade unit with what I had, dissected an old double window fan and wired the motors separately.

@@sodakmodelcars Awesome thanks!

Ok

I use the Wizards polish and sealant, but whatever name brand polish will work well.

I use 100% cotton rags cut up for polishing. Terry cloths for final wipe down/dust control.

Thanks! Do you have a specific brand name for the washi tape? I've heard this before but the one I tried was not the same thing or near as good.

The last coat was a wet coat for the final finish. I've done 1:1 painting and custom painting for 20+yrs. I'm fully aware of actual paint. The reference to 40s was no clear, and the colors of the darker, brown, less vibrant (instead of something like purple or orange) but also said I wanted a "bit more". 40s with a kick

@@sodakmodelcars Your experience shows. I've watched lots of folks building and painting models with air brushes. Yours is the first using just rattle cans. And, the results you are getting is just amazing.

@ByranTorok I was under that impression also. They have been putting metal flake in automotive paints since the '20's of the last century. A foreign car company I believe. I almost fell out of the chair I was sitting in. The technology they use today, is head and shoulders above the metal flake that they were using even in the '60's. Finer flake. I believe the aim was to create a shimmer in the finish. It's really not that noticeable on a cloudy day, where they all look solid color, but the sunshine really brings the shimmer. Great tutorial Adam. It's tutorials like this that drive this community.

Thank you!

Thank you. It's a Tamiya painting stand, should be able to find it with a search.

Thank you!@@sodakmodelcars

At the beginning I showed the primer. Body is primed with Tamiya over repair areas, but other parts are bare plastic.

Yeah they are nice, I make no claim to best because it's just preferences.

That's just going to be a personal preference, I know many do but I remove all parts and clean seams before painting. Again preferences and it's very common to leave on trees for spray or brush painting.

Thank you! Welcome back to the hobby. With enamels it's hard to say or recommend something other than either polish the color you have to bring up the luster or using an acrylic type clear coat/glaze. Enamels chemically change to "cure" and create a "shell" so using another solvent based product over it can break that shell and cause problems. Typically using the clear coat like another coat of color may be the best case before everything is "cured" out. Lacquers only "dry" ,they don't cure, and adding another layer of lacquer only rewets the previous layers.

@@sodakmodelcars Than you for the follow up and all of the information, very helpful to me.

@deang4438 Welcome

@@sodakmodelcars Just to clarify, with the Extreme Lacquer you can apply clear coat ? With the enamel either polish or apply acrylic clear coat or clear coat before it has cured out ? Sorry but I'm learning all this again after many years, Thanks

@deang4438 Yes that is the way I treat it. I personally would only use enamels if I'm not planning on applying any other color or clear. (I rarely use enamels because of this) Enamels tend to have a higher gloss than lacquers when applied correctly/wet enough to flow. Polishing is all I would personally do to enamels. I have another video using spray can lacquers where I do clear. Most of my painting is done with airbrush and clear coats.

Best way to ensure consistent color, under colors can affect top color.

The two tone wouldn't follow correctly in the jambs if the hood was on while painting. With good consistent technique, there's no worry of color issue.

I use Yellow easy off oven cleaner. I have a small plastic cup that I put them in and spray down. Cover loosely for a bit as there is some off gassing. I just set the lid on without snapping it down. It's typically a few minutes but I like to leave atleast overnight to make sure all the varnish under the chrome is removed. Household bleach will also take the chrome off in just seconds but doesn't always do well with the varnish layer (some have it some don't and some are tougher than others). The easy off can be left in the cup and used several times over.

@@sodakmodelcars Thank you I'll try that.

I am not in Japan (USA) and I am not a seller of the product.

Nothing sprays as nice as the Tamiya nozzles. Warming cans will build some pressure and distance.

Yes, no plans to have ever clear coated it, if I was clearing it I would have done it before taking it out of the booth. But not the end of the world if you touch it, I touched it quite a bit while masking for the 2 tone. As well as many of my other custom paint jobs that get handled between colors or clear coat.

@@sodakmodelcars I hear you but you're wrong you never want to put your fingers to fresh paint I know I'm a professional car painter

When a car is in the paint booth and the base coat is on it ,you don't go in there touching it all with your fingers, and then clear coat it, you just don't

Same, over 20+yrs of professional painting and custom painting. I understand what you're trying to warn about but I touch the paint all the time when doing custom painting/masking. Not hard to wipe it down before paint. If I do a basics to painting I'll be sure to mention oils and cleaning your surfaces. But again it's not the end of the world and just in the model world most of my kit paint jobs I have handled with bare hands to do multi color paint work or vinyl tops. No issues. It doesn't immediately ruin the paint job.

Yes if I'm going from base to clear... like I said I wouldn't have taken it out of the booth and would've added the Testors clear like another coat.

I haven't done anything with die cast. Clean and scuff surface Lacquer primer (Tamiya or Mr Hobby) Lacquer paints (Testors or Tamiya) Tamiya Tape. If the paint still pulls to bare metal, then you need an acid etch primer. (Auto store should sell rattle cans, it will have a very strong odor/chemical smell so have proper PPE)

Thanks! On this one it is only the color coats, no clear.

@@sodakmodelcars Thx; I was asking in general terms. Do we paint followed by clear coat followed by a wet sand, and then wax/polish.

@southpaw5483 It's going to depend on the project. Wet sanding is used to remove something so it depends on what we are trying to remove, that dictates what happens after. I try to avoid polishing and my normal procedure is to color, clear, wet sand, clear and done. Sand/Polish dirt nibs if necessary. I do have another "custom painting with rattle can" video that shows the clear/cut/clear process.

@@sodakmodelcars Thank you for the help and insight.

If you're talking about the spray paint. It can be found at most any hobby shop. Hobby Lobby is probably the most common/closest place for me to get it. Also can be purchased online.

10" or so

You'd have to take that up with the manufacturer and lawyers.

I don't see any reason why you can't.

​@sodakmodelcars reason why I was asking is because I use rustoleum and that paint suck when it comes to adhesion. Paint chips very easily when putting on parts or opening/closing parts.

I'm not super familiar with working with die-cast (but have done 1:1 body/paint for over 20yrs). Are you working from bare metal or painting over factory paints? Assuming bare metal... I think the lacquers will work for you. But if not, adding an etching primer will greatly help. Idk if Rustoleom has a version of etch primer but a high quality etch primer from an auto store can nearly guarantee adhesion. It only takes a single very light, near transparent coat. But they are usually pretty strong odor so outside or well ventilated is recommended.

Or acrylic

For me, I prefer them for the faster dry times, infinite recoat times, seem to layout thinner, just overall seem less volatile to work with over the enamels. Especially when doing multi colors. If you only do single colors I think enamels can be a good option as they can have a bit more shine and some more durability. Enamels go through a chemical change by oxidation which kind of creates a "shell" which is good for a final finish but can "break" if recoat times aren't perfect or get a little too heavy with next coat, etc. Lacquers just dry and can be "re-wet" at any time (kind of like dirt/mud, solvents evaporate and doesn't chemically change) And lastly the color options seem to be more my preference in rattle cans. I do use pretty much everything, (rattle can and air brush) acrylics, lacquer, automotive urethane and lastly the occasional enamels.

Yeah, everything hurts right now

Yes, essentially the whole can for Root beer and halfish on the bronze.

Airbrushing is always going to give you more control.

AMT 1941 Plymouth

Clearly have never seen any of my other paint jobs, and thats not what this video is about.

Unfortunately very little is Made in America anymore. But every can I have states "Made in USA" and could not find a source that says otherwise...Can you share your source? What's your "American" alternative for hobby grade paint?

@@sodakmodelcars I retired from Testors and it was shuttered and sold years ago, ask anyone who lives in Rockford Illinois..... Sad what happened to a 100 year old company and it's employees.

Its an unfortunate way of business not all can remain where they are while they grow or die. I guess I can't track of whats original and what's been bought out. But the cans that have the Testors name say "Made in USA" so I don't know what you're refering to is now made in China.

@@sodakmodelcars Like I said, it's owned and made in China. You should try real automotive paint. You will be surprised at the results

Idk how they can label it "Made in USA" if its made in China. There should be a law against that... 20+yrs of professional automotive painting and custom painting I have some experience with it, as well as several cars on the channel painted with it.