How to Paint Fill Wood that has been Laser Engraved 

better way to remove the mask from inside the letters is to use a dental pick. It tends to not scratch the substrate or cut the masking tape.

Nice tip.. thanks

nice tip thanks

I did my project that way. Its faster too as engraving takes a bit longer.

It comes even bigger than that and it's cheap. It's called application tape - search for sign suppliers.

It's used in the vinyl signwriting trade, google transfer or liftoff tape.

It's called Vinyl Transfer Tape or Mask. But it's not vinyl (bad for your laser) but actually a paper based masking that is used for vinyl cutouts like lettering and such. Then the vinyl letters can be affixed to a glass door for example, the tape or masking peeled off and the vinyl remains on the door. You've probably seen it on commercial establishments. The paper based version comes in a couple of handy widths - 12" & 6" are the two I use most. The length of the rolls vary, but be careful because the cost per foot for the shorter rolls is often very high. I've seen 100 foot rolls cost almost as much as 100 *yard* rolls. You can get it online including from Amazon - just make sure it's not made from vinyl, just for vinyl transfer. Especially good if it says it's laser safe.

@@jimhatch5873 which do you use from amazon? I ordered their (fake) 3m 200 and 201 and it sucks donkey balls. It bleeds worse than a Charles Manson victim. Not to mention it tears like tissue paper when you try and get it off the roll. I say the stuff from amazon is (fake) because it's not real 3m masking tape. It's knock off even though it has 3m printed on the inside of the tube.

Same here. Very weird, because I got sound the second time I played it.

Sorry about that. Unfortunately during recording a mic setting got bumped. On certain devices the audio doesn't play correctly. We have found watching on a phone or similar device plays the audio correctly!

@@JDSINDUSTRIES sounded good on my computer

You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9 Thank you!

Yes, Same transfer masking tape used for vinyl lettering/stickers….i buy mine from USCutters. I use it all over the shop😎

it is not laser paper. it is transfer tape used in vinyl transfer. can be purchased at any sign or silkscreen supply shop.

It's not laser paper it is low tack masking for transfering cut vinyl lettering for signs.

The gloss is from the the Black Piano Finish Plaque. You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9

You can view the masking tape we used in this video here: bit.ly/3SaXzKp If you are looking for larger sizes, we do offer some here: bit.ly/3kJdraQ

Laser stufff

You can view all of our laser mask offerings here! bit.ly/3abI94m

Rub & Buff should work!

The product we used in this video was our LazerDark Clear Coat. Part number LDK200 on the JDS Industries website. It is a semi-transparent spray for enhancing the laser engraved area on most types of wood. Hope this helps!

You can view the masking tape we used in this video here: bit.ly/3SaXzKp

The material is the Black Piano Finish Plaque from JDS! You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9

The material is the Black Piano Finish Plaque from JDS! You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9

We have paint-filled cutting boards before. They are mostly just used for decoration purposes then but there are different sealants that some put on like some food safe oils and it seems to be fine. Wouldn’t recommend filling a whole board with engraving and use it but if it’s just a corner of it I’d say it’s fine. Hope this helps!

@@JDSINDUSTRIES this cleared things right up for me. Thank you!

@@JDSINDUSTRIES What type of paint did you use for the cutting boards and what tools? Also if for outdoor signs, what sealant would you recommend for acrylic paints?

@@kariforrest9960 The paint we used is Rustoleum but most spray paints can be used! As for a sealant, it would depend on the substrate. If you are still thinking wood, something like a Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Coat should work.

Rust-Oleum is usually what we use!

You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9

Hello! You can view all of our plaque and accessory offerings here: bit.ly/3Hqz8Dl

The tape will not catch fire!

Sorry about that. Unfortunately during recording a mic setting got bumped. On certain devices the audio doesn't play correctly. We have found watching on a phone or similar device plays the audio correctly!

I'm watching on a phone and the audio is not working properly

@@JDSINDUSTRIES actually I'm watching the video in a smartphone, and have issues with the audio

No it doesnt

@@JDSINDUSTRIES nope..phone not working.. just hearing: gschirarisxhissssssshhhhhtttsss😂

This tape melts with plastic, so we wouldn't recommend using it to paint fill plastic. We wouldn't recommend paint filling plastic. If you need further information we'd be happy to help! Give us a call at 800.843.8853.

It looks like you should be able to use this same process!

The paint we used is Rustoleum but most spray paints can be used! The gloss is from the the Black Piano Finish Plaque. You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9 Hope this helps!

@@JDSINDUSTRIES thank you very much

You may still need to manually remove smaller pieces but using tape should work !

This would require a multiple taping and laser process, covering different areas at different times while painting it. This would be a good topic for another video. Thank you! In the mean time, our fabrication department would be able to help with a more detailed explanation. You can reach them at 855.537.2228!

The gloss is from the the Black Piano Finish Plaque! You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9

Masking off any area with tape that you don't want painted is important if you plan on painting. It is best to mask before engraving. We use Rust-o-leum here most of the time. Krylon we use for glass. Hope this helps!

@@JDSINDUSTRIES Roger That, 'JDS'!! Thanks for the reply back and info. I did use a 'Rust-o-leum' Product with Great Success!! As far as masking I was able to remove the parts ...... That didn't need painted, so no problems there. But thanks for the assistance. :)

Most vinyl is not safe for lasers. If it is laser safe, when you're rasterizing it (not vector cutting it) it’s most likely to melt onto your wood surface and leave extra sticky residue. You're mileage may vary as we don't have a ton of experience using vinyl as a masking tape. Hope this helps!

@@JDSINDUSTRIES It does. I did not even think about it melting! Thanks for getting back to me! :)

Yes. It can be used with a fiber laser!

Mid to high tack masking tape. Here is an example: bit.ly/3uqZu3c The paint we used is Rustoleum but most spray paints can be used!

Fill!

This is what I was wondering. I have used fill before and it left residue. I have a diode laser tho….I’ll have to test out different settings. Thanks for the video!

@@suburbansurvival5711 Adjusting your speed to faster should help solve the residue issue!

We use Rustoleum if the product is being masked and lasered. Rub n Buff if the product is already lasered!

The gloss is from the the Black Piano Finish Plaque. You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9

You can view the tape we used in this video here! bit.ly/3zbiUM0 bit.ly/3uqZu3c

Paper Tape! Plastic/vinyl tape does not mix well with the heat of the laser.

@@JDSINDUSTRIES thanks

The masking tape we used in this video wouldn't work with acrylic as it would most likely melt to it. Unfortunately JDS doesn't have a mask offering that works with acrylic at this time. Hope this helps!

The gloss is from the the Black Piano Finish Plaque! You can view them on the JDS website here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9

Unfortunately, the heat of a laser would probably be too much for chocolate!

Laser Dark!

You can view the tape we used in this video here! bit.ly/3zbiUM0 bit.ly/3uqZu3c

In this video, we applied a clear coat first. The product we used in this video was our LazerDark Clear Coat. Part number LDK200. Hope this helps!

Small detail does work, but can be trickier. It needs to dry longer. And really ensure the masking is down well before and after engraving. Using a blank sheet of paper and squeegee to go over it to make sure the tape is down really well before spraying it. Then a clear coat before the color of choice, letting it dry really well and when going back to weed it be very careful. Hope this helps!

You can view the masking tape we used in this video here: bit.ly/3SaXzKp

@@JDSINDUSTRIES thanks, so is normal masking tape , right?

It is! A mid tack tape.

@@JDSINDUSTRIES thanks again. 💪

You may be talking about the masking tape? If so, you can view that here: bit.ly/3SaXzKp

This plaque is part of our PNB series. The Black Piano Finish Plaque. You can view them here: bit.ly/3q97Eu9 Let us know if you have any other questions!

We have! That video is available here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E1Vrf3vOJkU.html

The first spray we used in this video was our LazerDark Clear Coat. Part number LDK200. Hope this helps!

These masking tapes are available from jdsindustries.com. You can view them directly here: bit.ly/3SaXzKp

@@JDSINDUSTRIES Thanks a lot!

BTW are you shipping to Israel?

Hi- Re-asking

I am not the OP, but I am a woodworker that uses a laser. The answer will depend on your laser type and power AND the making material that you use. EG: The settings for someone using a 5 watt diode laser and 3M yellow masking tape would be different than someone using a 100 watt co2 and Frog Tape. What I personally did was take a piece of scrap and cover it with mask material then ran speed & power tests to find the "just right" setting. Those settings will likely change if you change masking material and possibly the material you're engraving on. I hope this helps.

The pinned comment at the top should have a link to a version of the video with feed audio!