Thanks for the video! A detail (I have seen the pros do) is they will load up their roller or brush with paint and only make about three passes along an area before reloading. Often, the novice painter, will roll the paint on an area and then roll over it a few times too many (and or apply too much pressure) and end up removing the paint they just applied. Another tip, if you are mid painting and need to take a break for a few hours (or even a day), is to load up the paint roller heavily with paint and then wrap it with plastic wrap (making sure it is completely covered) and then stick it in the refrigerator. Saves from having to clean it up both days. Last observation, the pros never dip more than half of the paint brush in to the paint. this helps keep the area where the bristles attach to the handle from getting clogged with dry paint and helps the brushes to last longer over time. Happy painting!
Hello MMM. This is not painting-related, but since this video is your most recent post I thought I should post my question here. First, thank you so much for laying out your knowledge/experience in a no-nonsense way! I JUST discovered the FI community over the weekend and have done a fair amount of bingeing. At this point in my life I don't have a nest egg, no 401k, no anything. At 45 years old it seems like I should go all-in to save enough money to get a rental property. If that assumption is right, where should I be putting the savings toward that goal? Savings accounts these days have a .05% interest rate. A 401k isn't for this kind of saving. It doesn't sound like the Vanguard broad index is for something like this either. There are a lot of good ways to save money for retiring, but I need a big boost in the beginning; it seems like real estate is the first step since I have 20 years left but I'd really like to retire in 10 years. My current work is very physical and I don't know if I can continue on this track for 20 years. I've been looking at the numbers on a compounding interest calculator and I think I could have enough saved in 4 years at a 2% interest rate to make a 50% payment on an investment property (or keep some aside for basic improvements.) But where do I get the best interest rate for this length of time? From your graph "The Money Spectrum" in episode 9 it looks like stocks or bonds? (And I have to say that the 2% estimate on the saving account category is too high, but please point me to the bank that gives 2% if you know of one.)
Hi MMM- I'm a senior in high school who started reading your blog about a year ago. I will be going to an in state public university and my parents are paying for all my expenses. Do you have any advice for mustachian college students trying to plan for FI?
Hey MMM, would you mind sharing what the name of the red is in your music room? It doesn't appear to be any of the four colors shared in the video description. Thanks!
I see that a lot of your ideas come from putting in the work is necessary to save. Is there ever a time in your mind that you think it is worth paying for work to be done?
Painting is not the problem, the prep work is: Safely removing the existing, flaking (lead) paint. Repairing termite damage, nail holes, etc. Sealing all the joints in the plank walls. Cleaning up the dust, and *finally* priming and top coat. By the time you touch a paintbrush, 90% of the work is done...
I would love to see “Day in the Life” videos where you show how you live, eat, bike, etc. Similar to the Day in the Life blog post you wrote www.mrmoneymustache.com/2018/05/15/a-day-in-the-life-of-my-supposedly-frugal-stomach/
Hi MMM, thank you so much for posting--this is really useful. Could you please explain the logic behind the caulk? I've never heard of this before, and my ceiling lines are deplorable.
THAT little trick is really the whole point of this video, so I'm glad you asked. So, the caulk is thicker than paint, which means it does not seep under the tape like paint will (especially on textured drywall as I have in this house). The caulk more or less just stops in a straight line at the tape. So then you paint it immediately while still wet, and then rip off the tape while the paint is still wet. You end up cutting away the paint/tape combo like a zipper right at that desired line, and you get amazingly straight results. Also works if you want to change color right in the middle of a wall - like to define where one room ends and the next begins in an open-concept house.
@@MrMoneyMustacheChannel Oh, I see! Thank you for responding. I've got a kitchen that sports a jagged edge where a straight edge should be, so this trick will be very useful to me this Saturday.
@@MrMoneyMustacheChannel Im glad someone asked this question because I had the same thought. So is the end result a straight line with zero caulk left? Or would there still be a little ridge of caulk left at the end? I suppose this would only be a concern if it was on a flat wall as you mentioned. Thanks for the great video!
Following up to MMM's reply, this trick is also used by artists in both oil and acrylic paintings. I use it myself, just with a different substance that plays nicely with oil paint.
@@MrMoneyMustacheChannel Thanks for explaining. I was going to ask the same question. It's definitely a problem having the paint seep under the tape. I'll try this method next time.
As luck would have it, my basement happens to have a SUPER UGLY bathroom right next to this formerly super ugly basement bedroom. Needs a tile floor, vanity, toilet, and a poured concrete showerpan and tiled shower to make it nice. Let's do it!
During my pre-mustache days I had hired a painter. Best thing I learned while watching him? Put your paint tray in a plastic trash bag. Makes cleanup of the pan take zero time, just pull up the bag! Plus you can tilt the contents of the bag into one corner of the bag and then snip the corner to pour the remaining paint back into the can easily. Very little paint is lost, tons of time saved and no running paint down the drain while washing the pan.
Suggestions from a pro; 1. Cut before roll - it gets the stipple from the roller consistently close to the corner. 2. Use flat paint. Modern flats have good staying power, but leave the room feeling warmer from least harsh shine, as well as hide imperfections (also because of less sheen). 3. If you must use eggshell, satin, or any paint with enamel: ALWAYS roll into a wet cut line. If the paint from the cut dries before you roll you’ll get very evident uneven sheen where the paint overlaps (“flash”). 4. ***Unless completely impossible due to space, ALWAYS use a roller pole (retractable are worth the investment). It’s not for reach, it’s for control, leverage, and consistency.*** Put a tad more pressure on the leading edge to alleviate roller rope (the edge line of built up paint on a roller stroke). 5. Don’t be skimpy on paint when you lay it on. The first few strokes with a roller or brush should be to transfer the paint to the surface and spread it a bit, the next few should be the detail/leveling/working strokes. Use very little pressure on these second part strokes for consistency and control ( tips of bristles, light/long roller strokes...). Having a dry brush or roller on the first set just wastes your time (more dipping) and gives a worse result. I’ve never heard of that caulking tip for cutting in, but taping for pros is reserved for overspray or protecting surfaces, not for getting clean lines. With a steady, practiced hand you don’t need it, and tape (barring this caulking tip maybe) always leads to a much worse looking result.
I saw people use a tube of 3m something to seal the tape before but never regular dap caulking, you are right pros dont tape and use a pole, even a broomstick is better than no pole
Amen on the flat suggestion. One of the best things I ever did was paint my living, kitchen, and dining rooms with BM Aura Flat. Cleans up like an eggshell and looks 100% better.
I am glad the pro's don't need tape, but for the average Mustachian who is not a pro (i.e., myself), not using tape would have made my ceiling look like a botched abstract painting. Pete is giving good advice to a bunch of people who are not paint pros but who nonetheless want to DIY their own jobs. I think its sound advice for a bunch of us. Hey, if your a pro, then by all means, don't use the tape. However, there are plenty of us who do not paint professionally, and a little tape is sometimes the only thing saving us from the ghastly result of an unsteady hand.
Do you think a centralized light fixture with like 3 or 4 moving heads would have a given you the same lighting? Or is that look specific to track lights?
Just got done doing side hustle painted inside Tudor house. My favorite thing to do is cut in part. Ceilings are easy lol. No taping free hand Purdue angle brush 1.5 inch brush. Good idea on paint roller cleaning....usually throw out
Yes, definitely! That will make a good short video too and we can cover the wiring and drilling circular holes into the ceiling. It's a neat little trick.
Hey MMM, as a former commercial/industrial painter I take some issue with your method. First, paint ceilings and underneath like with your duct bump out first to avoid splashing on the wall. Second, cut first then, almost always, use a rolling pole with your handle while rolling all the way up and all the way down into the wet cut keeping a wet edge on the roller. None of this roll all over the place nonsense. You want to have a nice even stipple. Third, learn to cut your lines without using tape, and there is no need to caulk unless you are filling a crack. Regarding the cleanup, get a 5-in-one paint tool to scrape as much paint off the roller cover before cleaning.
Thanks Jim! I like those tips, and the "wet edge" thing is especially important with paints other than flat sheen. But I still disagree on the tape lines though - if you have a super dark colour coming up against a white ceiling, especially on a texured drywall, OR are changing colors in mid-wall, nothing compares to the amazing straightness of tape-n-caulk. And it can be much faster too!
Thats the best way to clean a roller ! But you should put a white bucket between your legs angled down, hold the roller against it and let it spin inside so the paint only gets in the front of the bucket and not in your face
Hi MMM! First time viewer here. Nice work by the production team for making me laugh with the sound effects! I'd like to apply for a license for your patented roller cleaning technique too. :)
digging the mustachian DIY video's, keep em' coming please! also walking around on those rocks barefoot is pretty badass, I didn't see you wince once :-)
I think you're asking the wrong guy! He's a dedicated bicyclist. :-) However, he does have an episode about the best 6 cars to own if you must own one at all. Check that one out.
exactly what I needed, I have two rooms that need work and I was too cheap to hire a painter but hesitated since I figured I'd screw up the project.....what's the best type of paint for the bedroom (latex)?
