Hey man I subscribed and hit the like button. I want to let you know that becuase I also wanted to give some small critiques. I also used to be a proponent of krykon / rattle can over cerakote/gunkote etc. Over the last few years of professionally doing all sorts of gunsmithing and treatment I have throughly changed my mind. So first, look into dry spray vs wet spray for paint adhesion, also layer lines (which is near impossible to avoid with rattle can) will cause chipping and get down to the metal eventually which ruins any treatment value. More than anything if you rattle can something with krylon it makes it near impossible to do anything else with it as far as treatment. I measured the time for an AR with that exact brand of paint on it and we have to charge a $200 up charge for excessive cleaning and prep. Last two things. To cover another color you can use steel wool and spread it out to spray through it. That will give it a hazy appearance. Finally, rattle can away if you want. I used to do it on cheap guns that I wanted color on. Just please understanding how much your destroying the long term value of the firearms with it. Keep up the channels work though. I'm excited to see it grow.
Looks good. Could always spray some green through some mesh screen on that FDE too to help break it up more. I think some people way over think it on their camo colors and patterns. Usually the point is not to draw attention. I think paying more attention to details and such is more important for snipers and specific hunting methods as the point is then to deceive and blend in. Most people aren't full time snipers and most aren't hunting animals with tremendously good eye sight up close.
Yes depending on how you want the final effect to show, you want your base coat to be the second most color you want visible, the second color you put on is generally going to be the most predominant color, with each color after getting less end effect if you are stenciling right.
Generally, the rule of thumb is lightest to darkest color. I would base coat the tan then green/brown as they’re about the same hue, then and I emphasize this, sparingly add black. Just a little bit to help imply shadow. If you have more color choice I’d use burnt umber instead of black as it’s less harsh to the eye. Also it’s worth remembering that scale plays a factor, you’re trying to break up the outline so you don’t really need to go super small and detailed with the camo for it to be effective, but it does look cooler
It all depends on what kind of colors you see in your AO (area of operation). I'm up north so bright greens with some brown and a little FDE does it for the summer months. More tans and browns in spring and fall, egg white or off white with dark brown, a little bit of dark grey and a touch of black works for the winter months. There's no point if I camo up to blend in if I don't do my firearm of choice. I figured that out once I got busted too many times by turkeys, coyotes, and other animals. Some can only see certain colors, some can see UV to some degree, others have tremendously good eye sight. I've learned to use colors and patterns to my advantage. Also, try out airsoft. It's fun, but also, if you can camo up yourself and your equipment and people walk right past you, you'll be able to do the same when it counts.
One word of advice for everyone, tape over your serial number and leave that area totally untouched by paint. God forbid you ever get put in a tough spot but I would not put it past the ATF to claim that spray paint in the engraving constitutes “attempting to obliterate or alter a serial number” just better to be safe and cover it.
I'm going to jump in here and suggest your hesitancy is warranted. You need to figure out if this rifle is a use it and abuse fun rifle, or if you want to trust it and pass it down. If its the later, then DO NOT rattle can it. Rattle can cam trap enough water to cause rust on metal over time, it also allows water to permeat with extreme heat cycles (gun fire). And if you ever strip it and find that out the hard way and want it professionally repaired, then is going to cost you a hell of a lot more to get it fixed up. My shop adds about a $200 upcharge for basic ARs that have been rattle canned for cleaning and prep work.
Hi sir, this is Henry Karla from a hunting accessories brand. I am attracted by your performance in YTB and sincerely invite you to work together. We can sponsor your videos. If you are interested, please leave me your email. Then I will send you some products to see. Looking forward to your early reply.
