HOW TO Photograph SUNRISES and SUNSETS 

No right or wrong mate. Once I start shooting I often keep the shutter going and just have fun with the landscape. Still good to be thoughtful and have direction though, that’s for sure. Thanks a lot.

Thanks a lot John. Always appreciate it mate 🙏🏻

Haha, thanks mate!

Wow, I’m really pleased to hear that. Thanks so much for the support and taking the time to write such a comment. All the best with the new chapter 💪🏼📸

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography I am a bit of a data nerd so this all suddenly makes sense…

Thanks alot mate!

Thank you friend 👊🏻

Thanks a lot mate. Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Awesome, thank you! Hope you enjoy the rest 🙏🏻🙏🏻😊

It’s certainly a great time to be a photographer. Thanks mate!

Very kind, thank you 🙏🏻

No problem! 👊🏻

Glad it was helpful. Cheers!

No worries Jane. Thanks :)

Thanks and welcome!

Thanks for the support and thoughtful comment mate. Hope you enjoy the rest of my channel 🙏🏻😊

Thanks Glenn!

Thanks! 🙏🏻

Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much !!

You're welcome!

😂 haha. Thanks mate. I hope you (and her) enjoy the rest of the channel 😆🙏🏻

Absolutely. This is the main reason I switched from the Canon 5DII to the first Sony A7R, almost 10 years ago, haha. It really simplifies the workflow that's for sure. Enjoy!

Thank you 🙏🏻

Thanks a lot! Motukiekie, South Island NZ 👊🏻

Thanks for subscribing and for the kind words!

One of my favourite techniques :)

Thank you 🙏🏻

Thank you 🙏🏻

Thanks. Some lenses are worse than others with flares. It’ll mainly happen when the sun is hitting the lens on an angle, so try and adjust your comp so you are more front on to the sun, plus make sure the sun isn’t too bright and high above the horizon. Hope you enjoy the rest of the channel mate. Cheers.

Hey MC. Thanks! Shutter speed has nothing to do with focus or sharpness, it's simply the speed at which the shutter opens and closes to let light enter the camera. If it is dark, we need slower shutter, and brighter will need a faster shutter. If you go too slow on the shutter, the image could be blurry if you are not steady. In this case, that speed is more than fine for me. I often shoot much slower handheld and don't use a tripod at all. Commonly, people would be on a tripod. Hope that clears things up. More info on this video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-W1rVVUwYYU4.html

I don’t use any ND filters at all. Thanks for the support and I hope you enjoy the rest of the channel. Cheers 👊🏻

Thanks a lot mate. Flare will occur when the sun is stronger (higher in the sky) and when it’s hitting the lens on more of a side angle. Shooting front on like this in low light generally doesn’t make a flare. Some lenses are also worse than others for it.

Thank you! Yeah that definitely is an option if the dynamic range is struggling but you’ll be surprised how much can be obtained in the single exposure. I don’t use a tripod so I’ll sometimes use bracketing to get a slower exposure for water flow, then blend that into one the faster/sharp exposure.

Haha, thanks a lot. Keep getting out there and it will all come together for you soon. I appreciate the support and hope you enjoy the rest of my channel :)

Thanks a lot. Honestly the meter and metering mode doesn’t matter much, as the histogram overrules all that and shows what’s happening in the entire frame. Couldn’t even tell you what metering I’m on, probably evaluative but once you learn the histogram that’s all that matters. Just keep an eye on that. Cheers.

My pleasure. No, I don't bother with them. Probably been at least 6 years or so since I last did. Same for the tripod.

Hey Paul :) The f-stop is all about your depth of field, and whether you have something near to you, as well as something far away in the frame. If that’s the case, you’ll want a narrow aperture like F/11, F/16 etc however if you are shooting a scene that is ‘flat’ then the f-stop is somewhat irrelevant and you can’t go wrong. An example of that could be a mountain peak several miles away where you have nothing close to you. Hope that helps. In this video because I had the flax close to me as well as the stacks in the distance, then F/16 was required to be sharp all the way through. Hope that helps!

100% Thanks so much Fi!

Thanks Mel. You need to keep in mind that the iPhone does an auto edit on all images and video and even auto exposure blend to handle the dynamic range. With our digital cameras and RAW files, we need to bring out those details later in processing. More work but far greater detail and results are possible. Once you get the knack of editing and develop your own workflow it gets way easier and more rewarding :)

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography yes I think I just need to find a consistent editing style that looks natural & is fast. Your videos help a lot!

Thanks a lot mate, really stoked to hear that and I look forward to having you part of the community. Reach out anytime!

PS if you can, have a look at mirrorless, something like the z7ii or z8. I know it’ll cost more but the tech is far better, especially for handheld shooting, dynamic range etc

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Would love to go mirrorless, but can’t affird the Z-series body, let alone all new lenses. That’s okay though. I’m not discouraged. With the quality of images I’ve produced with my trusty old D50 in the past I’ve no doubt I’ll improve with the D5600… and with tips and guidance from people like you. Cheers!

@@dirkgibbens377 Yes definitely, just have to work with what you can. The improved dynamic range will help a lot :)

Expose as bright as possible until the highlight details are about to be lost. Then in post we recover the shadow details. For focus please check my other videos where I cover that. Also there is a video on the histogram, which will help you with exposure.

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Thank you! I love your work. I don't see the histogram video.

That's because people mean too many things when mentioning "HDR". The channel owner was talking about exposure bracketing and his "own" exposure blending techniques of cramming high dynamic range into a standard SDR image. What you are talking about is *true* HDR that comes with different specifications and names like HDR10, HDR10+ and Dolby Vision. THAT HDR apart from having wider color gamut and 10 to 12 bits per color also contains particular as they called it "metadata", even though to me it appears more of a separate layer instead. So far, I found quite a few image formats supporting true HDR: EXR and OpenEXR, JPEG XR, HEIC (most likely) and to a certain extent good old TIFF (if you can call that mess a "format" in the first place). You might want to install the HDR + WCG Image Viewer app (on Windows) that can visualize the "Luminance Heatmap" apart from actually showing the HDR image itself. That "heatmap" seems to be the layer telling the software the luminance distribution on the screen. So, in theory, if you get to editing it, you should be able to find a light source in your photo and boost it all the way to 1,000 nits or do something similar. Judging by that "image viewer" app the process might not be as straightforward, considering the way the Brightness slider in it affects the map among other things, but still it should be close to that. The problem is, so far I haven't found a way to get access to editing the heatmap metadata itself using free solutions. I guess Photoshop will have to come next... Either way, I'm afraid this "branch of photography" is in its infancy at the moment, so most likely you won't find much info on it. But if you'll have something dug up, please share as well.

Most likely the suite to use with HDR10 and such photos is also DaVinci Resolve - apparently it can export images including EXR and TIFF.

No worries!

West Coast, South Island New Zealand.

Thanks! It’ll be a little harder, mainly because of the dynamic range. You’ll potentially need two exposures. Try with the single first and worse case you’ll need to exposure blend.

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Thanks again Will have a good day today!

Thanks for the support. I don’t use a tripod in my work, check out some more of my videos. With a stabilised camera you can certainly shoot slow shutters handheld and get tack sharp images. Cheers!

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Thank you. Now I know. I will look at more it your videos.

Thanks mate. You don't look directly at the sun, it's still just going to be in your peripheral vision. No need to look straight at it. Keep in mind, when it's close to the horizon it is weaker due to the surface area it is dispersing light, so you can look at it briefly for sure. For focus, just check my other videos addressing that. Cheers :)

Thank you very much and I appreciate you getting back to me so quickly with this helpful information! Best wishes.@@WilliamPatinoPhotography

Hi Les. I primarily use Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) as shown in this video. This is what I use in the seascape course. However, as you can see in this video, the layout and design is almost identical as LR and it’s easy to transfer techniques between the two. Thanks :)

Thank you very much Will.

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography I was scrolling through the comments to find something about this. Is there a reason why you use ACR over LR or is it more habit or personal preference?

@@RossHa1e complete personal preference. I like just using and know one program and also prefer the simple layout of ACR. I also prefer to save my own raw files manually via a simple drag and drop, so I have no need for LRs cataloguing. As far as the art is concerned, there’s literally no difference and I can get the same results using either program, which is great from a teaching perspective.

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography I was hoping that was your answer. I use LR for my portraits and it makes more sense when dealing with a lot of images to use LR. I just had to make sure I wasn't making my landscape photography harder by not using ACR. Thanks for your time

It would help balance out the DR but they’re not practical for many scenarios like mountain scenes, caves etc because the subject will be darkened with the sky. Plus, it’s just more gear to carry and need to set up. Far easier to shoot for the highlights like I show in this video.

ND filter just darkens the whole scene, like wearing sunglasses. So, the camera will need a longer exposure. I’d still expose the same was as I have shown here, shooting for highlights. Keep in mind, if you are exposing too long, there’s the risk of the plants moving in the breeze and blurring.

Yeah mate. Check some of my processing videos which work both in PS and LR 👊🏻

Zero.

Same question

You could use filters so that doesnt happen right?

Bracketing can always capture more because you’re taking more than one frame, but you need to rely on more work in post. Most modern sensors are more than fine to expose to the right and reveal details in post. I haven’t bracketed for dynamic range in many years.

@@WilliamPatinoPhotography I have an old camera that has an HDR in-camera processing feature so will try that and see how that compares for backlight scenes with ETTR and One stop underexposing. Thanks for your feedback.

Hey, I made one for my newsletter subscribers which you can find here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GSnFQ3CnGb8.html

Wait until sunrise 😂🤪

You’d need to shoot two exposures and blend them. Pretty rare scenario with todays modern sensors, but if your camera is older with less dynamic range you’ll need to blend.

hehe, that's for sure!

Sorry. Yes, the highlights.

3:45

Thanks mate. I much prefer to work from the single file, given the dynamic range we have in the modern cameras. Way faster. I use to blend 2-3 files back in the day though, with the early digital cameras. Cheers.

This video is 2 years old and the recent ones have certainly evolved.

Obviously a figure of speech, probably wouldn’t have had the same impact if I mentioned hydrogen, helium, carbon, nitrogen and oxygen 😅