Do you have much access to bare root trees in the UK, Alexandra? In recent years I’ve tried to do more planting of bare root trees and it been very successful. It’s nice not just because you can examine the root system and take care of issue with crossing or potentially girdling roots before planting. But also because it’s easy to spot the root flare collar. The best part, of course, is that they are light and much easier to plant. There’s a small window here that you can plant them, about a month in early spring, but it’s nice when you can find them. Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott, who does a lot of research on long-held gardening practices, advocates bare rooting trees grown in containers, washing all the soil off, correcting root issues and then planting in native soil. It can be rather stressful for the tree so timing is to be carefully considered with that as well. Every tree I’ve planted in the several years, both containerized and balled and burlapped (do they do that there?) has soil piled way up the trunk. A Carpinus betulus that I planted last year had 10 inches of soil above the root flare. It is no wonder so many trees fail. Side note: I heard that Dr. Chalker-Scott is doing a series of talks for Garden Masterclass. That could be quite interesting.
I had the same problem with my potted liquidambar, it wasn't doing well then I investigated and found circling roots that's reaching for oxygen on the surface ! I purchased 2 bareroot trees here in UK 6-8 cm girth ( Amelanchier Robin Hill and Malus Rudolph ) , planted them approx 2 months ago and I can already see buds ! So happy ! So easy to plant as they're light and yes, definitely can spot the root flare ☺️
Sorry, I thought I'd replied to this, but it seems I haven't. Yes, we have a reasonably good selection of bare root trees and particularly roses. Great points about being able to spot the root system and and, of course, bare root is usually cheaper because transport in pots costs more and also the watering in pots means they're more expensive to raise at the nursery. But I think we could probably have more bare root than we do.
Great video. My late Father gave me one piece of advice - "never hurry when planting a tree, because you can't possibly do anything better with the time you've saved".
This is an extremely valuable video at the right time! I am thinking to plant some trees in my garden this spring but I have no experience at this. So now I know where to focus. Thank you very much!
The saying here is that you should dig $100 hole for a $10 tree to get good results. Also it helps if you have a handsome gardener like this one to help you. :). Thanks for all the good information. I have 10 bare-root saplings to plant - tried to give some away but no one wants them!
Love that even experience gardeners can admit their mistakes! I really like that you mentioned the 3 trees in a whole. I know of a person on here that talks and has done this and claims it always works.
Thank you. As I said, my experience of three trees in a hole is very limited so it may well work for some people and not for others. And perhaps with some tree varieties and not with others?
@@TheMiddlesizedGarden it very well might but it really makes more sense the way you explained it. One will always come out on top. I’ve seen this done most with birch and redbuds
This is a brilliant video, we are so lucky to have an expert talk about trees planting....so much important information which we should file away for future reference . Thanks so much for sharing this video...💝💐 Thanks so much to JButterworth for his treasured talk..
I've never heard you mention your helper Felix before. I am about your age and have felt a bit guilty that I needed my helper (Nic) to get everything done. Hurray for all the Felix and Nics out there! We appreciate you all so much.
There are two segments of This Old House which demonstrate how to plant a tree and mulch it properly. I would consider checking those videos out on YT, particularly as one of them demonstrates how to spot the root flare and how to water the tree initially during the planting process...
Great video and very informative reminding us how to plant and support our new trees. Hope you don’t mind me mentioning it Alexandria but Jamie said use an untreated stake which you explained you did, but he also said place the stake at a 45 degree angle into the prevailing wind! Your garden helper drove the stake upright parallel to the trunk of the tree which could also damage the roots 😱 x
BTW I really like the idea of scatter planting the silver birches. It creates the most lovely silvery glow, particularly in the winter, and helps tie together your space...
Such a useful video. I am definitely guilty of using too much well rotted manure & compost in the hole (without retaining much of the original soil), thinking I was doing the best for my plants by giving them lots of nutrition
I think trees need as frequent visits and checking as the veg garden or flowers. That was my mistake and my young tree was underwatered, plus I didn't clip the pesky shoots that grow from the trunk and they grew too large....these tips are so helpful, thank you so much. My next tree planting will be so much better for it 😊
Thank you for this! I planted a Quickfire Hydrangea Tree in my Minnesota garden this last summer , early fall. when I finished with the new garden project I realized my tree was planted too deep, but we were dealing with such unusually hot and dry season, I really didn’t want to move it . I will dig it up in the spring and cross my fingers😁
Thank you, Alexandra. This was a very timely video; I have two trees of my own I need to plant. I appreciate you dedicating this video entirely to planting trees correctly. Happy New Year, DA - Vancouver, WA
Thank you Alexandra 💙💙 for another very informative video. 14 years ago I hired a local nursery to plant one 10 foot tall American redbud, and as a result I have at least 15 seedlings sprout naturally here and there. Ive grouped them in various parts of the garden and now I have several small “forests” of redbud. Stunning in the spring, and easy to prune and care for.
Great advice (as always)! Maybe one of my newly planted crabapple trees had the "nursery made problem" with the trunk. I would never have thought about that, now I will have a proper investigation! Thanks for the help!
👍 For covering this topic Alexander. Recently I’ve been trying to find out how to resolve tree problems. Reasons being, I have a severely dieback Ash. Even had tree surgeons came round for their assessment and they couldn’t tell me anything as well as few other trees in garden showing various signs of stress. It’s been 2 yrs living in this house, so I’m still navigating my way, gardening wise. And, indeed, the trees were planted W-a-y too deep. As much as 6-10 inches. As a result, roots have girdled and literally strangling themselves. As for the Ash, the 2 big fat main trunk/branches, they grew in zig zag forms and have severely crossover one another! Not sure if it was cultivated this way. At the crossover point, the branches deeply compressed together and mis-shapened. I reckoned that was the cause of stress and dieback. Removed the lesser branch ( btw almost dead) hopefully this gives a chance for stronger branch to recover. I haven’t see any U.K. gardeners cover root girdling problems, only USA RU-vidrs. May be you can do one and show us how to save the tree too. Thank you for another good gardening guide as always. 🥰
Most helpful, Jamie Butterworth always so good, and the actual examples from your own garden were very instructive. I can think of two things of my own that I must go and check as soon as possible. Think of the number of trees you will have saved this week alone, Alexandra!
Excellent video. Really informative. I recently planted a snake bark maple tree and think it's slightly to low, so I scraped back a bit of soil to expose the little bit of buried trunk. Maybe it'll be best to wait until autumn time to dig up the tree and correctly reposition it?
I have an A. J. Downing book from the mid-1800's, and he grumbles about people planting trees too deep (says they look like lollipops) so I guess it's been happening for a long time. I generally plant trees and shrubs high, because after it rains a few times the soil settles and they end up lower than they were. But I admit that I almost never stake. Some years ago it was the fashion in the US to have a clump birch in your front yard. Nurseries would put 3 saplings in a pot and they would grow as one.
I think three in a hole does work for some people - just not any that I've ever seen! Maybe it's just one of those things with a very variable success rate. Nice if it works, though. Love the idea that people have been grumbling about trees being planted too deep for nearly 200 years.
@@TheMiddlesizedGarden The clump birch started out as 3 sticks about two ft. tall put together in a pot, and then grown on for a year or two at the nursery, so they became as one.
Hi ,I have been a professional gardener for about 50 years I have planted thousands of trees so it always makes me smile when I hear some of the advice given by EXPERTS when staking trees . they always tell you to put the stake in to face the prevailing wind.How can you have a prevailing wind in a typical garden setting? And the round hole verse's square hole debate is ridiculous.
I planted 5 last year. 1 in early Spring, before it broke dormancy and 4 in late Spring with leaves out. We went on to having record drought and heat all Summer. The first one is just fine. The others died with in a month, no matter how much water and mulch I gave them. He mentioned that in the video and that was my experience. ❤
Oh, I'm sorry to hear that even with your watering, they just couldn't survive. I suspect some summers are OK, but ours are increasingly hot and dry too now, so early spring is certainly a better time to plant.
This is all great advice, and I especially like hearing about what you’ve learnt through mistakes. It helps us all avoid the same. I can say I’ve had best luck (unplanned) with trees that needed moving and planting in the rain or just before a good rain. A spell of rainy weather is even better. Makes for muddy planting, but... Also, I’ve learned that Japanese Maples will not do well in windy areas, at least not with cold winters. Granted, the winter wind literally howls off the water at my place, so this is extreme. Good luck!
I raised a section of my yard 3 feet. I had to build a thick box around the existing tree with a drainage pipe to a lower area. It is very happy a decade later. Also if animals or string weed wacker damage around the circumference of the trunk it's going to die.
Very helpful Alexandra. Thank you. Please can you tell which variety of birch have you got? The trunk is sooooo white! I’m looking at planting one in my garden, but am undecided about which variety to go for.
Great video. The planting too deep is a very common problem.I have seen so many trees planted too deep. I have one which is deeper on one side and that side is failing. I am trying to remedy it but the tree has been in the ground too long. I wonder how many years it will survive.
It's a tragedy when cities plant trees and no one waters them, thinking they will just grow and then blame the tree as being inferior. When you think of all these beautiful trees that die needlessly it's important now more than ever to take care of them properly so that they thrive.
Sorry I should have given more details, it was a ratchet strap we used. It is lovely and broad and this takes a while, no person can bend a growing tree, hence the expression, bend the tree whilst it is young!! My son mentioned there are other ways to straighten the tree. We always admire the tools and nifty implements that are on the market in Britain for the Gardeners.
Next Saturday, I'll be doing a general update, and will cover the front meadow, although it really is a bit of a mess. I'm hoping to talk to a meadow expert to get back on track.
Wonderful video on the correct planting of our trees. It would be great to pick up how the transplanted tree has taken, I think it will thrive with a bit of extra loving care for a couple of months. It might no have survived now it can still "see" it partner and not feel so alone :)!!. We have an Acacia they are so nice as the leaf drop is nice it's like tea leaves so it forms a nice mulch but the tree was leaning over so badly, we drove a stack into the the grass about one and half meters away, tied a cotton strap around the top part of the trunk and pulled on it, as the tree is a living organ it was unmoveable, but it gradually gave way and we could correct the lean, but it is part of it's growing habit. We should study and see how the tree adapts, and make provision for that, but as you say, we just wish to get the tree planted regardless, well we learn the hard way. Your garden is looking great. Thanks for the information. Kind regards.
Thank you. And interesting way of correcting the tree. I'll definitely let you know how the tree responds to more light and space in the summer videos.
I found your video very helpful. However he tree you had replanted and staked appeared to have the stake upright instead of on a 45 degrees into the wind. I believe the first time I saw this 45 degree staking was on Monty Don's show.
I can understand the man not wanting water to quickly drain off the slope planted tree but a tree doesn't want to be standing in a pool, either. Maybe a few large rocks with natural spacing to slow the run off but leaving space for it to keep the water from standing. I wonder what the man you talked to would say about planting fruit trees. Orchardists in the US now say to plant them on a created berm or they'll eventually die. I've been around quite awhile and I can never remember anyone planting fruit trees except like how they plant any other tree. I wonder if the orchardists just have problems because they plant trees in an orchsrd as closely as they can get away with. ?
I suspect you're right - that if fruit trees are planted very close in an orchard, they need more water. That makes sense, though it's always a bit confusing if the professional growing advice and the private growing advice gets mixed in together.
I have a small to med size garden, I have been planting native trees that our council have been providing free , I have a crab apple in a pot that for the last 2 years have the white fluffy stuff over it, I made up a solution of natural washing up liquid and water that I spray on , my question is . will it harm the tree, will it eradicate the mites, is there a better solution? An episode on problems with fungus etc would very useful. I'm in the Midlands. Thankyou for this video, it is very helpful.
It sounds like woolly aphid, and here's some advice from the RHS about it: www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/woolly-aphid It doesn't mention washing up liquid and spray (I use this for ordinary aphids), but it does say that you can use a scrubbing brush to get them off. The RHS also says that if you avoid using pesticides then the predators should build up, and that it's not hugely harmful to the tree so it may be best to tolerate it. Healthy plants often resist pests and diseases better - it may be time to plant the tree in a larger pot or find a spot in the ground for it.
Most of the advice is good, other not so much. Good points: *round or square hole doesn't make a difference indeed * planting slightly higher is better than lower indeed with the root flare above soil level * keeping on top of watering is very good * mulching is the best you can doo (woody material has added benefit of cultivating mycorrhizal fungi that will colonize the tree's roots and help in growth) * staking for no longer than one season Wrong points: * adding anything to the planting hole/backfill. Mulching is all it needs. * keeping mulch removed from the trunk...an iffy one. No harm in being safe by doing it, but should not induce trunk rot
Jamie mentioned adding compost to the planting hole as an option, because he adds it personally, although he does say in the video that you shouldn't add much. Like you, organisations such as the RHS and the Woodland Trust don't add any compost to the planting hole. In terms of keeping mulch away from the trunk, it probably depends on how often and how thickly you mulch. I agree that if you only add one layer ever, it's most unlikely to induce trunk rot, but some people mulch heavily and often, so it's a 'better safe than sorry' piece of advice.
I have two Japanese Bloodgood maples (7ft tall, 1.5 inch trunk diameter) in very large concrete pots flanking an entrance on the street sidewalk, I planted them with the root flare at the soil level. Now 3 years later the tree level has dropped 3 inches and I want to raise the trees and add more soil underneath to bring them higher in the pots. What is the best time of year to do this.
They are Acanthus mollis Rue Ledan, a less invasive form of the purple tipped acanthus mollis. I love them especially as they have beautiful seed pods throughout the winter.
Great video, but now I'm worried about my trees. We moved to our house a little over a year ago and the previous owner planted 9 or 10 trees in the front lawn, so all the trees we have are young. A few of them had a lot of suckers on them, which I've recently removed. A couple of them had plastic labels around the trunk and two of them still have the stakes on them (I'm going to take those off right now). The apple trees had cedar rust last summer, which I plan on treating them for starting this spring. I am worried that they might have been planted too deep after watching this video (I need to go out and check). I don't really want to dig them up though because I don't want to damage the long tap roots. Could I just dig some of the dirt away around the collar?
You could see the flare of the trunk above the soil in the olive trees in Jamie's yard - I can't comment on what they do in Spain - for example, perhaps if soil is very dry, as it would be in Spain, then it would be less damaging? People do things differently in different places for different reasons, so maybe it would be worth asking a Spanish olive grower? Interesting, though, thank you.
Sorry, I got confused! It's Acanthus mollis 'Rue Ledan' which is a less invasive form of Acanthus mollis. I'd originally put the prunus at the beginning of the video, then I switched it, sorry about that.
Dear Alexandra, I follow your channel, watch your videos, find them inspirational. But in this one , where you are sitting, the walls are covered in artificial grass!! I think you convey a very negative image, its plastic, just more plastic..... Fake lawn should be banned in the UK!
I appreciate that fake lawn is not appropriate for gardens and I frequently remind people that it is not 'no maintenance' as it gets weeds and has to be cleaned. It also isn't helpful for soil diversity, wears out after 10-20 years and can't be recycled. But I don't have a problem with people using for it walls, roof gardens, balconies and interiors. In fact, I rather agree with you that it should be banned for gardens, but I always think the whole is more important than any one element, because there are a lot of factors. You could have a really quite wildlife friendly and sustainable garden with a small patch of fake lawn and a garden without fake lawn that is not sustainable or wildlife friendly in any other way. But I'll keep the issue under review.
Thank you, Alexandra, for such good advice in planting a tree; never bury the trunk, as it will rot. I get a little confused on planting depths, as I have been planting both sapling birch trees, apple and other fruit trees, and several shrub and climbing roses the past few springs. The apple trees and the roses are grafted to separate root stock, and the bulbous knot where they connect I have tended to leave exposed, not wanting to rot the trunk. With the shrub roses, I have heard Michael Marriott of David Austin Roses and other rosarians recommend burying the bulbous knot, as, for one thing, it prevents an errant shoot from the root stock sprouting up and forming a different variety of rose from the grafted variety. Sometimes in my apple trees I sees shoots sprouting from below the graft as well, which I just trim off. But I still get confused if I should bury the bulbous knot of the graft, as I'm not sure if it's "root" or "trunk." So I plant trees and shrub roses slightly differently; with trees, I plant the knot bobbing the surface of the soil as the start of the trunk, but with roses I bury it, and assume the trunk will be fine as that seems to be the expert advice I've heard, and with shrub roses, unlike trees, they seem to sprout roots from any part of the trunk you bury, and can be propagated with cuttings, that will root, again, unlike trees. Where as buried tree trunks don't root, they just rot.
