That finish turned out really well. I’ve never used a trailing plow. I recently took up completion plowing here in eastern Canada. Plowing with a 135 massey Ferguson and a Kverneland hydrein ME frame
Similar idea with a mounted plow. The next step you can do with your KV is raise the front bottom on the final pass to take dirt away from the front bottom.
Awesome video 👍🏼, I envy you guys with the big tractors and big fields 😎, I have a a two acre lot and a 1957 Farmall Cub a lawnmower/snowplow tractor but dang do I want to plow up the front lawn just for the fun of it 🤣
That was a very helpful video! I was surprised that your M could stop and start plowing without any trouble I thought once that plow was in the ground don’t stop for nothing and especially with three bottoms! I have never seen a start to finish plot plowed thank you Sir!🇨🇦😀
Thank you Keith! I don’t worry about the clutch in these little antique tractors, I do takes extra steps starting out in bigger tractors to protect the clutch.
John this was a very informative video and I thank you for taking the time to produce it. I've watched all your videos and have picked up a few tips along the way which will definalty come in handy when setting up at the local plow days I attend. My father-in-law was a big advocate for plowing during his farming career, in the fall even after he retired we would plow for an afternoon on the land he rented out just to scratch the itch and exercise our old equipment. One thing he always talked about was plowing in your dead furrow but he never showed me how it was done and has since passed away. Is that something you are familiar with and could possibly make a future video on?
Thank you! Filling in the dead furrow is a fairly imprecise and ugly job. The gist is to make a round with the plow to throw loose soil back into the dead furrow. Set the plow to maybe half depth while trying to "taper out" of the dead furrow. A semi-mount plow works nice for this; you are doing the taper with 5 bottoms rather than 2 bottoms, for example, and you can control the depth front and rear to do a nice job tapering away from the dead furrow. A one-way disc also works nice for this because it can cut the clods up and won't plug up with loose residue.
Nice job John I see you still got the touch for plowing. Been a few years since I have seen ya. Plowed against ya in 2015 at the ipm at Mitchell Ontario Canada
Cheer~~a large farming implement with one or more blades fixed in a frame, drawn by a tractor or by animals and used for cutting furrows in the soil and turning it over, especially to prepare for the planting of seeds.😊
I’ve got two Kvernland 3 point hitch 3 x 14” plows. I’d like to get one of them in top shape, but I’m not sure which one is the better design. The first one has leaf springs to trip, and the plow is overall long. The second has coil springs to trip, and it’s a lot shorter.I’m new to plowing and plows. Any guidance would be appreciated. My ground is mostly clay, and not many stones. It is also rolling hills in some places. Thanks!
I think I can picture the models you’re talking about. If you had rocks I would say the leaf spring reset would be better, but that’s not an issue for you. I bet the leaf spring plow would have more trash clearance if you’re turning under a bunch of residue. Do they have the same bottoms? If they are different, might have to try each one to see how you like what the moldboard is doing. You also might want to research what shares cost.
Good eye and good question. Yes, there’s about two furrow widths unplowed in the middle. On the farm, you could drive over to the right farther on the second run to plow more of it but then you are making a taller crown. The right answer is to plow an opening split like what is done in the Small Plow class: you plow a shallow round throwing out to create the opening split. Then you place the crown on top of that. Looks the same when you are done, but it’s all plowed underneath.
