I made it a habit to be overkill on kickers and bracing on things like this. Ive had too many close calls and now I put tons of kickers on everything that is prone to blowouts. Advice I would give any concrete guy is to spend the extra few minutes and add the kickers. Its much easier to add them and strip a few extra forms than it is to have to rebuild a wall and shovel the concrete back into it.
Yea this was a great learning experience for me and hopefully for others as well. I'm so used to forming regular slabs that the weight of the curb was very surprising for me. I'll definitely be spending an extra few minutes on bracing next time!
@@OdellCompleteConcrete Yeah man. We've all had it happen. I had a 7 step stoop start to bow on one side. scared the holy hell out of me. and when it fully blows out it goes fast. good on your guy for seeing it early. Nice looking curb in the end.
Awesome, thanks. Love your work I have learnt so much, just poured my first 4 metre footing last november for a client and had a box frame and stakes and level and rebar and about 770 pounds of concrete with a mini electric concrete mixer, all by myself, it went smooth like butter. Even made a plastic sheeting cover offset from ground for it because of rain, it set beautifully. I did pour into plastic sheeting mould however, so it would set as a mass and not bind with the ground as such. I learnt all that from your channel. Great job it looks fantastic your curb.
I respect that your real and don't try to hide your mistakes like most of the other channels would. There is nothing a 100 percent about concrete that's real
Nice recovery! 👏 I was skeptical about those lil wire ties to the wall and not having just some 2x4 kickers, but yall got it done nonetheless and you learned for the next one 🤙 great job
Great work and recovery. I had a blow out on 5 foot high against a wall . The wire helped a lot. Used a tractor to hold and shaved after . It happens Great stuff guys
That curb turned out beautiful! I love the end with the three corners meet up, one down, one long and on into the wall ending it. Shaving down turned out good. Would have sucked to wait to dry and friend it down that much, then it would have needed stone or tile or stucco to hide the grind down, but good catch and quick fix. Amazing work!!!
Beautiful. Why was it not necessary to 'anchor' the curb to the block wall? Did the white plastic fence end up being 'the form' at the 'end' of the curb?
What are you guys using to spray the wood?? ...tramsmission fluid?? We have used tramsmission fluid and it works wonders for cement mold release and it does stain the concrete once washed after.
Tyler, I have always wondered how long concrete has to sit before you can pull the form without having the concrete sag? You’re a lucky man, I would love to know the trade your dad taught you.
Hey! I think it varies slightly with every load but for this one we waited 3 hours to strip it, it dried a bit slower even though we had 1% accelerator in it.
What about expansion where the wall When it pulls away slightly over time Water will start going down I am a concreter and plumber in Australia I feel they will have issues with this
Hi Young blood I been doing concrete for 40 plus years. That long and height of wall I would have used forms. More durable for the concrete bro. Nice work Young blood. Stay safe
When I had my foundation poured, they had the metal forms, and these guys were moving 100 of them and one was in my way and I had to move it. I couldn’t believe how damn heavy this thing was, so don’t get in a fight with one of these concrete guys
Man, great recovery! Good thing Juan noticed that thing inching out. I gotta ask though... Why screw the tapcons into the mortar rather than the actual brick in the first place? Maybe I'm missing something here, but mortar is typically structurally weaker than the bricks/blocks it's holding together. Sure, it's easier to hide a screw hole in mortar vs. the blocks, because you can fill them in with more mortar... but in this case the blocks and the mortar are the same color, so that's not a big deal. I'd take some small, off color holes vs. a blown out wall any day
Thanks for watching! the blocks didn't have any concrete in them so the grout was the stronger option here. we tried going into the block but the blocks and the screws weren't staying when we went to tighten the wire.
tapcons seem to always pull out of the joints like this. they hold quite will if you can get the screw in the web of the block. really no such things as over bracing! nice work boyz
The listed tensile load for an anchor (3/16” Tapcon for example) is not very high with 1” or 1 1/2” of embedment. Given the spacing you used along with what appears to be an slightly oversized drill hole in a CMU you had the luck of the Irish with you! I was very surprised they did not all pull out. I will say however that your final finish looks very good.
I would think unless whomever owns those pipes has an easement from the owner (or previous owner) of the property you can make them reroute them or pay you for the usage of your propety. 🤔
If it was my property and those were not in the land deed and not in the title for easement, then I would go to the title insurance for them to pay to move them or something.
Did the particular mix of the concrete you used allow you to remove your forms quicker ? Being it was more of a vertical pour. Plus working the surface afterwards like the vertical spacing lines and shaving the bow out. Beautiful job guys.
Came out nice,we all had form bow on us misjudging... But thats not a blow out i had reminder to over brace we had forms open on bottom..[thats a blow out].. We recovered but was just a reminder for us not to be lazy on setup
I have a small project, 1.5 yard of concrete. I am going to use quikrete 60lb and a mixer. I remember u mentioned u don't like this concrete mix. Can I ask u why and if there is a way to make the mix better? Tks
I have done a retaining wall with a curve I have put in a lot of 1/2” rebar and put a stamped on outside same time, it was overkill and still holding up
Stakes/kickers. every 16inches -2ft depending i. What youre building, concrete is heavy. I highly recommend 2ft and 3ft steel round steaks. Ive had the same ones for the last 15 years. They have them in 4ft too. Also some turnbuckles with the nailplate and 2x4 attachtment end
@@OdellCompleteConcrete yeah here in the Pnw for our typical 1 1/8 form system with 2x4s, we only put one kicker with a turbuckles on it at every seam/splice. It always holds. Done it one 18 ft tall walls 60 ft long. Typically every 8ft or whereever a seam is, adjustable so you can straighten the wall out after you get mud in place. I like them, big sense of security and you cant give the excuse of leaving a wall crooked or struggle to get it straight, just a cpl turns with a hammer. Sometimes we if we get a bow we just add another. I highly recommend every concrete contractor to get them. Framers use them too for plumbing their walls
Very nicely done. Please remember: "Juan and I" when starting a sentence, "Juan and me" when ending one. Other than that, excellent pacing and storytelling and very little repetition, if any.
@@OdellCompleteConcrete looked like an outline for a pool and they had to move to the porch. Yeah that's too close for me. I'd have then come move the pipes because I have a pool going in and approved permits to start. So they need to move or pay the fees of the contractor for having to move equipment and what not between jobs. Basically if they pushed back I'd ring my lawyer and it would get done asap. Lol. Start threatening of rent for using my land for xx years (find out when it was put down) and such. I'd be a very annoying thorn in their sides. :).
