Here I show you how to pre-shade using candy colors. It's a super easy technique that yields great results. You can use any type of paint for this, no need to use what I used here.
Not to 'throw shade' but if you are looking to do B&W pre-shading for candies, start that step after priming and before metalizing. Do the black just the same but then use some white on low pressure at the highlight spot and work your way out getting a gradient, use knowledge derived from prior B&W metal spoon studies for proportions and how each metal differs from the different bases. then apply an even coat of the metal and transparent. this will give you a much more realistic volume. It still ignores real shadowing which involves color shading and light source locating but gives a bit of the hyperrealistic that lets you change poses without concern for shadows. Love that you are putting these videos out. Best of luck.
Got back into making things during the pandemic period. Been doing helmets mainly but recently started a few 3d printed mandalorian and tusken raider pieces. Your tutorial on this and the regular Tamiya colours for airbrushing have been simply excellent. A thanks from across the pond in the UK
@@barbatosrex9473 no worries. Need to do the burnt metal effect on the tuning fork part of a mandalorian 3d printed rifle. I knew about the tamiya clears but your technique has given me a big help. Will have a watch of more of your stuff. Keep up the excellent tutorials
NO WAYYYY!!!! Congrats on the airbrush!!!! I loooooove those airbrushes!! Be sure to keep us up to date on how she runs! Those are some nice preshading jobs. I can’t wait to do my next candy paint job, and revisit my technique.... keep up the great work my man!!!
looks really cool effect just purchased the Iwata Hi Line HP-CH 0.3mm, go to save for the Iwata Smart Jet Pro Auto Compressor and extraction booth i was going to go with the infinity airbrush same as yours couldnt decide, cant wait to start using it for cool effects on my models thanks for the inspiration awsum video yet again Rex :)
Hmmmm I could see shading in gold see what that looks like. For your test pieces you should look in dollar stores find robots or even those cheap sets of construction equipment to use as test subjects at a buck can't be beat. I found a big cheap plastic robot toy at a yard sale and I practiced on that thing when I first got my airbrushes. I painted stripped it down repainted it so many times trying out new things I lost count. I still have it around somewhere I might have to find it get creative and kit bash it turn it into something splendid for all the help it gave me.
Nice but I wouldn't be using black for pre-shading. Use a darker shade of the top-coat colour. A darker red/brown for the Candy Red and a dark blue for the Candy Blue. Pre-shading in back is much to stark and there's almost now blending from dark to light areas. An alternative might be to do your pre-shding in black, but apply it first, underneath your candy silver base coat. The shade would be a lot more subtle that way.
For candy color pre-shading; especially on metallic background, you may want to use Clear Smoke so that it looks more subtle but I suppose you maybe just trying to exaggerate the effect so that it is easier to see. Amazing Airbrush but I find the Infinite quite unpractical though... I have one, dont really use it because it looks sooo pretty hence I find myself spending more time wiping it than using it 🤣.... bought an Evolution as my daily driver not too long after. If you can get use to controlling Airflow by how much you press the trigger down, you dont even need the airflow valve.
I had to send it back. My finger kept hitting the pai t bowl and was affecting my using it. I'm still shopping for a H&S airbrush that will fit my finger. I will get one soon
It will be hard in the Vallejos to get something like the tamiya clears. If you took the gloss medium that Vallejo makes, and add it to some of their transparent colored paints, you'd be in the ballpark.
@@element4studios Thank you for the heads up! Would you recommend a different brand that might be closer? I'm looking for something in a dropper bottle
@@mitchhoney2862 Ammo by Mig has clear colors and I just tested Inspire brand H2O clear colors and they're great. Search Inspire H2O paint and you'll find them
Its better when you paint red the shadow use brown/dark brown. When blue the main color put dark purple as a shadow and the shadow depent on the main color. Sorry im not try to be smart or anything just share my experience. Thnks for the vidio and nice ab i hv it too.
Really sucks that the clear blue paint cap looks like a really amazing blue that I would want to use but after you see it in action like in your video its not how the cap looks at all. it has a lot of teal in the color
Nope, the black hard edg8ing people call pre-shading is so wrong I'm surprised it's lasted so long in the hobby. Shading is done by light and a model will shade itself just nicely depending on the light angle. Pre-shading should be done with the same color darkend 2-3 shades over the base color then color cleared over it for a more natural look. You'll never see vehicles normally outlined in black to produce an effect unless it was done purposely. With the black the darkened edges look unnatural. Great video regardless and love that new brush you have.
