I have tried a lot of different things to print ABS. Again and again I had problems with warping. Inspired by this video, I now sealed the bottom of my print head with tape for a test - the warm air can only escape upwards through the ventilation slots that were already there by default. I have achieved in this way the best print result with ABS on my Anycubic. Thanks for the tip!
After around 20 fail prints, i test your duck tape tip, result? Almost perfect 3d print. THANK YOU! I really didn't even think that air flow would be causing problem, i'm really thankful.
I just wanted to say thank you so very much for your suggestion. I've been struggling to print ABS for a long while. So much so that I gave up on it. As soon as I implemented your idea, I was able to produce 4 prints, one after another, and varying in size. Cheers!
As crazy as this technique sounds it actually makes a HUGE difference! I am amazed because upping hotend temp alone was not alleviating my delamination issues. I now print ABS at 260 with bed at 110 with a similar foil deflector and it works like a dream in my E3 Pro.
@@probablyblue426 PTFE is typically heat resistant up to around 500 F. Plus that's a risk I'm willing to take if it improves print quality and consistency.
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar, and a judge of good horse flesh. One thousand thanks and well wishes for this incredibly helpful tip. One roll of aluminum tape later and I am no longer pulling my hair out while failing to print ABS.
This was really a game changer for me. Thank you very much ! The air currents blowing down from the hot end fan on the print part really do play a big role in making the ABS layers expand and contract, causing layer seperation eventually.
A Very valuable Video, I have been trying to print ABS on my ender 3 pro for a while now because I want to print the Voron parts but was never able to because the prints would never stick to the bed. I followed your video and used single sided Aluminum sticker tape and sealed the nozzle from below and now I am able to print ABS finally! Thanks a ton for the tip.
This was useful to me, thank you. I printed a PLA cover that I add to act like the tape you had. When printing ABS I add the cover and I have success every time. I did crank up the temperature a bit and it works perfectly. Thank you
That was what I did before I made an enclosure for my Ender 3. Adding a draft shield in the slicer also helped. The enclosure was the best because it made the printer quieter and captured the odor. Thanks for the video.
I tried your modification and it worked like a charm for ABS. I don't have to use glue or spray. Just clean and level the bed and the print comes out perfect. Thank you for sharing your idea.
I did not think about aluminium tape, thank you. I also put some small cardboard box next to the bed on the side to avoid the cool air hitting the print.
I'm currently 80% trough a print on an unmodified mega zero with no heatbed and printing at 235c with a raft extending 15mm past the part with zero airway and it's PERFECT. Raft shows a little warping at the corners but the part is untouched.
I accidentally buyed ABS+, it was mixed up with PLA boxes. Succesfully printed it with tips from this video. I would like to point out that might be a BIG ISSUE with ENDER 3. Cooling fan for motherboard enclosure is connected with part cooling fan that you turn off when printing ABS. That also turns off motherboard fan and a bet it get toasty in there. I cut off connector of motherboard fan and connect the wires directly with extruder fan that's always on. To my knowledge all Ender 3's have that issue, even V2.
Just found your channel and I also use my ender 3 to print parts for my S2K. What are the odds!?! Will definitely be using your methods. Best of luck to you and your S!!!
I built an enclosure to print ABS, PC and was doing so successfully until the heat destroyed the drivers on my BTT mother board. Will definitely give this a try.
Thank you very much for uploading this tip. I'm currently trying this out on my Ender-3 in combination with the experimental setting [Draft shield] in Cura, although i'm using duct-tape(just what i had lying around) to block off the airflow instead which seems to be working so far(fingers Crossed). I Actually gave up on printing with ABS in the past as my success rate was very low. My prints would either split between the layers and/or warp to the point of falling off the build-plate. The successful prints i had with ABS were small in height and "fast" to print (1-3 hours). - Tip: Enable Draft-shield in Cura under advanced settings->Experimental. This Creates a thin wall around object and helps keeping the temp up a little bit better than without anything :)
I use a small USB FAN plugged into an old phone USB charger to speed the cooling process for the bed. You could also experiment with turning down the bed temp minutes prior to the print completing. I've asked Cura to add that to their software so that we can set something like -3 to -6 minutes before print completes, turn down bed temp... In an impossibly ideal world, just seconds after completing your print you would hear the POP of it breaking free!
thats awesome i have problems since 5years to print ABS with my ender i have rewrite the cura profile and use now the tape ! works perfekt now on the original glasbet thanks
If i print out some thing for this, shouldn't i just find a thing for the parts fan that moves the air outwards rather than suffocating the fan or should i just cover the whole ducking thing up with plastic? because suffocating the airflow instead of redirecting it doesn't sound like the best option.
i always use a brim no matter the material. it only takes a minute or 2 to print and as long as you let the bed cool the part pops right off. Nothing worse than coming to check on a 2 day print and it broke adhesion 2 hrs before it finished the part is jammed in between the printer arm and the bed and the y and x axis motors are skipping on their belts.
my printer just goes till 100 the bed heat, not goes over. what could be? And a sugestion, could you make for us some project where we can download like instead of the ribbon, a cover made in 3d? would be great
Im very glad i came across your video i would never thought the fan would be the reason i always thought it was from the room air flow from hvac my set up is two ikea tables on top of one another with insulation foam boards to close it off and yet that was the reason that fixed it all.
Do you print closer towards the pillar because you are assuming it will be more rigid than if the part was centrally located on the bed? if so thats a good idea I may carry on.
Is this using the stock hot end? I'm prepping my CR-10S to print ABS: enclosure, PEI bed, and I think I'll give this trick a try. I was starting to shop for an all-metal hot end, but maybe I don't need to.
I was wondering if I should block the hotend cooling fan from blowing air down. I thought it wouldn't of mattered to be honet as it was still warmish. I'll try it tomorrow!!
That’s an awesome idea. Thank you. To prevent it from crunching when it auto homes, have you considered redoing it to where the airflow exits from the front instead?
Im going to try this this weekend and im really hoping this works, first time with abs and im getting horrible wrapping and hard as hell to get off the bed
I hope you swapped to an allmetal hotend because the PTFE tubing will start to burn/melt inside your stock hotend at abs printing temperatures and release toxic gasses aswell...
I tried this, also made enclosure with 40-50°C inside, printing on glass with small dots, doing brim 8mm... Still warping. Big warping with 250°C nozzle and 100°C bed better with 235°C nozzle and 110°C bed but still slightly warping. Any ideas?
What temperature did you set the nozzle at? I'm having issues with my ender 3 V3 KE..it keeps adjusting the nozzle and bed plate temperature by lowering both, after I set the nozzle at 240 and the bedplate at 90-100. Creality told me to use a different slicer to get both temperatures to stay fixed. I were using Creality print and Creality slicer.
Hi, thanks for the tips. But i think i almost gave up with abs, i try to print (with your tips) 15x6cm with 4.5cm high it tooks almost 11 hours but still shrink at all corners of object. What do you experieced print abs with glue stick? Thank you, great video.
My problem with ABS and ASA is not the first layer or bed adhesion, problem is it warps off of the bottom support 😢 tried everything even an enclosure will try this next
Mine sticks at first then 20 mins into it the print separates off the bed and spaghetti everywhere. I’ve printed the same part in pla and it prints just fine. I had a trash bag over the printer itself.
He's got part cooling off but getting air from the hot end fan. I'm sure someone has modeled up a mount just for this that he could print. A hero me or satsana might be better, have never really checked for air flow on the nozzle with fans off on mine
About this Thema, i agree with you. That improve a lot in regards to have warping with abs. I accidentally found another God way to avoid warping and it consists in have a very thin first layer. Almost transparent by reducing the extrusion flow and layer height for the first layer. But you will need a very good leveled bed. Once you can print this such as almost transparent first layer the warping will disappear forever! Maybe 0.05 first layer height. With 50% less extrusion material.
I found that a mixture of wood glue and powder sugar makes a very good and sticky way of making ABS prints stick to my glass plates. 50-50 mixture with a bit of water, apply a thin layer and let it dry before you print.
You will be most successful running ABS at the higher side of the materials range. Personally I print ABS at 260. A lot of benefits and very little drawbacks to printing ABS hot and slow.
Why are you not easy plug the fan plug off and the fan wouldn't blow anything anymore 🤔 or you could make a switch cable plug between the fan so you could switch the fan on and off for the different filaments. 😊
@@NAUS2K Hehe. I'm like brand new to printing. So I'm just looking for stuff to print now, especially a printer upgrade XD But thinking practically, using tape is probably the most sensible, since I won't be switching from PLA or ABS. You'd be using ABS for a while before switching to PLA So in essence, tape solution is the best :D
I was printing something for 8 hours, it jammed in my sleep and I woke up to a spaghetti mess. Now the abs barely flows, I think my nozzle may be clogged.
What are your print settings, I just got an ender 3 to print car parts and also use the glass bed that came with it but can’t get my prints right :( I’ve gone as far as building an enclosure for it to stay up to temp and sealed from the elements but no dice
you should ask the place where you bought the printer for a 4.2.7 it will be silent most of the time they will send you this one for free if you have issues printing
The problem is the down wash of cooler air from the hotend fan. I printed in enclosure and still got warping and separation until I isolated the hotend.
What software are you using to design your parts?… I’m used to using solid works… so the software that comes with this printer I really haven’t dug into much yet…
Im currently struggling with the first lot of layers being like over extruded. Otherwise the rest of the print is okay. What's your hot end and bed temperature and initial print settings for this? Any advice on this?
Bed is maxed at 110C, nozzle I believe is 235C. Getting the first layer perfect is critical. I am super ocd about making sure the bed is level and a lot of the time If I see the first layer isn’t sticking I’ll jog the Z axis down a small amount which helps plant that first layer better
Hey man, do you calibrate the bed when it's hot? because if not, when you calibrate and then heat, things expand and the calibration does not work, that happened to me, all the first layer over extruded.
