Additional advice: It is deffinetely worth it to match up your printers resolution (dpi) with the resolution of the printed document. That way you increase the sharpness of the print by a lot!
@@ghrobbs yes. Ideally you will want to set the printer to the highest DPI possible and create a matching file on for example Photoshop with the same dpi
@BOABModels Me too, I build mostly muscle cars & trucks. I wish there were more manufacturers who made a wider selection of "drivers & passengers." I've been using "Americans Diorama" figures lately.
Great video, very informative and helpful. I finally have a need to make some custom decals so I have decided to take the dive. Have a great day. -David
Great video, really well presented ! I know you mentiomed it in your video, but how do you go about printing white text decals to go on clear perspex - any advice would be a great help - many thanks !
Thanks Thomas, been waiting for this! I have made some decals, but my problem was finding and then manipulating images! I was trying to use Excel, and trial and error! Looks like I will be better learning Publisher.🥴 Thanks again, very helpful!
Amazon has a decal paper from a company called Koala. It is a no clear sealer decal paper. I was very skeptical, as the ink on my printer runs if you look at it with watery eyes. but not only did the ink not run, it dried in minutes. The only issue I had was the corners sometimes want to come up as it dries, and you just need to hit it with some more setting solution. It cuts out the entire step of clear coating which saves money on clear, and the clear causes my ink to run no matter how long i let it dry (Canon eco tank printer ink runs really bad).
That is a very usefull tutorial Thomas. Always wondered how do they do it. No you have showed me i will try it out. BTW after applying clear coat,are the decals still flexible enough to get them on uneven surfaces?? I know you used decal solution and setter. But what happend with the decal when i am not clearcoating them?? Will the colors run,or do i get smudges??
Thank you, Jan. Yeah, they can flex a bit for example the mechanics had folds in their uniforms and the decals went onto those. Yes, if you don't clear coat the decal, the ink will run. If you leave them in the water too long that can happen too.
@@BOABModels Thanks a lot for this very fast awnser Thomas. Then i will even not try it without clearcoat. Ordering the decal paper tomorrow here in my local printer sale shop. Then i can build a 1-24 tractor and trailer with Eddie the trooper from Iron Maiden. A new world is opening up for me,thanks to you. Have a mighty nice sunday
How about cutting the paper into quarters first, approximately photo-paper sized so they will fit into the respective paper tray that many inkjet printers have these days? And then changing the paper size in your layout program accordingly?
Good video, sure it will help a lot of people around there! Is there any way to make custom transparent decals (for example, Marlboro in a clear background)?
Thanks a lot! I maybe didn't make it clear, but yes, if you use transparent decal paper you can do this but it needs to be on light colours. In the bit right at the end of the video I used a transparent Marlboro decal on the figure's torso.
What do you paint on to the mirror del with the paintbrush before you apply the decal? Is it just water? I’ve seen some others using an adhesive but can you just use water?
You can just use water but I'm using micro sol here. There are other setting solutions such as Mr Mark Setter which I've tried as well. It helps with the adhesion.
I try to print on decal, but for light colors i have a problem: when apply the decal it show the color under the decal. Example: if i print yellow and put the decal over a red paint model you can see the red under the decal. Or a light yellow is worse, the decal is almost invisible. Not sure what is my problem. Could be a print setup ? Thank you
Yeah, yellow is too pale on the darker red. If you want to do yellow, get white backed decal paper and cut the decals out. It's a challenge, but can be done.
You say "Jupiter Cards" but I Googled it and finally found you mean "Jupiter Crafts". There's no link to the paper you used in your description. Where did you buy it? I can only see a European supply. Thank you.
Hi. I think the brand I bought is no longer made unfortunately. I bought it from Amazon in the UK so I'm not too sure about non-European stocks but I'm sure if you look on Amazon or similar, you'll find something.
decal paper you buy around is infinitely lower in quality compared to decals you buy, I want to find out how companies produce them and replicate the process in smaller scale, probably they do pad printing :/
NICE! I wonder what the pro companies do to allow you you handle theirs more? I was going to buy a bunch of toyhax decals, then thought to research how to make my own.
Glad you found it useful. I assume that the printers they use can also target where the decal film needs to go meaning they don't need to be cut out individually.
My Canon Inkjet printer is not helping with printing my decals. The ink doesn’t catch the paper and regardless how many times I spray them with varnish, when I dip them in water the smudge or fade away. Any advice? My printer is a really good Canon that has the photo option which I did not use as it will need to be of a certain small size
I'm sorry to hear that you're having problems. I would change the paper quality to photo or premium glossy, which should keep the size normal. What kind of paper are you using?
@@BOABModels i got mine from Ebay, inkjet printer waterslide paper, something similar to the one you use. But no where near your quality. Love your work. Will give it a try again and try and change the paper and see what happens. Thanks for the advice buddy. Keep up the good work.
