These are secrets of the trade, can’t show noobies right off the bat about tank/stool... I still want to laugh at the noobs that buy those mini stools when I visit the suppliers!...
You can bleed hoses into the system quite simply, it just takes a bit of planning. As you are getting close to the end charge, turn off the tank and add only refrigerant from the hoses. If you need a bit more, just feed from a hose full of refrigerant at a time until the charge is set. Nice set up having all the T and P inputs at your fingertips on the laptop. The old saying - if it was easy anyone could do it - will now be - with Jim's system, anyone CAN do it. LOL
Cool set up man....nice to see other master technicians taking time to help somebody else. I see a lot of installation mistakes with them z coils man....
Love the app. Use it everyday. Looked like your txv bulb was contacting the liquid line under that rag. Probably why the valve is wide open giving lower sh.
Great video Jim. Would like your thoughts of the importance of using a liquid low side charger when charging R410a in liquid through the suction valve. I've heard various opinions on it and would like to get that of a certified badass. Thanks again for all your doing to progress our industry!
Please show us how to do the electrical in the app. I know how to do condenser fan but not evaporator fan and please explain power factor. I'm sorry I just love the knowledge you share with us for free thank you 🙏🏽
You can't because of the inverter. The unit will ramp up based on what it feels (with the thermistors). It would be very difficult to charge a system based of your gauge pressure.
Thanks a lot Jim for such video, Can you please tell me what kind of temperature sensors we need to connect with this app and how these sensors will connect? By Bluetooth? Please tell me where from i can purchase?
Also man 20 minutes of charging. Usually takes me about an hour on Goodman/Amana. That’s what we install. I’ve seen from start up a charge go from .5 subcool all the way to 8 (recommended subcool) after sitting for 45 minutes watching the thing slowly climb.
Sight Glasses are a normal component used in REFRIGERATION and AIR CONDITIONING commercially. I think they would help if used more in RESIDENTIAL use also....
Thank you for the video. I am still getting familiar with mQ. I love it though. I would like to see a video of charging a heat pump during winter. A real one and using mQ.
@@measureQuick Yes, I went by the manufacturer's table at 25°F OT. I got it as close as I could. Schrader cores were loose and I lost some Refrigerant. I am still monitoring. I have all the probes now in order to keep measuring. However, the videos I have seen so far, are not as informative as I would like. Goodman just tells you to get the SH at 5°F. I will keep measuring and wait till summer time.
@@CHOMAHOMA So that would likely be superheat controlled by the outdoor metering device. Make sure that you are measuring on the true suction between the reversing valve and compressor for both temperature and pressure. Add gas very slowly if you have an accumulator.
@@measureQuick OK. It is a pain to get to the Suction line to take the temperature with the probe. Trane units are the best considering that aspect. Thank you for your advice.
He purged the hose...but he didn’t have the tank open, hard to imagine he really purged the hose that way....and I didn’t see him purge it when he opened the tank
20:15 "make sure you have good airflow-" Since this is a test setup, you made no mention about restrictive ductwork. In a field test, static pressure probes could supply information about the system external static pressure. This should have been mentioned and explained. Otherwise, it was a great presentation.
We made an updated version that addresses that. Thanks for the feedback! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JqqHK3H7bxg.htmlsi=uYR0MFJNTrSQVET_
Obviously u Master HVAC man u have fancy equipment not for beginners or people trying done ac work thanks for share u video but I lost my way after 2 minutes into video
Not necessarily, with tools like measureQuick the design temperature differences are calculated and we can diagnose problems at much lower temperatures. You can easily work at temperatures between 55 and 65° with confidence.
wouldnt such a low superheat indicate liquid refrigerant returning back to the compressor? which in turn would shorten the life of the compressor, location of the txv bulb should be corrected from being so close to the liquid line and of course insulated.
I saw a different video where a trained tech said to always charge with gas (tank upright).. are some refrigerants best to charge with gas versus others with liquid? Also, although you had tank upside down and said this was intentional to charge with liquid, several times you mentioned that you were charging with gas. Could you please clarify the confusion?
A lot of techs will refer to refrigerant as gas, in the same way its commonly referred to as freon. He does not mean that he is adding the refrigerant in its gaseous form, he is just calling the refrigerant "gas". R22, the previous most common refrigerant for residential systems could be added as a gas no problem (this is also were the name "gas" most likely came from). Adding as a gas is "safer" because you wont slug the compressor with liquid by mistake. BUT, it is significantly slower to charge as a gas. You can charge any refrigerant as a liquid, as long as you use your hose valve, or manifold to meter the flow into the system. this is done by only opening the valve or manifold a little bit. As long as you are careful, you will be fine, and you will eventually develop a feel for it. I do not think there are any refrigerants that are "best" charged as a gas. some refrigerants MUST be charged as a liquid, like 410A, 407C, and any blended refrigerant. Ones like R22 are not blends. Blended refrigerants need to be charged as a liquid to prevent the different chemicals from entering the system at different rates. If you look on the bottle of refrigerant you will often see big arrows pointing to the bottom or top. The arrows tell you what end needs to be up during charging. A lot of them will even just write it on the bottle itself.
To decrease refrigerant loss in your charging hose how about putting the valve end on the tank rather than the service port? You could still use the box as a seat (LOL).
cashion556, If the charging hose was reversed, you would not be able to depress the Schrader core at the service valve; you would also not be able to get any refrigerant for the same reason (that you may have figured out by now). The end at the tank does not have a core depressor, while the end at the valve does.
I don't see the liquid to vapor quick tube is installed on the blue/vapor side while charging the unit, how can the host charge the refrigerant so fast without stop every 2-4 seconds ? or it does not matter too much in reality ? anyone know ? thanks
If using the auto capture feature for electrical measurements, how do you get a proper reading on a blower with the door closed/on? In your test set up, no issue with the wire sticking out, but in real world that's not possible.
An air handler you could measure from the disconnect. A furnace you can measure from the burner panel where the main wire comes in. For most anyway. Or you can put the meter in with the blower and read numbers via bluetooth
@@CombatFIFChuck You can stream the numbers via bluetooth and then manually input them, but you can't auto capture them. Not sure how you measure at the disconnect for an air handler, unless you have an external disconnect.
Great video, I use Measurequick everyday. Hardest part I have up north in Canada is charging a system without a decent load. Majority of the time our return air is hovering areound 68-71. Can you leave the 410 bottle upright if the tank is equipped with a liquid valve wth a dip tube taking liquid from the bottom?
Joe Shearer up here in Canada that’s all we have. We never flip our 410 bottles when charging because we have the liquid valve that pulls from the bottom
Mr G.B . How much refrigerant will be in the yellow hose ? If you put the remaining refrigerant that the yellow hose contain. How much the SC will be increasing and what happens to the SH? Thank you!🍻😉
José Cruz I never recommend emptying out what’s in the hoses into the system. What’s in the system is in the system adding anything else will just create an overcharge. Any more a few ounces can make a big difference.
good informative video, but you flush your refrigerant hose, wish you should do. But your shout off valve as a 1 foot hose extension to it that still got air in it. So you had none condensable into your heat pump. That 1 foot hose got some air in after flushing your hose, which there no shut off at the end of that hose, that absorb air after flushing?? Plus your evaporator panels is open, wish is affecting your charging an your super heat. OUTCH......
Maui Kawi opening the ball valve pushes the air out of the ball valve all the way to the service port. There is no need to purge again or the other direction. The unit has a tee with a schrader.
@@mauikawi4290 Might want to show a little respect and consider the possibility that Jim knows a little more than you do. I suspect that he is saying that the rate of diffusion of the atmosphere back into the hose, and the rate of diffusion of the refrigerant out of the hose, when both are at equal pressures, is small enough in the short amount of time that it takes to attach the hose, that it is negligible. If you're worried about it, bleed it again once you've got the hose attached.
I love his videos but (due to time constraint) he has to leave out some important facts. Like when charging a system with a mixed refrigerants (like R410a) you have to allow 30 minutes for it to stabilize every time you add or remove refrigerant. But I understand his points.
Who told you that? 15 minutes at most. If you are talking a heat pump with an accumulator that makes sense, but for straight cooling it 30 minutes is excessive.
