Maria Corona Can you explain your problem a little more. First, make sure your car's engine temperature is cold. If your Chrysler has a radiator cap it will most likely be silver and located on the top of the radiator. That is where you add 50/50 concentration of water and coolant. If you don't have a radiator cap, your car will have a clear/amber colored reservoir tank similar to the one in this video and that is where you add the coolant mixture to the level indicated on the reservoir tank. Whomever installed the new radiator should have filled it to the proper level before allowing the car to be driven.
It’s a good video. Thanks. Like the reminder that anti freeze is toxic to wildlife and dispose of it properly. It also reminds me that if I had a lift in my garage- I probably wouldn’t take my car for service anywhere until my old cold crooked hand couldn’t hold a wrench.
I've flushed a few cooling systems in my time. I've found the most efficient way takes a little more work. The system can be flushed with your garden hose with the thermostat removed. Close the system back up temporarily, after thermostat removal, disconnect the upper radiator hose & run water continuously into the radiator while the engine is running. When clear water comes from the disconnected hose, the job is done. Install a new thermostat & gasket, drain radiator & fill with full strength antifreeze. You can't flush the cooling system freely with a thermostat installed because it stops the water flow till the water reaches operating temperature.
Or you can buy a flush n fill kit. Install the flush/fill tee into the heater core hose (usually on the fire wall). It comes with a back-flow preventer coupler that attaches to the tee that you installed on the heater core hose. Also comes with a splash deflector to be put on the radiator or overflow tank. Start and run engine with garden hose on and attached to the tee, till water runs clear from the splash deflector. Prestone sells these. By having the engine warmed up, with heat blowing full blast the thermostat is open. You'll get a full flush...cheap and easy
Nonsense you don’t remove thermostat because a lot of cars you need new gaskets it’s a B/S job you run the car up to operating temp which opens the thermostat with engine running you flush the system
Ive always used hose and flushed radiator and heater core and then added prestone 50/50. I don't get rust, the freeze plugs do not let go etc. I think folks get too crazy sometimes. Great video with very good guidance.
If you drain coolant, fill with distilled water and run the engine, drain, refill with distilled water, run engine, drain, repeat until the coolant is completely clear (water). Then when you fill up with 50/50 coolant wouldn't all the extra distilled water in the heater core, engine block, etc, bring the ratio down to 25% coolant, 75% water? So then, if you drain the new coolant, and add 50/50 mix the second time... The ratio would be at about 37% coolant and 63% water? Since only about half of the total cooling system actually drains wouldn't adding a straight anti-freeze be wise? Then all the water inside the engine, heater core, block, etc would mix with the anti-freeze and give around the 50/50 mark? My car is a 2002 Bonneville, and the capacity is stated as 10 quarts, about only 5 quarts drains from the radiator.
Google point. I suppose the more accurate way would be to use a coolant tester and learn your own car. Every engine would be a little different. I would rather have a little of the older fluid in there than a dilute mix
+Wil Morris Well, it depends on how often your coolant is changed. If its dexkill that has turned to sludge, or the green stuff thats turned brown.... Or if you changing out dexkill to put in something else, you really gotta get most of it out. But yeah, coolant tester does help, as long as you check it cold, and knock of the air bubbles.
I sure hope you aren't putting Harbor Freight coolant in a German vehicle such as an Audi. It's very, very specific what you're supposed to use in almost all cars not manufactured in the US.
Yes, he didn't mention a lot of things to the newbies, like I listed in my above post. Plus G13 just cost me 50 frikn dollars for 5 concentrated liters! But it is some good stuff! The thermostat in pulled after 115K miles on it still looked exactly like a brand new one, and the g12 that was in it was still pretty and pinkish! It all looked so good I probably won't even bother with this again as long as I have the car unless something else fails and I have to drain the coolant system. Peace!
always pre-mix concentrate, or the heavier coolant concentrate will sit at the bottom of your rad and not properly mix with the water which can lead to many problems. Also don't forgot to bleed your coolant system after you have refilled. Easiest way is to get your fill point (expansion tank or rad cap) higher than the rest of the coolant system and let the engine idle with the cap off, let it run for about 15-20 minutes with your heaters on max (so it bleeds the heater matrix also) and top up as necessary. you will probably get allot of bubbles and the odd spurt out the cap but don't worry about it. when it settles and you have a nice stable coolant level you should be good to go.
How is this possible? The coolant mixture circulates through the engine which would eventually force everything to mix. Also, if what you said is true, coolant and water would be a heterogeneous mixture and if the car wasn't run for a long time, coolant would separate and settle to the bottom of the radiator anyways. Seems like an old mechanics tale that has no basis in truth.
@@CU08 While that is true, it will take a few drive cycles. If it drops below freezing before that happens there a remote risk of cracking channels or fittings.
I have had cars for over 40 years & have always done oil/filter & coolant changes myself. 1. You know exactly what is going into your car. 2. You know it is done properly (I have a mate who has worked in Dealerships & 3rd Party Auto Car Care Companies. Some of his stories re: servicing, etc are scary & pure rip-offs). He does, however, have a 'service pit' in his garage so you can get under the car safely. As for a full coolant flush, I have always used distilled water as 'tap water' contains minerals, etc. which causes corrosion within the radiator & engine block. If done properly, with superior coolant & distilled water, a proper & complete radiator/engine/heater flush will last between 4 - 5 years under 'normal' driving conditions.
+Peter Waldie Scary reading - find the Jiffy Lube consumer complaint board online. Typical: "engine seized up - seems they forgot to put oil in the engine, good thing all they did was wipe off the old oil filter, at least that oil was in there."
Between the refilling the heater core with water and the first drain, do you reattach the hose? Also, when removing the hose, wouldn't the distilled water be very hot from running the car and turning on the heater?
Great video for beginners! But what I was wondering about is whether or not I should add coolant directly into the radiator through the shiny cap as well?
Ben- Great video. I'm about to do this to my Subaru and I have a question. The Haynes manual says to leave the radiator cap off and run the engine after the new coolant is put in until the thermostat opens, but I've read in many other places that one should never run the engine with the radiator cap off. What should I do, and what is running it with the cap off meant to achieve? Thanks for being there for all of us DIYers.
Seven years late and you might not even have that car anymore, but if you have the money I suggest just picking up a radiator funnel and you can bleed your system without having the (stock) cap on. I suggest that because personally I don't feel safe without using one of those for the job. EricTheCarGuy has a good video on it, about bleeding the cooling system.
The heater core doesn't get flushed unless you idle the engine with the heater on full. Some cars have a drain plug on the engine block that you should also pull for proper drainage.
This isn't a flush, it's a replacement. A flush is when you add chemicals to the system to clean it out. Those of which will be dumped out. a flush is a 5 step processes. Drain, fill with detergent/cooland, run for 30mins or so (depends on the age of the car), drain, fill with new coolant.
Nice video. How do you get out of the heater core the plain distilled water that you put in when circulating the system with just plain water? Would it be a good thing to use a radiator flush chemical before doing the initial radiator drain. How about some shops have a machine that purges out the old coolant as it introduces the new coolant, I would think this would be a better way to make sure it has all been changed.
There are coolant change kits that have funnels that attach to the radiator or tank. These allow air to escape by keeping the coolant level full. it will "burp" the system of air. Once the bubbles stop coming out from the funnel, the system is burped and free from air.
Mack the best way to check for coolant leaks is with a pressure tester made for this purpose. They are not too expensive, or have a shop preform this test. They attach to either your radiator at the cap or expansion tank at the cap depending on what type cooling system you have. Then by pumping up the system to operating pressure, no more than 16 psi, you will see where the leak is coming from. Unless you have a large leak they are hard to see. If no leaks are seen and you are still losing coolant it's possible you either have a blown head gasket or cracked head, block somewhere. There is another simple test you can do to check for blown head gasket, it will tell you if you are getting carbon fumes in the cooling system. You can get these kits for not a lot of money at auto parts stores and they are easy to use, just follow instructions.
This is probably the fastest to get all the old coolant out. The only thing I would recommend is doing the distilled water flush at least 3 times to make sure you get out most of the old coolant. Just make sure the water is clear on the last flush.
One year I tried flushing my Jeep Cherokee until the coolant got clear. I drained/topped off with distilled water everyday for a week. It never got clear, not even close. That's 7 drain and fills.
You didn't talk about burping the system to get the air bubbles out. Many people forget to do this and their car starts to over heat after flushing the system. Very important!!!
You mention how "burping the system" is super important, scold him for not addressing it, but then you didn't explain anything about it either. That doesn't help anyone. It just makes us paranoid that we're missing something, and we are still left not knowing what to do. People like me are on here trying to learn from people like you who have more experience. If you're going to state there is something we need to do, in the context of a how-to tutorial, please also explain how to do it. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks.
@@treydeuce8479 Thank you. Now THAT'S a useful reply! Newbs like me turn to RU-vid all the time, looking for tips and lessons from folks like you. Thanks for sharing.
there are tow types of cooling systems. expansion tank & the recovery bottle system. the expansion tank (shown in this vehicle) does not have a radiator cap on the radiator itself so he pours it in the coolant tank which is correct. the radiator cap system of course have a cap that is on the radiator.
Some engines have an air vent on the highest area of the block that must be opened to prevent air entrapment when the cooling system is refilled. If you're doing the job yourself, just be sure you know whether your engine has such vents.
There is no way you will ever get ALL the old coolant out by this method. Think about it, every time you pull that lower hose you only drain the radiator, but the engine block is still full of that mixture so until that water draining out is perfectly clear, you haven't really flushed the whole cooling system, including the heater core [which is just like a mini radiator] I should know, I've been in the business for 40 years.
That's why you close the system and run the car with distilled water for 10mins to cycle the coolant through the engine block and the radiator. Ya goof
Trey Stine Okay, so #1 - in 10 minutes the "coolant" that was left in the heater core and the engine block hasn't really had a chance to circulate because....#2 - when you drained the system the first time it filled up with air, then when you refilled it, some of that air got trapped in the block and unless you run the engine at about 1500rpm and get it hot enough that it is circulating really well, you won't get all that air out, which means....#3 - there will still be some old coolant in the heater core and in the engine block and once again, when you drain the lower hose, you're not draining the whole system. Now #4 - the tough part on modern computer controlled injected engines is keeping the rpm up high enough and long enough [ on the old carbs you just left it on fast idle].
+Jemima Aaron you can always go to auto parts stores i.e: autozone, advanced, etc.. they offer "old fluid disposals", although some are not equipped so its best to call around. some local mechanics may also do this for a small fee.
+Walter Matthies I agree and am the 13 person to thumbs up your comment. I use a garden hose, pull off all the hoses and run the hose in everywhere forward and backward to remove all residue. Lots of grime come out the heater core with the garden hose running it out. This method shown in this video is only a cooling system drain and fill NOT a flush...
I'm getting a '99 Cutlass running again and since the vehicle's old with mostly stock hoses I'm thinking of replacing all of the hoses and cooling system components. The vehicle had Dexcool stock so it's a good idea to replace stuff anyways, especially the radiator. Since I'm pulling the engine anyways it's the best time to replace anything in the engine compartment.
The only thing I noticed that wasn't done, I personally recommend doing... Wipe off the coolant reservoir when you are finished with it, use some window cleaner (After the cap is installed) to clean it. it makes checking levels easy and it shows someone else that you take care of your stuff.
Open the radiator cap before draining, turn heater to HOT to help drain heater core, coolant is required for water pump lubrication so run for only a few minutes with only distilled water. In Northern US, be sure 50/50 mix protects to at least 40 deg BELOW zero. Some coolants mention 50/50 mix but do not mention level of temperature protection..
This video doesn’t show how to burp the cooling system. You probably have air pockets. Park the vehicle on an incline or jack up the front and run it while squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses to let air escape. Do this while the car is on with the heater on full blast and rev the engine a little. Keep an eye on the reservoir tank to be sure in at the right level.
Quote me if I'm wrong, but even IF you do clear out all the old coolant, there will still be distilled water in your block and if you just "top it off" with coolant the mixture will be incorrect. I think the best method is to just empty the radiator (via drain plug or hose, then top off which is about a gallon depending on the vehicle. Do this once every 6 months and you will eventually have cleaner fluid. I had a bad leak at one point (it's fixed now) and had to refill a few times and the coolant is super clean now.
Yes, ChrisFix does a great job of describing the process, but he had the advantage of being able to take out his thermostat. Not everybody has the ability to do this. Mine's too hard to access as it's buried under 14 other things.
Lots of comments on how this isn't a "flush," as the block still has water/coolant. As a teen in the 80's I added the Prestone flush kit, and followed directions. Had a 78' LTD II. Loved it. Coolant flush seemed to work fine. But then again, that ting was a tank that worked even when I tuned it up and set the firing order wrong on my plugs to distributed cap.... I've been hesitant to do the flush kit on my cars now (2008 Toyota Matrix at 128K, and 2006 Ford Explorer at 140K), but maybe I should? I'm in Texas, so heat is more an issue than freezing. The truck pulls a camper (small pop up, easily in the tow capacity) every summer. Lately it has been kicking the fan into high gear (extra radiator fan - or high gear... some clutch thinking the engine is working too hard?). Sounds like an airplane revving up to take off. I've talked to my mechanic and checked the forums - seems it may be no harm to anything, just a clutch tripping the fan to go into high gear... Not sure if flushing coolant would help an of this - or if it is just a good maintenance idea...
I use regular water from hose, its fine just change it more often, about 2-3 years with extended life coolant. Check owners manual for intervals, reduce it if using regular tap water.
We're going to do the same type operation on our beetle. Except we already know we will be changing out the thermostat, so there's no need to let the engine get 'hot'. Just remove the stat--reattach the outlet with the o-ring. And flush it out. For the record? G12 Coolant is anything but cheap! So I had to grin when he said buy an extra gallon of it...Yeah, it's about $22.00 a throw at the stealership.
Hands up to all that has a lift in their garage, i know you don't have to do these demo, but if you are going to do, at least do them using common methods, thanks for the demo by the way
To be fair most of us watching something like this should at least know how to jack a car up. It's going to be the exact same procedure on jack stands other then the all the aches and pains you get from rolling around under a car.
Audi/Volkswagens don't usually have a radiator cap and are only filled through the reservoir tank. This model, an Audi A4 is one of those engines that does not have a radiator cap.
Judging by all the comments it will be easier and less messy to take it to some shop. Who could I trust not to scam me? My dealership? Goodyear? Pep Boys? Who out there is trustworthy?
Reg M thats rude and not necessary comment. Be realistic; not everybody has a lift or appropriate grounds available to flush radiator, and keep it from running into ground.
The recommended coolant (orange) for my 2012 Ford MKZ is $33 A GALLON! This guy is living in a parallel universe. No wonder PM magazine folded long time ago. Was a GREAT rag to read in the '50s.
Most of the other components you list are for the air conditioning system. This is only for your comfort and the vehicle does not need it. The r134a is within this system. The condenser is in front of the radiator & the same blowers that pull air thru the radiator pull air thru the condenser @ the same time to help that system which is completely separate and sealed. The same blower inside of the car is used to circulate the cold air conditioning air or the heated air, whichever is needed.
You missed an important part , you have to mix the coolant with water before adding it, this way you know you’re pouring 50/50 mix into it, if you just add from the bottle your measurements will be off .. next time pour half the concentrate into empty water jug and put equal parts distilled water in coolant bottle and water bottle with coolant, now you have two containers of 50/50 mixed coolant and you can pour it in as many times as you need to keep the reservoir filled
Might actually sound like a bargain in the long run? Pretty sure anybody could call in dave ramseys daily radio show. Dave Ramsey the great wizard of finances. If he doesn't say all clear grab all of you can. Then in my opinion will grow more strongly that he is just gifted at gableing hot air to become more wealthy because he cherishes money more than his own skin.
Ric Rust on this car there is only one container to add coolant. its towards the back but higher then the radiator so it all fills up. vw and BMW mainly like this.
a single lick of Ethylene Glycol can kill a cat or dog over 72 hours via kidney damage. If you have pets, then use PG Propylene Glycol and If you dont recycle then make sure you dispose of it properly. Recycling ??? I dont recycle because what you pull out of your engine is usually broken down to much to be any good anyway. All Antifreeze has a life cycle depending on type. BTW...this really was not a flush video. It was just a replacement of antifreeze video.
When your engine is cold take off your radiator cap or your surge tank cap depending on which type of system you have and turn your vehicle on. Feel on the hose that is running to your thermostat when this hose starts getting hot then you are cycling the fluid. You should see some bubbles coming up at the radiator cap or surge tank. It usually takes about 15 minutes or a little longer for the thermostat to open. when you think all the air is out put on your cap and your done.
First as other Comments stated where the Hell are You going to get Brand Name Coolant for $5.00 a gallon,Just did my 2004 Lexus and my Wife's Subaru 2007 the Dealers were $42.99 Toyota Long Life and 39.50 Subaru Long Life a Gallon Pure not 50/50 ! AutoZ wanted $21.99 for a Gallon of the same thing you are using ! The local oil change place wanted $179.99 to do a flush with city water and then add new Coolant but no Flush Chemical that was $35.00 more! The Dealers wanted over $200 each For the Lex and Sub.?Was on Amaz. and a 4 Gal. pack of Evans HD Coolant was $199.00 thats $50 a Gallon ,So where do you get $5.00 ,Maybe from the same people who made your hose clamps? Another thing why don't you take out the Thermostat to do a Flush and then put a $10 to $20 Dollar New Thermostat and Gasket in? It also makes Flushing Flow through Whole System Right Away and Then It All Drains Out and Don't Forget Thermostats get gummed up and fail too ,Especially with Flush Running Through Them! My manual calls for 40K mile change on Coolant and Thermostat and I see New Prestone with 100,000 mile life sticker on it, Yea you don't change the Coolant you change the Engine and Heater Core and anything Else Connected to the Coolant ! What a Joke!
+mustafadroid no problem just leave radiator cap off and let run with heater on for about 20 mins add if needed drive around a little bit let it cool and add if needed
the thermostat opens to let coolant into the radiator, what lets your distilled water and cleaner you should've used get to the heater core is turning the heater on so the heater control valve opens.
You didn't "flush" anything! You drained part of it (radiator only), replaced that with water and circulated it by running (the same thing it's been doing since new anyway), so where did you actually flush anything? Where did you specifically flush or back flush anything including the heater core? You just wasted a bunch of time and money.
+Andork Kuomo I'm not sure if you hadn't thought this through, but: 1) A huge chunk of the sediment will be purged in the initial drain. 2) What THEN runs through the system -- the distilled water -- a) initially has NO sediment and b) is less viscous; in both these ways it removes further sediment in and around the engine which the more viscous and already sediment-saturated coolant didn't (and couldn't) have done during the initial drain. 3) As others have pointed out, doing the water circulation + drain a few more cycles only furthers the degree to which sediment is removed. Don't believe it? Try it and compare the visible turbidity of drained fluid after each cycle. Lastly, one doesn't need to have "worked on cars for umpteen years" to understand any of this. Often, the only thing each year of experience does with some geniuses is solidify their many misunderstandings.
+J Allen I worked with a guy for 30 years that would fall right into your last sentence. When we learned to flush them back in the 70's you opened everything up and flushed and back flushed with a garden hose and that's how I've always done them. That included removing block drain plugs too...if we were really motivated! I've seen numerous times where someone just gravity drained, refilled and accomplished nothing, particularly when the heater core was an issue (which it almost always is because if you have any sediment in the system the core is one of the first places it ends up). The big difference with todays' vehicles is they don't seem to get quite as much crap in them any more with the newer tech we have in everything. The last couple times I've flushed any of my vehicles (usually with well over 100K on original coolant) I've gotten next to nothing out. Either way, I flush them good until water runs clear so that I have scavenged the entire system of old coolant then blow it all out with some compressed air. Part of the reason you do this is, besides flushing out sediment, you want to actually replace all the "worn out" coolant. You'll never accomplish that by just gravity draining the radiator.
Our 13 Sonata takes 7 quarts total per owners manual. I first drain it(it has a drain plug) and see how much distilled water it takes to fill up(3.5 quarts.) I run the car around for 15 minutes, drain and fill with distilled water and do it again several times until it's just clean water then drain and add straight high quality coolant(almost a gallon). Run it for a couple days and check the mixture with a coolant gauge.
I use a garden hose, pull off all the hoses and run the hose in everywhere forward and backward to remove all residue. Lots of grime come out the heater core with the garden hose running it out. This method shown in this video is only a cooling system drain and fill NOT a flush...
rightON⚡⚡! Also it's good to know that the way to do it comPletely is to be aware of (and *at least* chry) the coolant plug on the block: draining the "wooder(ChrisFix :3👍💪) that's directly in the engine". It's tough enough not being able to get at the an-i-freeze , but then thaT's why we do the drain & refill repeatedly 3 or 4 times to remove azmuch depleted coolant as we can
How come nobody demonstrates draining the coolant from the engine block and how to compensate for the deluded water/coolant mixture when you first use the distilled water?
now after reading some of the other comments maybe you should redo this video. popular mechanic should not allow partial work on a vehicle when you say radiator flush you should do it right. this looks like the kind of job that you would probably get an A Instant Oil Change place. please live up to your name you can do better.
Avoid the problem of the thermostat being closed when draining - just pull that hose when its still 200+ degrees - don't see why not. Filler cap needs to be off for a nice fast gushing out of scalding hot coolant or water.
I have seen video where a much more thorough flush where done with a garden hose. I wonder if you method leavse a lot of the old anit-freeze behind in the engine block.?
Okay....so how many people watching this have a lift in their garage? How many people have a garage? This is a great video, but would love to see one for those of us mechanics that don't have either of these....I'm sure I'll find one on here......
+Brian Herron I use a jack and jackstands... Get a big cardboard box, break it down and lay it under the car and lay down under the car. Do it in your driveway or on the street... I'd love to have a lift in my garage but it's just not practical for a weekend mechanic.
+Brian Herron - Just use ramps or a jack. I dont think you'd want to see this video without a lift. Hard to film, and even harder to tell where the camera is pointed at.
***** Well, I have two diff. jacks AND I have jack stands...my "stupid" point (I guess) was...I've watched other videos where the mechanic is like "us" and uses the same things we have....you know....he's being practical/realistic. So, when I watched this it made me think of THOSE guys and how it's so easy to say- "sure let me just put my vehicle on my lift in my garage." NOT!!
I have a Honda Civic Ex 08, I have some questions about flushing the coolant for it. 1. Why did you cut the coolant with distilled water? 2. How long do you let the car run when you're flushing it with water? 3. Do you add water each time you check the coolant level as well? First time owning a car so I'm trying to figure some of this stuff out, any feedback would be great.
spookypunky a lot of people do it without a lift you could use jack stands if you need more space also a lot of radiators have drain plugs to you don't make a mess like that by disconcerting the hose you can use a bucket or one of those under the bed storage things to catch the coolant coming out of the engine do not drain on to the ground then transfer to any kind of jug and take to a parts store or somewhere that will dispose of coolant so if you already have basic tools you can easily do this for under $25 you could also buy a coolant flush kit to help make a little easier please watch a couple more videos this ones not that good
+Jemima Aaron check your local recycling center if they accept used engine fluids. Most local auto parts stores will also recycle them for you. Just make sure you know it's coolant and keep away from animals and children. Also I wouldn't mess with the brake fluid aside from topping off unless you're mechanically inclined to bleed the brakes as part of a brake fluid flush. Check your owners manual.
I just did this to my jeep mine had a drain plug which made it a lot easier than this and I drained it 3 times and refilled it bought 2 gallons if antifreeze at target for 8.15 each and 6 gallons of distilled water at 95 cents each So around $21 you should use distilled water because it wont have a calcium build up or any thing. I did this with out jack stands I used 2 bins yo catch the fluid
Hi, excellent video. The coolant in my car has turned black. My question is do i need to remove the radiator and clean it too or just flushing is enough.
This vehicle might be filled with antifreeze that uses non-toxic propylene glycol as a base (these types are usually dyed orange). He still gives the warning, though, since many vehicles use ethylene glycol. If he is handling ethylene glycol without gloves, he is a very crazy man.
Ethylene glycol is poorly absorbed through the skin. It only becomes toxic when ingested. The same enzyme in your liver that breaks down alcohol breaks the ehtylene glycol into oxalic acid, which is what is really toxic. In other words don't drink it or inhale the fumes and you should be fine. Gloves not needed. www.cdc.gov/niosh/ershdb/EmergencyResponseCard_29750031.html
Jansy Valenzuela LOL, I did like the information. I didn't realize there were two types. I'm a glove always kind of repair guy except for tiny screws or bolts. I also prefer Nitrile. When they break, they break more obviously to prevent further contamination....yeah, that's better for medicine than car mechanics, lol. (Surgical tech. here.)
This video is very informative but what about burping or vacuuming the air out of the cooling system? That is also usually part of the procedure. I’ve seen a previous video where a guy said to take a hand pump and vacuum out the rest of the coolant outta the reservoir which is something I never heard of. Has anyone else ever heard of that?
My neighbours cat really likes antifreeze coolant. I drained my radiator and put it into a large bowl . The next thing i know the neighbours cat was lapping it up ! So everyday i leave the friendly cat a fresh bowl out.
+Cooper 1019 That was almost funny, except the fact that after the first day, you wouldn't have to leave any more out as the friendly cat wouldn't be back. :-P
Hey I have a 1997 Audi A4 Quattro and I have done a radiator flush there's a drain plug on the right side if you pull out the fog light you see the plug it's red
QUESTION; I will do my own flushing at home + change the hoses. I will use flush chemical #1 do I need to remove and change old hoses 1st and do the flushing with new hoses or just keep the old hoses on and do flushing that way. #2 I will use distilled water...how many times do I need to fill up the radiator with distilled water and run the engine ( including heater core) ?
hello and thanks for the video very helpful I have a 1997 Acura CL 2.2 and the radiator loses coolant and it doesn't seem to transfer any from the reservoir tank any help with this thank you in advance.
Cool video. Mine is not due til 60k miles, but none of the area auto parts stores will take used coolant. Here or the county i work in 🤔 I do plan to d.i.y. this project but idk where i can take the old coolant. Thanks 😊
On any repair, look around a little, don't have tunnel vision. Good to remember that! :) As one who has missed obvious stuff, I really apprecaite your comment.
Few that I'd like to add. 1st remove battery. Now if you've ever added a stop leak solution to your cooling system. You should flush the radiator with a the solution (Preston radiator flush). The holding tank should be cleaned. I also would consider replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat and gasket. Now always replace the old radiator cap with a 7 lbs cap. Expecially when replacing the radiator that isn't OEM. The lower pressure radiator cap could save you quite a bit of money by not having to replace the heater core which is probably getting weak itself. And last, plug off the transmission cooling lines to prevent fluid loss and contamination. don't forget to check the transmission fluid level when the job is complete. you don't want to burn up your transmission.
Whats the deal with flushing where you T the heater hose and hook a garden hose up? Thats not distiled water. Do the repair shops use distiled? i do not think many do. My radiator says it voids the warentee if I do not use it.
Hi, Thanks that there are good tips here. Though I suggest if you ever re-film it, to point out "Have the engine cool before doing this." Have a nice day on me.
Hey helpful video! The only thing I'm unsure of is people in comments saying you have to bleed/burp the coolant system or it will over heat or idle funny, what's the deal with that, is it required or not?
The Radiator is to control the temperature within the engine & is what this video is about. That same liquid within the engine circulates into the Heater Core which is what supplies Heat into your vehicle when you need it by turning on your heater in the driver compartment. There are Blower Motors to pull air through the radiator to keep the coolant inside of it from getting too hot which would potentially overheat your engine. There is also a blower motor inside the car for the heater.
2006 equinox overheating after about 15 minutes driving. If I loosen bleeder screw and let a small amount of coolant out, it will cool back down and we can start the process over again.
