Thanks for the info on flushing the motor. I "thought" that added hose attachment up on the unit was handy, but they didn't tell me it really is not designed to have the motor running while using it! You exposed that little deception and may have saved my motor. I now use the muff for flushing thoroughly, and the port for simply rinsing after a day on the lake.
Super nice quality video. Can I say that some guys might think " oh i have the top flush on my motors, I can flush them without running them. This is true. BUT if you come back to harbor/shore SUPER FAST with motors GLOWING HOT and connect your hose up and turn it on FULL PRESSURE cold water into a glowing hot motor without running it, sooner or later the block will crack. My local repair shop here on the Pacific West Coast said they are having lots of blocks cracking near the exhaust manifold. Reason is you should NEVER full pressure flush cold water into a SUPER HOT engine without running it. Run the motor or let it cool. If this info saves on guy thousands of dollars its worth sharing.
They’re pulling your leg. Engine block is water cooled at low pressure. If the pump is ok, the block won’t come near boiling point no matter how fast you charge at the ramp! Aluminum won’t crack with a fast chill, even if you could supply flush water any colder or any faster than the inbuilt pump. Look to frost, corrosion, choked coolant supply for possible causes of cracks. Not a good idea to switch off any engine immediately after a full power burn, exhaust ports need a little time to lose heat and with coolant draining from an outboard engine, the port area could expand crushing the block or head gasket locally (water leakage). In reality, boating usually entails low speed maneuvers mooring or docking covering the cooling requirements. The operation risk is charging to a destination and cutting off immediately.
Thanks for the video. I need to run a check on my water pump this week and this helps. LIke every boater I made a mistake last time out and forgot to shut off the motor when I pulled the boat out for a minute or two. Hopefully I see plenty of water coming out of the “peehole”. Low hours on he motor so hopefully I have minimal damage to the impeller and I can get through the season.
I have a 2013 Mercury pro max 200hp that has a front intake port along with the normal side intake ports. If you run standard water flush muffs on the side intakes, you must also seal off the front intake with the Quicksilver Dual Water Pickup Flush Seal part number 881150Q 1. VERY IMPORTANT
He forgot to mention that firstly you turn the water on before starting the outboard motor, and secondly you turn the motor off before turning the water off. I know most of us would do that, BUT it pays to remind the average Joe
Hi…. as a qualified automotive mechanic…I have been using 1 litter of engine coolant inhibitor right at the end of the flush on my outboard…which keeps all seals and aluminum housing lubricated at all times and keeps a film of anti-rust and anti-corrosion at all time…what is your thoughts on this ???
Nice video. However I would suggest to put the hose clip the other way, "embracing" the lower unit, which is the correct way not to have the hose loose and falling to the ground during the flush.
I sucked up some freshwater vegetation, I replaced my thermostat, checked the pump, ok. But still can’t get water out the tell tale, I also flushed through the hose connection, I’ve poked a wire up the tale tale, still nothing, what’s your thoughts?
I have a small 9.9 Honda outboard on the way. Small ones like this are usually flushed in a tub of water. The manufacturer directs me to remove the prop before flushing. Is this necessary? Can't I flush in the water tub with the engine in neutral and get the desired results? Prop removal is tedious. Thanks for your advice!
I'm an absolute newbie at boats. Just a bought a boat and did the mistake to run the engine without water running through at all for 5 mins straight and somehow, I didn't ruin the pump. I can tell because the boat ran just fine, so did I get lucky or what issues should I expect down the road?? Thank you in advance.
Question for you, I went to start my motor and get it going for the season. It’s been sitting under cover for almost 2 years. Water wouldn’t spit out of piss hole so I flushed motor. Water did come out when flushing so I hooked clam shells back up and started again. Had very weak stream coming out of hole even though I cleaned it out with a wire. Does that sound like water pump issue? I’m afraid to run too long and ruin motor.
I have a 95 mercury 225 efi racing motor what do they call the jacket you use to flush or run motor without being in water hate to be dumb always learning though hlong mo
I did this and water was not coming through the top hole of the motor very well. It would once I went and put more pressure on the clamps however. Is that normal and what could this mean?
My 9.9 Mercury marinar doesn’t have side intakes. It’s on a flat surface above the propeller. How do I mount it? I ended up using a tub with clean water since I was in the bay last jight
One major point he missed is to make sure to flush it with Salt Away if you're in salt water. It removes the salt much better than regular H2O and provides corrosion protection. The salt literally melts off. You flush for a couple minutes with regular H2O then Salt Away for another minute or so. Do not flush again with H2O after applying Salt Away because of the corrosion protection from Salt Away. I will then rinse my entire boat with Salt Away including the areas around the motor that this guy points out in the video. Its the only way to prevent corrosion and it works. Obviously for fresh water lakes you do not need Salt Away.
Captain I have a 1985 25hp Mercury I was excited to get the motor running and rebuild the water pump.. But when I tested with the water muffs I had no telltale Any idea why? I'm a rookie and am learning as I go with the help of your channel and others. No shop will help me due the age of my motor Thx for your time
I'm almost certain you will have a tell-tale, it just sounds like its blocked. It's normally easy to clear a blockage, a thin piece of wire pushed into the tell-tale hole will do it. Here is a video of a similar era Mercury, it gives you a rough idea where it's coming from. If it isn't flowing then never run your engine, you will cook it! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dpiUrWcGLNc.html
Thank you for getting back to me. I found the problem. While reinstalling the lower end it's the lower end, the brass pick up tube was not connected to the upper end. And. I missed the mark. I found that installing the pickup tube 1st, before the lower end worked much better . If you leave the pick up tube attached to the lower end You can't see The whole therefore not knowing if it's in the right spot or not. In my case it was not. Much easier to connect the top 1st then when installing the lower end you can actually see the brass enter the rubber grommet. Now I have full circulation And working great.. Please share my experience with others
Some muffs have a detergent dispenser on them. Just mild dishwashing liquid in the dispenser is a good way to break down any salt. Have been using Dishwashing liquid when flushing my outboard for day 1. Its 20 years old now and no corrosion in the powerhead and thermostat.
IF there is NO ADDITIONAL 'FRESH COOL' water being added to the barrel. While in the barrel w/ sufficient water, could be dangerous to put into the motor into gear IF THE PROP strikes the barrel and/or the torque of the running engine causes ti to turn and the prop striking the barrel. On t he smaller engine when running in a barrel, we have always added a clothes detergent like TIDE-which flushes the engine, water passage and 'lubricates' the rubber impeller. John Cstelluccio, Jr. Southeast Louisiana-BAYOU COUNTRY
Why don't they just make these motors with a small air-cooled radiator and coolant reservoir the way a car engine is? Seems like a sealed, closed-loop system of known fluid would be superior to having to rely on the water you're boating in and worry about running the engine dry.
lmao weight?? your kidding right, why dont the race 2 stroke bikes do aircoolled then? simple answer its not effective enough since the engine needs a cover to stop it from getting wet you cant cool it down enough. you never go fishing in a bath its always cold water
I don’t know dude. I am not trying to argue but holy shit flush it every single time you use your boat even in fresh water lakes? I don’t know any one that does that. In city water isn’t there minerals and shit in that too?
