These fluid dampers do a better job of helping minimize vibrations in the crankshaft. That's an subaru EJ25. As a mechanic that has worked on hundreds of them, the stock damper does not need to be pressed on or a puller to remove. You can remove the bolt and wiggle it off 99% of the time. Pressing it on will make it more concentric as long as it's machined well. As well as making more contact with the Crank. Great insurance upgrade/modification to a high performance build. Not that most people think of a Subaru when it comes to high performance😂
Some need to be pulled off with tools but I think nearly all will go on with just the bolt or by hand. Might have some issues if it goes all the way on by hand though
@@gurshanvirk8496 I would stack some washers on the crank bolt first to make sure the damper fully seats, much like what the tool does, then back it off and torque it.
The installer uses a stud that is seated in the crank and the stud nut threads are taking the load to install. Using the crank bolt puts all the torque on the crank threads and could easily strip out. Call your parts store, sometimes they have installers for rent or free.
Is it a harmonic balancer, or a crank dampener? I’m assuming it’s a internally-balanced engine that’s being pushed to higher rpm’s and this is supplemental balancing(?)
A harmonic balancer is for externally balanced crankshafts and will have offset weights to counteract the harmonics from out of balance engines. Lots of v6's and some v8's and rotaries need offset weighted flywheels and crankshaft pulleys because their rotating assemblies cannot achieve a balance within the engine block. Inline and horizontally opposed 4 and 6 cylinder engines typically do not require counterweighted pulleys (harmonic balancers) or flywheels because they're balanced by design. TECHNICALLY: Internally balanced engines have Crankshaft Pulleys. Externally balanced engines have Harmonic Balancers. That being said, the terms harmonic balancer and crankshaft pulley are basically interchangeable, and it's not worth arguing about.
@@pdubowner Incorrect. Harmonic Dampners don't need weights. For example, the Ford Mustang 4.6 uses a harmonic dampner with no weights because the internals are balanced. The rotating assembly while in motion, with the chains, the whip of the cams, etc, cause inherent frequencies. On high horsepower Mustangs way back in the day, those harmonics on a fully balanced engine would blow apart the oil pump gears connected to the crank due to those harmonics. The fix was billet pump gears, but then it would shred apart the key on the crank. People ended up having to use the OEM or aftermarket dampner to stop the problem.
Installing aftermarket dampner is the thing of nightmares. 1) I don't want a tool sitting around just in the off chance I need to remove the crank pulley. 2) The tolerances on aftermarket dampners are SO TIGHT!!! Why!? The OE units slide on. I added bolts to the 3 pull locations and tapped them until I had enough thread to tighten the dampner using my old crank bolt. How about these companies tweak the diameter. I get the tighter the better, but completely not needed for the small improvement.
They have universal ones that come with several different size bolts that thread into the crankshaft. They are identical to this one. I think mine was around $60 or $80. It's nothing new; I've had one for 20+ years. You should NEVER hammer on ANY balancer. This avoids the problem of trying to use the crank bolt to put the balancer on and stripping it because it doesn't use the action of threading a bolt into the crank in order to press the balancer on.
@@motoiq Why not? The installation tool you used in the video is essentially doing what I described. Albeit at a higher cost. I'm not suggesting someone just go ham on it with an impact gun LoL
Because you are adding the force to seat the pulley to the tightening torque. Without this tool, I would tighten to seat the pulley, then loosen, the do the final torque.
Well, hitting it is the worst way to do it. Stacking some washers then using the crank bolt to bring it in, then to full torque and repeating several times to fully seat it, then final torquing it is much safer.
