Great video. I like to dig a very shallow hole and plant the tree so the top of the root ball is about 3" higher than the ground. this allows for settling and better drainage. and also allows for more compost and wood chips on top of the ground .
In my opinion, you should only tie a tree off no higher than 1/3 the height. When you tie a tree it's to stabilize the root ball. I say 1/4 to 1/3. Then again, if its solid in the ground, skip the tie. 😉 Great video though!
Lots of nice tips and clear presentation. The only thing I would add is give it a good soak in something like seaweed solution before removing from the pot to help with transplant shock. From the colour of the soil when u do the root trim it looks like the soil in the pot had a bit of water repellency develop so especially important to soak it. The written tip says you have watered it but watering doesn’t help if it’s repellent and soaking in a bucket is always much better especially if you use something like a seaweed solution. Also as Im sure u know different trees prefer different methods. A eucalyptus I’ll deep plant like half way up it’s trunk burying the lower leaves like planting a tomato plant as long the soils good enough for it. Citrus or avo I’ll mound a little so the top 1/3 roots are in the humus layer.
Never ever plant a Eucalyptus tree in California or anywhere outside Australia! They are fire hazards and extremely invasive. Burn especially hot because of the oil inside! They are native to Australia.
What season(s) would your recommend planting? Many areas in the Sac valley have really hard, volcanous (sp?) dirt and digging in summer is impossible. Orangevale here
Planting in high wind spots? If I am planting 3’ baby thin trees (Podocarpus Maki) in a very windy spot (15mph+ 24/7), how do I get them to grow straight all the way up with branches on all sides? Should I have multiple attachment points up the stake so the top doesn’t grow bent over?
It's best to only use native soil so the tree can quickly acclimate to its new surroundings, and so the drainage in the planting hole is identical to the drainage of surrounding soil. As for fertilizer, it's best to let the tree grow at the pace that nature intended. Unless a specific soil deficiency has been identified, fertilizer is unnecessary and can be harmful by encouraging the formation of weaker wood and potentially attracting pests to an abundance of resulting lush new growth.
As long as the grass isn't invasive like crab or bermuda grass, then that'd be a great alternative! Just as long as it's not added back to the planting hole.
Once planted, they should only be watered 2-3 times per week with 5 gallons each time (for a total of 10-15 gallons per week). We have more watering tips and videos at sactree.org/water.
In Sacramento, Stakes should be applied on the East and West sides of the tree because the winds blow North and South.. Decades back a fruit grower told me to plant the knot of the graft to face wind direction.. I guess this isnt that important of info..
We recommend digging afterward because it's difficult to determine the actual height of the rootball without first removing the tree from the pot to expose the root flare and prune roots if needed. Often the rootball is not as tall as it appears in the pot. Following the steps in this order prevents digging the hole too deeply and having to backfill (backfilled soil is more likely to sink and affect the planting height).
I never agree with these tree planting instructions. Especially since I have heavy clay soil. I always dig a much deeper and wider hole so future root growth has good soil for nutrients. Otherwise the roots will never penetrate the clay soil. Fill hole with mostly good loam soil and mix in some of the original soil.
Needed a video to show students on how to plant trees -this is it. Covers the essentials with the bonus of disposing the stake with flair & elan. The Emerald Ash Bores are headed west. See what Bettendorf Trees are Us (our local tree planting organization) volunteers are doing. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OFgHFwGjS9E.html
