Ethan, For a future video could you demonstrate the free flowing cutting you described? That sounds like an interesting technique and it would be nice to see it in application.
A great, easy to follow, video. I wish you would have spent a little time on how to set the correct blade tension on various blade widths. Also, do you release the blade tension after each use? Thank you. Kevin
Thanks for watching Kevin! I do have a separate video showing my preferred method for tensioning the blade - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MIRyaWGa2dM.html Do I actually do this? No. I find tension has little bearing on the accuracy of the cuts. This video shows what I mean in more detail - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4k-r5utmU2Q.html Always a good idea to release the tension while not using the saw! This will help prevent premature breakage
This setup for the top and bottom wheels functions for crowned tyre bandsaws, the majority of home band saws are like this. However for the tiny minority of flat tyred band saws, the saw blade teeth should just over hang the tyre. For the guides you are spot on. It is probably that you have never had a bandsaw designed for flat tyres, I only know of one or two that were made by Inca a Swiss company.
Thanks! When I make the effort to properly tension my blade this is how I do it - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MIRyaWGa2dM.html Do I actually do this? No. Blade tension doesn’t really matter much when it comes to cutting straight. This video highlights that - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4k-r5utmU2Q.html
Disagree might be too strong of word…you can get quality cuts with the gullet or body of the blade in the centre. It doesn’t make any difference. I tend to use blades wider than a 1/2” especially when cutting large sawmill sized logs. If you put the gullet of a 3/4” or wider blade in the centre of the wheel the back of the blade will be falling off the wheel. This leads to blade coming off when the cutting starts. Truth be told all this setup stuff is negligible anyway. As long as you use your bandsaw properly you will never get drift regardless of your setup. This video shows what I mean - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4k-r5utmU2Q.html
That’s a great question! So when you are cutting curves all the guide bears should spin. When you are cutting straight technically only the thrust bearing should spin…but many folks deal with blade drift. If your blade is drifting the side bearings will spin as well(cause you are actually cutting a curve). This video explains and shows how to get rid of the drift problem- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4k-r5utmU2Q.html
