NOTE: This video shows the best-case scenario. Pulling a primary clutch is only this easy about 25% of the time. The following detailed notes include strategies for removal of more stubborn clutches.
I've always wondered how easy it is to pull a primary as I've never done it myself (you see guys write how-to's all the time but never show you a video). Now I feel more confident, thanks for the vid!
Or you can tip the sled on its side, fill the crank hole with water, wrap the bolt with teflon tape and screw it back in. The pressure will pop it off. I had a puller corkscrew and then snap off. One of my buddies told me to try the water method and it worked!
1:59 I wouldn't do that if I where you. I've heard it's not a good idea to put oil on a tapered surface. Anti-seize is a better option. But that's just what I was told.
Is there a sleeve in the center where the belt rides on? Mine has what looks like a shaft with splines that spins with the engine and it burns through the belts. I just put a new belt on and I smell rubber burning. I looked inside the belt and there are spline burns already that wore into the new belt.
Yeah it should be smooth everywhere that the belt can touch. The belt must be able to slip smoothly when the clutch is not engaged, so the engine can idle. What you're describing sounds wrong for sure.
Dont do it like this he has the danm clutch puller use an impact then smack with hammer dont put a piece of pipe in your clutch to break something he just had it of they dont pop like that I just did it on an old exciter it is a good idea if you got air use it
I need some help figuring out the puller thread size ? My 1977 cat pantera 5000 F/C is suppose to have a hex clutch i guess but has a clutch like your pulling in the video so could you tell me the thread size and if its standard or fine please ?
This could get tricky I may not have the answer. Rather than using the right puller I would use a bolt and hydraulic pressure from water to push off the clutch. If you search for the water trick you'll find how to do it. But I don't know the thread size you will have to find that or use trial and error. you may not be able to find the exact right puller to fit both the engine and the clutch, but the water trick will work as long as you have the right size bolt.
Anyway yes the right tool is better. It also would have cost more to buy the right tool than a replacement used clutch, and shipping for the tool would have taken at least ten days. The pipe contacts two of the towers solidly, and it rests against a flexible plastic that has plenty of give. All clutch holder tools put pressure on the towers that could crack them. This job was done in an RV park driveway as a emergency fix to keep riding. In a pinch and on a budget I would do it the same way again. This channel is no longer focused on old sleds and low budget riding, but I stand by this solution given the circumstances.
no, there is a special puller for the mag that just presses it off, more like a conventional puller. You don't need to tap on the mag to make it release. I don't think the mag side is a tapered shaft like the clutch side is.
+Jonathan Michelin oh yeah, you could stick a bar through the clutch to stop it, I think that's what I did. I had to rebuild the water pump on the same sled, it had crazy high miles. I think there is other ways but I can't remember at the moment.
I got it off, I have a 02 sx viper 700 triple, a friend said take the vacuum line off and stick a Allen key in there and rotate the clutch till the crank locks the key into thr slot, I dropped a 13 mm wrench over the clutch, come to find out it jammed it lol worked out, now come to find out my puller is a chain saw and kids skidoo only..... Its too small haha
