A tip for bleed&refill: First off, use a blunt tip with a good internal diameter on the syringe. A luer lock with flex tip is great for thick oils. Then, when you press the bubbles out, stick your needle a few mm`s into the fill-port, and press in more oil as you decompress the shock, saves you a lot of time and a little bit of the mess ;)
For anyone wondering, the extra oil in the piggybag is for cooling the oil. It has no other function. If it's not a piggybag shock it's called an inline shock. They are a bit lighter, but has a lot less oil in them and therefore get hotter much faster.
Discovered this video after buying some RCLions Piggyback shocks of Amazon, that have no instructions. As far as I can tell, RCLions isn’t even a brand, but that aside, this was really helpful, but my shock has a spring inside the “piggyback” part, and two metal disks, that arguably the oil should go between, but then how does it get out? I just know they will be better than the stock ones, but currently they don’t have any oil in them because I don’t understand the purpose of the disks.
every time you pump the shocks to get the air bubbles out, you're actually putting more air in when the shock rebounds back out. If you fill both reservoirs up really well, you won't need to fill it up as much with the syringe. Once it's almost full you do the final air pump upwards or use a air vacuum to get all the air out.
So D. Khoung would you say that it’s best to let oils rest in shock bodies fully extended then only pump up like once and then close cap off and hope for very little rebound meaning the more you pump the more air bubbles you’ll create and have to fight against Wonderful statement you made I hope I have my answer correct 🤔😎 thank you either way
@@gonzodetroitify yup. You got it. I also have a vacuum pump that brings all the air bubbles up to the top faster. They're not too expensive and I use them for my differentials as well. Especially for the really thick differential fluids. You can also do emultion style shocks if you don't want to mess with trying to get the air out.
@@d.khoung359 awesome D.Khoung I think I’m getting the hang of my savage xl shocks and this is what I somewhat used tho I used a few many pumps now I have heard where I went wrong I’m more prepared for the thicker shock oil weight job up soon with ALOT less pumps and hope this time around😎😎😎 thank you man D🤣
Hi y'all. Can anyone point me in right direction just got inter spring shocks for my 10th scale crawler are you supposed to use shock oil? There wasn't any in them just rebuild kits and three different strength springs. thank you✌️
Hey, OZ. I have acquired a set of these shocks and have filled them per this vid but I am not getting any sag on my scx10 chassis. Got any tips? Also, any ideas if softer springs exist? Im struggling for a brand to search.
The O-Zone hey brother thanks for the reply. They are generic shocks clearly, albeit good ones. If i turn up anything I'll report back. Keep the good vids coming 🍻
Exactly, this chap gets it ! Those are not volume compensating reservoirs at all, they are in fact FAKE, yep, you heard correctly, FAKE ! They are simply just empty cylinders that do nothing but let the damper oil aeriate and foam up as there is not any kind of IFP (internal floating piston) to seperate the oil on the damper side from an air space behind the IFP in the reservoir (to allow an ammount of the air at atmospheric pressure to compress as the damper shaft gets compressed into the body of the damper) If you completely fill the damper body and reservoir with oil so there is no air space you will not be able to compress the damper shaft because the volume of the shaft has to go somewhere to be displaced but it cant because you have filled the damm thing completely with oil and there is no provision to allow for the increase in volume, hope this makes sense, although a better explanation can be found in Racetechs Suspension Bible.
