This is the best video for injecting Slime into Presta valves with non removable cores. The only difference was I didn't do mine on the living room carpet. Brahahaha!
Used this for FAT BIKE tube. Superbly done and helpful. Thanks. Adaptations that proved helpful for me: 1) use a wire hanger (or any heavy-gauge wire) to push stem pin down into tube 2) use small vise grips (instead of clip) to gently hold the pin in place once it's chillin' in the tube 3) put your lips on the valve and suck in to draw the pin back into the valve if it doesn't slide down there naturally
Thank you KriegerKrieg for this video! For a few years, I had Flat Attack in my mountain bike tubes (with many thorn holes), and never lost any air. Recently I started riding 50 miles a day to lose 70 lbs over the last couple of months (yea me!). When my back tire wore down, I decided to swap the outer tubes so the less worn front tube would be on the back, while I ordered more outer tubes on Amazon. Using screwdrivers to remove the tube, I punctured it (ARGH!), so rather than wait for an Amazon order delivery, I purchased a couple of prefilled Slime tubes from Walmart. I added Presta valve inner tubes, and Schrader adapters (because the Presta tubes were considerably less expensive for the highest rating), and Flat Attack to my Amazon order of outer tubes. In the last couple of weeks, my Slime tube got punctured, with a round hole the size of an average safety pin. I've had to air up my Slime tube every 2 or 3 days. Today it deflated too low to ride, and I had to walk my bike back home. (Never needed a bike mounted air pump with Flat Attack.) Then found out that Presta stems don't remove like Schraders. Thanks again for the video. My Presta tubes now have Flat Attack in them. If you want sealant that actually seals, get FLAT ATTACK, not Slime!
Thanks for the tutorial. I have no experience with Presta valves and just bought a 29er with them. Shop said you couldn't remove the core for adding sealant. I called BS and came straight to YT and found your "how to" .
Thanks for the video. It worked like a champ for me! On another note, I was going to replace my rear Slime tube because it acquired too many thorn holes over the months and would slowly leak out. Unfortunately, the new Slime tubes I received from an online retailer had the wrong valve stem. So, I put Slime in an old, non-Slime tube that had a thorn puncture. I got a three hour ride with that tube yesterday, and it's still up to pressure this morning. Thanks for saving my ride yesterday!
It works for me. I used a file to get rid of the stop at the end of the thread. Then the captive nut was free. Getting the valve core back in place was only possible after partly inflating the tube to clear the blockage.
I saved myself about $50 using only one can of slime, fixing 8 tires all with many punctures (we ran over 'puncture vine' or dry spiky goatheads). Shrader valves are dead easy but 6 of the punctures were on tubes with presta valves. The only difficult part is getting the screw pin to come back into the valve housing (4:35 on the video). One tube was so stubborn that the pin would not come back through the valve housing no matter how hard I tried. If you get into this situation, then as a last resort and this worked for me, is to poke an unfurled paper clip through the tube (thereby giving an extra puncture, which the slime will eventually seal) and push the pin back up into the housing.
Thanks for the vid. I live in the middle of nowhere so I cant easily buy new tubes, and thorns are unavoidable. Ive switched to Slime because the Stans is great until it sprays onto your clothes and stains them. With the Slime I have a fighting chance of cleaning it off with some water if I get sprayed, and its much easier to obtain around here.
It would be a good idea to file the tip before removing the captive nut, otherwise you could damage the thread or the inside of the valve. Also, if you tie a thin fishing line to the core, the job can be done without removing the tube.
This is a very useful video--I had originally thought that this couldn't be done with a non-removable presta valve core. ALSO: Loved the music--it has a"Mission Impossible" feel to it...😛
The entire top piece of the valve can be twisted off the base. He didn't have to let that little piece sink in or even remove the tube or even wheel. People watching this first check if you have a removable inner core, will make adding sealant much easier.
Only if the tube has a removable valve core which this doesn't and is the point of the video. Many budget presta valves are solid and considered non-removable. Like you said if it had a removable core this would have been much easier.
it is a NON removable presta valve core like the one i got stuck with . they suck .my bike uses the Schrader valve but those tubes in 29 inch aren't available on this little island . so had to buy this crap . but im going to try this trick for filling with sealant . cool trick thanks
you pull the core out of a schrader valve and fill it.(takes a slotted tool to pull it out, but some stem caps have the tool on them) the valve assembly will come out from the cap side.
Excellent thanks very much! That saved me ordering more tubes, thought I'd really screwed up for a minute there. Think I can manage this though. Brillant cheers.
Thanks for the vid spot on , I set up Schrader tubes (using attachment and instructions that came with bottle of slime )and this vid for presta tubes with the other bottle of slime I had ,both set ups were easy .......don't follow the other plonkers on other vids using turkey baisters.
I've used the same method you show in your video. Some of the Prestas with long valves can challenging to get the valve/pin back in place since it's not as long as the stem. Still, I've never seen one I couldn't get to work.
great! i have 2 bikes and I've already put one bottle in one bike, but the second one, has this kind of valve...so i was wondering how to do it....so thanks man! gracias.
I don't know how you got this to work but when I tried, the Slime would do as it's designed and would coagulate in the valve stem making it impossible to put any measurable volume into the tube. I tried all manner of squeezing the bottle, soft, hard, I made sure the valve was all the way out and rattling around in the tube. Then, I decided to give up, clean out what little was in there, and just put it back together, then I discover that the valve, itself, is keyed so after another 1/2 hour or so of trying to get it to the correct rotation so it would slide back into the stem, I just said screw it and got another tube. I then cut the old tube just to see what was going on and with just the valve stem itself, cut away from the tube, with no valve installed, and the bottle of slime, I could not get the slime to go past the valve stem except for a few drops. The harder I squeezed, the harder it coagulated. I don't know if you had some thinner or older formulation of slime but I would no longer recommend this method to anyone.
Tried this step by step, couldn't get valve core back out :( slime gone hard now.. Wasted new tubes and wasted slime £17 down the pan. Fuck slime! Saving up for tubeless set up lol was worth a try
DOES THE fastener hold the end of the core , or simply prevent it from retreating ? Is a longer valve easier to handle in the described procedure? Thank u.
Was it really that easy to hold on to core & refit it? Or have you had plenty of prior practice before filming? Plus, visual instruction with suitable background music is so much better. You Tube have too many irritating egos that can be annoying.
It was easy, as I remember it. However I have switched from slime (glycol and cotton/rubber chunks) to stan's or truckerco cream which are latex based tire sealants. I have run both of those in tubes and tubeless setups. If you are checking out tubeless I would recommend the "ghetto" style tubeless with gorilla tape and stan's sealant. It worked great on this bike.
@@KriegerKrieg Took the easy option left both wheels with the cycle shop. Although repairing five punctures, I was pissed off at that point. Had a cut through the side wall, needed new tyre as well. Had really bad luck that day. Plus, I hadn't seen your informative video.
Won't work with the Presta adapter. The valve in the Presta blocks the Slime from going in. I have a video showing basically what this does, but also one showing how to change your Presta wheel to a Schrader so you don't have to deal with crappy Presta valves. I have yet to understand why these are so popular.
This is unbelievable. I purchased the slime and I was very confused as to how I could get through the stupid presta valve tubes that I have. A Schrader valve is to wide and won't fit threw the holes on my rims so u unless I get new rims which I can't afford I am forced to use presta vales . I didn't see it on the bottle at first but they even put in red on the bottle for Schrader valve only . Now why the hell do they say that when they could give the instructions you show us here. it was easier than I thought jt would be . Companies just LOVE to bullshit more and more
i used slime in both the front and rear and i run over all kinds of stuff from glass to huge bolts and no flats plus the tires have kevlar so double protection lol
Odd question but do you know if anyone has tried this for road tires with presta valves? Basically this would be useful if one was going for a long distance ride and didn't want to tack on extra weight of having a spare innertube.
Had the same question. Apparently, there's no room for the slime to expand unlike mtn bike tires. Rd tires are very thin and so r the tubes so take a spare.
