I like your style. I might adapt some of some of your techniques! I'm a brick mason at a technical school and I would love to do masonry for the rest of my life!
I really want to build my on one and I am so scared of asking to someone who doesn't know for safety reasons hope your video helps me, greetings from Mexico.
Hi, is it necessary to tie in the bricks with steel rods? I’ve had some builders say yes and some no. Wasn’t sure if just personal preference or guidelines.
Hi, is it necessary to tie in the bricks with steel rods? I’ve had some builders say yes and some no. Wasn’t sure if just personal preference or guidelines. This is re a chimney stack with total of 13 rows
Smart. I personally would have tied the internal courses in to the exterior, but every bricky has their own ways. Glad to see you enjoy what you do. I wouldn’t change my job for anything 👍🏽 keep it up.
Nice Job Chris, you choose a solid brick which looks very nice. For chimney rebuilds can you also use 3 hole brick or should chimneys always have solid brick? I have seen both which is why I'm asking.
Might have been nice to see a lead DPC going in at the correct level . Thus stopping wet penetration being dragged down below the roof line by gravity and also some expanded metal or SS ties to bond the inner flues to the outer skins .
They are optional, every chimney that hasn't got a lead dpc tray in doesn't have that problem (water penetrating the stack into roof space and down onto ceiling)! most chimneys haven't got them.. lead trays also have their faults! Usually water penetration is poor capping, no corbeling and damaged lead flashing...
Granted. Why not build tray in as a fail safe though? Piece of four pound through that stack at the right height could save a lot of future heart ache. I only guarantee to stop a stack leaking by putting one in combined with correct flashings etc.
The chimney may only be for decoration, but i am sure its not going to fall down , the centre divider is locked in ,i always render as i lay and i use a waterproofer in the mortar and they stay dry ,unless you use stainless ties you can get more problems from rusting ties
stack opposite corners when doing your corbels at the top then you end up with 2 maybe 3 3 quarters instead of a Lil 2 inch peice you know. good videos I live it the USA so we do stuff different but good job interesting. such as we lay the frogs down. lol the indent in the brick we call frogs. what do u mates call em
Hi, no the lead goes in after the chimney is built up. The joints are raked out as the chimney is built. The lead soakers are added along with the tiles and then the stringers and apron is added and the final touch is the fitting of the ridges.
There should be a small door somewhere at the bottom of the chimney. Look for it and if you can't find it call a professional chimney sweep because it must be cleaned and that's where you take the soot out. Have him inspect it while he's there.
All this crap about no lead doc trays .I've just been working on a new estate and theses are no Mickey mouse houses and not a single dpc tray in chimney stacks anywhere. If old chimney stacks I've worked on and are over 200 years old and no damp then the old builders knew more then we do .Plus one other thing I've had to take down 2 chimneys in high wind areas due to the weak spot at doc level as chimney not stable. If chimney constructed right then you don't need a doc tray thats why millions of house don't have them and millions don't have damp problems
evnmny evnmny Answered this kind of question previously...All chimney's have queen closures, go out and look on any chimney stack.... Could you put a demo vid on and show me how it's done, look forward to seeing your effort🤔
evnmny evnmny Cobblers, standard practice as 3/4 bricks through the bond out....This is how the glorious Victorians did it and their chimneys are still working today lol... Again, boot put me a vid of you showing us how you'd do it
once you’ve squared it at the first course it will keep square as you plumb all sides and as you build use a large square the ones roofers use and keep putting it on your corners as you progress. Also you could set up profiles which you usually see on building sites and they will help! Hope that helps- Good luck in your chimney build
He’s a good bricklayer, but an architect would make him take it down. No lead~tray or liners. Many good builders don’t know what a lead~tray looks like ?
@@michaelj.k.9408 A lead-tray is a sheet of lead at the very base of the chimney that in effect splits the chimney in two. Bricks above the lead-tray can be permanently wet, bricks / wall below the tray remain dry. Technically it should be code 5 lead, but I only use code 4. Three sides of the tray are turned UP, not down . Only one side has the lead facing down. This side has plastic weep vents at the perps (vertical joints). The sheet of lead when installed covers all the flues, only flues that are to be used have a hole cut the diameter of the clay liner . The liner can not be smaller than 185mm internally. Turn the lead UP around the liner and seal with a good mastic (CT1). As the stack goes up fill the void between brick and liner with mica/cement weak mix. Stack as many liners as needed until you reach the top and then stick a pot on, not a bit of drainpipe. Fit a cowl. Hope this helps and good luck
@@Known-unknowns am I right in thinking that the underside of lead tray has to be painted in bitumen paint, sure I seen it on a spec somewhere, it’s a while since I’ve done one to be honest but the amount of chimleys I’ve seen that don’t get a lead tray put in and then when it pisses down and the damp goes down the stack and it goes yellow round the breast at the ceiling and the poor roofers get called out and bollocked , then the chimney gets treated with the special waterproof sealer which does f all 😂😂
