Absolute killer video mate. You’ve got to be the best around for explaining in detail and showing a person how to do a perfect job. Top top bloke mate. Amazing content. Please do more videos, so long as it entails Shoguns or Pajero’s 😂 thanks.
Thanks for video. Made job easy. BTW I also used a 2x4 on bottle jack as well and for info the jack will shoot about six feet across the floor if it slips off.
I didn't really catch (silly me) was this procedure for lifting your front end or lowering it? I have a problem with my Pajero; I guess the previous owner had it lifted to the top as much as he could and therefore the suspension is very hard. I mean when I hit a pothole or a bump it really feels like it could drop my teeth out. So I think I should lower the front end to make it a bit softer, right? Thanks for the video, it was really helpful. Very good camera angles. -Jussi
Tsouns1 this is for raising or lifting. Depends on which way you go with the bars. Most times when people raise it but don’t trim the droop stops (bump stops on underside of upper control arms) the car is sitting hard against the rubber stops giving that hard ride. If this is the case cut them off at half way.
Have you checked the camber angle of the wheels after having done this? reindexing the bars for a front lift has this consequence. you need to correct the camber by shimming the A arms.
I'm not sure why you did screw the torsion saddle back not in to the same position before re-indexation. I thought that is the idea of moving torsion for 2 splines (or so) to screw torsion saddle back into original position what will make chassis lift for 2 inches (or so). I am about to lift my Pajero for exactly 2 inches and if you can explain me this I'll be thankfull. Thanks!
Eger Theis hi there. Moving it by 1 or 2 splines does not give an exact amount of lift, every car is different. The idea is to allow more torsion to be applied which gives it more lift. How much lift exactly is trial and error. You just have to keep winding / measuring until you’re at the desired height
Thank you for the video! Just one question. If I understand corectly, you can make minor adjusments just by tightening the thingy (15:30), you don't have to take the whole torsion bar out? My Pajero sits 1.5cm lower on driver side (34cm passenger, compared to 32.5 driver side), so maybe I could just tighten the torsion bar on driver side? And if that is not enough I just turn the torsion bar one or two slots? Sorry for my bad english, again, thanks for the video.
Hi! Thanks for the video. Small question though. On my car, front tires are wearing more on the inside. Does the height of the front affect how the pressure is applied on the wheels under load? Or is that totally unrelated? Thanks, Sybren
Sybren Vanheeswyck yes when you raise the front it effectively shortens the tie rods making the car toe in. So you’ll need a wheel alignment to counteract this.
You can buy coil spacers. I could only find 30mm for Pajero. I bought Y61 Patrol spacers and had an engineer modify them on a lathe. Best option is either lwb springs to raise a swb 2” or standard Y60 patrol springs to raise lwb by 2”. I have a video on coil spring swap
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 thanks for the reply bud. i have a LWB so i ll try to find patrol springs. another question, to index the torsion bars do i need to do the ball joint spacers? i m still not that into ball joints etc hah
Would indexing the splines be reversed for a right hand drive car I live in the AU and I was wondering if this could give me some extra height just a bit more than what’s current
Hey mate, what's the difference between re indexing the torsion bar from the front versus the rear? I've seen a video of a guy installing a torsion bar on a pajero but he adjusted the splines in the rear instead of the front, any differences?
@@ani095 sometimes it can depending on if they’re wound up and not reindexed. And most common is being wound hard against the droop stops. Makes it very bouncy
Thanks for reply! Just a quick question though, I have a 2006 mazda b2500, If I wanna just adjust the ride height on the front to make even, should I just tighten each bolts on the back clockwise and then re check? Thanks for your help @@PERTHSCOOTER07
It's funny cause if I heard anyone talk to themselves like that without a visual of the camera, I would of said the same thing...damn near thought you lost your marbles.
How does this affect ride quality? Does it put any additional load on the torsion bars? I am worried this will increase the rotational force of the torsion bars and snap them. Thanks.
Mudd Blood I’ve had 7 Gen 2 Pajeros. All modified. I’m in the Pajero club and I’ve never heard of a torsion bar snapping. Winding them up does increase ride stiffness however.
Good man ted.never had to do till now.an had a feeling not as simple as to just tighten them up.as if one wanted to be the king of steel he be a torsion bar. an hat off to you well explained. G day mate.👍
Great video. The kid made me smile as I thought of my own granddaughters. I’m hoping to lift my Shogun Sport as I put new springs in and they lifted the back end around two inches. Need to get it levelled.
Excellent, really good information and really good explained how to finish the job, this will help me to adjust my Montero sport uneven height problem, thanks for good video.
Hey, Great video. exactly what i needed to know. will reindexing the torsion bars allow me to get a bigger lift in the front than just adjusting the back of them.
ShitAbysss if your torsion bars are sagged, which they probably are, you run the risk of maxing them out (running out of bolt thread) but you could always try just winding them up first.
Very nice video, congratulations. Interesting for the same job I would like to do on my L200 pickup. All the mechanics seem the same and you made everything very clear, but for my very bad English, I didn't understand how you adjusted the heights between the two sides. In practice, the 6 laps you did do, how much difference do they equal? I understand that you have to make several attempts to get to the right setting, but if you can write like this I understand it better. How many lines do you think I have to move? I would just like to recover the original height, because I believe that after 18 years and 500000km and the front car looks very low. Little off-road, a little dirt and a lot of motorway, the bars have given up the tension, I often hear unnerved. L200 2002 model 115CV turbo diesel 4d56 engine Thank you. Alessandro
Alessandro Trigilio hi there. I used a tape measure from the bottom of the wheel arch to the top of the wheel rim. I make sure both sides are the same. But then I make the drivers side approx 5-10mm higher to allow for drivers weight.
Hello! love the video and gives me confidence. here is my question. I am in the states, and have a 1st gen Montero(as known here) and I just got a new lift from Old Man Emu.... I guess I am just more curious about replacing the bars rather than indexing them.... I cant seem to find any info. do you know... will I need to align them a certain way in regards to marks from OME on the ends of the bar? or is their orientation not so important if I am replacing the whole bar?I just can not find any videos about actual replacement, only indexing existing bars...
srennocleinad the bars should be marked left and right. And if Gen 1 is same as Gen 2 then they will only fit one way as the spline size is different front to rear.
I work for a mechanic shop that used to do mobile inspections. When they stopped the jacks were surplus to requirements and were getting thrown out. So I got lucky there
Fantastic easy to understand ---- I was worried about trying this Never dealt with torsion bars before, but after seeing your video feel confident of having a go (Hope not to much rust. >>> 427,000 on clock :-)
Thanks for this video mate. I've got a Mk1 LWB which I'm gonna do this with and I heard you mention that yours was sagging a little in the rear. What's the simplest procedure for raising that up? Thanks from Ireland.
That block of wood between your jack and the torsion bar seemed a bit sketchy because it added another pivot point. Why not put the jack straight up to the bar? I saw it shift once... Great video though, thank you.
So... No fresh grease in the front torsion bar boot? Why did you need to do this? Just for a video or was there an issue? Good clear home video though.. Thanks.
damage1_1 why did I need to re-index? Because you can only achieve a certain amount of lift by just winding the bolts in the stock position. And the grease thing is not an issue.
If you mean the electronic dampers I’m not sure how long they are so yes you can do this but I’d leave the upper droop stops full length to avoid over extending the shock.
What are you talking about man the Sound was super clear and not muffled at all. I think it must be just your speakers dude. One of the best videos ive seen. Really well explained Thank you
I have a 98 nh paj and i was wondering if this will only raise the front? as i have heavy duty springs on the back and it looks lifted from the back and stock in the front so i was wondering if this could equal out?
If the front is only a bit down from the back. You might not need to re-index. You might have enough adjustment to just wind them up in their current position
jeffrey ortiz-luis yes no problem. The suspension will sag over time, so if it’s sagged by an inch and you want 2” lift, that 3” all up. To wind the torsion bar bolt enough for 3” lift you’ll probably run out of threads and end up winding the bolt shoulder hard up to the nut. This is when it’s likely to snap.
@@PERTHSCOOTER07 Got it, no its not max out yet, still got plenty of room to wind it up, i just raised it to clear my bigger tires to avoid rubbing on the corner bumper plastic on extreme cornering and dips. but yes if the saddle bolt is maxed, its time to index the torsion bars.