Incredibly informative material here, brother! First-class all the way! I have been watching videos and clips trying to learn how to read live data for 20+ years still not quite understanding it all. In 14 min you just topped all of the others! Wow! Thank you sir. Outstanding!
Awesome video! I’ve had a scanner for a while but never understood what exactly to look for as far as live data in diagnosing my problem. Thank you for your time!
2016 Sonata Hybrid 151k miles Idling in Maint mode after 20 mile drive Smooth idle No power loss No mpg loss No rotten egg smell Some lifter noise at slow speed, light accelerator, uphill before gearing down. P0420 New 02 sensor on Bank1 S1 (cat is in manifold) Sensor 2 (in front of lower cat) is factory. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 👍 STFT 15.6% LTFT -32.0 02S12 (V) = .790 V 02S11 (mA) 0 to -.05 STSO2FT1 -1.6% LGSO2FT1 3.1% CATTEMP11 (576 Celsius) CATTEMP12 (400 Celsius) LAMBDA11 0.998 ish LAMBDA 0.999 ish
Basically, yes. Vacuum leaks tend to be persistent, and that likely shows up as positive on LTFT: you'll see that fade to a lower number as throttle body opens most cases, but STFT picks up first. If fuel pressure is to high, or injector metering more than designed [for whatever reason] trim shows up negative. STFT is more of a fine tuning/rapid response - it should be active, as temperatures and manifold air pressure vary during operation, and sensors provide feedback to ECU. LTFT keeps you in workable mixture range [steady state] to allow STFT to nail down air/fuel ratio [changing speeds].
Fuel trims somtimes are not accurate, caused by one the sensors, like mine the MAP sensor cause both fuel trim to be at 12 to 14 percent, i tought i have vacuum leak, but it was the aftemarket delphi MAP senosr reporting wrong values to the ECM, i just put back the OEM sensor and the fuel trim went down to 5 percent. I couldnt believe it, the initiale issue was rought idling and somtimes engine misfire, but it was the ignition electric connection wires were loose at the aftermarket start button system, basically i create the problem overtime by using bad quickdisconnect connector, i replace the connector and problem solved partially rought idle and misfire, but fuel trim problem got fixed by installing OEM MAP sensor back.
I have a 2014 Jeep JK that has had a small engine surge while going down road. At idle, not detected. Least surge is not detected on tach, the up/down is so quick, really doesn’t have time to register. Worst cases, while going up a hill around 35-40mph, by ear it is swinging much more and you can see on tach that it is 50-75 rpm fluctuations. No codes at all. Looking at o2 sensors and fuel trims after engine is in op temp but at idle, o2 upstreams are bouncing all over 75mv up to 800+. Again it is so quick, can not grab a solid number. Downstream sensors however, b1s2 sits around 250mv while b2s2 is around 685mv. While these o2 readings are taking place, fuel trims stftb1, stftb2 and ltftb2 are bouncing between .0 and -3.9. Ltftb1 sits at 0, no movement. It will change when revved up, but still not hanging near where the others are going. Could b1s2 o2 sensor be going out? Could that cause my surge? Shops I have taken it to say no code, no problem without looking at it to see what I’m hearing and seeing. 84k miles on engine and first issues I’ve had. Owned since new.
9.4 fuel trim is a bit high.. 😅 I won't even tell you what mine was then lol I haven't got to figure out my p0171 lean code yet but I think it was because I didn't have an air filter on my cold air because it fit different on my 98 cobra, or i need to plumb the valve cover vent back into the crankcase for positive vacuum because the 98 was a little different that the 01 cobra but it was dumping about 25% on the trim. Luckily im still breaking in the motor so there was no getting in it with those trim levels.
I was looking at the reading on mine 02 sensor it's not responding and it's stuck on a number I looked at the graph flat line is that a bad O2 sensor it's causing backfires and a random misfire
Hey. Superb video. I have strange problem with short fuel trims. My engine is BMW M54B30. On bank 1 i got +25-28%, but on bank 2 it is ok 0 to 5%. I know that my oxygen sensor after cat on bank1 is dead. Is this can affect on fuel trims? MAF is working, I checked rubber hoses and there is no cracks. Help please. Thanks.
Hello I have a 07 g35x and my long term ban 2 is staying at 35.2 everything else is fine do can you tell me why that’s happening is it a oxygen sensor and how do I figure out which sensor it is I’m also get a code p0174 I’d appreciate your help
Got P0171 lean bank 1 on 03 S10 2.2 engine , LTFT at 1100 rpm 21.9. STFT 3.1. No vacuum leaks , would you have any ideas ? Thanks , I have 18lbs of vacuum at idle
Great video I have a 1997 suburban 454 3out if the 4 o2s are reading 700ish MV and long term fuel both banks is +9 do you think my o2s are bad? ThNk you for any advice...
Greetings, I have a suzuki Kizashi 2.4L S. The ecu throws check engine light with p0101 code. The fault code is thrown under 3 conditions: 1. Coasting downhill with zero to minimim accelerator input. (Tps at 19.6 degree, MAF at 10-11g/sec) 2. Cold start after 24+hours in colder environment. Ltft drops down suddenly to -11 to -17% but goes back to 0-3% 3. High rpm idle test. Rpm set at 2.5k, stft increases from +1% to 5% and then returns back to 0%to1%. Can you suggest a way forward? I also have a bad valve cover gasket
I have 1500cc petrol engine in toyota ...... I tried two maf sensor one giving 1.3 g/s at 650 rpm.... Another giving 1.7 g/s at 650 rpm.... Which one should i use for better fuel economy.....plz reply
Hi how are things ? I have a 2011 Mazdaspeed 3 2.3L Turbocharged with Rich's issues I have the long term fuel trim at sometimes -16, -19,- 17, as the car warms up it becomes more negative, speeding up the long term fuel trim fuel trims, it goes down to -9.50 or sometimes -10.50 could the problem be a vacuum leak, or air leak after the MAF sensor? the short terms always go 0 -0 sometimes +7 but when accelerating sharply sometimes it jumps to crazy numbers like -17 or sometimes +20 what could be the problem friend? I would like to hear the comment
I have a 2004 liberty 3.7 I got two codes, p0132 and p0152 every thing from the pcm to the connectors is okay, I checked resistance in every cable and all are okay, I changed both o2 upstream sensors oem, and still the same keep steady Reading of 1.270 on both o2 Sensors, down stream sensors Reading are weird also, I got 0.035 on both sides sometimes they go up to 0.700 and sometimes the upstreams start to oscilate but for a few seconds. Do you know what can be causing this?
Hi, I hope you’re still checking your channel. I have a question on data stream codes. What does it mean when my oxygen sensor codes give me N/A instead of a number. (O2B1S1 N/A) I have a reading for B1S2 but then not B2S1, B2S2, B3S2, B4S1 (all have N/A). BTW thank you for these videos. Could you do more on all these other codes? SPARKADV, MAF, etc
Thanks for the information, I'm no mechanic, trying to fix an Issue I'm having with my Acura TSX 2009, it's giving me error code P0131, changed the spark-plugs, ignition. coils and even fuel injectors, but problem didn't go away. Car doesn't go over 20 mph ad checkengine is blinking. I got Foxwell scanner recently, but not sure what numbers I should be looking for when in comes to O2! SHRTFT1: -31.3, LONGFT1: -3.9, SHRTFTB1S2: -31:3
got a 09 qx56 infinity, longft1 -3.9 shortft1 -3.9 longft2 -7.0 shorth ft2 3.1 02B1S1 2.47 02B3S1 2.255 02B3S2 0.080 02B1S2 0.050, getting p 0420 code, change bank1 sensor 2 and MAF sensor, CEL stayed off for a day and back on now. took off exhaust bolts and was told CAT looks fine, any advise.
what does it mean if both my o2b1s1 and o2b1s2 go to a steady 0.20 (could be 0.020 i forget, but point is it's steady and will have pending code) when the fan or stereo is on? when i turn both off, those sensors seem to fluctuate again. also, are the o2 sensors supposed to go to steady value like i mentioned in park? all my o2 sensors (2 banks 2 sensors each) drop to a steady 0.20 or 0.40 in park. or is that a function of not being in closed loop like you mentioned, because i didnt let my bank 1 sensors run long enough (because of the stereo or fan being on)?
Great video's on live data. I'm new to reading live data and I need some guidance on how to diagnose a high-idle condition on a 2005 Corolla. Idle is around 1,000 RPM and is a quite rough so I assumed a vacuum leak, but I've checked/changed all vacuum hoses and even replaced the MAF sensor and confirmed no manifold or PCV leaks. Since the car is 18 years old (original owner), I've replaced both O2 sensors and all injectors which improved the vibration level, but it is still present. The last thing I did to the car was to clean out the throttle body (there is no IAC valve). Here are some live-date anomalies (at operating temp) after my last repair: SHRTFT = -20.3% (LONG is 5.5%), TP = 14.9% and will not go to zero even though the adjustment is full minimum, O2S11 = 2.914V (S12 is .095V). Do you have any idea what may be causing the rough, high idle?
Thanks for the video. I ran the OBD on my car, monitored values real time and found that my bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2, sensor 1 are showing values between 4% and -4%. However, bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2 are both stuck at 99.22%. Getting P2096 code after I got the shop to install the complete catback solo exhaust. What's your take on this? Can't be the sensors going bad. I am assuming they didnt plug it in properly etc....
Very nice video good info. I'm sitting at idle and it's all negative for stft 25 and ltft 35.2. 2014 gmc sierra but I get a code saying it's to rich on bank 2. Any suggestions
I have a 2001 chevy prizm 1.8 toyota vvt , (no i or 4 , different engines). Should the readings be the same where the O2 sensors or air/ fuel sensor and fuel trim readings are concerned? Thanks. J.
Should I be checking theses while idling? My truck seems to be having issues when I am towing and going up hill. No codes, no misfires, took to shop for a trans flush. Dropped pan, all looked good. No metal in pan and fluid wasn’t that dirty. When I punch it, I can feel and hear that my truck is not shifting like it used to, and when I am towing up hill my truck will jump when I’m 1st or 2nd. Once I get pass 2Nd truck seems to run fine. So I have a OBD reader plugged in right now and I am trying to understand the terminology etc. so, when checking my O2 sensors and fuel trim, should I be checking while driving or in idle? Bc when I step on it, my % goes well over 10%. Hope all this makes sense. Thanks for your vids
It sounds like you are saying the cold air intake, bigger intake air hose, or bigger throttle body does not make a difference since the ECU will simply adjust (eg keep the throttle body more closed) to compensate/restrict the extra air intake to keep the same 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio. Correct?
Excellent Video... much appreciated. I have a 1996 E-150 5.8L EFi . Have ABS light on, OBD2 reader says "This vehicle does not support ABS communication" is that correct ? if so do you know of any other way to identify the faulty sensor (assuming it is a sensor fault) also..... when backing off the throttle the RPM holds, at whatever RPM you were at, for 2 - 3 seconds before dropping.... any ideas ? there is the occasional hickup at idle and sometime it stalls. PCV valve replaced. Any help would be much appreciated. Regards Paul
Hi, one of my upstream sensors on my 2014 Ford Mustang is showing a negative value. My STFT for bank 1 is +34 and for bank 2 it's -25. Both long-term are 0. My vehicle is not running well. Rough idle, poor acceleration, bad gas mileage, sometime I smell the rotten egg/sulpher smell, etc. No check engine light. Please help. Thank you.
These values while the car is not moving, idle, what happens when you step on the gas or open the throttle? How much should the short and long fule trim be???
Cold air intake will gain power. A lot of factory ecu are calibrated to be a little richer at wide open throttle, adding the cold air intake leans it out a little and gain power. Closed loop is only used during idle and cruising.
Great video. I have a vehicle that reads: O2 B1S1 .9mv O2 B1S2 .0mv O2 B2S1 .0mv O2 B2S2 1.0mv STFT bank 1 -20% STFT bank 2 30% LTFT bank 1 -4% LTFT bank 2 30% Inj. duty bank 1 4.4msec Inj. duty bank 2 11.5msec
Awesome, was looking at the live data the other day for a p0141 on a rav4, and you are correct not a lot of good content exists, so thank you and keep'em coming:)
Got negative ten long term fuel trims a touch higher on bank 1...a bit low o2 sensor readings on upstream...Maf reading at about 4.3...2001 nissan sentra gxe with the 1.8...runs pretty good but a little rough on the idle...cleaned throttle body and iac...experimented with the egr...any ideas?
Thanks, watched video twice. So understand how its all goes together. ? My shortT reading -17. Longt 0.0 so how I'm understanding my issue is not vacuum leaks. Itd a fuel issue. . so my ? Is I have been putting fuel injector cleaner and its not that. So I'm gonna go with a fuel injector is clogged ? So I would have to basically clean all of them because I don't know what fuel injector is they don't label which one would be the one bad right? Thank you so much for your help. I so understand how it works. So what would I do next do I put maybe a direct cleaner to the fuel injectors or do I have to clean each one by hand which I don't even know how to do I'm going to touch them before and I'm a female mechanic for 25 yes. You and wiring electrical was not my thing though I so confused with injectors does this but if you could like give me a little push or something what should I look for I mean what should I do for the injectors and if it doesn't clear up see my fuel pump was a new fuel pump was put in like I want to say maybe a year and a half ago. I'm leaning more towards of fuel injector clogged I think thank you again have a great night
My short term fuel trim (B1-S3) is reading 99.2% with no fluctuation, is that good or bad ? It's a 99 Blazer 4.3L and B1-S3 is the last sensor. I have B1-S1 driver side. B2-S1 B2-S2 B2-S3 is on passenger side.
I have a 2000 Ford expedition 5.4 my bank 1 is reading -22.7 bank 2 reading -2.3 both first o2 sensor reading good .075, both second o2 sensors reading 0. Do I have multiple issues going on.
What if you drive a Ford and no O2 sensor voltage can be displayed? My bi directional tool can only display microamps on the downstream sensor, which is meaningless to me. I CAN see voltage on my GM and Chrysler vehicles. Does Ford use a different data point at the ECU to adjust fueling?
My 02 sensor reading is negative 8.6 shortFT and negative 7.0 LongFT . Is my upstrean and downstream 02 sensor is bad ? There's no code . My engine stall every after start like its too lean and no air coming in to combustion. After stall its running fine . Fuel and vacuum is fine .
@@metalhalide4043 thanks for your info . I figure out the issue . It was the upstream 02 sensor . I replace upstream 02 sensor because its not reading properly , it has a code before and i cleared the code and never came back since the 02 sensor is acting up . When i test the 02 sensor with multimeter its not reading ohms so i replace it and fix the problem . I have cat delete so my fuel trim is bouncing -5 to 7% for the short fuel trim . Now my long fuel trim is stays at -3% to -.8% . When i rev the engine i got closer to zero % . Thanks budd
@@slipshocks0523 Ya, once the heater element burns out its done, if you got 2 banks its best to replace the upstream in pairs, they start lagging over time and response slows.
Great explanation. I have a Toyota Camry 2.5l Stft. 0.08 and ltft 39.8. I smoked test and did not find any leak. I changed plug coil pak injectors 02 sensors and maf. Still getting low mileage. Pl help 🙏
Hi, I'm having an issue with my car idling kinda rough and hesitating especially when pulling away from a stop. I'm kinda new to using live data I just wondered if you have any suggestions what I should be looking for? thanks, cars not throwing any codes so I'm kinda struggling with where to start.
I changed my plugs, ignition coils and fuel injectors on my ford e-350 6.8 v-10 because I was getting engine miss fire codes and I kept getting the codes after I changed the plugs, so I went ahead and changed the coils and injectors. That solved the miss fires but now it won't pass smog and the other day I noticed I got a rich fuel code on bank 2. The upstream o2 sensor voltage fluctuates between .100-.800 volts on the bank 2 side of the exhaust but the o2 sensor voltage on the bank 1 side stays steady at around .900. which. My question is which o2 sensor is working properly the one staying at a steady voltage or the one that's fluctuating?
also to add to my question if one of my upstream o2 sensors i find is not working properly could that be the cause of the rich fuel code and it failing the smog test. They say it's coming up as a gross polluter mainly on the idle speed test. The higher rpm test also fails but not gross polluter
My o2B1S2 V read 1.0 continuously, fuel system 2 also says nothing instead of OL or CL it’s just a ? Mark. Not sure what that implies, Used the same tool in video thanks
Why is the b1s2 showing really low voltage? I have this on my car, the b1s1 is fluctuating like normal, but the b1s2 shows between about .050 and .075 Thanks!
Thank you for the information, I have a Toyota corolla LE 2012 and I failed the smog test because of 02 sensor and cat but my car did not show any code also I follow a Toyota drive cycle and I drove 360miles highway 55 t0 60 after I slow down without using break just helping the car with hand break to 35-45 but still not ready! but when I plugged my OBD2 IT SHOW THAT MY O2S1 bank1 (V)=3.306 AND O2S1BANK2 (V)= 0.660 the car was warmed up for more than 10 min ! please do I need to change both 02 and after drive it probably it will make the car ready for emission! thank you very much
Thanks for the great video. Helped a lot. I have a problem you didn't cover hoping you could answer for me. My STFT B1 S2 is 99.2 and my STFT B1S1 is - 63. If you could tell me what that is. And what's causing the 99.2. It never changes it like it is stuck. Thanks
Just seeing this sorry, I hope you got it figured out. 9 times out of 10 a maxed out fuel trim (99%) is caused by a bad 02 sensor. See what they're reading. Alot of times when you see the fuel trim at 99 you'll have an 02 sensor not really reading much, no change or super laggy and barely moving at all. Again sorry for the late response.
BANK 2 for me is ~50% STFT! and high LTFT also. I used a smoke machine and found a few intake air vacuum leaks.... but still remained. I used the smoke machine into the TAILPIPE and found a badly leaking exhaust DONUT from the exhaust manifold. $5 fix... will find out tmrw hopefully!
Bro.. I and dealing with 2005 toyota seinna.. Got a code p0174.. But custormer wanted further job like valve cover gasket, rack & pinion.. So code got cleared and i was trying to see if tht code comes back.. It haven't yet but problem i see is bank 2 seems running soo lean since long term is around 19 and short term is like 3.. Bank 1 seems ok adjust its self... While looking at 02 reading upstream is giving 3.3 v which seems coming from pcm reading.. But down stream showing like .05 like in ur video.. I am confesed here...
Do tht means catlytic convertor is clogged... Thts what i cam come up with.. But customer says he changed bank 1 catlytic convertor he have changed like 6 months ago
On my 2003 escape all starts with P2197 then cylinder 4&6 misfire :( Find no leaks, cleaned sensors , changed injectors etc. O my both LONG reads are at = 0 FUEL = CL FAULT ECT = 76 SPARK ADV = 7-12
Hey there question, so in the same way learned by doing the work myself cause I couldn't pay someone but I'm lost when it's coming to this 02 to short term trim stuff. I have a shrtftb2s2(%) 99.2 and my longft are at 25. I have replaced my intake gasket and put old but good I believe 02 sensors in and it shows my 02 sensors are working and shrtft are working fine. Where should I go from here? 01 Silverado. Truck runs bad in open loop then better in closed loop but still not like it should. Any help would be great.
Dear sir , i have some kind of these issue in my car bmw E46 and it says voltage failure bother oxygène sensor ( v ... Fail ) B1S1 AND B1S2 . Sir i have changer the oxygen sensor and still same fault code 2C45 DME : oxygen sensor before cat. Conv.1. sir plz if you could help me to solve this problem . Thanking you in avance sir . Best regards.
Hey great video but I got a question that will stump you.2001 mustang v6 305k miles cats went out .I replaced the factory cats with flowmaster universal and made basically a entire pipe and 2 new downstream o2 sensors.but at idle my b1s2 reads .060 on average b2s2 is at the same but will go up and fluctuate a few times and back down to around .060...do you tft think I may just have the wrong or defective o2 sensors .Car runs great no power loss or smoke.front o2 sensors read like they should .hasn't thrown any codes but won't complete catalysts monitor.
Thank You!! Very informative video.. but what about diagnosing faulty OSS or (Output Speed Sensor) on Transmission 4.6L? I've already wasted money replacing it with 3 different ones.. still having code, and engine light, and O/D light blinking!! Wires all seem to look fine.