I absolutely LOVE these case length tools. In this video I'll explain how to read them for headspace and also how to see if your brass needs trimmed or not. This is valuble information! Enjoy...
The way I understand it(reading Lyman's instructions for using these gauges)is, when checking overall case length you put the cleaned case into the cleaned gauge then set the primer end down on a flat, smooth and hard surface letting it free-stand so that the primer end of the case is even with the head space end of the gauge. When checking head space, you simply drop the cleaned case into the cleaned gauge. The top surface of the case should be above the low grind area and below the high grind area, It appeared to me that these shells fell too far down into the gauge altogether as if the head space was too short. The case length might have been ok if it was checked with the gauge sitting up on end.
@@Yeye3040 I wouldn't say he's a moron. Thats what the community is all about- helping each other out, not name calling. I appreciate his effort in making the video, and I appreciate the comments that correct any information that may not be 100% accurate. God bless, and stay safe.
Thanks! No worries, I'm always learning new things all the time too. The case length gage shows if you need to trim the case or not. There are many great trimmers out there. I use the Lee case trimmer cutter and lock stud. You can find them for like $5 or so.If you choose that route to trim your cases you’ll also need to get the Lee caliber specific shell holder and length gage. I think they cost like $5 or so... If you look at my 30-06 video, you’ll see what I’m talking about... :)
You pushed the shoulder to far back. Your case head was lower than the case gauge. The mouth of the case is a little longer than the case gauge.. That tells me you just pushed the shoulder a little to much. case might actually be the right length.
Part 3). As a competion shooter I seldomly use the bumping feature of a full length sizing die and concentrate only on the dimensions of overall case length and the sizing of the neck. This guarantees a perfect case/chamber mate when the round is chambered and the possibility of a case head separation extrordinarily unlikely. I anneal the neck of my cases every fifth loading to maintain consistent neck tensioning, and this will be apparent when shooting across a chronograph.
Jiujitsu certainly changes lives! Good to hear that I'm able to help you get started in your reloading adventure. I believe you can purchase the APS strips loaded with primers in them. I also know that there is a tool (RCBS aps strip loader) that you can get to re-load the strips yourself so they can be re-used. I thing the strip loader costs somewhere around $30 or so... Not a stupid question at all! Have a good day... :)
The best gauge is the chamber. If a cartridge fits the gauge, but won't fit the chamber, than it has not been properly resized to the dimensions of the chamber. We see this a lot, and it can really confuse a new reloader. But simply put, you aren't shooting those out of a gauge, so how could the gauge be your transfer, it can't. I own case gauges, but I quit using them when I realized how flawed they are in comparison to the chamber. Been reloading without one for more than 30 yrs. and have yet to experience a single problem with my reloads, handgun and bottle neck rifle cartridges.
Paet 2). If the datum reference from the shoulder to the head is too short the round will "swim" in the chamber and one of two things will occur in this condition. First condition is a no ignition as the firing pin will push the case to the far side of the chamber. The second condition that can occur is the firing pin ignites the round, there is excessive clearance between the case and the chamber, and the head separates from the case leaving the body of the case stuck in the chamber.
Another option that I use to trim my cases is the Lyman Universal lathe style trimmer. You can find it for around $75-80 or so. It works great! If you want to see it in action, Check out my 45 long colt reloading video. Before I got the Lyman, I used the Lee trimmers that I mentioned earlier for years and they work great too! They're much cheaper too... :)
I've been a martial artist all my life, jiujitsu for the last 18 years. How did you know? You training with Kurt? He's a stud! I don't speak of it much. Was it because of my youtube name? The Power Trim Pro is awesome! A friend of mine has one. Sizing and trimming aren't the same. sizing is in reference to changing the brass in diameter and trimming is in reference to changing the brass in length. Priming doesn't really matter, but just make sure they're seated flush or just a bit under... :)
So basically if your case fits precisely between the upper and lower notches then there safe to load correct?? If so then no need to use calibers to measure the cases because they are to caliber specs?? Im only asking cause its faster to use the head space gauge as to oppose to use the calibers for reloading and saving time. Am I thinking correctly here new to this. I just started reloading done hundreds of cases but measuring everyone with calibers is a pain in the butt. Head space gauge is faster for measuring.
Nice vid. Silly question: If the case is dropping in with the head below the level of the gauge, is it possible the shoulder's been pushed too far back? This would also cause case mouth protrusion at the other end (though some of them look way, way too long even for that).
Mine measure headspace and case length on the same one. I'm guesing thats why they sell seperate ones. Mine are mostly Dillon ones... Have a good evening! :)
Risky Business You would screw your resizing die in a little more. That's exactly what the purpose of this gauge is to help you set your resizing die. May take a little trial and error. Once there lock in place.
I started reloading .223 a few months ago but have not purchased a case trimmer yet. I will Full Length Resize and then check case length with a case gauge and then again with calipers. I understand the need for the trimmer but my question is this: As long as the case does not exceed 1.760" for .223, is it safe to load? Not all of my once fired .223 cases get stretched past the 1.760" mark so I assume that everything below that length is safe, correct?
I know it's been 5 months since you asked this. I trim mine down to 1.75. After firing, it may still be with in spec and wont have to trim it again. To trim my cases, I use this. Goes very fast, I can run 5 case by the time someone uses any other type of trimmer! www.midwayusa.com/product/997722/little-crow-gunworks-worlds-finest-trimmer-223-remington
I have a question. I'm rather new at reloading so please allow me to ask this hypothetical question. When we resize our cases with a full-length die, does the die actually force head space to correct position? And, if so, due to the close proximity of .223 Rem and 5.56 NATO head space, will the .223 Rem die actually move the 5.56 NATO head space to .223 Rem specs?
The headspace is the distance between the breech block and the seating point of the cartridge case in the chamber. - "Brassey's essential guide to MILITARY SMALL ARMS", page 58.
The case should not fall below the bottom shelf. It should be above the bottom shelf and below the top shelf. The only way to get a accurate reading is by using a small 6" machinist ruler that is both very straight and very thin. You should see light between the rim of the case and the top shelf but the rim should not be below the bottom shelf.
Your case length may not be off as far as you think. I am not sure what brand gage that is but if it was machined to SAMMI specs, then you are using it wrong. After inserting the shell, you must turn it over and set the gage on a flat surface to get a true case length reading.
you might want to update this video as Kathy is correct,apart from that Rock on.(it would still be OK as you would only be adjusting length by -2 thou)
If it's a semi automatic pistol (which I believe it is) I would reccomend double checking the OAL. It the OAL are good on them (very consistent) I'd increase the amount of taper crimp on the round. I hope this was helpful... Have a good day!
Nope 223, it's a hit or miss with the rounds I'm pushing out. Just got Lyman carbide dies, I'm hopping they work better then the RBCS and lee dies I have had. I just don't understand, it fits like it should in the gage it should fit in the camber
Paert 1). Your shoulder is set to far back and the ammo is essentially useless. The head side of your headspace gauge gives you the minimum and maximum datum reference for the shoulder (SAAMI spec). Your gauge should be used to set up the shoulder bump on your reloading die so that the case head falls somewhere between the high and low side of the gauge when the case is inserted. The rounds you are showing exhibit excessive shoulder bump and are damgerous if chambered and fired. Too short.
You're miss reading what the case gauge is telling you. When you dropped your round into the gauge.. I noticed the head of your brass is too deep down into the gauge, it may seam a little, but according to (SAMMI) Small Arms & Ammunition Manufacturers Institute.. Specification Standard... which the tool (gauge) is made to.. I could go on about how your miss reading, the gauge... But this video was made 11 years ago....
Incorrect. The case should be dropped into the gauge using a tap of the finger. The head of the case should then be observed to fall between the high ridge and the low ridge. Deviation above or below the two ridges shows an out of spec case.. A case which shows excessive shoulder to head length can be saved by bumping the shoulder back, cases sized to short will most always lead to rejection and are dangerous if used.
You're checking the trim length wrong..you don't push the shell with your finger..you lay it on a flat surface. So in reality your brass is probably fine in those loaded cartridges.
You need to remove this video. You know you've done both measurements incorrectly. Now you're showing other people the incorrect way to measure headspace and case length.
Quite correct. While the outer dimensions may be the same the thickness and webbing will not be which can lead to pressure differences. Additionally firearms chambered for 5.56 tend to have much longer throats so its possible 5.56 ammo may jam the bullet into the lands of a 223 chamber. Not good.
@@NickFrom1228 The only difference between 5.56 and .223 is that the throat is longer in the 5.56 chamber. They don't tend to have a longer throat, they always do. Dimensions for both cartridges are the same, yes there may be some brass differences but the gage will work with both cartridges. 5.56 ammo will not jam into .223 lands.
The fact that your determining the brass needs trimming based on the case length gauge, is flawed, IMO. If that brass has had the shoulder bumped back too far, that to could cause what your implying is a trimming issue. Excessive head space is as much a consideration, as is brass in need of trimming in your instructional video. This is especially so and also a red flag, considering how far below the gauge the case head is, and coupled with the case mouth extending beyond the gauge, I would be leaning toward excessive head space.
No dude you're all wrong put the case gauge flat on the table with the brass in it it will be right actually you'll find it a little short that's how you determine the Grass Link if you don't measure it what you should have done was measured before you put the bullet in it but anyway if you put up flat because right now you're pushing it up into the case gauge that is not the way it it works
