This was my first video of watching you weather. It was going well, but from 12:10-13:37 I just didn't see where you were going with the "pitting" technic. Then at 13:37 I saw the results and WOW! Liked. Subscribed. Hit the bell.
Thanks Kent! The next model build (Stump Gondola) I am doing will showcase pitting and weathering textures. I'll be sure to cover it in detail. Thank you for watching and commenting!!!
very good instructions. I especially like the rust spots effect on the sides! On your car ends, also make sure the brake chain is rusty a they are never painted just like the wheels,axles, springs, and draft gear. Looking forward to more clips!
Really well done tutorial! Tip for laying out the masking: cut a piece of the wider Frog tape to the exact dimensions of the area you want to mask and use that as a guide. Apply the thinner yellow masking tape around the perimeter, then peel away the large guide piece and mask off the rest of the model. Wider tape is easier to handle insofar as maintaining a straight edge. Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Definitely some good tips. For acrylic washes I like using some wet water instead of iso because I find the paint mixes in better and I get l less of those little blotches of straight paint even when scraping the bottom.
Few questions. 1) Do you add dull/gloss coat between weathering layers? 2) After finishing weathering hoe do you keep your coating from washing off the powders and other weathering? 3) I have AIM powers. Do you know if they mix with the alcohol like the Brandon powders?
1. With the powders yes I dullcoat between layers. I don't use gloss, the dull coat adds teeth for other weathering mediums to grab to. Gloss is "slippery" and powders and even paint may not grab hold. 2. I hit the whole model with dullcoat after wards. Fixing all the weathering materials to the car. 3. I have never used aim powders...but I think I saw Ralph Renzetti use alcohol with AiM powders.
