Thanks everyone for taking your time to watch my video. Obviously it isn't perfect as this was my first attempt at an in depth repair guide. If there's anything that was unclear just leave a comment and I'll get right back to you.
Thanks a lot! Couldn't ask for a better tutorial. I'm puzzled about the part numbers on the bearings though. Are F4DZ-A and F4DZ-B the same bearing? Are F4DZ-C and F3TZ-A? I could not find any reliable info on this on the web. Some sellers list them as compatible but some part catalogs suggest otherwise which only adds to confusion.
Hi, Great helpful Vid. All worked out for me except a plastic square rod with teeth that is connected from the rear housing reaching through the upper housing to work with the ignition gear. It has a few teeth chewed up and needs to be replaced. It slides in a square channel with a pin connecting it in the rear. For the life of me, I cant see how to get this complete plastic mechanism to escape the channel it is in. Do you have any ideas? Thanks for the post. Helped a lot and got me to where I am now.
Glad the video helped. Those teeth are fairly difficult to get out. You'll see there's a small pin holding the whole mechanism in place. Unfortunately the only way to removed the pin is by drilling a hole through the column as there is no access on the side that it needs to be punched out from. Once the pin is removed the teeth should slide right out
Hi, so my 05 grand marquis is having an issue. The steering shaft seems to have what im guessing is a failed bearing at the very end of the steering column. The u joint coupling just past the column now rubs on the connector on the accel pedal. There is a sea green plastic component that has dropped out of the steering column and is now resting on the coupling which i believe couples to the intermediate shaft? Long story short i cant fogure out if this is some sort of lower vearing or what and i cant seem to locate it on any schematic. I believe it is a plastic retainer clip installed after the recall back in 2013 that has failed.
The only sea green component that I'm familiar with on these columns is the ignition retainer clip. That being said I haven't worked on any Grand Marquis style columns. It is also very rare that the rear bearing fails. I've rebuilt well over 100 of these columns and have never seen a failed rear bearing
After doing some quick research I now see that the 2005 Grand Marquis uses a different style column. They are not rebuildable. The green piece you see is the rear bearing retainer, it is possibly replaceable but I don't know if Ford sells service parts for that style column. Your best bet is to buy a used column as they're fairly cheap on the 2nd hand market and a new one will run you a small fortune
@LansdowneMotorsport you literally can't find the retainer clip on the schematic. Thank you so much for this info and this well made video. I appreciate the time you took to get back to me. I will swing by ford on my way home this afternoon and see if I can get the part. Some good colums on car-part
Okay so I finally put back my column today, my issue was the ignition barrel aluminum housing was completely broken, replaced that and the switch actuator rod. Today I took test drove the van and I couldn't get the shift lever to go to park, now I can't start it because the van is in gear. Any idea what could be the problem ? I also have a tcs off light but I believe it's unrelated probably a wire disconnected.
What do you mean by the upper and lower actuators? If you're referring to the ignition actuator it is not possible to remove without drilling on an auto trans column. It's recommended to just buy a used steering column jacket if this has failed
Please pardon me but I reviewed your video and evidently missed you talking about the actuator rod and how to line it up with ignition gear which is very important and I’m no longer that disappointed. I’ve got a 2003 Ford Ranger and I’ve done all the repairs and maintenance on it. I’ve never had to work on the steering wheel until now. Watching so many videos and chats, I’m amazed how so many parts to the steering wheel are called by so many different names. However, you can change out both actuators the upper (the one with the pin that breaks with no warning) and the lower that has a spring and a semicircle for the actuator pin to connect with. Under the shift tube, there is a part called the shift pawl that prevents the lower actuator from sliding out. The shift pawl is held in place with a small pin in a difficult spot to drive the pin out. I used a screw driver to force the pin flush with the casting then a nail cut to size to further push it out with a flat head screwdriver. With the pin out, the shift pawl comes out and the lower actuator will slide out of the tube.
@@davidholmes7215 There is no lock on the ignition switch. The Ranger’s ignition switch is not what your key goes into. That is called the lock cylinder. The ignition switch on my 2003 ford ranger is on the steering column and it has a post pin that goes into the actuator. Remember, always disconnect the battery before starting any work on the ignition switch to prevent any electrical accidents. Although I’ve never done this, you should be able to turn the key switch on and if upper and lower actuators are good, you should be able to see the actuator and pin hole move.
I'm experiencing the same problem. The key turns the van ON but not OFF. I am able to turn the ignition key counterclockwise and remove it but the van remains ON. I replaced the key cylinder switch but still the same problem. Now I removed the ignition switch that mounts on to the column. I am wondering if the plastic strip that connects the cylinder key switch to the ignition switch is broken although it looks OK from what I can see, sort of. For the time being I am turning the van ON and OFF at the ignition switch manually. I left it hanging under the column.
@@RC-qf1etThat's my exact situation. I haven't torn into mine yet. The linkage is 2 pieces. I have the one that has the rack gear. Wondering if I need to do the other part. Shits dumb they would be plastic.
Sorry I missed your reply to my first question. We had a steering column replaced in a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis, when we got our car back after driving ~ 3 miles the a/c stopped blowing cold air and the turn signals stopped working, and the off position o the key in the ignition is further back/down, it also seems like the gear shift is too high and the turn signal arm too low, could air and fuse/turn signal be related to having the steering column replaced? And is it possible for the steering column to be inserted like a little too counter clockwise?
We’ve had our 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis in the shop for 5 weeks for a bad ignition cylinder turned bad steering column, and it is still not fixed. Should most general mechanics know how to fix this? They actually got a used part from a salvage yard, they say that it works on the bench but then won’t in the car. BTW it has cruise control if that makes a difference. I’m wondering now if they shouldn’t just have it rebuilt or get a rebuilt one at this point. Any thoughts?
Most shops do not rebuild these steering columns. Generally work on them is done by steering column specialists. If you send your bad column to my shop we can rebuild it. We charge $280 to fully rebuild with new OEM parts. You would have to cover shipping to us and we cover the shipping back to you. If this is something you're interested in feel free to give us a call tomorrow (484) 462-3031
You will need to drill a hole through the column to access the back side of the pin that holds in the rod. It is the only way besides buying a new column housing with the rod installed
Well darn, the part I'm having trouble with is the plastic rod that connects the ignition cylinder and the ignition switch, and you didn't even touch it :(
In order to remove it you need to drill a hole in the steering column to access the pin that holds it in place. I find it easier to just replace the whole body of the column with a used one which normally run about $50
@@LansdowneMotorsport I figured it out, one of the shift rod bushings had slid down in the way of the mechanism that traps the key when you leave the vehicle in gear and shut it off, so I moved it back and flipped it over in hopes it doesn't move again
@@PrincePolaris I would recommend getting new shifter bushings, they're very cheap. If that doesn't work out you may want to look into the rod assembly, that could also be causing the issue
The plastic arms that the key turns there's a bottom and a top that turn with the key i like your video very helpful just trying to. See how to hook the top to bottom/ right to left / on - off
Hi there Max! I was wondering if ya had any idea of some fixes on my 1995 ford f250 steering column. Its a manual transmission transmission so no shift tube but everything else seems to be the same on my model. I did half this job inside the vehichle. Took it apart down to the tilt mechanism. And replaced the large bearing in the back of the steering wheel and the small one in front. Put it all back together and the steering wheel is no longer wobbling around like it was but now the wheel doesnt return to centern while drivng. Turning the wheel is easy enough but it wont return to center like it used to. Any ideas to what i did wrong ? The steering wheel will turn all the way left and right without making any noise, dooesnt feel like its binding up but it doesnt feel right either.
Hey max, my steering wheel is loose and I can pull it towards me. I am driving a 2018 ford raptor and haven’t been able to find anything online. Would this process work on my model?
Hey Joey, unfortunately that is a very different steering column. The newer model columns are not rebuildable. The bearings are extremely difficult if not impossible to remove and ford does not sell service parts for them. I would recommend purchasing a brand new or pre owned steering column. If you need help locating one just let me know if it's manual or power tilt and I'll find the cheapest in the country.
You didn't show the ignition switch rod. Mine lost the little pin and I had to take apart the unit to get to it. What side does the pawl on top of the lower rod face thank you for any help
Unfortunately I've never removed the ignition switch rod. It's extremely difficult to remove the pin that holds it in on column shift models. The side that needs to be hit through does not have enough room to get any sort of punch in there. Generally I just replace the entire column jacket if the ignition switch rod has failed
(484) 462-3031 feel free to give me a call at my business number anytime from 8-5 est. I can explain things in more depth over the phone rather than typing out an essay. Ask for Max
@@LansdowneMotorsport I just had the issue, my pin was not broken but the teeth on the rods were bad because my ignition barrel housing was broken and loose. At and 45 degree angle I drilled a little hole to fit the smallest punch I have and I got it out.
Unfortunately I haven't done one, there should be some on youtube though. It's not too difficult. Hardest thing is removing the steering shaft from the intermediate shaft if it's rusted over. Otherwise just be real careful removing the shift cable from the bracket. The column is held in by 4 nuts under the dash. Be ready to lay upside down on your floor and have a good flash light handy. If you need any help during the process just leave another comment and I can give you some help.
When you remove the clockspring make sure you're wheels are straight forward and once it's off put a zip tie around it to ensure it stays in the center position
@@nicolalapenna7948 Posso spedire in italia. Il prezzo totale sarà di $ 530 US compresa la spedizione. Il tempo di attesa è di 1 settimana per l'origine e la creazione della colonna.
www.ebay.com/itm/374554378710?epid=1311159613&hash=item57352e41d6:g:T-8AAOSwuYZkChMk&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwH9vEpnVlbE%2BG9JoHxFamA4BUkBjiDQro34ahdjAYGmzdneoHZv3YoTNcM2O3NAl8HOUePXeNkKkAN%2BGA1UwUABzB9PuunssMEIJPkYoPNluIkriiGI2nREqk4DIMipGAMNsI17z8W1trjvLJX4AhaE41WLHRR06DWCdzFq3JLz4ur0KpZop%2FvioYF8TNaSt0x9chBK04WATH3wd3c5TyIacqoPGOUuULLpbemiD2XYLvLelVd1A1bsRoQ5VKmSeNQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5CC49HyYQ Here is a link to the cheapest bare column I could find on eBay based on part number
try pick a part that's where I got mine was for my 1999 f250 I got it out of 2002 explorer I think the years that will fit is from 1999 to 2004 it was about $70.00 with my veteran discount I think $10.00 more without the discount
3/4" PVC should be perfect for the job. If you need any help with setting the ignition in the proper position feel free to leave a comment. It's a little tricky and the video got jumbled around during that portion.
