I Put a Kubota D1105T Together With Two Bent Connecting Rods. Or Did I? Rebuilding a Kubota engine for a home built off grid generator. #Kubota #D1105T #DieselGenerator #Genset #Offgrid #diygenerator
I had a 3 cylinder Volvo diesel in my last boat. Liked everything about that motor except for the ECM. They bolted it directly to the engine and it would get hot and inevitably fail.
I am having a really hard time finding an SAE bell housing that bolts to it. Lots of options for other engines but nothing I can find for an 05 series in either new or used. its not a deal breaker but makes it a bit more complicated.
Hey there. I have a marinized D1105 that I'm putting back together and I stumbled across this video...great stuff, really learned a lot. I have one question. Right at 27:55 -- what is that screw/spring part with the adjuster (which in your video is covered with a crimped fitting) on the outside of the timing gear cover? When I installed the timing gear cover, I just slapped it on but I had to swap that screw/spring over from another timing gear cover so I'm hoping it's adjusted properly. But I still don't know what it's for...I imagine something in the injection pump? But nothing connects to it...? Any insight much appreciated.
Yes I am in the middle of tearing my shop apart and re organizing it and getting everything outside ready to be buried in snow for 6 months. As soon as I get that done there will be a part 2 of reassembly then a part 3 where I actually make it a generator. Thank you for watching and thank you for the interest!
I have a 1.7 litre Kubota that I’m having timing issues. (Previously rebuilt and they couldn’t get it running) when the idler gear marks line up with all other gears should piston 1 be TDC? Because when mine are all lined up it’s at BDC
What about the stud in the timing cover with the idle spring. I pulled the cap off to get the cover off and the stud came out. How did you adjust your on reassembly
Hello, I have a two-cylinder Kubota, it works for a small car truck, from Italy called Casalini Kerry It had a Mitsubishi engine from the company, but I couldn't find one like that, so I made a conversion and installed this engine, unfortunately I have a problem that I would like to describe to you The engine starts in the morning with a lot of effort, I have installed a second battery, but the engine has no speed when starting, I have to charge the batteries in the evening so that I have enough power in the morning, then I have to start my second car and turn it on I put a stone on the pedal so that I have more revolutions, after a long start it starts, sometimes it doesn't because my batteries are empty, it's torture Do you have any idea what I can do, but I can't fit a 100 Ah battery and I don't have room for it, one is 62 Ah, the other is under the bed and is 45 Ah I thank you in advance for your help
Awsome video! May i ask how can one tell for sure if there sleeves are removeable/replaceable? Could use the help. Tore the top off and about to pull it all apart and send off to be bored if i cant remove sleeves. Also the one bore kit i can find is .050 that sounds like alot to me and even to much. I have a horizontal ring that catches my finger nail towards the top of the cyclinder i need to have removed. Any help would be appreciated.
If they are removable its typically pretty obvious. I see a lot of aftermarket sleeves for sale for engines that do not have removable sleeves. The overbore kit you are looking at is probably .5mm which is roughly .020" so "20 over" Hope that helps.
I have a Kubota D1105 off a grasshopper. Do all these engines have factory sleeve? Mine needs rebuilt. Not sure if I can just try removing them or take it and have it bored out.
@@kedfarmrepairs They can be rebuilt Kubota and Quality parts offers an over sized Piston 20 thousands over or .50 mm. he left a shit ton of information in this video. Piston has arrows on it buy the wrist pin and numbers on the rods always go to the injection pump side of the engine. The engine can also be sleaved
I have the same engine, it’s actually a sailboat motor…marinized version. It OVEREVED after changing kill solenoid. Now oil alarm sounds. Still runs good, oil pressure is normal, 45~60. Do you know why the oil alarm would sound now? Rings maybe?… D’MIT!
Is the alarm that is sounding an oil pressure alarm? If so I guess I would check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge and see if it has good oil pressure that will tell you if its a mechanical or electrical issue.
Unfortunately, I had a hiccup. Forgot to remove lifters before turning the d902 over. 4 out of the 6 fell out to the ground. It is a relatively low hour motor, right around 300 hours. Can I get away with not replacing them?
Honestly what I would do is send them out and get them resurfaced. I do all my own here but what I would do if I was you is send them to Daniel Powell at Powell Machine he has a dedicated setup and does a LOT of them. You can look up @powellmachineinc3179 here on youtube and see a lot of what he does.
Yes from my experience they are very good engines. I have had a few apart and they all look like brand new inside. Only real reason I took any of them apart was from the machines being tipped over, filling the cylinders with oil and then having them cranked over bending connecting rods. They run these in quite a few different machines. This one is out of a walk behind skid steer. They also put them in their UTV's without the turbocharger and I have to assume that there's got to be a model or two of tractor that uses this engine as well.
@@kedfarmrepairs Well I'd Love to see it! You do excellent work. I was watching your video because I have to swap out a gear case on a kubota engine to make it fit my application. (The Oil filter sits to far down on the engine to allow it to go into the frame). Anyway, I have all my parts now, I have all the old gasket material scraped off and prepped. Getting ready to complete it today. May I ask you for a tip tho? There are 3 oil ports on this engine, and they only sent me 1 O-ring. To me they look like regular o-rings but I guess they could be a special material. Do you know if I could replace the o-ring around the oil ports with a common high heat o-ring of the same size? Thanks!
I have this engine in my rtv 1140 and im having an issue with no power. I made the mistake of trying to turn up the fuel on it by adjusting the fuel screw at the front of the motor, it ran fine after adjusting (no difference in smoke at all) parked it then next day gradual loss of power until it bearly creeps now. I tried moving screw back to where I think it was and can manually move throttle and it revs up but with delay. But still no power under load. Have good fuel and everything, kubota wanted to pull engine but I believe it’s just something with that fuel screw or gov. Any tips?
I am honestly not real familiar with the inner workings on these particular injection pumps.. Rotary style roosa master or stanadyne pumps are a different deal I've been in those many times but tgese plunger style pumps are something I have bever had apart. Perhaps you could call a diesel injection rebuild shop if you have one local? Sorry I am not much help on this one. If I had a spare to take apart I would happily do some exploratory surgery and make a video documenting it
Not sure if you're still having this problem, since your post is 6 months old, but check the soot screen in the rear exhaust/muffler. Stoney Ridge Farmer has an episode where his RTV 1140 was losing power, because the soot plugged up the exhaust screen and blocked flow. I bet turning up the fuel added some extra soot and clogged it up.
I'm working on one of these out of a refer the fuel pump was all seized up got it freed up and now I can't get it to run. How much compression should it have. How do you time it and is it a dry sleeved engine or no sleeves. Did u hone the cylinders?
The timing is done with the timing gears on the camshaft that runs the injection pump plungers. There is a section in the video where I go over this. I dont have an exact compression number but I would assume that it should easily be over 200 and maybe even over 300. What I do when I compression test something is compare all of the cylinders to each other. If they are within 10% of each other and in the ballpark of where I think they should be I look elsewhere. When you see wild variations between cylinders is when you know you have some issues somewhere. I did very lightly run a ball hone in the cylinders to break any glaze there may have been and give the oil a nice fresh place to sit and lubricate everything. Going off of memory here I don't think it is a sleeved engine. I'm not close to it at the moment to look either but I'm pretty sure it is not a sleeved deal if my memory is correct.
Yes I found standard rings and they weren't expensive. These ones I bought off of eBay the ones I have used on customers engines came directly from Kubota. It has been a few years but the ones from Kubota were not expensive enough that I remember what they cost and I usually remember if they are crazy. Thanks for the interest and Thank you very much for watching!!
The engine I just built .when I got it all back . The engine had a cracked block I put oil in then was pooring the water in an the oil level came up so I never got to crank it now I search for a block.
There are a few different one D1105s and they range from 21 or so horsepower to 31 or 32 horsepower. Horsepower has a direct conversion to KW the lower HP Naturally aspirated ones(21HP) are 18+- KW, the turbocharged ones like the one I have are 23+- KW I figured that 20KW was more than enough power for what I will be using it for so that is what I am going to shoot for when I source and purchase the generator head. You could put a 30KW head on an engine that puts out 20KW of horsepower it just wouldn't be able to be used to its full capacity as it would drag the engine down from lack of horsepower if you tried to use it to its full power capacity. If your engine is naturally aspirated I would be looking for something in the 15-16KW range.
@@kedfarmrepairs Thank you so much bro for your info, that will help me a lot. It's a kubota D1105-E3B (3000 rpm), 24.8 HP, and it's naturally aspired. I think I will go for a 16KW, it's enough power for me.
I think they were only like 60 each used off of ebay but I didn't end up using them. I really need to finish editing that video and get it uploaded it has only been done for about 2 months now..
Hello Folks; I'm rebuilding a Kubota D-902 out of a RTV-900. After market parts suppliers offer cylinder liners for this engine . But Kubota offers no liners and the aftermarket liners I have purchased will not fit my engine. So whats the story here do some D-902 have changeable liners while others do not? Or must I machine my block to install sleeves?
I assume the liners you are referring to are the liners that you can get on Amazon, eBay, etc. that are just straight walled with no step or anything? those are meant to be put in a cylinder by a machine shop. Your block needs a pretty extensive overbore then the sleeves are press fit into the block by one of a few different methods and then bored and honed to final size.
I have this motor or a D1105-E to be specific is that the same engine? Do you have any info on where to get rebuild kit etc. I’m mechanically inclined farmer just never rebuilt an engine. This engine is on a donkey forklift I use. What are some tools I need to have to do this job? Any help would greatly be appreciated. I have general hand tools just zero measurement stuff etc.
The D1105E looks to be the same engine just minus the turbocharger and I assume the pump is calibrated a bit differently. You will need basic hand tools and depending upon how thorough of a job you intend to do and what is all wrong with it you will possibly need a dial bore gage and a micrometer or two. Also depending upon condition you will need to hone the cylinders with a ball hone if its in very good condition like mine was or a much more elaborate and expensive fixed hone and possibly boring bar. I would be happy to give any assistance that you may need. Feel free to ask any questions you may have and you can also email me.. My email is in the about me tab on the main page.
For the gaskets I have bought from my local Kubota dealer for some but these ones actually came from eBay. For things like connecting rods and pistons I usually get them from eBay but I wont buy Chinese replacements just used OE for rods and OE new for pistons.
Thank you for doing this for us to learn from! I was wondering if the valve train on the turbo version you have would be the same as the non turbo version I have? I recently added a turbo to my d1105 and noticed the valve adjustments are different for the turbo vs non. I wonder if this is just because of the boost the turbo adds or is it because the valve train parts are actually different? I guess I could just go to my dealer and ask them to look up the parts numbers…thanks
I believe the parts are likely the same but the added heat from the turbo probably makes the turbo model need more clearance. I assume you N/A engine uses less clearance?
So i have the same motor in my kubota b2400 hst i believe. I need to just do a ring job and replace the head gasket. Do i need to tear the whole motor apart like you did just to change rings? Im watching the video and you put the motor mostly toegther all to still pull a piston out again. So i assume i dont need to tear all this apart to just do that?? Im having white smoke blow by pretty bad coming out of the oil cap.
You can do rings with the head and oil pan off. If the cylinders are overly worn you will need to take it apart further to address that issue but just rings aren't too bad of a job. Why does it need rings?
@@kedfarmrepairs well i dont know much of the history of the tractor as it came with purchase of house. However it shows only 900 hours on dash. Im getting pretty significant blow by/hewvy white smoke. I still feel like i have pretty good power from the motor jist heavy white smoke mostly at idle but still comes throught giving it more throttle.
A likely cause would be that the injection pump is leaking fuel out of the plungers. another cause could be the mechanical fuel "lift" pump leaking internally
