Thanks! If you would actually like to buy me a beer, you can click the link at the top of my description if you'd like to toss any donation my way. It would be greatly appreciated. Glad I could help you out and I hope your project goes as planned. If you ever get stuck, I usually reply to comments regarding questions during projects so don't hesitate to ask. Good luck and ride safe! Cheers!
Hey! I'm glad I could help! Thanks a lot for letting me know if this video was helpful to you. Subscribe if you haven't already. My channel is all about getting people to save money by keeping their bikes away from the "stealership" as much as possible. I hope to hear from you in my other videos. Ride safe! Cheers!
dt_ thanks. Yea it is a very easy job. What messes people up sometimes is bleeding the brakes but as long as you know what you are doing there, the rebuild is the easy part. I hope this helps your rebuild if you do one soon. Thanks for your comment. It is greatly appreciated.
You too huh? Did your front brake feel like if should after the rebuild? Read in the forums that some people have reoccurring problems with the 05 06 636 MC. Was considering upgrading to a newer models MC but figured if try to rebuild if first and sore how that went.
Thanks! I'm glad it worked out for you. I've had a few people tell me it is their go-to video for whenever a rebuild is needed. Glad to be so helpful in some way.
I followed your example and went on to rebuild my radial nissin master cylinder,as it had started feeling too spongy. Step by step as you described it, only I used lithium grease in the end for the pivot pin. Thank you for making it easier for me! Keep up your good work and always ride safe friend.
My piston is jammed inside the master cylinder (giggity) but now I know why I wasn't getting any pressure from the handle it was just flopping back and forth like a limp.... you get the point.
great tutorial, I've this type of cylinder. Just wonder is there a direction of seating for the circular clip. Many are saying there is a flat side which shall be outwards. However in mine outside was the rounded when I opened. I need to re assemble it and feeling lost what way shall I mount it back or if direction even matters at all.
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. In many applications, the orientation is unimportant. However; there is a correct way if you want to be specific about it. In this case, I'd say it doesn't matter. But c-clips are supposed to be oriented with the flat side touching the part it intends to retain to ensure a secure fit. So smooth-side out would be appropriate in this case although its orientation is not a critical component of the assembly process. I hope this helps and thank you for watching. Ride safe and Subscribe if you haven't already! Cheers!
No problem. Thanks for letting me know. Glad i could help. Hopefully some of my other videos would also be of use to you or your friends. Good luck out there.
Have you considered trying to gravity bleed your system? Also, sometimes you need to prime the master cylinder after rebuilding it by removing the brake line at the master cylinder, cover the hole where the brake line was with your thumb, then squeeze the brake lever a few times. You should eventually feel some air pressure behind your thumb. Allow the air pressure to escape but try to not let much air back in when you release the lever. Do this until you primarily have fluid trying to squeeze past your thumb, then quickly reinstall the brake line and proceed with a gravity bleed. After the gravity bleed is done, continue to bleed as normal. I hope this helps!
WHAT FRONT LEVERS DO YOU HAVE I BROKE MY LEVER AND YOU ARE THE ONLY PERSON I HAVE FOUND THAT HAVE WHAT LOOKS LIKE THE SAME BRAKE LEVER AND I CANNOT FIND A REPLACEMENT
Make syre that you try covering the master cylinder with your finger (where the banjo bolt is supposed to attach) then pull the lever to pressurize the system. Then after the air slips past your finger, put the brake line back then gravity bleed for a few mins before trying to bleed conventionally again. Let me know how it goes!
I replaced the seals like in this video on my cbr 954rr. My problem is once everything is put back together and I fill the resivouir with fluid, I cant get fluid to fill the brake lines or get pressure to build on the brake lever. Tried bleeding them forever, also tried a vacuum line on the caliper's and couldnt get any fluid down the brake lines. At a loss for how to "pressurise" the brakes and get them working again.
Usually when this happens, you need to purge out the air in your master cylinder. You can do this by removing the brake lines attached to your master cylinder, remove reservoir cap and bladder, place your thumb over the hole that your brake lines were attached to, then pump your brake lever. You should feel air pressure push your thumb off. Allow the air to pass your thumb but keep the hole sealed when you release the brake lever. Do this as many times as you need until fluid comes out then quickly reinstall your brake lines. Alternatively, you could do a reverse brake bleed where you fill a syringe with brake fluid and force the fluid through your calipers and up your brake lines to the reservoir. I hope this helps you! Good luck!
Tristian Carlo i ordered it through ridenow powersports. Any dealer for your bike should be able to order it. But if that is too much of a hassle where you live, www.bikebandit.com is another good spot to order parts from. Good luck with your project.
I was trying to bleed my front brake to put new fluid in. I was able to drain out the old fluid by gravity through the bottom bleed valve, but after that, i was unable to push new fluid through. What might be the problem?
Sounds like you may need to purge your masyer cylinder. Usually you may need to remove the brake cables from the master cylinder and cover up the hole with your thumb while depressing the brake lever. You will feel air pressure push your thumb off and you want to let some air out but not back in. Repeat this until you have mainly fluid behind your thumb then quickly put the brake lines back on the master cylinder. This will purge air from the master cylinder and allow the plunger to push fluid through the system. Hopefully this helps! Good luck with your project!
Also, if you are just bleeding the brakes and you aren't replacing anything in your brake system, you never want to let the reservoir run dry when bleeding or gravity bleeding or you may run into this problem.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss thanks for the. advice. It's a salvage bike and i wanted to clear out all the old fluid to be replace with new. I pump and close for 5 mins but I still get nothing. I'll try the MC bleed.
@@bex622 Awesome! Project bikes are always fun and rewarding. Definitely try the MC bleed. It should help you or at least remove a variable from the issue.
I'm working on my cruiser as we speak. I'm shooting my next video. I think I finally found the problem with my bike. Wasn't what I thought it was. But I'll see in a few minutes if what I found is the culprit.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I saw people using like scredrivers to get them on etc. Im waiting for mine to arrive, hope I won't have much problems to get it done and after that to bleed the system, especially cuz I don't have bleed niple on master cylinder. Also, I wanted to remove the reservoir but now I see that I can done it without it so I don't have to unbolt the brake line from the reservoir.
They do in most models, maybe he bought a non genuine kit. I have a rebuild kit here genuine Yamaha 2005 r1 and it’s all already assembled rubbers on the piston.
