How to Rebuild a Toyota W58 5 Speed Transmission - Part 2 

Thanks so much for taking the time to write this. The warped rings in the kit will exhibit the same problem you were having. As the rings start to seat in they will grab the gear and synchronize better.

Thank you

*Let me know if you are EVER in Oregon. Drinks on me.

Thanks. Ross always said there are no mistakes, only happy accidents.

@@GearBoxVideo Classic Ross, well said. The trans seems to working quite nicely after about a 100 miles.. Only one issue that rears its head now and then. upshifting from 3rd to 4th: Doesn't seem like the shift ring wants to fully engage over the gear. like there is not enough throw in the fork. when i let the clutch out the gear spins and i get a grind. Hard to say if it's just the cheapo Sta-lube GL4 I am using for break in or something else. Seems like i has something to do with the gear spining at the 1:1 ratio? every other gear engagement feels great. Up and down shifting. Any thoughts?

Yes Mr. Paul.....you are a TRANSMISSION GENIUS.......Waaawwwwww.......

Thank you

Glad I could help. Thank you very much!

Il nya pas la chaine francais pour mieux comprendre

thank you for that tip

Thank you

Thanks for taking the time to give me feedback. Much appreciated

Thank you

Thanks for watching!

Go for it!

Any idea what the w58 3rd gear spline count is? I cant find a replacement 3rd gear at all. The ax5 is apart of the w family. Any chance you know if the 3rd gear from that fits? I know the ratio is off

David is very knowledgeable and a great guy

Appreciate it

Very similar and I don't think the press fits are as severe

Thanks for the reply. Cause i know you have to be a busy guy. Usually the guys with knowledge are. Well as of yesterday,my transmission started making a rattling sound. It does it in neutral, and also in 1st 2nd 3rd 5th. I definitely sounds like a bearing. It doesn't do it in 4th. I read that if it doesn't do it in 4th than its probably the counter shaft bearings, cause 4 th gear is the 1:1 and the counter shaft doesn't turn. On this r150f tranny. Luckily, my buddy has a extra tranny that i am fixing to swap out. I work 90 miles from where i live and didn't want to take the chance on making it worse or getting stuck on the side of the road so i called in and took off, and i am fixing to swap it out. But i am going to have to rebuild mine and give his back or trade him or whatever. Times are tuff and i will have to rebuild the tranny myself. I have another friend that has presses and bearing pullers and everything i think ill need. Is there any specific tools that you think i might need? Also what rebuild kit would you use ? Hopefully its just bearings and seals and thats all ill need cause after looking on the internet i can get a bearing and seal kit for around 200 . From Cobra transmissions. Ive never done this and so im not sure on who to order from. Where do you usually get your parts from? I know i need to use oem bearings and parts from what everyone says,so thats what i looked for. And it will be a couple of weeks before i can order anything,and i want to disassemble it before i start ordering anything. So just tell ur thoughts on who you get ur parts from or reliable people to order from, and any advice you might have for a first timer on rebuilding the r150f. Thank you for your time.

I don't have a core or parts

Watch the video and look at the gear. Look at its relationship to the lower gear. Think it thru. You cannot do that

I second your request. I just need to replace the input shaft on my W59. I watched the video carefully and think there is still a lot of disassembly. Looks like both the main and countershaft need to move forward enough to spread them apart. But there's a lot of parts keeping that from happing easily.

Taking another look I see the input shaft and the 4th speed gear are one and what is keeping them from being removed is the 4th gear and bearing on the countershaft. So, if I can use a puller behind the 4th counter gear to pull the gear and bearing off, then the input shaft will simply slip off. Then I need to figure out how to press the counter gear and bearing back on the countershaft. More to come.

The gears have been an issue. The engagement teeth get distorted over time.

@@GearBoxVideo Thanks for your prompt response! I was suspecting something like that. Well, your video series has given me the confidence to know I can tear it down and put it back together. Now I just need the parts. I've found a few sources for rebuild kits, but I haven't been able to scare up the actual gears. I want to be prepared for worst case before I start. Do you have any ideas of where I might source fifth gear for a W50? And thanks again!

There are a few people selling 5th sets on Ebay. They are all from the same manufacturer

@@GearBoxVideo I'm finding gear sets for W55, W56, W58, W59 ... Not seeing anything for W50. Any chance they're interchangeable with the W50 gear set?

I have to rebuild my w59 & 1st gear is ruined. Do you know if the 1st gear is replaceable on the input shaft or is it part of the shaft itself. Same question regarding the 1st gear on the counter shaft.

They are all 1 piece

I use Permatez 51813

Never press directly on the pilot section. always use a sleeve. You have to monitor the press, especially if it is electric. I try to get parts direct from Toyota or Lexus. The kits are garbage.

Thanks!

You can't bench test the gear train because the case maintains the center to center clearance. So your comment makes zero sense.

We don't allow video links here and again... the guy in the video is accomplishing nothing. Spacing and shift rail alignment are constrained by the cases. Ends of the rails are held by the cases, shafts are held by the cases. So again the guy is accomplishing nothing other than making sure he has everything back in the proper place which if you know what your are doing this is not needed. I've done over 100 of these type of builds in 40 years of business. Never an issue. Also you don't have to check that the sliders and hubs shift when it's all assembled. That should be done before you assemble the gear train. Shifting the assemblies with no rails in place as in the video can also cause the assembly to over shift and cause the struts to pop out. Especially on the 3-4 since the input is not held in place. So again this is meaningless and a poor way of checking your work and can also cause issues and a reason why I don't do this.

@@GearBoxVideo Makes sense Thank you 👍

Please read my pinned comment

Sounds like something wrong with the main shift rail. Since it pulls all the gears mentioned in the same direction.

Thank you

Clean up the bore with a hone and lube it

Give me one to build please

Well isn't that just perfect? I happen to speak Russian! haha Message me a link please?

Think it thru. How are you going to adjust clearances? What happens with these specs in books is that if you have a failure you need to change parts. In the event for example something welded to a shaft or a gear was obviously worn to the eye. You may want to check a clearance if you think a thrust flange may be worn or still usable.The transmission in the video was in great shape. I guess I know how end play should be and if a surface appeared heated or galled up you may want to check for excessive endplay and change the part out. Some transmissions have different size snap rings. However it's hard to get these parts now. So for the most part you can't adjust clearances but just check them. So again you really don't need to check clearances in a transmission that you just want to freshen up but if you are changing some major parts you may want to check your endplay. But again finding shims and snap rings is not easy for these. Thanks for watching.

Thank you very much for the quick response. It looks like I'm going to be needing 5th and reverse gear sets for my w56 tranny where would you recommend that I go to look for hard parts and rebuild kit.

I see them on eBay but again the kits are sketchy. Try a dealership first

Sounds good, thanks again. Keep up the amazing videos and I will keep on watching.

I do not

Yes if you send me one and have about 3 months

@@GearBoxVideo let me check shipping cost and if it is possible i will do

Leave them as they are

Thank you! Shall get you some beverages soon.

Another question: The remote shifter housing has a shaft that slides between two bushings, and a seal at one end. There is a tiny amount of play in the bushings, which I gather is normal/necessary since it is the same on the 3 I have. Greasing the bushings/seal: Should I use a Moly grease (or assembly grease) under the assumption that I want an oil-compatible grease---the shifter does get splashed with a lot of oil from the trans---or go with something like PM600 "Military Grease" Liquid-o-Ring which seems to be exceptional at many things, such as staying in place and not mixing with oil.

Don't use a moly grease just like a wheel bearing grease

@@GearBoxVideo Yesterday I got most of the gear cluster assembled on the Center Plate, then found that my rebuild kit was missing the rear Counter Shaft bearing (the last part to be installed before shifting hardware): The OEM counter shaft front and center bearings are big roller bearings (025-52NX), whereas the kit came with deep-groove ball bearings for both. The original counter shaft bearings all feel good. While I wait to hear back from the company I bought the kit from, would you lean towards new deep-groove bearings, or reusing 3 bearings that were in the trans? My motive for rebuilding is that the trans in my truck leaks and whines (in all but 4th). I have no idea what the trans I'm working on sounded like, but I am obviously biased towards thinking that the bearings need replaced.

Watch the video.i do show yoy

@@GearBoxVideo ya I found it, it was in the 3/4 rail. Thank you. My transmission is back in and rebuilt thanks to you. Moment of truth after some fluids in a minute.

cold solvent and blasted

Send me one.

It could be a awhile since I’m over seas. I’m in the military as of right now. It would be out of my 04 GTO with about 130k on it. It’s experiencing grinds and pop outs in reverse with a some bearing whine. But as you have mentioned before some of the problems are more likely to do with the clutch.

I appreciate this so much. Thank you so much for supporting this channel. Thank you again!

You really need a press .

A bushing

I wouldn't. I look for old stock

Also. There is a little oil pipe, that fits up in that case ,and it kinda lines up with the counter shaft. Its a little small plastic funnel looking thing. I really don't see what good it does,and mine broke all to pieces so i just left it out. Will that hurt anything? Like i say, my newly rebuilt transmission (r150f) isnt disengaging reverse completely.

I honestly don't know what you could have done other than make sure the interlocks are properly installed. All this should be tested out of the car on the bench with no oil in it.

@@GearBoxVideo Yeah i ask if he tested it, and he said no because he had lost that interlock spring that goes in through the top. So i had to get one, and when i put it in, it wouldn't shift in any forward gear , thats when i noticed that he had that 3rd rod down,clicked 180° out and the cut in that shaft was pointed towards the inside gears. So i just took out the springs and puched out that roll pin and turned the rod ,to where it was supposed to be. He said he had put all the detents in and the balls and springs in from the side,so i didn't take any of them out when i turned the shaft. But after i got it turned and all the springs back in. I shifted it into 1st and 2nd and 3rd and 4th and fifth. I didn't look around and see if reverse came out. I just knew that when it wouldn't shift and that 3rd rod down was clocked wrong that all those detents and that 2nd one down with the pin in it , was jammed up. So after turning that rod then all of them would shift. And it did shift in and out of fifth and reverse is on the same rod and it shifts into reverse fine, it just doesn't come out of reverse like it should. I plan on driving it for a week, then tearing back into it next weekend. Cause its on my daily driver. But you think it might be in those detents or maybe something on that bottom rod that isnt letting it travel far enough? Also, thank you for replying,cause it has me freaking out.

Hard to say. I'm working on another video that deals with rails and interlocks. So who knows what this person did.

@@GearBoxVideo Ok. Thanks for replying to me. Ive been studying the sch. drawing on my transmission for the reverse and the shifting rods. I believe if any of the interlocks were still out of place, it would have a shifting problem. And it doesn't, it goes into every gear. Ive been looking at the reverse linkage and the rod for reverse and it seems like that linkage isn't traveling far enough back on the rod ,inturn not letting that reverse fork to push the reverse gear out far enough. Like if there could be a washer or something that sits behind that reverse linkage,where it bolts to that plate? I didn't know if you know of anything that would set that reverse linkage out futher. Or where it pivots off of that piece below it ,to make that arm move out and disengage reverse? All the drawings that i look at, have all the parts, but dont show any mounting hardware,like screws and bolts and washers or spacers. So i was hoping you would say, yeah theres a spacer that fits behind that reverse linkage or that theres an adjustment on that reverse fork where i could move it out on the rod a hair more. Or something like that. Im just trying to juggle your memory a little and get you thinking,cause i know you deal with a hundred different trannys. And the fact that you take time to answer someone when i know ur busy as hell, is good thing. And i appreciate it. Cause i know what its like trying to trouble shoot something without seeing it. So thank you for your time. If you happen to think if any possible causes that would cause that reverse arm , not to move out as far, please let me know. Also, it confuses me why, i can go from reverse to 2nd, and it will come out of reverse, but it wont come out of reverse, when i go to fifth? I thought that going to fifth from reverse would cause it to giggle out better than going to second, cause fifth and reverse is on the same rod. But thats not the case. Somehow going to 2nd, gets it out of reverse. Im going to take it out next weekend and tear into it ,and so im trying to have ideas to look for. Cause since this is my only ride, i have to get it done and back in before Monday morning. And plus i drive to work over 80 miles one way. Just let me know any ideas that might pop in ur head,so i can have an idea of what to look for when i take it out next weekend. I know ur a busy guy and i sure appreciate you trying to help. Its not that im a cheap person that doesn't want to pay someone to work on it, i just can't afford it, so thanks again!!!!!

I'm thinking just get them from Toyota. Never checked if they are still available.

I can't get the parts. however keep in mind that if you change the headset you will change the ratios for all the gears as well

Do you have a transmission you can send me and parts? Then yes

@@GearBoxVideo hi, I sent the support an email regarding doing the 265/6 video but it seems you answer faster here 😉. I have an ebay box in L.A just waiting for you. Cheers.

Check your spam. Anyway right now I am not doing any rebuilds

@@GearBoxVideo the gear box is going to be in the USA for the next 25 days,when do you think you will have time to do this video ? I don't mind waiting 3 months, I have almost all the bearings and rings.

When was the last time you changed your oil?

@@GearBoxVideo, Transmission gear lube? I had it checked several months ago, during full oil/lube service. They told me it was "good". The last change was not in recent memory. According to the troubleshooting section of the Haynes manual, first thing to do is check gear lube level. I plan to drain it, then re-fill with new, to be sure.

You should change your oil not just check it

@@GearBoxVideo Thank you. Fully drained (about 1 qt) and refilled (2.3 qt). the bearing noise ended (surprise)... I found that, even though I replaced the rear seal on the transmission a year ago, it is leaking. I need to get under and check for drive shaft bushing wear (inside the tail/extension housing). If worn, I hope it can be changed in-vehicle (without pulling the entire transmission).

You might want to change the oil. Other than that you may need a new ring

I honestly do not know anything about that transmission. However, since manual transmissions do not have filters the best maintenance you can do is change the oil every 10 thousand miles as well as check your oil level.

Same as before. Nothing changes

No the pin is there for a reason

Any chance you have one in your spares? Happy to replace it if I could find a p.n. or ID number for that little pin. Mine’s damaged so no longer fits in the fork. Not sure if it was spring loaded or fixed in position. Would send a pm but not sure how in RU-vid. Cheers@@GearBoxVideo

I don't. The spring is a detent spring for the reverse bias so there is a spring in there and a pin that when you go into reverse it pushes the pin and gives you an extra lock out for reverse

countershaft bearing

Usually if you are standing still it's the pilot bushing. Not a countershaft bearing. There are 3 bearings for the counter shaft and those will not squeal when going bad. They will make a rumbling growling noise. If the noise only happens when the pedal is down it's a release bearing

@@GearBoxVideo I appreciate all the knowledge you share. My noise was like a belt whine combined with a dirty wheel bearing only when it was moving in gear, but not fourth when the input just mates to the output which led to me the countershaft. I found out every bearing in it was bad though

I really don't know. Depends on the casting and if the mainshaft has a provision. If the electric sensor is gear driven, probably yes. If it has a magnetic reluctor probably not .

By remote shifter do you mean what's commonly referred to as a "tripod" shifter? YES. However, I believe you will possinly need an early model tail housing, and all related shifter parts. I haven't tried to just swap the inner socket out for the earlier model but from my own transmission (late model tripod) and watching this video, it may be possible to use the late model tail housing with an early model shifter as long as you have the right shifter, shifter tower, and the metal block that attaches to the shift selector rod. I hope this helped.

The gaskets have tabs on them. They are not poking out.

Ahh.