Good video on a very complex suspension setup. One thing I want to point out is that the sway bar link is not defective, it is by design for that joint attached to the bolt to move freely. To tighten the nut on the link bolt, you need to use a hex key (size 5mm) hold the bolt in place and use a wrench with open end to put the nut in. If you look at the end of that bolt, there should be a hex shape hole. All the sway bar links I have worked on are designed this way because they need to move freely. Hope that helps.
I should've posted my videos. I rebuilt EVERY PART OF MY SUSPENSION! Every bushing and arm has been replaced, along with Tein Flex Z's. It's expensive but worth it. People forget sway bar, bushings, engine mounts, subframe, and differential bushings.
Great video! I just rebuilt my entire front end with coilovers all around. I'll be getting around to the end soon and wanted to see what's in store. The front end is easiest out of the two, look forward to the challenge.
Ive found that using snap ring pliers to put the hat for the parking brake shoe retainer spring is much easier. Also, the quick way to put the top tension spring is to leverage it onto the perch while bracing a flathead screwdriver. It is so simple once you see it done once. Saves a ton of time.
Unfortunately I didn’t have a chance to make a video back when I rebuilt my front suspension, but I will probably be replacing the upper control arms and shocks in the near future and will make a video for that! Thanks for watching! )
@thelexuschap4200 awwww mann that's so disappointing 😞 I'm trying to rebuild my front now 😫 but having a difficult time finding what's important to rebuild
@@maliknolan5711 I used all aftermarket parts except the lower ball joints which I used OEM parts for. If you send me an email at theautochap04@gmail.com, I can send you the list of parts that I got as I can’t post pictures here.
Can you tell me where is the petrol filter located on the Lexus gs 300 2008 right side driver. Thanks Is it along side beneath the driver side or inside the petrol fuel tank next to the fuel pump.
Hello! I’ve had a good experience with parts from RockAuto, put around 20k miles on them with no issues at all so far. I would suggest getting OEM Toyota/Lexus parts for critical parts like the front lower ball joints. Thanks for watching! :)
@@theautochap hey that’s great, i was thinking of later on you can make video and give a little review them, for the lower ball joints i bought moogs, and moogs again for outer tire rods, i just have to put them on
@@hurrh.6335 Not sure if I’ll be doing a review video just for the suspension as it wouldn’t be enough content for a full video (if RockAuto decides to sponsor me then I might though lol). I do plan to do a driving impressions video once I get the engine and transmission back in, I’ll probably cover how the suspension feels in the video.
@@theautochap nice man i understand, do you have any plans for this car? i bought some coilovers for my gs, also got the tire rod and the lower ball joints, but idk if i should install those on my daily
@@hurrh.6335 For the GS I’m doing a restoration project if you will, started with suspension, paint and now the drive train. Pretty close to the end of the project at which I’ll hope to have a reliable and clean GS as a daily for a long time. I’m sorry I don’t think I understood your question. Were you asking if you should install the parts on your GS or another car of yours?
Hello, I have a scenario regarding the toe control link. My friend was doing an alignment on my 98 gs300 and was struggling to adjust rear toe. Before he broke the camber bolt loose both toe sides were at -0.20° and after he broke the bolt both went to -2.50° and would only go as low as -2.05° The car drove ok before the alignment but after even at speeds of 30 the rear felt like it shifted side to side and on the highway was pulling left and right. Total rear toe rose from 0.05° to -4.25° and thrust angle from 0.2° to -0.1°. I went right to an alignment shop after and they were able to "mickey mouse" a fix that conditioned my car to before the alignment. I am unsure of exactly what the fix was. The shop along with my friends instructor pointed to this component and said I would need to replace it. I just really want to make sure it is this piece before I replace it and it ends up not fixing it and my car becomes undrivble to where it can't be mickey mouse fixed again and I lose the car.
Hello! From what you have explained, I don’t think you have done any permanent damage to your car to the point where you can’t drive it anymore. The toe control link is just a ball joint which is not too hard to replace. Unless something catastrophic happened like the upper ball joint separating from the knuckle, nothing would be damaged. Having said that - the rear end is definitely out of alignment and the only way to fix this is by getting an alignment done at a professional shop. I’m unsure as to why the shop you took it to had to do a “Mickey mouse” fix - if they had an alignment machine they would have been able to adjust the angles and get a perfect alignment. The only time were alignments cannot be performed are when the chassis is bent from a wreck or something like that, but you said the car drove properly prior the the repair. Unfortunately it’s a little hard for me to advise you more without having a look at the car. So as a first step I would suggest taking your car to another reputed shop and ask them to do an alignment. If they are not able to complete the alignment, they will tell you why and what needs to be replaced/fixed. Since the rear end is not used for steering may be able to drive it to the shop without any issues, but if you don’t feel comfortable I would suggest having it towed. Remember to ask for a flat bed and not a sling type tow truck. If you have any more questions, feel free to respond here. Hope I was able to help, and good luck! :)
The camber bold or the toe bolt might have gotten twisted as it was being broken loose. You can not get perfect alignment with a twisted bolt, it will need to be replaced.
@@theautochap You definitely helped. Im on the collision side of our college and did find body filler on my rear door and my trunk when repainting my car. I measured the under carriage with a tram gauge but the opening I needed to use as a reference points were under the lift arms so I had to use other points of reference. The frame was reading straight but I'll probably try again with the proper reading points. You saying it drove properly before the alignment definitely reinforced the idea that the frame is ok. Thank you for that. Also I shouldn't have called it a mickey mouse fix, that discredits the shops years of experience and they probably just were able to revert it. Again thank you.
@@sarvinderdhesi1631 thank you, ill be looking to replace the camber bolt and toe link with some adjustable ones from megan racing. I just wanted to make sure it was a mechanical piece that can be replaced vs I replace those parts, they dont fix the issue and the car ends up being out of alignment forever. The alignment shop being able to get it back in alignment and what both of you two responding to me said I feel comfortable replacing parts now.
My rear suspension squeaks like crazy. I have newer struts (about 2 years old), new control arms, and all suspension bushings lubricated. Is it likely my struts are the source of the squeaks? Thanks.
Hello! If you suspect your struts are causing the squeaking sound, I’d suggest trying to listen for a sound isolated to when you’re going over bumps as that would put the struts in action. Another thing that people commonly overlook are the two bushings in the rear knuckle (I show these @ 3:21 in the video). If you’re still unable to isolate the noise, I’d suggest getting the car up on a lift and prying on different bushings to see if you can recreate the noise you hear while driving. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😀
Hello, I’m assuming you are asking about the bushings on LC #1, LC #2. I would recommend just replacing the entire arm as it’s easier than pressing the bushings in and also not much more expensive than buying just the bushings. If you would like to buy the bushings, I found this link which has a kit for the rear suspension: www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/18306 Unfortunately I cannot attest to the quality as I have not used their products before. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching! :)
Hi, I am going to replace my toe arm and possibly my rear upper control arm. I read your reply to the other commenter asking if it is possible to remove the UCA without removing the axle shaft and parking brake. I have a question about whether I would have to remove the shock absorber and lower control arm number 2 or just unbolt the knuckle from the UCA ball joint and leave in the shock absorber and LCA#2?
Hello, To remove the toe arm aka. toe control link, you don’t have to remove any other components, just unbolt the bolt and nut holding it in. Don’t forget to mark the toe angle plate to get a rough alignment when you put everything back together! If you would like to replace the rear upper control arm, you will have to remove both the shock absorber and the drive shaft. You shouldn’t have to remove lower control arm #2 however. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! :)
Hello, Some of the parts will fit, some may not. Unfortunately I don’t know which ones are cross compatible but the process to disassemble the suspension is similar. I would suggest checking compatibility before purchasing any parts. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help. Thank you for watching! :)
Hi, unfortunately not. Here is why - the axle shaft is directly below the upper control arm ball joint nut and there is no space to get a socket on, and then a pitman arm puller to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Even if you somehow loosened the nut using a flare nut wrench (very tough due to the lack of space mind you) I suppose you could hammer the upper control arm stud to break it loose but if the axle shaft is not removed there is very little space to swing your hammer. And second, to remove the axle shaft you have to remove the parking brake cable because there isn’t enough slack to swing the knuckle upwards so that the axle shaft slides out of the knuckle. And don’t forget about the most important part, torquing the ball joint nut to spec - even if you somehow got the UCA off with the axle shaft still in place, it would be impossible to fit a torque wrench on to the ball joint nut. It’s definitely a bit of work to get the axle shaft and parking brake cable off, but it helps you get the job done properly. Hope that helps!
@@DSLfuner can confirm, it's not necessary to remove driveshaft/axle shaft to remove UCA. and also driveshaft can be removed without disconnecting parking brake cable
