How To Rebuild the WP Fork Inner Cartridge 

Can't believe this video has so many views and so few likes. Thanks for these awesome WP fork videos!

This video is awesome

Great video !! im doing now the same to my EXC 530

Sweet instructions

thanks for the video, need it for for my poor old forks.

Well done bud, excellent tutorial.

So why remove the sleeve part of the cartridge? Last rebuild I did I had 2 small bushings left over. Doing rebuild again today I remove the sleeve, it looks like that's where the bushings go but how do they come out? Was that bit skipped in the video or don't they need to be changed ? I can't see any other reason to remove the cartridge sleeves.

14:10 you should exchange the inner bushing inside sleeve over time bushing lost teflon coat

Great video - would of been totally lost

You showed me how to take everything apart. Could you show how to take the top cap off. Please

Excellent video Just replaced the fork seals & bushes on my 2004 Exc 250 and made no difference....compression & rebound clickers make no difference so I,m guessing the fault lies with the inner damping mechanism. Have looked into it and financially not viable so a bike upgrade is on the cards I think. Okay for me though as my skill level doesn't warrant tip top forks at the moment : )

You missed a o ring in the bottom of the compression damping fitting around the adjusting screw that's held in by a small snapring ive had mine leak in this location.

I would like to tackle this but I dont understand 1 thing - why do you have to dismantle the cartridge tube? - because the rebound rod with its piston can go in from the bottom and so then you can hold the wear ring on the piston and squeeze it and push the whole assembly in from the bottom can't you? - so that eliminates some work in the whole process - or am I missing something?

2:40 my spring guide won't turn off the thread at all! Maybe I over tightened it last time?

Some one told me I could put for oil in bleeder ? On ktm 350sxf ? Thanks if u can help

So what causes the inner cartridge to want to suck up into itself? I was doing a simple fork seal change, followed one of your guys video, took the air bleed screw out to get that extra oil out, and pumped it a few times, bow it wants to stay in rather then stay out, do you know why?

14:57 My rods are bottomed flush with the top, no spring tension what so ever.

Great video but 1 bushing was missed. The damping rod slides through a bushing that was in the end cap you removed. Thanks for putting these together.

My rebound needles were bound with crud, after only a short season. My seals hadn't leaked either. I thought I cleaned things last time I worked on them. Is the dirt from my lack of detail?

Hi, we’ve come up to 7th minute, however now we’re stuck. The fork has been tightened to the max by the previous owner and the adjustment tube was really dirty (dry black sediment), also there’s a lot of sediment elesewhere in the rod... we’re pretty sure it’s clogged dry. We tried to unscrew the tap rebound, but nothing works. We’ve heated it really well (smoke coming from the rod), but it won’t budge, spins with the rod.. Any extra suggestions? It’s almost impossible to hold the tube and unscrew the tap.. Also the holding tool you’re using with the vice - can’t find one (or it would take months for it to be delivered). Any suggestins how to approach holding the rod in place without damaging it?

So does that apply to 950 adventure?

not a fan of high strength loctite...blue totally sufficient